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Time+Tide
A voluptuous titanium case, unique mirrored caseback and architectural in-house movement make this ArtyA an intriguing prospect.The post ArtyA go back to the future with the very 90s yet very futuristic Purity Wavy HMS Mirror appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
If you love independent music venues, the Midwest, and out-there designs, this watch is made specifically for you.
Teddy Baldassarre
At this point it’s a cliché to even mention how outdated and prehistoric a universally negative or condescending view of “Made in China” is in the world of watchmaking. Some of the most interesting new watch brands, and a consistently growing roster of some of the most talented and resourceful living watchmakers, are establishing reputations matching, or indeed exceeding, those out of Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. In this article I have assembled just 15 of these names, some of which have been around for decades and some of which are just coming on the scene. For your reading ease, I’ve broken these down into three categories: the established brands; the watchmakers; and the upstarts. Let’s start with the Chinese watch brand most of you already know… The Established Brands Seagull Tianjin Seagull Watch Group, aka Seagull, recently celebrated its 70th anniversary, and it’s not hard to see why this giant is the most well known and prolific Chinese mechanical-watch producer. The brand made China’s first Air Force Chronograph, which has been reissued as the iconic Seagull 1963 chronograph, a watch that still represents tremendous value at around $300. But it’s not just all affordable stuff these days. Last year, I wrote about the Seagull Split-Second Chronograph, calling it one of the best values in watchmaking at $3,200. Beyond the basic chronograph and this rattrapante, Seagull has added tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters to its repe...
Deployant
Bart Grönefeld talks to us all about their latest releases fo2 2025 - the Grøne Manueel One and the Gronefeld 1944 Tanfana.
Monochrome
Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection has fast become the brand’s bestseller, thanks to its convincing retro design, decent outsourced automatic movements, and competitive prices. The Millesime Chronograph was added to the collection last year and stands out with its attractive reverse panda dial references. The latest 39mm chronographs, available in steel with a grey dial and […]
Time+Tide
Buffy opines on the intricacies of men and jewellery through the years.The post Why you’re wrong about watches being the only male jewellery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Longines has produced a massive variety of designs over its illustrious history. Today, we’re looking at a vintage watch from the brand that reflects the bold designs of the 1970s. One of the standout features of this year’s Watches and Wonders was the fact that many companies sought to offer bold, stand-out designs. Yes, there […] Visit Value In Vintage: A Longines Admiral Watch From The 1970s to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
In Ken Gargett's opinion, the Penfolds Grange La Chapelle 2021 is a wine that is focused and concentrated, and offering immense length with the silkiest of tannins. All a bit thrilling. A force of nature that will drink beautifully for decades. 98.
Monochrome
Back in 2021, Swedish brand Tusenö released the original Shellback diver that was a classic and more modern take on its prior Blackwater diver, one that had proved itself in the hands of the Swedish Sea Rescue Society (a voluntary search and rescue organisation). The original Shellback introduced a contemporary sandwich dial and updated logo […]
Monochrome
Historical Swiss watch brand Corum is back to Swiss ownership following a management buy-out led by Sales Director Haso Mehmedovic, backed by a group of Swiss investors – which remains undisclosed for now but is presented as members of the luxury and finance sectors. Haso Mehmedovic, who will serve as the brand’s new CEO, began […]
Fratello
In true Watches and Wonders tradition, Patek Philippe graced us with a string of new introductions. The Genevan brand unveiled 14 new wrist watches and a unique desk clock this year. Among them, there are always standouts. The big release for this year was not a highly complicated timepiece or a new addition to the […] Visit Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G to read the full article.
SJX Watches
After voyages through the cultures of Europe, China, and Japan, Louis Vuitton sets course beyond the terrestrial realm. The Tambour Taiko Galactique is a minute repeater with automata depicting an astronaut on the Moon. With its newest creation, Louis Vuitton once again marries artisanal decoration with high-end mechanics – all accomplished in-house at its manufacture in Geneva, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts For several years now, Louis Vuitton has endeavoured to preserve and perpetuate traditional watchmaking and related crafts. From the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives to its collaborations with independent watchmakers, and the massive, nine-figure investment in its Geneva manufactures and the vertical integration of metiers d’art, Louis Vuitton is a large luxury brand, the world’s biggest in fact, but still remains in touch with artisanal horology. The latest launch from the French marque is a minute repeater that defies traditional dogma. With the Galactique, Louis Vuitton pays tribute to both the space age and classic watchmaking by dressing an otherwise traditional complication in a space-themed attire. It is literally a “Moonwatch”, but of another type. The lunar-centric watch is appealing, a little whimsical, and well-executed, with consistent design choices unifying the case and dial. The only decidedly classic element is the movement that is visible through the case back. An artful dial The centrepiece of the Gala...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...
Worn & Wound
The countdown is on. The 2025 Windup Watch Fair is just days away, and if you’re anywhere near San Francisco, this is your official wake-up call: you don’t want to miss this. From May 2nd through May 4th, the Windup Watch Fair will transform Pier 2, the Gateway Pavillion at Fort Mason, into a haven for watch lovers, gear junkies, collectors, and curious newcomers alike. With nearly 90 different watch and EDC brands on display-including some of the most exciting names in independent watchmaking. It’s the perfect place to get hands-on with timepieces you’ve only seen on screens-and maybe even walk away with your next favorite watch. Here are the details: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 2: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 4: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public We’re also thrilled to welcome our incredible lead sponsors: anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Frederique Constant, and Oris, each bringing something special to the table. Whether you’re after design innovation, heritage craftsmanship, or a bold new statement piece, these brands are sure to deliver. But that’s just the beginning. Experience the EDC Expo Presented by NOMATIC This year, we’re continuing to turn up the volume with our EDC Expo presented by NOMATIC. Whether you’re into sleek multitools, ultra-functional bags, or purpose-built accessories, this section is dedicated to the best in everyday carry gear. This year, insid...
Worn & Wound
Nomos is always a safe bet when someone who isn’t very into watches but is perhaps interested in dabbling is looking for a recommendation. That is not to say that those of us who are very into watches don’t appreciate them either. A darling of watch enthusiasts, the Glashütte manufacture manages to package watch nerdery into easy-to-digest, colorful, modern morsels. But, and I say this only as an adoring fan (my first manufacture watch was a Nomos I still own), in the last few years, their novelties have felt mostly iterative, focusing on colors and sizes (and don’t get me started on calling a manual watch watch the Minimatik – what does -matik mean if not automatic?!). Thankfully, they broke this trend with the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer (Club Worldtimer from here out), which was easily a favorite from this year’s Watches & Wonders. Typically, with a hands-on article, I would start with the watch’s case or dial, but the thing that stood out most to me about the Club Worldtimer was the quality of the click. Up, at 2 p.m. on the case, is a single pump-pusher that is used to jump the hour hand one hour forward and progress the city ring accordingly. I don’t know how many pushers I’ve pushed since I’ve gotten into watches, which, mind you, was when I was a child, but this was one of, if not the best, feeling pushers I’ve encountered. It has a perfect, crisp action that is reflected in a snappy and satisfying jump of the hour hand. To ...
Hodinkee
Retro design, super cool story – it's one of G-Shock's biggest (literally and figuratively) releases in recent memory.
Time+Tide
We look at the watches that blend driving inspiration and time-telling best.The post 9 of the best driving watches to accompany you on your next canyon dash appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Omega became the official watch of the world’s most famous cinematic superspy, James Bond, in 1995, with star Pierce Brosnan sporting a Seamaster Professional watch in the first of his four films as Agent 007. Today - 30 years, nine movies, and two lead actors later - the Omega Seamaster retains its strong association with Bond’s signature style along with his penchant for exotic adventure. Here is a chronological rundown, movie by movie, of every Omega Seamaster model that James Bond has worn in his silver screen exploits during the last three decades. Goldeneye, 1995 (Pierce Brosnan): Seamaster Professional 300M Ref. 2541.80 When Irish actor Pierce Brosnan came aboard for Goldeneye, the first new Bond film in six years, Oscar-winning costume designer Lindy Hemming came with him. It was Hemming, according to Omega, who suggested that an Omega Seamaster would be the perfect watch for Bond, despite the character’s established affinity for Rolex, which came from Ian Fleming’s original novels. “I was convinced that Commander Bond, a naval man, a diver, and a discreet gentleman of the world, would wear this watch,” Hemming said in an interview. At the time, the watch she chose was one with a quartz movement, the Seamaster Professional 300M Ref. 2451.80. In the movie, the 300-meter water resistant diver with blue dial is equipped with a built-in laser beam in the bezel, which Bond uses for a desperate escape from an exploding train car, and a remote detonator...
Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen goes back almost a century to 1926 and was known for many watches, including its early automatics in 1930 and Antarctic model in the 1950s that was used during a South Pole expedition with the US Navy. The original F77 from 1977 had an octagonal bezel and integrated design that was trending thanks […]
Quill & Pad
Like many connected to the watch industry, Ian Skellern has wondered at just how much of an impact the US tariffs are likely to have on the watch industry. And todate he has found no clearer explanation of what's likely to happen than by Teddy Baldassarre, who is both a US watch retailer and prominent watch reviewer and journalist.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After getting into watches seriously, the Orient Mako was the diver that served as the gateway drug into this hobby. I know it was either that or a Seiko SKX for most of us but because of this, the Orient Mako will always have a special place in the collection. I still have it, it was my wedding watch, and that beautiful blue dial still gets me from time to time. Recently, the brand announced a set of anniversary models for their 75th anniversary and the dials just shot out in a way that was too appealing to not mention here on TBWS. Let's take a look at these new Orient Mako references RA-AA0823L and RA-AC0Q12L.
SJX Watches
Hermès recently revisited a whimsical complication first introduced some 14 years ago, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. Still retaining the quirky “suspended time” complication, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu gains a multi-layer, open-worked dial that reveals the interesting mechanics behind the mechanism. And it’s been scaled down slightly to 42 mm thanks to a movement upgrade. Initial thoughts I liked the original Le Temps Suspendu, both in terms of form and function. The complication isn’t practical, but it is unique and appropriate for the elegant, whimsical house style of Hermès. The original was a large watch, and the modestly downsized new version is an improvement. The thinner case is possible thanks to a Vaucher base movement, which is a step up over the ETA 2892 in the original. More notably, the open-worked dial adds substantially to the visual appeal. Besides giving the dial more depth, it reveals the surprisingly complex mechanism devised by Agenhor for Hermès. Though the complication is simple on its face, the mechanics required to pull it off are significant, and now they are on show. And most surprising of all, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu costs less than the original from 2011, with the rose gold variants priced a little under US$40,000. This is despite the upgraded base movement and more elaborate dial. It runs counter to prevailing practice in high-end watchmaking, and reflects the generally reasonably pricing of Hermès watches. Suspendin...
Hodinkee
So much good stuff, and all of it vetted.
Fratello
Montblanc began making watches in 1997, but in reality, the brand’s watchmaking history runs a lot deeper. In 2007, the noted penmaker purchased Minerva, a revered Swiss manufacture founded in 1857. Since then, complicated pieces have carried the famous name on the movement and, at times, on the dial. Today’s 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar Limited Edition to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
I love when Seiko gets niche, quirky, or just straight-up weird. There was the Egg-Boiling watch for, well, boiling eggs. And then there was even a “Vampire-Exclusive” watch for those who choose to live that lifestyle. But the Seiko Metronome from 2022 is special because it really has a practical purpose and is a little extra nifty because it was made by Seiko Instruments, which is the brand’s division responsible for electric components, printers, and - you guessed it - metronomes. There were several versions of the watch produced in different colors but the Seiko Metronome SMW006A seen here is definitely one of the cleaner and better-looking models. A basic primer for those unfamiliar with this instrument: a metronome is a device that creates a steady beat (either audibly or visually) measured by BPM (Beats Per Minute) to help musicians stay on rhythm. Design: Before getting into the functionality and novelty of the Seiko Metronome, I want to talk about how well designed it is. It would be easy to relegate this watch into the "technical instrument" bucket that so often leads to the “function over form” thinking that results in such obscure and, for lack of a better word, “nerdy” designs that can be really quite off-putting. The Seiko Metronome, and more specifically the reference SMW006A, avoids falling into that trap by leaning into a minimalist, almost-Bauhaus design that belies the data-heavy display of its functionality. The matte white dial is arra...
Worn & Wound
We have officially reached that point in the integrated bracelet sports watch trend where the late entrants are getting their second generation, “improved” models to market. Case in point, Nivada-Grenchen and their F77. The F77 launched in March of 2023, a time period that most would agree saw the hype around this genre of watch begin to cool in a significant way. That doesn’t take anything away from the F77 as a watch, of course. I’m rather fond of the size and geometry of this one, and it’s a genuine part of Nivada’s heritage. But in terms of its timing, it did debut at “peak” integrated bracelet sports watch mania. And so here we are, two years later, and Nivada has launched a Mark II version of the F77. We’re now at a point, I think, where integrated bracelet sports watches are just part of the landscape, and a required offering for any brand wishing to cast even a somewhat wide net. It makes sense, then, that Nivada would work to improve theirs. From the looks of it, they’ve made some fairly substantial changes to the case that could have a real impact on how the F77 wears, and it certainly has an impact on the overall aesthetic of the watch. The case measures 12.2mm thick, which is not appreciably different from the previous version, but the lugs have been completely redesigned. The first F77 had lugs that were quite flat and, for an integrated bracelet sports watch, fairly long. The new F77 Mark II has lugs that are much more dramatically curve...
Time+Tide
Slender, small and elegant, Lange's smallest 1815 is somewhat of a challenge to the expectations of the brand.The post A. Lange & Söhne’s smallest-yet 1815 is a masterclass in restraint appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
It seems that the integrated sports watch trend shows no signs of slowing down, and for the most part, we’re not complaining about that. It’s always good to see brands adapt and evolve, and to offer diversity and originality in a sense. Of course, following trends can be risky and time-sensitive, but in today’s industry, […]
Worn & Wound
If you’ve read any of my work, you’ll know I’ve always had a fascination for 1980s and 90s watch design. It’s a period often overlooked within the collecting community, and through my writing and research, I hope to bring some much-needed attention to it. A few months ago, I wrote an article about the Timex Skiathlom that seemed to interest many of our readers. Another fun piece Timex produced during this same era was the Triprix. Though not as flashy as the Skiathlom, several notable aspects of its design set it apart from your typical digital watch. It’s fun, it’s mighty functional, and it’s as close to owning a Seiko Giugiaro for under $100 as you can get––what’s there not to love? The Triprix’s History and Design According to information gathered through various forums, advertisements, and websites, the Triprix was released in the late 1980s and continued production throughout the early 1990s. The model came out during a period where Timex set their eyes on producing timepieces aimed at sporting and leisure activities like skiing, surfing, fishing, sailing, and running. The central idea was for these timepieces to feature an array of functions that would assist the owner in their leisurely endeavors. According to a 1990 catalog, all variants of the Triprix sold for $40, the equivalent of roughly $100 by today’s standards. Moving to its design overall, the most noticeable aspect is its slanted digital display. Reminiscent of Seiko’s A828 Digi...
Teddy Baldassarre
The pilot watch genre is a funny thing. These watches are marketed and sold for their connection to history and/or their usefulness within the field of aviation. This history has set a visual identity that defines the genre to this day, with complications like flyback timers and slide rules often featuring heavily. Of course, very few of the owners put these features to use, with fewer still serving as actual pilots. Thus, the pilot watch genre really serves as more of a vibe than any kind of practical watermark. There are exceptions to this, however, and ironically enough, some of the most practical everyday tool watches find themselves with the “pilot watch” designation, and there is perhaps no better example of this than the IWC Mark XX. The name of the game with any great tool watch is clarity. Ideally, there’s nothing superfluous to cloud the core goals of the tool, with a premium placed on simple legibility. One of the strongest templates based on this ethos is the IWC Mark XI from the late ‘40s. It wasn’t the first IWC Mk watch, but it is the one responsible for casting a die that persists to this day in the form of the Mk XX. There are important distinctions, which I’ll get to, but the underpinnings of the modern Mk XX collection are built on the same general formula that made the Mk XI great: it’s easy to use, easy to understand, easy to wear, and is exactly as stout as it needs to be. IWC enjoys a highly developed design language for its range of pi...
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