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Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908 Worn & Wound
Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908

Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 Refs. 52508 and 52509 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 Refs. 52508 and 52509

Due to its enviable position as the leading Swiss watch brand by revenue, Rolex tends to dominate headlines for even the smallest changes to its collections. So it’s even bigger news when the brand launches an entirely new collection, the Perpetual 1908, as it has on the opening day of this year’s Watches & Wonders. Named for the year that Hans Wilsdorf registered the Rolex trademark in Switzerland, the Perpetual 1908 is a slim, time-only watch with a display back that signals a renewed focus on the dress watch category for the giant of Geneva. Initial thoughts The Perpetual 1908 is a worthy replacement for the outgoing Cellini collection, which to me always felt like the forgotten child of the Rolex portfolio. Forced to use movements from their sportier siblings, the Cellini watches were never able to achieve the right proportions to be taken seriously as dress watches. The Perpetual 1908 debuts in four references in yellow and white gold, with the option of white or black satin finish dials; the black dials look especially good. The designs are atypical for Rolex, featuring a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock, and a new handset. “Superlative Chronometer” drapes over the sub-seconds dial, calling to mind the Rolex Veriflat of the 1950s. Speaking of the Veriflat, the 1908 case measures just 9.5 mm thick thanks to the new cal. 7140. This is a big improvement over the Cellini watches, which were over 12 mm thick. The 1908’s dress watch credentials are bolstered fur...

The smoky, sultry green Santos de Cartier novelties Time+Tide
Cartier novelties Mar 28, 2023

The smoky, sultry green Santos de Cartier novelties

The Santos de Cartier is now available in Smoky Green The new green dials can be purchased in the 40mm Large or 35mm Medium sizes. The blue dial model previously only available in a Large size is now also available in Medium. The trend of releasing as many green dials as possible may have passed … ContinuedThe post The smoky, sultry green Santos de Cartier novelties appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Odysseus Chronograph is the first-ever automatic chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 28, 2023

The new Odysseus Chronograph is the first-ever automatic chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne

Four years after its introduction, the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus is now presented in a chronograph format First-ever automatic chronograph calibre for A. Lange & Söhne – the new L156.1 DATOMATIC® calibre Boutique exclusive limited edition of 100 pcs. I hesitate to use the phrase ‘alternative’ here. Upon its introduction four years ago, the A. Lange … ContinuedThe post The new Odysseus Chronograph is the first-ever automatic chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduces Mar 28, 2023

Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial

The Patek Philippe 5224R is slated to be the ultimate travel Calatrava It pairs a slim micro-rotor calibre with a travel time complication and 24-hour display All the movement functions are operated via the crown via a patented system The travel time has become somewhat of a Patek Philippe signature over the years, with the … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions Time+Tide
IWC s Pilot’s Watch line-up Mar 28, 2023

IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions

For Watches & Wonders 2023, IWC have introduced three new references of IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41. Among the new trio are new cases in Oceana blue ceramic and 18k 5N gold. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar is also now available with a racing green dial. IWC releasing more variety of Pilot’s Watches should … ContinuedThe post IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes business and pleasure Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes Mar 28, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes business and pleasure

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph unites a chronograph with a double-sided display Draws inspiration from the first Reverso Chronograph of 1996 To showcase the chronograph movement, the dial is entirely skeletonised There’s a strong argument to be made that the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso should really be classified as sports watch. It was, after all, specifically developed … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes business and pleasure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New dials, movements and clasps for the Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 collection Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 collection Mar 28, 2023

New dials, movements and clasps for the Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 collection

Tudor have overhauled their fixed-bezel Black Bay watches in steel. The new collection features modern in-house movements and the T-fit clasp. All watches are available in blue, anthracite, or champagne, with or without diamond markers. Following last year’s Watches & Wonders blast of two-tone releases, it’s now time that the Tudor Black Bay fixed-bezel models … ContinuedThe post New dials, movements and clasps for the Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay GMT Mar 28, 2023

The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial

The Tudor Black Bay GMT is now available with an opaline white dial. Paired with the Snowflake hand set, it makes for a refreshing look. The blue and burgundy bezel looks more vibrant in contrast. Although last year’s Watches & Wonders held thunderous announcements for Tudor’s GMT fans thanks to the Black Bay Pro and … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation Time+Tide
Tudor Royal collection offers refined Mar 28, 2023

The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation

The new Tudor Royal models are paired with chocolate brown and salmon dials. There are four case sizes spanning from 28mm to 41mm. Each watch is available with or without diamond hour markers. Any time a design risk is taken, people could turn one way or another. The Tudor Royal is undoubtedly their most visually … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex takes off with 3 new Sky-Dweller models Time+Tide
Rolex takes off Mar 27, 2023

Rolex takes off with 3 new Sky-Dweller models

The Rolex Sky-Dweller sees three new releases for Watches & Wonders 2023. A brand new blue-green dial colour is a first for any Rolex model. The movement gets an update, too, with the introduction of the calibre 9002. Rolex’s most complicated timepiece, the Sky-Dweller, has dropped three new versions for 2023’s Watches & Wonders, featuring … ContinuedThe post Rolex takes off with 3 new Sky-Dweller models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gold rush: Rolex reintroduces the GMT-Master II in solid yellow gold and two-tone Time+Tide
Rolex reintroduces Mar 27, 2023

Gold rush: Rolex reintroduces the GMT-Master II in solid yellow gold and two-tone

The Rolex GMT-Master II is reintroduced in yellow gold and two-tone for Watches & Wonders 2023. Brand new is a bicolour black and grey Cerachrom bezel. The beloved Jubilee bracelet gets the Midas touch. The Pepsi. The Rootbeer. The Batman. Can I suggest “Goldfinger” as the latest Rolex GMT-Master II variant nickname? Honor Blackman wore … ContinuedThe post Gold rush: Rolex reintroduces the GMT-Master II in solid yellow gold and two-tone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Lange & Sohne Odysseus Gets Trick Automatic Chronograph Worn & Wound
Sinn EZM1 When started Mar 27, 2023

A Lange & Sohne Odysseus Gets Trick Automatic Chronograph

A Lange & Sohne came to Watches & Wonders with just a single release this year, and that’s all they needed to make a big impression. The watch is a new member of the Odysseus family, and it welcomes the brand’s first automatic chronograph. Like all of Lange chronograph movements, the new L156.1 within this watch is quite special, both mechanically and aesthetically. It should come as no surprise that the Odysseus platform accepts a chronograph compilation with ease, given the existing set of pushers that are integrated into the case, which are normally used to adjust the day and date. They still are, however their main function has been shifted to operating the chronograph. The Odysseus Chronograph retains the outsized day and date apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively, as well as a running seconds hand nested at 6 o’clock. There are no other sub dials present. The timing seconds and minute hands are stacked together and centrally mounted, just like the equally fabulous Sinn EZM1. When started, the red anodized aluminum timing seconds hand kicks into action, and the second timing hand records each minute that passes, up to 60 minutes. One unique detail here worth noting is that, when reset, that seconds hand will retrace every lap it’s taken around the dial. So if you’ve timed something for 15 minutes before resetting, the seconds hand will make 15 laps in quick succession back to its starting place. These operations are routed through the integrated pusher...

Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition Worn & Wound
Oris & Mar 27, 2023

Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition

Oris is expanding on their popular ProPilot X range of watches this year (a watch we reviewed here), but probably not in the way you were expecting. Meet the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, a green dial ProPilot X with a positive message and an easter egg up its sleeve. This watch represents Oris’ first time collaborating with Disney’s The Muppets franchise to create a truly unique experience around their popular pilot watch, and it gives us a deeper insight into Oris the brand than ever before. The theme of this watch is taking a minute for yourself, not taking life too seriously, and a reminder to have some fun.  The most striking detail of this ProPilot X is, obviously, the bright green dial. It’s not just any green, this is a key lime pie, cartoon level of green, and with a name like this you had better bring it. And bring it Oris most certainly has with this dial. I’d go so far as to say they could have ditched the white hour markers altogether and fully leaned into the concept, but they are there, so there is a level of practicality to the watch. There’s even a date window, but that part isn’t as straightforward. The big reveal of this watch happens on the first of every month, where the date window will reveal not a number, but an icon of the watch’s namesake, Kermit the Frog, of The Muppets fame. This is the once a month reminder to take a step back, lighten up a bit, and reflect on the positives in your life. That’s the idea, at least, and it might jus...

VIDEO: A Sneak Peek at Vacheron Constantin’s 2023 Novelties Revolution
Vacheron Constantin s 2023 Novelties Eleonor Mar 27, 2023

VIDEO: A Sneak Peek at Vacheron Constantin’s 2023 Novelties

Eleonor visits Vacheron Constantin’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates a couple of weeks before Watches and Wonders and the maison’s Style and Heritage Director, Christian Selmoni gives us a sneak preview of some of the novelties that will be launched at the fair. The retrograde complication is the theme for this year and we take a closer […]

The Black Bay’s Back, Alright! Tudor Launches the New Black Bay 54 and more Worn & Wound
Tudor Launches Mar 27, 2023

The Black Bay’s Back, Alright! Tudor Launches the New Black Bay 54 and more

We never know what to expect from Tudor at Watches & Wonders, and, well, they didn’t let us down in the surprise department this year, including with a new Black Bay model featuring a – get this – 37mm case. If you had called that one, you might be a psychic. But that was hardly it, we saw a new dial of the GMT, and the return of the Black Bay Burgundy, but with a METAS flavored surprise. The Black Bay’s Back – alright, let’s get into it. I recall being kind of blown away at Basel 2018 when Tudor launched the Black Bay 58. A 39mm Tudor dive watch! I couldn’t really believe it, as common as it might seem today. Well, today Tudor bested themselves once again with the Black Bay 54, a 37mm spiritual recreation of Tudor’s first dive watch, the 7922 from 1954. What you’ll find in the BB54 is a mashup of new (well, vintage-inspired new) and old, in, essentially, a scaled-down BB58. The case is said to have the proportions of the 7922 at 37mm x 11.24mm with 20mm lugs. Additionally, the bezel insert copies the layout of the 7922’s. The insert is black, and features numerals at intervals of 10 in a thin typeface, alternating with blocky rectangles that feel just a hair larger than they should be, but in keeping with the proportions of the original. It’s the kind of quirk that adds personality and quickly sets it apart from its slightly more contemporary siblings. I’m sure plenty of people will be excited to see that markings maintain the tone of the metal bel...

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 3 SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2023

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 3

German independent Kudoke has carved out its own niche with a distinctive blend of English-inspired movements and Germanic attention-to-detail in its Handwerk line of watches. The latest addition to the line is the Kudoke 3, which largely sticks to the successful formula of prior models, but offers a twist in the form of a split-level dial and triple-scale hour display. Once known primarily for ostentatiously skeletonised Unitas calibers, such as the watch worn by Dominic Monaghan’s character in Last Looks, Kudoke hit the reset button in 2019 with Handwerk line comprised of the Kudoke 1 and 2. The collection introduced a more restrained design aesthetic and importantly, brand’s first proprietary movement. The Kudoke 3 continues down this path, but goes further in terms of creative design. The Handwerk collection (from left): Kudoke 1, Kudoke 2, and Kudoke 3 Initial thoughts As a fan of modern German (and historical English) watchmaking, I’ve been impressed with the brand’s work since the launch of the Kudoke 1. Like Habring² and Laine, Kudoke offers a compelling alternative to mass-produced luxury watches. The Kudoke 3 is a thoughtful and unconventional addition to the Dresden-based brand’s growing collection, offering a novel time display with three scales for the hours along with a three-armed hour hand. This triple-scale calls to mind the distinctive seconds register of the 1990s Daniel Roth tourbillon (recently reborn as the Tourbillon Souscription), but ...