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Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro on Titanium SJX Watches
De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro Jun 3, 2021

De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro on Titanium

Resembling an alien seashell, the Dream Watch 5 is De Bethune’s most unusual case and unquestionably its most artistic creation. While the model started out as a pared-back affair entirely in polished titanium, the DW5 has since evolved into a canvas for decoration like over-the-top, dancing-skeleton engraving. The DW5 Empreinte sits in between the two aesthetic extremes. Clad in deep, dark colours, the case is inlaid with a subtle, organic pattern that’s hard to describe. The distinctive colours and pattern were conceived by Clara Martin, who won the 2019 prize in the annual contest sponsored by De Bethune that’s open to masters students at the University of Art and Design Lausanne, better known by its French acronym ECAL. Ms Martin’s vision was realised by De Bethune cofounder Denis Flageollet, a talented watchmaker and self-taught metallurgist, as well as Michèle Rothen, the brand’s go-to engraver. Denis Flageollet and Clara Martin Initial thoughts De Bethune’s avant-garde in both style and watchmaking – an attractive combination that leaves the watchmaker with few peers. But even so, the DW5 still manages to stand out from the brand’s other offerings, as it is arguably a sculpture first and a timepiece second. The fluid, organic case is three-dimensional and gorgeous – and even more incredible when executed in the right material and colours, as demonstrated by the meteorite version of 2016. The DW5 Empreinte gets it right, with a deep black case a...

Up Close: Piaget Polo Skeleton SJX Watches
Piaget Polo Skeleton Launched earlier Jun 2, 2021

Up Close: Piaget Polo Skeleton

Launched earlier this year as the latest addition to Piaget’s compact Polo S line up, the Piaget Polo Skeleton joins a crowded field of luxury-sports watches. But it is a novel enough proposition – being a skeletonised, automatic sports watch – to make it notable. And it helps that the Polo Skeleton is exceptionally slim, thin enough that it feels similar to Piaget’s Altiplano dress watches on the wrist. Initial thoughts Piaget loaned me a Polo Skeleton in blue for a couple of days, and two features stood out: its slimness and how well it wore (save for the clasp buttons, more on that below). The Polo Skeleton is wide but flat, and sits elegantly on the wrist. Even though the bracelet is relatively thick compared to the case, that is only apparently when the watch is off the wrist. On the wrist the bracelet pairs well with the case, despite not being an integrated design. Having a skeletonised movement with coloured bridges give the Polo Skeleton a distinct look. This contrasts with the standard time-only Polo S, especially with its linear-pattern dial, that does admittedly bring to mind other luxury-sports watches. At the same time, the finishing and style of the cal. 1200S in the Polo Skeleton bring depth and texture to the face, while also injecting a bit of movement with the rotor and balance wheel. The Polo Skeleton is offered in two guises – blue or grey treatment for the movement – and the blue is the more striking by far. It is also more legible due to ...

Parmigiani Introduces the Tondagraph GT “Panda” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin where he designed Jun 1, 2021

Parmigiani Introduces the Tondagraph GT “Panda”

Parmigiani got on integrated-bracelet sports watch bandwagon last year with the launch of the Tonda GT, in both chronograph and three-hand formats. Like many of its luxury-sports watch peers, the Tonda GT was penned with the help of a (somewhat) famous designer, Dino Modolo, an industry veteran whose best known work comes from his time at Vacheron Constantin, where he designed the original Overseas. While the Tonda GT is arguably Parmigiani’s first bona fide sports watch, it is surprisingly good – stay tuned for a review soon – and now Parmigiani has unveiled a pair of Tondagraph GT chronographs with “panda” dials. Decorated with clou triangulaire guilloche, the silvered dials are matched with glossy black ceramic registers, elevating the retro “panda” to a new level. Somewhat confusingly, the Tondagraph GT will be available in steel with a modular movement featuring an annual calendar, or in 18k gold equipped with a pure-play, integrated chronograph movement that’s both high-frequency and finely constructed. Initial thoughts The Tonda GT has an appealing, original look that most crucially avoids looking derivative, an easy pitfall in the integrated-bracelet sports watch segment. And despite being one of the many such sports watches, the Tonda GT stands out with its own style that is inspired by Parmigiani’s dress watches, resulting in a look that’s best described as curious but attractive. The Tondagraph’s case and bracelet are neither angular nor ...

The G-Shock you need to be of drinking age to buy… Time+Tide
May 30, 2021

The G-Shock you need to be of drinking age to buy…

G-Shock is an industry leader in super fun and super accessible collaboration pieces. They love marrying their  trustworthy designs with popular culture and, if you love beer and horology, their latest limited-edition watch is just for you. The only catch to the G-Shock x Budweiser Limited Edition is that you have to be of drinking … ContinuedThe post The G-Shock you need to be of drinking age to buy… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Crime or sublime: Tinie Tempah picks up his customised Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak As we’ve May 29, 2021

Crime or sublime: Tinie Tempah picks up his customised Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

As we’ve touched upon when reporting on Cardi B and J Balvin, “buss-down” watches are a huge trend outside of the niche collecting community. Trained collectors stay away from the practice, recognising that a factory original watch is considered a more pure aesthetic and that customising a watch can (at times) be a bad choice … ContinuedThe post Crime or sublime: Tinie Tempah picks up his customised Audemars Piguet Royal Oak appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: The Strategic Genius of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s CHF681 million May 27, 2021

Editorial: The Strategic Genius of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor just debuted the Black Bay Ceramic, an appealing watch that is compelling value. I like it, but it is a well-executed dive watch in black ceramic – not majorly significant in the grander scheme of things. But actually it is significant – shrewd and strategic in its concept, and a neat illustration of Tudor’s clever and patent strategy. Why? The answer lies in the industry landscape. Tudor’s parent is Rolex, the biggest luxury-watch brand in the world. According to Morgan Stanley estimates published in March 2021, Rolex sold almost CHF8 billion of watches at retail value in 2020. The equivalent number at Omega was a little under CHF3 billion, making it the second-largest luxury-watch brand. In the same report, Morgan Stanley pegged the retail-value sales for Tudor at CHF633 million, the result of having enjoyed double-digit growth for several years. Though it’s a modest number relative to Rolex and Omega, it is substantial. The figure puts Tudor a hair below Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CHF681 million, and bigger than Panerai’s CHF520 million. Tudor’s solid growth is attributable to many factors, most of which are encapsulated in the Black Bay Ceramic. Most obvious are the historically-inspired and thoughtful design, and of course the strong value proposition it represents. But more than that it is a masterstroke. Specifically, the METAS certification that makes the Black Bay Ceramic a Master Chronometer is a brilliant move. To be clear, Tudor officially has no...

Seiko Reinterprets the “62MAS” and “Turtle” (Again) SJX Watches
Seiko Reinterprets May 27, 2021

Seiko Reinterprets the “62MAS” and “Turtle” (Again)

Twenty-twenty marked 55 years since Seiko’s first foray into dive watches, which was the ref. 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Naturally, it introduced myriad vintage remakes to mark the occasion – not only of the “62MAS” but also other dive watches of the era like the ref. 6105 “Turtle”. A year on, Seiko continues with a pair of remakes: the 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS” (ref. SPB239) and the 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation “Turtle” (ref. SPB237), both powered by the mid-range 6R35 movement, making them affordable. The “6105” remake with a textured grey dial Initial thoughts There have been numerous remakes of Seiko dive watches, including several limited editions – but all are practical, affordable watches, so more isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The result is a variety of iterated case and dial combinations with something for almost everyone. The new models are as good looking as their immediate predecessors, since they are essentially alike save for minor tweaks, namely the woven-fabric strap and dial colour. The “62MAS” remake with a brown “sunburst” dial Each model is delivered with a pair of NATO-style fabric straps that add a bit of vintage charm to the look, especially compared to the rubber straps usually found on dive watches. Although the fabric straps are merely, well, fabric straps, they are special. The straps are braided with the technique known as seichu, traditionally used to weave obijime, the co...

VIDEO: The Longines Silver Arrow offers ’50s elegance with an architectural twist Time+Tide
Longines Silver Arrow offers ’50s May 26, 2021

VIDEO: The Longines Silver Arrow offers ’50s elegance with an architectural twist

The new Longines Silver Arrow makes me think we’re due for a strong comeback of the functional steel dress watch. Clean-cut with a proportionate, 38.5mm case that invokes a ’50s Mad Men vibe, it feels fresh in our niche horological world, saturated as it is with vintage divers and sports-watch largesse. The Silver Arrow achieves … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Silver Arrow offers ’50s elegance with an architectural twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk Debuts the Tantalum Swansong for the UR-105 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 26, 2021

Urwerk Debuts the Tantalum Swansong for the UR-105

Launched in 2014 as a successor to the foundational UR-103, the UR-105 was a more elaborate version of Urwerk’s satellite-disc, wandering-hours watch. After a seven-year run – it’s been replaced by the entry-level UR-100 – the UR-105 series will now be retired. Urwerk is giving the model a grand send-off with the UR-105 TTH, which has the front plate and lid of its case made of tantalum, the bluish-grey metal that Urwerk has only used in one other instance with the UR-110 TTH. Based the UR-105 CT Streamliner with its characteristic hinged lid, the UR-105 TTH is all about its case material. A dense metal with a distinctive colour that’s used for surgical implants, turbine blades, and even artillery shells, tantalum is difficult to machine and finish due to its hardness. Consequently, while tantalum has been used for watch cases since the 1990s, but it is uncommon. Urwerk is one of a handful of brands, alongside Omega and F.P. Journe, to use the metal for a watch case. Initial thoughts All good things must come to an end, and Urwerk is closing the chapter with aplomb. With the distinctive hue of tantalum, the case fits the sci-fi industrial spirit of the brand well. Striking and futuristic, the UR-105 is sleek in tantalum. The metal will make it substantially heavier than the standard steel version of the UR-105, which would make it less easily wearable. Priced at CHF77,000, or about US$86,000, the UR-105 TTH is 20% more expensive the base-model UR-105 CT i...

In-Depth: Recreating the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred Years Later SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred May 25, 2021

In-Depth: Recreating the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred Years Later

As one of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive timepieces marks its 100th anniversary, the watchmaker rolled out a handful of jubilee models during Watches & Wonders 2021 for the occasion, most notably the extremely good looking American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine. But Vacheron Constantin had something else up its sleeve for the 1921’s century – something really special – a near-exact recreation of the vintage original from 1921. Christened the American 1921 Pièce Unique, the watch is a one-off created as a joint project by the brand’s Restoration Workshop and Heritage Department, overseen by Style & Heritage Director Christian Selmoni, whose long tenure at Vacheron Constantin means he is practically the brand’s institutional memory. The watch is more than just a visual replica – an identical case and movement is a given – but even the most minor of details have been reproduced faithfully, right down to the gold alloy of the case and period-correct vintage parts from its archives. Initial thoughts While the modern-day American 1921 is a fan-favourite, it necessarily omits some of the finer details of the vintage original, in order to cater to current tastes as well as production methods. As such, even the most-delicious Collection Excellence Platine edition can be critiqued, for the mismatch in hand colours or the seemingly misaligned seconds register. In contrast, the recreation is satisfyingly spot on, which give it an attractive, bona fi...

HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGE251 May 22, 2021

HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251

With their penchant for larger diameters clearly visible in the Grand Seiko SBGE251, I feel the need to underline a simple fact with Seiko and Grand Seiko. While there is a lot to be said for the goldilocks 38-40mm case size, I still haven’t figured out how Seiko manages to make my last big diver’s … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: The Interesting and Perhaps Overlooked at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet minute repeater that’s not May 20, 2021

Highlights: The Interesting and Perhaps Overlooked at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

With the Geneva watch auctions recently concluded, the action moves to Hong Kong where Phillips is presenting a large, 312-lot catalogue over two days and three sessions. Headlined by a pair of Patek Philippe ref. 2499s with certificates – first and third series specifically – the Phillips sale encompasses several lots that will delight collectors looking for intriguing timepieces that usually go under the radar – most of which are also value buys. They include a seemingly ordinary Panerai with a brilliant Minerva movement, a round Audemars Piguet minute repeater that’s not a Code 11.59, and the electric Cartier Tank Folle that is as left-field as they come. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place on June 5 (lots 801-852) and June 6 over two sessions (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue, along with registration for the auction, is available online. Lot 874 – Panerai Radiomir PAM 322 “Minerva” With little to distinguish it, the PAM 322 looks like any other Radiomir at a glance. Released in 2008 in a limited edition of 150 pieces, the PAM 322 is quintessential Panerai in style: a 47 mm titanium case, tobacco dial, and gilt hands. But turn it over and it is instantly recognisable as special. The PAM 322 is powered by the cal. OPXXVII, which is actually based on the Minerva cal. 16-15/16-17, one of the calibres destined for Montblanc’s top-of-the-line watches, then known as the Villeret 1858 collection (and now found in various 1858 and Heritage mode...

A Look Inside Rolex World Service and the Restoration Atelier SJX Watches
Rolex World Service May 18, 2021

A Look Inside Rolex World Service and the Restoration Atelier

Synonymous with durability and consistency, Rolex is most famous for the water-resistant Oyster watch case. But as important are its movements engineered to optimise timekeeping and functionality, exemplified by innovations like Chronergy and LIGA chronograph wheels. At the same time, Rolex watches are built for longevity, with the brand guaranteeing the availability of parts and labour for every model for at least 35 years after its discontinuation. Crucial in ensuring that the parts and labour are applied correctly is Rolex World Service, the brand’s after-sales division. The typically secretive Swiss watchmaking giant recently peeled back the covers on Rolex World Service, allowing a peek into its processes with information and a series of photos. Rolex World Service Rolex World Service encompasses the brand’s global after-sales service network, which is primarily made up of Rolex subsidiaries but occasionally run by third-party distributors in certain markets. All service centres are meant to offer a uniformly standard of service, regardless of ownership. A variety of servicing options are on offer at Rolex – all relatively affordable – with the most common being the full service detailed below. As the name implies, a full service is comprehensive, including polishing and replacements of parts. It is catered for the average consumer who wants a watch looking fresh and new, rather than the enthusiast or collector who prefers originality. A full service start...

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying May 17, 2021

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph

Launched just last year, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is the flagship model in Audemars Piguet’s oft-discussed line of run watches. Executed well in almost every way, the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph underscores the potential of the family. But more importantly, the watch encapsulates AP’s strengths. Despite being known largely for the Royal Oak, and widely criticised for the Code 11.59 and then the Royal Oak Concept Black Panther, AP remains AP. The brand is a long-established, top-tier watchmaker that knows how to make fine watches. That is amply evident in the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Code 11.59 was widely panned online at launch, though the virtual mob’s rage was overdone, taking the weakness of specific models and generalising it across the entire line. The dials on the three-hander and chronograph were bland, but the other models were more appealing. But the Code is in fact an impressive collection in terms of finish and construction – though some dials still can be improved – especially the octagon-within-a-circle case that’s difficult to appreciate in photos. But the Code 11.59 has gained traction since, especially with the subsequent facelifts that combined smoked, lacquered dials and two-tone cases that immediately made the watch more attractive. At the same time, highly complicated models have joined the line up, including the open-worked tourbillon and Grande Sonnerie, which add to...

Bulgari Drops the Glow-in-the-Dark Aluminium Collab with DJ Steve Aoki SJX Watches
Bulgari Drops May 13, 2021

Bulgari Drops the Glow-in-the-Dark Aluminium Collab with DJ Steve Aoki

Bulgari has teamed up with Steve Aoki to create the Aluminum Steve Aoki, a funky version of its aluminium-and-rubber watch. Launched in 1998 and then revived last year, the Aluminum is an entry-level, lightweight sports watch that’s been given a subtle but fun twist with the “O” from the American DJ’s signature incorporated into the dial. Born in California – his father founded the popular Japanese restaurant chain Benihana – Steve Aoki is one of the world’s most successful DJs, having collaborated with various musicians from Maluma to BTS. A fixture in the “Top 100” rankings by industry publication DJ Magazine, Mr Aoki also has his own streetwear line, making this collaboration with the Roman jeweller a natural evolution. Initial thoughts A hit upon its revival last year, the Aluminium is cheerful and affordable, while having an easily recognisable Bulgari design. Its design is strong enough that I find it to be one of the most fascinating watches in its price segment, despite the generic movement. The only downside of the Aluminium is the softness of the metal, which means the watch case will show wear more quickly than a steel watch. And careless wear will result in a case that looks very worn. The Aluminum gets better with Steve Aoki collaboration. The DJ’s emblem on the dial is modern, bold, and a perfect match for the spirit of watch. But it’s also discreet – hardly visible during the day at arm’s length – preserving the classic design....

What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches… Time+Tide
May 8, 2021

What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches…

“Batshit crazy”, it turns out, is a phrase that means different things to different people. To me in a watch context, it means technical craziness. Lots of complications. Unnecessary but deeply impressive flexing of watchmaker muscle. To Wei it’s a state of mind. What watch would you be batshit crazy to wear on the mean … ContinuedThe post What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We’ve teamed up with Fratello, Monochrome and Revolution to bring you the least official Watches & Wonders wrap possible Time+Tide
May 5, 2021

We’ve teamed up with Fratello, Monochrome and Revolution to bring you the least official Watches & Wonders wrap possible

Entertainment is an imperfect art, Zoom is no place to do a Watch Fair debrief, and the integrity of official awards in the watch industry is as eyebrow raising as ever.  So in the spirit of breaking apart as many of the above rules and issues as possible we bring you something that hopefully falls … ContinuedThe post We’ve teamed up with Fratello, Monochrome and Revolution to bring you the least official Watches & Wonders wrap possible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches on integrated bracelets have a secret downside. Does Vacheron Constantin have the cure? Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin have May 2, 2021

Watches on integrated bracelets have a secret downside. Does Vacheron Constantin have the cure?

Grail watches come in all shapes and sizes, from that vintage Seiko chronograph to a German masterpiece from the town of Glashutte. But when it comes to current hype, one category trumps them all: the integrated bracelet sports watch. For me, the elusive Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is still one of my ultimate dream watches, … ContinuedThe post Watches on integrated bracelets have a secret downside. Does Vacheron Constantin have the cure? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.