Revolution
Watch Design: The Spirit of Integration
The integrated bracelet watch has become an icon, one that emerged from the ’70s as a response to a design-centric world. Or did it?
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Revolution
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Omega hit another home run with the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph
We knew it was coming. To paraphrase former PM Paul Keating, this is the upgrade we had to have. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph. But before we dive into (sorry, can’t help it) what makes this watch special, a quick update for those not up to date with the news from Biel. Last year, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Omega hit another home run with the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Casio G-Shock GMW B5000GD-1 Review
Casio’s G-Shock (gravitational shock) watches have earnt a reputation for being one of the most robust and durable watches available on the market today. The concept of the sturdy G-Shock goes back to 1981, where a Casio Engineer named Kikuo Ibe was in charge of designing the G-shock prototypes. Kikuo Ibe wanted a watch that would have water-resistance of 10 bar (100 meters), triple 10 resistance (10-year battery life) and to be able to survive a 10 feet fall. Kikuo Ibe put together a team of 3 individuals to test 200 different prototypes, to be able to meet all three criteria as set out by the engineer. Unfortunately, the team after vigorous testing were not able to meet these requirements. The idea for the final design of the G-shock watch came when Kikuo Ibe observed a rubber ball in motion. He discovered that in a rubber ball, its centre is unaffected when the ball is moving and doesn’t suffer any shocks when it’s bouncing. Kikuo Ibe implemented this idea and was finally able to achieve all three criteria in the first G-shock model released in 1983; The G-shock DW5000C. There have been many different designs of G-shock watches over the years with nearly all of them sharing the core principles that originated from the very first model; toughness, durability and reliability. In 2018, Casio released a set of GMW-B5000 watches which came with a solid stainless steel face and bracelet or rubber strap to suit. The GMW-B5000 models have the iconic square face desi...
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial
Longines continues its streak of solidly made and eminently affordable vintage remakes with the Heritage Classic featuring a “sector” dial. The segmented dial design revisits a style, sometimes known as a “scientific” dial, that’s currently popular, one that has been done by brands as diverse as Habring2, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Laurent Ferrier. The sector dial was fairly common in the first half of the 20th century, and unlike most other companies doing remakes, Longines actually did produce such watches back in the day. According to Longines, the Heritage Classic is modelled on a watch from 1934 that’s in the company museum. As with the original, the sector dial on the remake is two-tone, with the chapter ring for the hour markers having a concentric brushed finish, while the central portion is finely grained. The markings are all printed, while the hands are blued steel. The Heritage Classic (left) and its 1934 inspiration The modern day remake is a faithful approximation of the original, right down to the typography for the Longines logo. It’s correctly proportioned as well, with a steel case that’s larger than the original but not too large, measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 10mm high, including the domed, “box glass” sapphire crystal. And because the case is matched with an appropriately sized movement that’s 25.6mm (or 11 1/1”’) wide, the subsidiary seconds does not sit too close to the centre of the dial, as is the case with large cases an...
Hodinkee
Just Because: Talking Watches Alum Howie Kendrick Hits An Extra Inning Grand Slam To Win The NLDS For The Washington Nationals
And today we're talking long balls.
SJX Watches
Rolex Unicorns Part I – Ref. 4113 Split-Seconds Chronograph
If I had a million dollars, or maybe two, to buy a Rolex chronograph, I could perhaps buy one of the five unique “Zenith” Daytonas in platinum, a Datocompax “Jean-Claude Killy” (as Davide Munari did), a “Paul Newman” Daytona (not), or a ref. 4113 split-seconds. Of the many ways to spend that much money on a Rolex chronograph – and not any other complication – the ref. 4113 is the most unusual, interesting and horologically complex. At the same time, the ref. 4113 was also a dead-end for Rolex, because it never furthered development of the split-second chronograph and instead relied on standard chronographs for all its auto-racing activities. Produced in 1942 in a run of just 12 watches – with case numbers “051’313” to “051’324” -the ref. 4113 is the only split-seconds, or rattrapante, chronograph ever made by Rolex. Phillips will soon sell ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” – the watch pictured here – at its upcoming November watch auction. Ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” The Valjoux 55 inside The racing connection Though formal documentation as to its origins no longer exist or are unknown, the story behind the ref. 4113 is by now familiar thanks to research over the years as examples emerged at auction. In 1991, a pair of these emerged at Christie’s, at its Geneva and London salerooms respectively. The first, with case number was “051’313”, was sold in May 1991 at Christie’s in Geneva for 82,500 Swiss fr...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune
Hermès, as a brand, usually has an elegant, light and sometimes whimsical house style that makes it unique amongst luxury houses. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune unveiled at SIHH at the start of the year exemplifies the house style, although the case is thicker than ideal. Functionally, the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune is a straightforward watch – it shows the time, date and phases of the Moon in both the Southern and Northern hemispheres. But the execution of the time and date is striking and clever. Orbital moon phases The two are essentially orbital displays, as each is on a sub-dial mounted on a rotating, central carousel. The carousel take 59 days to make one complete revolution around the dial. But each sub-dial also rotates on itself as the carousel turns. As a result, each sub-dial is always the right way up regardless of its position. Both sub-dials also double up as the moon phase indicator, with position of each sub-dial indicating the age of the Moon in each hemisphere. And in a bit of whimsy, the hemispheres have been inverted, with the Southern on top and Northern below. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune with a meteorite dial The inventive display was built by Chronode, the complications specialist founded by Jean-Francois Mojon, which has a diverse body of work that includes Urban Jurgensen’s P4 movement, the MB&F; LM2, and the constant force tourbillon of IWC. The display module by Chronode. Photo – Hermes Chronode conceived and builds the ...
Deployant
Glashütte Original Sixties 2019 Edition
The Sixties line presents legendary 1960s design and embodies the art of Glashütte watchmaking, whose traditions date back to 1845. It was only in 2018 that the popular line saw the first of its striking annual editions. For its annual edition 2019, the German manufactory presents the Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date in multi-faceted orange.
Quill & Pad
Paul Gerber: Renaissance Man And Creator Of World’s Most Complicated Watch And Smallest Wooden Clock – Reprise
The era of the master visionary and maker may be dead and gone in many other industries, but to create a beautiful watch, like composing a beautiful string quartet, you need a Beethoven, a Haydn, or a Brahms not a committee of brainstormers dreaming up target groups. Paul Gerber is up there with the giants, and Marton Radkai explains why.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch”
Tudor is taking part in Only Watch for the third time, but the watchmaker has arguably created its most unique timepiece to date for the biennial charity auction. While Tudor’s earlier Only Watch were variants of existing models, first the Heritage Black Bay One and then the Black Bay Bronze One, the Black Bay Ceramic One is wholly different from all current (and past) watches, it is a piece unique. Announced just a few weeks before the similarly all-black Black Bay Chrono Dark limited edition, the Black Bay Ceramic One is essentially Tudor’s signature dive watch, but with a black ceramic case. Though Tudor does have ceramic watches in the line-up, namely the usually forgotten Fastrider Black Shield, the material has not been used for the bestselling Black Bay, until now. Though the watch is entirely unique, the look is a fairly common one – all-black, everywhere. That being said, it’s an attractive one, especially for a dive watch like this. The dial is done in different textures and shades of black for legibility. So the markings on the dial are printed in glossy black lacquer to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. And the Super-Luminova is also black, or more specifically standard Super-Luminova with pigments added for colour, which diminishes the green night-time glow substantially. While that’s not a practical look for an actual dive watch, it is a cool look for a “desk diver”. The bezel continues the shades-of-black colour schem...
Quill & Pad
3 New Competitively Priced Stainless Steel Dress Watches From Chopard, Omega, And Montblanc
Elegant steel dress watches indicating the time and possibly date also make a serious statement on the wrist as the new crop of great models in 2019 highlight. Here are three of Sabine Zwettler's personal favorites from Chopard, Omega, and Montblanc.
SJX Watches
Interview: 800 Years of Japanese Swords and the G-Shock
Acclaimed in ancient literature and collectible today, swords made by the Gassan school trace their lineage back centuries, as is only possible in Japan. The school originated some 800 years ago, dating back to the early Kamakura period, approximately the 13th century. It started at the base of Mount Gassan, the highest of a trio of sacred mountains in what is now Yamagata prefecture. Though the school became dormant sometime in the 16th century, it was revived sometime in the mid 1800s by a descendant of the Gassan family in Osaka. The revival was successful and the Gassan school made swords for several Japanese emperors in the 19th and 20th century. Six generations on, the Gassans continue their craft with Sadanobu Gassan, and his father, Sadatoshi, now based in the city of Sakurai in Nara prefecture, about six hours southwest of Tokyo. At Baselworld 2019, Casio announced its collaboration with Sadanobu Gassan to create the G-Shock MR-G “Gassan” MRG-G2000GA, which has key parts of the case and bracelet finished by Mr Gassan himself in his workshop. In essence, it links the Gassan family’s eight hundred centuries of tradition with the latest in Japanese timekeeping technology. We got in touch with Mr Gassan to discuss his work for G-Shock, and also the state of his ancient craft. The interview has been edited and condensed. The G-Shock MR-G “Gassan” MRG-G2000GA What made you want to continue in your family’s footsteps? At a young age, I witnessed my...
SJX Watches
A Guide to the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019
Having only begun yesterday and open until October 13, the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore is a watchmaking extravaganza – with free entry to the public – that’s already a box office hit on its opening weekend. Reputed to have cost some 20m Swiss francs, the vast historical and cultural showcase is the biggest Patek Philippe has staged to date, with 10 rooms spread over 1900m2, or over 20,000ft2. Pre-registrations for the event exceeded 35,000 people, with the total tally after two weeks expected to substantially surpass that; the first day alone saw some 4000 visitors pass through. The venue: Sands Theatre at Marina Bay Sands But as important as its broad appeal is the fact that the exhibition has drawn some of the world’s most important watch collectors to the city state. Outside of a factory event in Geneva, there probably hasn’t been this many custom Patek Philippe wristwatches together in one place. A custom dial ref. 5970J owned by the gentleman collector known as @horology_ancienne One of the major contemporary timepieces on show: the Star Calibre 2000 And arguably the most major watch of any sort in the exhibition: the landmark Calibre 89, the most complicated portable watch ever at the time of its creation in 1989 The six limited edition watches created especially for the event have garnered the most headlines, but the exhibition itself is worth a long visit because there’s a lot to see. It covers not just Patek Philippe, but...
SJX Watches
First Look: Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 Limited Editions (With Prices)
The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 opened today for a sneak preview of the monumental showcase of watchmaking and horology. It includes everything from watchmaker demonstrations to a look into the art of enamelling, explained by no other than master artisan Anita Porchet herself; more on those in upcoming stories (or you can also buy the hardbound catalogue with proceeds going to charity). For now, here’s a peek at the highly anticipated limited edition watches produced for the event. The outline of the Singapore 2019 collection is simple: four relatively accessible watches, two grand complications, and a variety of unique Rare Handcrafts clocks, pocket- and wristwatches. All of the limited edition watches bear “Patek Philippe Singapore 2019” on the case back, printed if the back is sapphire, and engraved if the back is solid. The first is the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 ref. 5167A-012 in steel, a variation of the standard model. It has a dial with the minute track and seconds hand in red, matched with a red strap. This is limited to 500 pieces, and priced at 22,400 Swiss francs, or 33,500 Singapore dollars. (Full details on the Aquanaut here.) It’s accompanied by the Aquanaut Luce Singapore 2019 ref. 5067A-027 in steel for ladies that has a red dial and strap, also a variation of the standard model. Only 300 will be made, with a retail of 19,900 Swiss francs, or 29,800 Singapore dollars. Also for ladies is the Calatrava Pilot Travel Ti...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service
OK, we’ll skip the whole “shaken, not stirred” routine and skip to the salient facts. Omega has just released its latest Bond-themed timepiece, the Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service – and it’s pretty awesome. Limited to just 7007 pieces (see what they did there?), the Bond watch pays homage to, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
TAG Heuer Monaco 50th Anniversary Watch Unveiled in Tokyo, We Have Photos
The fourth of five limited editions celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Heuer Monaco was unveiled in Tokyo today; Revolution.watch has photos.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Catalogue
As Patek Phillippe’s 16-day Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore counts own to its opening this weekend, the watchmaker has revealed a limited edition, hardbound catalogue detailing the exhibition that will be available only at the event. A must-have for any horological library, the commemorative book includes every timepiece that will be on display at the exhibition, which is the largest to date. The tome encompasses a diversity of clocks, pocket and wristwatches spanning four centuries, from the world’s first wristwatch made for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary to some of the most complicated watches ever created – including the landmark Caliber 89 – as well as watches currently in production. The catalogue will also include the limited edition watches, clocks and pocket watches produced especially for the Singapore Grand Exhibition. The Calibre 89 Proceeds from the sale of the catalogue will benefit the National Museum of Singapore, the nation’s oldest museum. Funds raised will go towards boosting the museum’s programmes that preserve the arts and cultural heritage of the city state. Patek Philippe is no stranger to supporting the National Museum, as the catalogue donations follow its support of the redevelopment of the museum in 2015, the year of Singapore’s 50th anniversary since independence, with the creation of a unique Dome Clock that was sold at auction to fund renovation of the museum’s trademark glass rotunda. The Farquhar Coll...
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Split Decision
The GPHG foundation describes the Men’s category for watches entered into the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève as containing indications for only hours, minutes, seconds, simple date, power reserve, and classic moon phase. Here our panelists select their favorites from the six shortlisted watches, and the reactions are quite mixed.
Hodinkee
Just Because: The Ironic Elegance Of Trench Watches
Not only did the Great War move timekeeping to the wrist – it also introduced a refined aesthetic built for battle.
Time+Tide
David Beckham’s Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best
Editor’s note: A little while back, old mate Becks did some promo videos with his watch brand of choice – Tudor. Turns out that Mr Beckham isn’t one to baby his timepieces, something we fully endorse. Kick on, Becks. Tudor shared two short videos with their premier ambassador, Mr David Beckham, that looked at two … ContinuedThe post David Beckham’s Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style
For watch aficionados, GMT may as well mean “grand, magnificent, and timeless” for it offers the convenience of indicating two time zones on one dial. While today we can see all 36 time zones from every mobile phone, that doesn’t diminish the joy of a dual time zone timepiece. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three no-nonsense GMT watches that each represent the sophistication of second time zone indications in their very own way. Enjoy their classic travel-time designs pared down to the essential!
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Travis Mahoney’s Omega Speedmaster Mark II ‘Rio 2016′
Representing your country at the Olympic Games is the dream of just about every kid who grows up doing a sport, especially Australian kids and swimming. The likes of Ian Thorpe, Grant Hackett and Michael Klim did wonders to boost the popularity of the sport in the Land Down Under, producing a fresh crop of … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Travis Mahoney’s Omega Speedmaster Mark II ‘Rio 2016′ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Laurent Ferrier’s Controlling Shareholder Takes Charge
Highly regarded for its classically finished timepieces, Laurent Ferrier has just announced a major change in its management – Francois Servanin, who owns most of the company, will be taking management control, alongside Laurent Ferrier and his son Christian. Though only being officially announced today, the news was made known to Laurent Ferrier retailers several weeks ago, with Mr Ferrier himself speaking to several to reassure them that it is a new beginning, with great things to come. An entrepreneur who made his fortune with Auverland, a maker of jeeps and armoured vehicles for the French military, Mr Servanin was an auto racer in the 1970s and 1980s, having competed at Le Mans. It was there that he met Mr Ferrier, himself a former racing driver. Mr Servanin bankrolled the founding of Laurent Ferrier, and has a majority stake in the company. Ferrier father and son – Laurent (left) and Christian The gorgeous Galet Tourbillon movement Taking over from outgoing chief executive Vanessa Monestel, Mr Servanin will be the fourth leader of the brand since it was founded in 2013. The management turnover at Laurent Ferrier has led to the brand losing some of the momentum its enjoyed in its early years, when it was a rising star of old school, Genevois watchmaking; Mr Ferrier had spent a large part of his career at Patek Philippe. Laurent Ferrier’s self-winding calibre Since its first two models – the Galet Tourbillon and Galet Micro-Rotor, both developed with the hel...
Time+Tide
The old-world charms of the Longines 1832 Moonphase
We’ve been having a bit of a lunar week with Longines this week - checking out their new Master Moonphase in the boutique and in our studio. And we thought we’d stick with the theme this Friday. Today we’re taking a closer look at the stylish, chic and generally handsome Longines 1832 Moonphase. If the Master … ContinuedThe post The old-world charms of the Longines 1832 Moonphase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold “The Hour Glass”
Having unveiled commemorative editions from the likes of Audemars Piguet, De Bethune and Urwerk for its 40 years in business, Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass continues the anniversary roll-out with the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold. The watch is a variant of the entry-level but appealing Freak X, a remarkable exercise in simplicity and the most affordable version of the Freak to date. But importantly, it manages to be the base model without being a concession, and instead is more of an optimisation, offering a great deal of exotic watchmaking – it boasts the fanciest oscillator of any watch in this price segment – for little money as such things go. While the Freak X forgoes some characteristics of its avant-garde forebear, it is both technically clever and much more refined in design, offering an enhanced practicality by way of a smaller case, a traditional crown, an automatic movement, and most crucially, a high-performance silicon balance wheel – an innovation found only in one other Freak, the pricier Freak Vision. Streamlined mechanics Limited to 30 pieces, the Freak X for The Hour Glass combines a new case material – “Carbonium Gold” – with a striking champagne dial. In contrast to most Freak models that have dark dials, this Freak X has a face in a pale gold which gives it a greater presence on the wrist, but because of its matte, brushed finish, it isn’t loud and manages to be easily wearable. The only downside of t...
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase
Longines’ Master Collection excels at entry-level complications that are affordably priced – last year’s annual calendar is a great buy – and the latest in the range is a moon phase and date. The Master Collection Moonphase is a watch that’s clear in what it wants to to. Aside from the time, it has a pointer date and moon indicators in a sub-dial at six, for a clean and symmetrical dial. The Master Collection Moonphase ref. L2.919.4.78.3 It’s powered by the L899 movement, an automatic based on the ETA A31.L91, which is an upgraded version of the common ETA 2892. The most obvious functional upgrade is the extended 64-hour power reserve, achieved in part by reducing the beat rate of the balance wheel from 4Hz to 3.5Hz. Like many other models in the Master Collection, the new moon phase is offered in two cases sizes – 40mm and 42mm – both in stainless steel. Dial options are silvered barleycorn guilloche, black barleycorn, or sun-ray brushed metallic blue. The smaller, 40mm case is also offered with brilliant-cut diamond hour markers on all dial styles. The Master Collection Moonphase 42mm The ref. L2.909.4.97.0 with diamond markers Key facts Diameter: 40mm or 42mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 30m Movement: L899 Functions: Hours, minutes, second, moon phase and date Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200bph, or 3.5Hz Power reserve: 64 hours Strap: Leather strap or steel bracelet Price: US$2,350 for all versions, US$2,750 for the 40...
Time+Tide
Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph
Editor’s note: It’s 2019 and bronze is here to stay. And I’ve got to say that, as far as trends go, this is one I can very much get behind. And while the combination of bronze case, heritage style and gradient dial is more common today than in the past, the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback … ContinuedThe post Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Due Trio in Titanium
A downsized, slimmer sports watch that’s the most civilian of Panerai’s military-inspired watches, the Luminor Due is now available in three sizes with a brushed titanium case (the PAM 926, PAM 927, and PAM 964). All have a date function, and the largest 45mm model has a second time zone and power reserve. Prior to this launch, the Luminor Due was only available as a time-only in two case sizes (42mm and 45mm), so the newly launched trio substantially increases the offerings in the lightweight metal. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM 927 in titanium But perhaps more significant is the newly developed calibre inside the new models. The P.900 is a large movement at 12 1/2 lignes, or about 28mm, in diameter, but slim. In fact, it’s the thinnest movement produced by Panerai, measuring just 4.2mm high. It’s automatic and has a three-day power reserve. Not much else has been revealed about the movement yet, but it is likely to be the brand’s new entry-level calibre. The smallest of the trio is the Luminor Due 38mm PAM00926 that’s powered by the automatic P.900 movement. It’s the first time the smallest Luminor Due case is being offered in titanium. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM00927 is one step upwards in size, but otherwise identical, with the same movement and specs. And the top of the line watch is the Luminor Due GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM000964. This is equipped with the P.4002 automatic movement that has a second time zone, power reserve and zero-reset hack seconds....
Time+Tide
The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel
It’s probably a bit generous to call me a ‘collector’, but as I continue on this journey, I’m discovering that I genuinely enjoy meaningful attempts by companies to do something different. In today’s expanded universe of microbrands and industry stalwarts, it can take a lot to stand out, but it takes even more to stand … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six travel watches for the jet setter
We did a travel watch recommendation piece way back in 2015. Here is an update with our latest recommendations for the jet setter.