Quill & Pad
The Omega Spirate System: A New Idea in Balance Spring Technology
The Omega Spirate is a new type of balance spring. It isn’t just a flashy concept piece, it is a practical advancement capable of improving horology.
Results for Vallée de Joux
25,200 articles · 175 videos found · page 507 of 846
Quill & Pad
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition for Collective Horology
Since its inception in 2018, Collective Horology, a “proudly headquartered in Ventura, California” club for watch enthusiasts, has become quite famous through the Collective Series, which involves collaborations and limited editions with watch brands like IWC, H. Moser & Cie., Armin Strom, Czapek and Oris, to name a few and the Portfolio Series, which commissions […]
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, Materials and Mechanisms
Perhaps the most recognisable travel watch in history, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master was launched in 1955, just as the world was entering the Jet Age of intercontinental travel. The inaugural GMT-Master model was the ref. 6542 that sported a distinctive bezel colour-coded in red and blue to distinguish day- and night-time. The coloured bezel would go on to become a defining feature of the GMT-Master and iconic within the wider genre of travel watches. Originally made of fragile Plexiglas, the bezel evolved into a robust anodised aluminium insert in 1959, the same year the GMT-Master became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am, then the world’s biggest airline. Rolex advertising from the 1950s celebrating the first non-stop transatlantic flight by Pan Am where both pilots wore the GMT-Master The GMT-Master earned iconic status with its functionality and technical excellence, but equal credit goes to the notable personalities individuals wearing a GMT-Master who witnessed, or even made, history. Astronaut Edgar Mitchell wore one on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Several United States Air Force pilots set speed records while wearing a GMT-Master, including William J. Knight in 1967. And Val Kilmer sported one while playing Iceman in Top Gun. US Air Force pilot William J. Knight set an all-time speed record of 7,272 km/h (Mach 6.7) on October 3, 1967 in an X-15 rocket plane, while wearing a GMT-Mast...
Monochrome
Video - A Closer Look at the Edgy Zenith Defy Revival A3648, Rekindling that 1969 ‘Everything is Possible’ Spirit
The year 1969 proved to be pivotal for Zenith. The manufacture introduced the El Primero automatic chronograph, which would become one of the most influential movements ever made. Besides that monumental feat, it also launched the formidable Defy collection that year. This sporty series of watches had an unprecedented design, with an octagonal case topped […]
Time+Tide
Sundowner sales go live in 3 hours, here’s a recap of the live London launch
Thank you to everyone who attended, now is your last chance to sign up for VIP, early access to buy the 'Sundowner' before it goes on sale.The post Sundowner sales go live in 3 hours, here’s a recap of the live London launch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Maen and IFL Collaborate on a Graffiti Inspired Manhattan Limited Edition
Maen’s Manhattan has proven to be a watch that works particularly well as a blank canvas of sorts. We’ve seen a number of limited editions of Maen’s integrated bracelet sports watch (including our own) and each finds new ways to present the piece’s central idea of a 70s inspired, elegant sports watch. Maen seems to enjoy riffing on the name of the watch – their collaborations with seconde/seconde/ are both visual puns of sorts that play on our reactions to the word “Manhattan,” and their latest takes that approach to another level entirely. Now, working custom dial specialists IFL Watches, they’ve developed a tribute to New York City culture that it feels like the brand has been building to since the collection was introduced. IFL Watches, for those unfamiliar, specializes in custom, handpainted watches, taking familiar references and personalizing them to varying degrees. They make a variety of limited editions and one-offs, and also offer bespoke services, and include popular enthusiast focused pieces from brands like Citizen, Seiko, Tissot, and more. There’s an enormous variety in the style of IFL’s handpainted work, with some designs being incredibly intricate, and others more minimal. Some are completely abstract. For their crack at the Manhattan, we see IFL working in a style inspired by the city itself: graffiti. Graffiti, of course, is not unique to New York, but nevertheless feels like an appropriate medium for the Manhattan. The dial featu...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Millennium Watch Book Travel Watch Edition
Following the previous 4 editions – The Millennium Watch Book, Tourbillon Watches, Divers Watches and Chronographs – GMT Publishing now releases a fifth opus in their The Millenium book series. This 2024 edition is dedicated to travel watches (displaying additional time zones), a highly practical and purposeful function for globetrotters, frequent travellers and those doing […]
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Adds a 37mm C1 Moonphase
It’s getting close to the end of the year, and many of us are naturally in a reflective mood. I’d like to think I speak for most watch writers when I say that for us, it’s all about looking back at the almost incalculable number of watches we saw over the course of the year, and the reviews they spawned. Considering all the watches I got to look at this year, there are a handful that really stand out, and the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase is easily one of them. We talk about Christopher Ward a lot around here because they continue to surprise us, expanding the very definition of what a “Christopher Ward” can be, and the C1 Moonphase is one of my favorite examples of that. It’s truly an art piece – made of slabs of aventurine with no markers to speak of and accented with giant, glowing moons in constant rotation. In a quiet way, it’s every bit as adventurous as the Bel Canto or Twelve X. If there was one issue with it, though, it was the size. At just over 40mm, it was perhaps a little big for some who expect a watch like this to be more discreet. If that describes you, you’re in luck, as Christopher Ward has just announced a new version of the C1 Moonphase in a more versatile 37mm size. If you envision a watch like this as an accent to a suit (maybe even a tuxedo) or you simply have smaller wrists or prefer a more traditional dress watch size, this new version should have a ton of appeal. Personally, I stand by my original review, where I wrote that a...
Fratello
The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex
Over the past year, I’ve enjoyed smaller, simpler watches from the ’40s and ’50s. This change in my collecting course has been fun and relatively inexpensive. Does that mean I’ve given up on later vintage and more modern pieces? Absolutely not, but as you’ll see with the majority of today’s pre-owned and vintage favorites, the […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex to read the full article.
Time+Tide
7 of the best stealth wealth watches that exude old money
If you've not fully caught onto the stealth wealth trend, our buying guide should clarify everything.The post 7 of the best stealth wealth watches that exude old money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Voutilainen Gives the KV20i Reversed a Cherry Facelift
Although the Voutilainen style is rooted in tradition, sometimes it encompasses less-than-conservative watches, like the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry, a colourful variant of the brand’s signature inverted-movement model. Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected contemporary independent watchmakers - and for good reason. He has struck a perfect balance between the artisanal aspects of horology with enough business acumen to guarantee him absolute creative liberty and longevity. Despite his success, Mr Voutilainen didn’t scale up his namesake brand, instead choosing to continue making small-run timepieces. While the KV20i Reversed Cherry is not a limited edition, only a handful will be made, as is typical of the brand. Initial thoughts The Vingt-8 Reversed is a staple of the Voutilainen collection, having started five years ago with the 28TI – short for “Titanium Inverse”. An evolution of the Inverse, the KV20i Reversed is remarkably similar, although much has changed in terms of details. Voutilainen wristwatches are characterised by two key traits: impeccable movements and hand-made guilloche dials sporting deep and rich patterns. The Reversed puts the former in the front, taking the place of the dial, while guilloche is concealed on the back. While a guilloché front dial will surely be missed, the visible mechanics more than compensate. The latest incarnation of Voutilainen’s in-house cal. 28 reverses the construction, which required a number ...
SJX Watches
Chronicles of Precision: The Quest for Equation of Time Part I
Central to our comprehension of time is the intricate interplay between the celestial dance of heavenly bodies and the pursuit of accuracy. Throughout history, mankind’s perception and quantification of time has evolved with its interaction with the natural environment. From ancient times when the rhythm of the Sun governed daily existence to the modern day of standardised timekeeping ushered in by mechanical innovations, human ingenuity has been instrumental in shaping this odyssey. Unfolding within this tale is the rare horological complication, the equation of time, a captivating chapter in the ongoing saga of humanity’s temporal exploration. The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 with its kidney-shaped cam that governs the equation of time display. Image – Breguet Dawn of Timekeeping: Celestial Observations and Ancient Innovations The genesis of civilisation ushered in humanity’s bond with the cosmos, as early communities devotedly charted the celestial events that dictated the rhythm of their lives. This connection was not merely academic; the alternation of day and night, the moon’s phases, and the Sun’s shifting journey through the heavens were the foundation upon which the ancients built their methods of marking time. In civilisations like those of Mesopotamia, Egypt, and ancient China, a deep-seated knowledge of the heavens was crucial for survival. The predictable cycles of day and night governed the timing of essential activities such ...
Deployant
GPHG 2024: Commentary on six of the winners
The GPHG has just ended. And the jury and Academy has spoken. But from our POV, who should have won? Here our picks, and a comparison to the 6 who won.
Time+Tide
Under-represented and under-appreciated: Deloitte & Watch Femme’s report shines a light on women and the watch industry
Is it time to reconsider how we are representing gender across the watch world? The post Under-represented and under-appreciated: Deloitte & Watch Femme’s report shines a light on women and the watch industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Bremont Supermarine 300m GMT Collection
Combining a dive watch with a traveller’s function has become a classic over the years, offering immense versatility. At Bremont, this concept was personified for many years by the Supermarine S302 GMT Diver, but since the brand is currently restructuring its strategy and collection, many expected to see a new model occupying this specific niche. […]
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Future of Mystery Ranch, a Trio of New Polerouters, and Doxa’s New Cufflinks
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The Return of the Universal Geneve Polerouter Things are stirring at Universal Geneve. Just a few weeks ago in this very column, we brought you news of the reformed brand’s exhaustive new website, which features a ton of info on UG’s history, and seems purpose built to be a home for the new collections when they arrive sometime in the next year or so, give or take. This week, another new development: the introduction of three apparent one-off versions of the classic Polerouter. As reported in Revolution and elsewhere, the release marks the 70th anniversary of the first SAS polar flight (for which the collection is named) and features a trio of meticulously recreated Polerouters. Unfortunately, these are not meant for the public at large – a stainless steel version with gilt accents and a gorgeous red gold edition with a black dial are both going straight to the UG archives. A white gold version with a blue dial and matching white gold bracelet is set to be auctioned next year at Phillips, with proceeds going toward Geneva’s CFP Arts school, which focuses on teaching students ...
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - A Pair of Exquisite and Iconic Jaguars Making Automotive Headlines
Jaguar is one of the great British car manufacturers, perhaps only rivalled by Aston Martin when it comes to style, class, and heritage. It started out as the Swallow Sidecar Company in 1922, making motorcycle sidecars before moving into the production of cars in the mid-1930s, with the first-ever car being the SS Jaguar 2.5L […]
Time+Tide
Has Dennison risen from the dead?
Going from making 200,000 cases a year to relaunching with a hot new dress watch, Dennison is on the up and up.The post Has Dennison risen from the dead? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Mark Alamares Picks A JDM Seiko Trio
Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Mark Alamares picks a theme and sticks with it. His collection consists of three sporty Seikos, but these are all JDM models that differ just slightly (well, sometimes more than slightly) from their counterparts available in the United States, and elsewhere. Collecting JDM Seiko is a rabbit hole within a rabbit hole, and Mark makes a compelling case for why diving into these slightly tougher to obtain Seikos is worth the additional effort. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The theme of my $5,000 trio is Neo-Vintage (late 1990’s to early 2000’s) JDM Titanium Seiko’s that cover the gambit of Air, Land, and Sea (prior service U.S. Marine, 2001-2011). While this theme may not be for everyone, there’s a certain level of difficulty in acquiring clean examples of these watches that I must say is extremely gratifying. Much more so than just crunching the numbers and hitting your targets on the new market. You’ll have to do some research, make some connections, and enjoy a lot of insightful back-and-forth while on the hunt for a trio like this. Think niche JDM watch dealers on Instagram. So, as great as the destination is, the journey is equally as satisfying. Yes, pricing may vary depending on many external factors but in reality, I’ve never had $5,000 burning-a-hole-in-my-pocket to the point where I had to get...
Worn & Wound
Black Friday Deals Live Now In The Windup Watch Shop
Black Friday Deals Live Now The More You Spend, the More You Save It’s that time - we’re kicking off our Black Friday Sale in the Windup Watch Shop with exciting deals and promotions to help you kick the holiday season into gear, including discounts on some products that never go on sale. As an added incentive, we’ve brought back our tiered discount system - the more you spend, the more you’ll save! As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Black Friday Deals Live Now The More You Spend, the More You Save It’s that time - we’re kicking off our Black Friday Sale in the Windup Watch Shop with exciting deals and promotions to help you kick the holiday season into gear, including discounts on some products that never go on sale. As an added incentive, we’ve brought back our tiered discount system - the more you spend, the more you’ll save! As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Black Friday Deals Live Now In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Brellum Introduces a Smaller Version of their Duobox Chronograph
Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, founded Brellum in 2017. Unlike many new brands, they did not pursue crowdfunding but adopted a more traditional approach. The first model released by Brellum was the Duobox, which was covered by Worn & Wound here. Since then, we have reported on several other releases by the brand. However, despite this coverage and similar attention from other outlets, Brellum does not appear to have the same visibility or market presence as many competitors. That is the impression I have, at least. Since 2017, they have quietly expanded into multiple product lines, exhibiting strong and distinctive brand coherence. They have successfully established their brand identity in such a way that their models are instantly recognizable as Brellum watches. In an industry as prolific, diverse, and prone to imitation as ours, achieving a high level of brand consistency is more challenging than one might expect, particularly if your designs are conservative. However, their watches do possess some flair, and all feature high-grade chronometer-certified movements. For 2024, Brellum is introducing a smaller version of their most popular model, the Duobox, along with a new chronograph movement in their collection. Introducing the Duobox 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. This watch is essentially a 39mm version featuring subdials at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. Many consider this arrangement more aesthetically pleasing than the standard ETA/VJ7750 dial layo...
Monochrome
First Look - The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Speedster Limited Edition
This isn’t the first Belisar Chronograph Speedster from Union Glashütte, as models like the Limited Edition Electric Blue and Limited Edition Yellow were inspired by vintage German sports cars and rallies as well. The latest model by Union Glashütte features an asphalt grey dial with a red stripe, mimicking the colours of a specific Porsche […]
Deployant
New video for TGIFriday: Fit Check for Episode 1 of The Deployant Show
We debuted our revamped YouTube Channel with The Deployant Show recently. Many have asked what we were wearing on the day we filmed the video. Here it goes.
Teddy Baldassarre
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Seiko Watches Of All Time
One of the most iconic and beloved watch brands in history, Seiko is ubiquitous among newcomers, seasoned watch collectors, and everyone in between. Choosing one watch from a brand which has a catalog with such breadth and depth is not an easy task but the team here at Teddy was asked to do just that. Unsurprisingly, the answers ranged from contemporary dress watches to niche limited editions paying tribute to Sci-Fi classics. So, without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite Seiko watches. Let us know what you think and share your own in the comments. Mark Bernardo: Seiko Prospex SBDY025 "Save the Ocean" Edition How does one choose a “favorite” Seiko? As someone who writes about watches for an audience that appreciates all different kinds of watches, I’ve always found superlatives like “favorite” and “best” to be daunting. At the watch-industry trade shows I’ve attended over the years, I have often been posed with the question of what were my favorite new releases. My responses, invariably, have tracked not necessarily with my personal tastes but with the watches that made for the most interesting stories for my watch-savvy readers. And when it comes to Seiko, its history is chock full of interesting stories — the first Japanese-made chronograph watch in 1964 and first Japanese divers’ watch in 1965; the original Seiko Astron, the first quartz watch, in 1969, and its successor, the Astron GPS model, in 2012, to name just a handful. There has...
Monochrome
News - Universal Genève Teases its 2026 Return, with Three 70th Anniversary Polerouter SAS Tribute Watches
The Polerouter is, without a doubt, one of the most emblematic watches ever created by Universal Genève. Not only was it designed by young Gérald Genta, but it was powered by an important micro-rotor movement and was a purpose-built watch created by request of SAS, asking Universal Genève to create a watch that could support […]
Monochrome
First Look - The More Compact Brellum Duobox 39mm Chronometer Limited Edition
Brellum was founded in 2016 by Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker who set up shop in Porrentruy, Switzerland. With a limited production of around 299 watches a year and an emphasis on chronometer-certified movements, Brellum’s policy of direct sales to avoid middlemen allows the brand to keep its prices in check. One of this independent […]
Quill & Pad
Here’s Why The Crown is the Unsung Hero of Watchmaking and Why Rolex Wears the Crown
The crown is one of the most important yet underappreciated parts of a watch. The humble crown has played an extensive role in helping Rolex – and the rest of the watch industry – get to where it is today. Here's why.
Time+Tide
Introducing the Time+Tide x TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph ‘Sundowner’
The Aquaracer Solargraph 'Sundowner' is our tribute to Australian sunsets.The post Introducing the Time+Tide x TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph ‘Sundowner’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Time+Tide and TAG Heuer Introduce the New Aquaracer Solargraph “Sundowner” Limited Edition
Our friends at Time+Tide have launched their latest collaborative limited edition, a new version of one of our favorite TAG Heuer references, the Aquaracer Solargraph. The Solargraph builds on decades of Aquaracer heritage by incorporating state of the art solar technology that makes it something akin to the ultimate grand and go sports watch. The new LE from Time+Tide trades on the media outlet’s Australian roots to great effect – the end result is a watch straddles the line between the high end and a pure tool, offering something just a little big extra for Time+Tide readers. The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph x Time+Tide “Sundowner,” as it’s known, features a number of design cues inspired by the Australian outback. The reputation of the outback is as a wilderness environment that’s both beautiful and treacherous, so a sandblasted titanium case makes a ton of thematic sense and offers a level of robustness that you’d want if you found yourself in one of Australia’s most remote regions. The barren, desert-like aesthetic is also evoked by the khaki strap and the rose gold dial accents, which provide the Sundowner with a sense of utility and refinement. I’ve never been to the outback, personally, but the watch has a warmth to it that is both uncommon in quartz powered sports watches and feels very much tied to the landscape it’s inspired by. The Solargraph is ostensibly a dive watch, and features a unidirectional rotating bezel in a tone matching that...
Monochrome
News - Seagull Drastically Limits Supply of the ST-19 Chronograph, but not for Studio Underd0g
While widely known as a China-made movement, the Seagull ST-19 chronograph has always been well-accepted by the watch community. It looks good, it has a tried-and-tested architecture (well, of course, being a copy of an old Venus 175), it has a classic combo of column-wheel and horizontal clutch and, mostly, it made it possible to […]