Hodinkee
Business News: Rolex Gains Drive Secondary Watch Market Price Declines To Slowest Since 2022
Morgan Stanley and WatchCharts data shows Rolex, Patek, AP, Omega and Cartier outperforming on secondary market
Results for DLC and PVD Coating
29,600 articles · 1,983 videos found · page 509 of 1053
Hodinkee
Fratello
Hands-On With The Cartier Tank À Guichets: A Tank In A Casemate
So, a tank is pretty tough, right? How do you make it even tougher? Park it in a casemate! Stick the cannon through one of the tiny embrasures, and you have a fearsome defensive installation. Well, that’s what Cartier did. The mighty Cartier Tank was parked in a bunker, and the result is called the […] Visit Hands-On With The Cartier Tank À Guichets: A Tank In A Casemate to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Obituary: René Beyer, Owner of the World’s Oldest Watch Store
René Beyer, the eighth-generation owner of Beyer Chronometrie in Zurich, died suddenly on April 13, 2025, at the age of 61. Beyer was a towering figure in Swiss watchmaking circles, known not only for helming his family’s 260-year-old business, but also for his passionate stewardship of its famed clock and watch museum, his warm ties with independent watchmakers, and his family’s close relationship with Patek Philippe. He is survived by his wife. Beyer’s passing was first reported by Zurich newspaper Inside Paradeplatz. Born in 1963 into the Beyer dynasty that began in Germany in 1760, Beyer grew up surrounded by clocks and watches. Like his father, Theodor “Teddy” René Beyer, he qualified as a watchmaker himself, learning the business from the ground up. Beyer’s role in the family business started in 1986 when his father suffered a heart attack and was forced to step back. A decade later, Beyer had formally taken over as managing director and proprietor of Beyer Chronometrie, becoming the eighth generation to run the venerable retailer, which first opened in Zurich in 1822. Unlike many of its peers that expanded nationally and internationally, the business remained a local operation in Zurich. Like many watch retailers of the old-school, Beyer was synonymous with his store. The store on Bahnhofstrasse, the main shopping street of Zurich A retailer and curator During his nearly three decades at the helm, Beyer carried on his father’s legacy and bol...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s New Ceramic is the Same Hue as the Royal Oak 5402
“Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” was the colour code for the original Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST of 1972, and now Audemars Piguet has translated the dark blue shade into its latest ceramic. Making its debut in three Royal Oak models, including the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic is restrained and a departure from the bright, almost electric blue of the brand’s earlier blue ceramic. Initial thoughts Ceramic is a material that lends itself well to the Royal Oak design; the brushed and polished surfaces that are the trademark Royal Oak surface finishing look good with the hardness and glossiness of ceramic. The earlier bright blue ceramic used by AP was too bright in my opinion. The new dark blue hue, on the other hand, feels just nice. The downside of an all-ceramic Royal Oak is the price. The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph with a matching ceramic bracelet costs almost US$90,000, double the price of the steel equivalent and almost as much as the gold model. According to AP, the cost is primarily due to the difficult in finishing the ceramic – every element of the case and bracelet is brushed or polished by hand – which is true, but it’s still expensive. The most affordable model with the new ceramic only has its bezel and pushers in ceramic ” Night blue” According to AP, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (which translates as “night blue, cloud 50”) was the code for the dark blue, almost grey, in the catalogue of Stern...
Hodinkee
The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 collection
Introducing the 2024 TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 collection: now featuring a new chronometer movement, refined case ergonomics, and a redesigned wave-pattern dial.
Hodinkee
Seiko’s Classic Series is a masterclass in Japanese aesthetics
With textured dials, delicate colors and curved surfaces, the newest Presage models embody the timelessness of Japanese design
Hodinkee
The Alchemy of Style & Substance
The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Gets A Bold Makeover With Three New Black Ceramic Models And A Selection Of Seductive Green Dials
Hodinkee
Seiko - Improving on a Classic
The newest Seiko 1965 Heritage Diver’s watch blends the legendary style of the original with a host of performance, aesthetic and ergonomic upgrades.
Hodinkee
My Leica: Mo Ali
Meet HODINKEE's Director of Product & Strategy, and his Leica MP.
Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver
A deep dive into the mind of two unique creatives and how time shapes their process.
Hodinkee
Celebrating Orient Star
Japanese craftsmanship and style combine to create a unique experience for Orient Star's 70th Anniversary.
Hodinkee
Movado Teams Up With ‘80s Wild Child Kenny Scharf
Fans of the iconic “Blobzmos” and “Kozlingos” can now wear them on their wrists
Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Most Complicated Wristwatch, Ever
If you were to sit me down at a desk and ask me to write down 41 watch complications off the top of my head, I think the result would be rather like Ross Geller trying to name the 50 states in that one episode of Friends. There’s just no way I could do it. Forty-one is an absurd number of complications to even conceive of, let alone cram into one surprisingly wearable watch. And yet, that is what Vacheron Constantin’s one-of-a-kind watchmaking department, Les Cabinotiers, has managed to do. Just about a year after introducing the world’s most complicated watch of any kind - a pocket watch containing 63 complications - Vacheron has unveiled the Les Cabinotiers ‘Solaria Ultra Grand Complication.’ It’s hard to know where to start with a watch like this, especially since I haven’t had the opportunity to see it in person, so to begin, I’ll just say this: I am wildly impressed by this watch, and you should be too. It’s a serious step up from their previous most complicated wristwatch - the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, which housed 23 complications. It’s worth saying here that, even before getting to the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin had a very good Watches & Wonders. The brand is celebrating its 270th anniversary this year and they’ve done a hell of a job with it. Their new 127-piece limited edition Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, with its novel movement and ann...
Worn & Wound
Notes From a Very Busy Day at Watches & Wonders
Wednesday April 2, 2025 5:30 AM: 9Hotel Paquis I’m awake for day two of Watches & Wonders an hour before my (first) alarm, which was probably an hour earlier than it needed to be anyway. Am I refreshed? I am not. My internal clock is still on east coast time, which means if I were back home I’d be settling in on the couch getting ready to stream some movie that I’ve seen a million times and am comfortable falling asleep to. Maybe Prometheus, a favorite among members of the watch media for reasons I can’t quite articulate. 8:30 AM: the shuttle to Palexpo We are at a new hotel this year deeper into the red light district which is the second or third stop on the shuttle line. By the time the shuttle gets to us, it’s quite crowded, standing room only. A shorter trip though, which is welcome. I always find myself wondering who these people on the shuttle are. The answer, almost certainly, is that they are retailers. Retailers are everywhere – they outnumber media by a significant percentage. Watches & Wonders is an important business event for retailers, hence the suits. European retailers are almost always wearing Cartier. American retailers are almost always wearing those sneakers that look like dress shoes. A note on shuttle etiquette: when you board a crowded shuttle, move as deep into the center as possible. Don’t stand by the door – it makes it more difficult for people to board at the next stop. 9:30 AM: Palexpo I’m at a table in a section of ...
Time+Tide
Celebrating complication with 12 of the most complicated watches of all time
Horological mastery and lifelong obsessions made these creations come to life.The post Celebrating complication with 12 of the most complicated watches of all time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko King Turtle: Does This Budget-Friendly Diver Reign Supreme?
Japan’s Seiko has never been shy about going bold and unconventional with its designs, especially when it comes to its divers’ watches, a genre in which the brand has been an undisputed industry pioneer since the 1960s. One of its most off-the-wall and yet most enduringly popular designs is the so-called Turtle, which made its debut in the 1970s and has undergone a successful renaissance here in the 21st Century as part of Seiko’s rugged and sport-centric Prospex line. At the pinnacle of the Turtle sub-family, in terms of luxurious finishing and dominant wrist presence, is the grandly named King Turtle, best represented by the Refs. SRPE03 and SRPE05 released in 2019. Here’s what you should know about them. By the time this watch’s ancestors made their debut, Seiko had already produced some highly unusual, unexpectedly iconic, and cleverly nicknamed dive watches, like the Ref. 6159 “Tuna” (for its chunky tuna-can-like case shape) and the Ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” (thanks to its being famously worn by Martin Sheen’s character in Apocalypse Now.) The “Turtle” nickname first surfaced in 1976, applied to the References 6306 and 6309 - the former, made for the Japanese market, and the latter, for international customers. These watches were notable for their cushion-shaped cases with softly rounded lugs, which brought to mind the silhouette of a turtle when viewed from above. The Turtle gained a modicum of pop-culture visibility when actor Ed Harri...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models
It’s a common refrain here at Worn & Wound: every year is an anniversary. Like death, taxes, and Photoshop renders of what collectors predict the new Rolex will look like, the celebration of anniversaries in the watch industry is a certainty. We’re not complaining. An anniversary of an important watch or collection is a great time to take stock, and there have certainly been plenty of desirable releases over the years centered around big anniversaries. This year, Bell & Ross is celebrating 20 years of the BR-03 collection, their iconic square watch that has become the “face” of the brand over the past two decades. The celebration begins with the new BR-03 Skeleton, a collection of three watches that capitalizes on a big trend across all sectors of watchmaking while removing the BR-03 from its aviation themed roots, at least a little bit. Bell & Ross has been making skeletonized watches for years (often as part of their Skull series), and these watches highlight their proficiency in that area, and also take advantage of their creativity with lume. The new BR-03 Skeleton is available in three variants: Black Ceramic, Grey Steel, and Lum Ceramic. All three feature 41mm cases and a new movement, the BR-CAL.328, designed specifically for these watches. While the specs of the caliber are in line with previous time only movements used in recent BR-03 releases (like those, it has a 54 hour power reserve) its architecture has been adjusted, highlighting an “X” motif...
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Hazemann & Monnin – Two Young Watchmakers, Two Aesthetics, One Model, One Brand
The 2023 F. P. Journe Young Talent Competition winners, watchmakers Alexandre Hazemann and Victor Monnin, have launched their first watches with a creative new approach.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Yema Skin Diver CMM.20
Yema continues to refine its catalogue by raising the bar on quality and craftsmanship, unveiling fresh iterations of one of its most iconic models. Still drawing inspiration from the original 1960s diver series, the French watchmaker introduces new versions of the Superman Skin Diver, now equipped with its proprietary CMM.20 micro-rotor calibre, in a move […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Easter-Ready H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up
Cosmic Green, Funky Blue, Swiss Mad Red, Citrus Green… Indie brand H. Moser & Cie. is no stranger to bold, expressive colour. These vibrant hues have graced the dials of the Pioneer Centre Seconds series alongside Arctic Blue and Blue Lagoon. Now, Moser adds an Easter-related hue, or rather sun-related, for the new dial colour […]
Monochrome
Industry News – LVMH Reports Minor Loss of Revenues in Q1 2025 Despite Uncertain Environment
The world’s leading luxury group, LVMH, has just announced its sales revenues for the first quarter of 2025, which ended March 31st. At the end of the year 2024, when the conglomerate was still reporting strong results, revenues showed a slight improvement, offsetting the losses of mid-2024. However, the global geopolitical and economic environment is uncertain due […]
Monochrome
Introducing – Light, Summery Colours for the Orient Star Layered Skeleton
Founded in 1951, only one year after the creation of the Orient Watch Company and owned since 2001 by Seiko Epson, Orient Star is the higher-end collection of the Japanese watchmaker, which celebrates this year its 75th anniversary. This year, the brand expands its contemporary collection with two new colours for the Layered Skeleton model, […]
Fratello
Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL
Welcome to another installment of Exploring Evergreens, a series here on Fratello in which we get our hands on watches that have been around for over a decade - or long enough to feel ubiquitous - and ask ourselves if they’ve managed to stand the test of time. We’ll address whether they’re still relevant, how […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Event: Fireside Chat with Philippe Dufour in Singapore, April 18, 2025 (CLOSED)
With Phillips’ Geneva auction in May selling several watches to benefit the Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour Foundation, Philippe Dufour himself will be in Singapore during the preview exhibition for the sale. On April 18, 2025, the noted independent watchmaker will be the guest at a fireside chat alongside Thomas Perazzi, Phillips’ head of watches for Asia, moderated by myself. *Registrations are closed as venue is at max capacity. Thank you for the interest.* Mr Dufour will be speaking about his life and work, as well as the foundation’s mission and the upcoming charity auction where several watches will be sold to benefit the foundation. The highlight of the sale is the unique Philippe Dufour Simplicity with a 37 mm pink gold case with a dial inlaid with butterfly wings (pictured above). Registration and preview Seats are limited due to venue capacity and registration is required to attend the panel. Please RSVP on Phillips.com. *Registrations are closed as venue is at max capacity. Thank you for the interest.* The preview exhibition for the Phillips’ spring auction season, including lots from the Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York sales, takes place on April 18 and 19, 2025, 11 am-6 pm daily, at the Singapore Edition hotel.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel
One of the most beautiful, albeit not particularly novel, debuts at Watches & Wonders recently was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a two-tone grand feu enamel dial in brown and cream. It’s merely a new variant of a longstanding model, but it is striking. Prior versions were in platinum with a black and then blue enamel dial; this is the first model in rose gold and perhaps the first-ever modern-day Patek Philippe with a multi-part, two-tone enamel dial. Design aside, the ref. 5370R retains the same specs and movement as its predecessors. Initial thoughts I usually don’t like brown dials, and the ref. 5370R is merely a cosmetic tweak. The movement remains the same CHR 29-535 PS that is good looking and contains some clever technical features, but its decoration could be a little more artisanal for the price. Overall, the ref. 5370R isn’t fundamentally new. And despite being in rose gold, it’s even more expensive than its predecessors in platinum, with a retail price crossing US$300,000. Being a Patek Philippe, the ref. 5370R is expensive, in the same manner that Ferrari and Hermes can charge more than the competition. But despite so much going against it, the ref. 5370R is one of the few watches that has remained in my memory in the weeks after W&W;. It is simply that beautiful. As the saying goes, if I could, I would. The new ref. 5370 looks classical yet modern, and still captures the old school Patek Philippe aesthetic. The two-ton...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325
Over the last two weeks, we’ve spent much time with the new Panerai Luminor Marina collection. Today’s watch, the Titanio PAM03325, visited our headquarters for a comprehensive photo shoot. We saw it again, and the rest of the collection, at Watches and Wonders 2025 a week later. Suffice it to say, the changes to the […] Visit Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G
The new Calatrava 8-Day may have gotten overshadowed by a platinum and salmon release, but it's still a watch worth coveting.
Worn & Wound
Kallinich Claeys Brings Creative Independent Watchmaking to Glashütte
In the Fall of 2023, I organized a RedBar event in Prague for Marco Lang, Stefan Kudoke, and Jochen Benzinger. During the event I met two young guys who looked in their early twenties, enjoying fresh Pilsner beer. When we raised our glasses to cheer, I noticed his wrist and had a hard time believing what I saw. The young man introduced himself as Thibault Claeys and said this is their first watch. The other young man introduced himself as Johannes Kallinich. While I looked at the watch, Thibault told me that both of them worked at A. Lange & Söhne until recently. Johannes was the head of the Lange 1 department and a certified Master Watchmaker with a deep understanding of technical construction. Thibault, on the other hand, graduated from watchmaking school in Antwerp, and joined the Lange 1815 department. His expertise lies in finishing techniques, and he plays MacGyver with all the machines and tooling. The next encounter with Thibault and Johannes was a planned visit to their atelier in the summer of 2024. Their small workshop is located right next to Nomos headquarters, and directly opposite from the SUG case workshop in Glashütte. The workshop is framed all around by large windows, an inspiration they took from Akrivia and Rexhep Rexhepi. Thibault walked me through “his side” of the workshop first where he built his own CNC milling machine. You see all the contraptions he built himself for making parts or for finishing of the parts. He says it actually all...
Teddy Baldassarre
Editors' Picks: Our Top All-New Watches Of 2025
Today we keep our post-Watches & Wonders 2025 recaps going with our takes on the best all-new watches of the show. We know there are a lot of line and color extensions released every year but what stood out to us from all the truly new watches? Well, to nobody’s surprise, there is now a watch release that has appeared on all three of three Editors’ Picks we have published so far. Also some smaller brands had big releases we loved this year, so let’s get into them. Mark Bernardo: Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] As always when a gaggle of nerdy watch writers share opinions and ideas, there was a bit of discussion prior to this article as to what constitutes a “new” watch. Does a new case size count, or a new movement or complication in an existing model, or a model from the past that has been radically redesigned but carries the same name? Hopefully I have deftly evaded these eternal (but fascinating) debates by submitting the “newest” and most groundbreaking timepiece I encountered this year. It has to be “new” if it sets a new world record, right? In the case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR], the milestone in question is debuting as the lightest mechanical dive watch ever made - just 52 grams in total, including the strap.The watch is an evolution of 2021’s Diver X Skeleton, which itself emerged from the mainstream (non-skeleton) Diver series, but takes that model’s extreme openworked structure to another level; according to the brand, the inside of the 4...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Exotic New Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold with a Tiger Iron Dial
Traditionally, Rolex sports (a.k.a. professional) watches are very often paired with black dials. As for the GMT-Master II, of all references available in the collection – and there are quite a lot of them, in all possible materials except platinum – only the white gold editions have had the privilege of colours: Pepsi with a […]