Hodinkee
This Week In The Shop: Four New-For-2024 Watches From Zenith
From a penchant for retro revival flair to new material experimentations for the Chronomaster Sport and beyond – Zenith contains multitudes.
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Hodinkee
From a penchant for retro revival flair to new material experimentations for the Chronomaster Sport and beyond – Zenith contains multitudes.
Worn & Wound
At Worn & Wound, we are not typically drawn to watches with extravagant diamond bezels and dials. However, we have stumbled upon something truly unique and special that we are confident will pique your interest, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll in 39mm. This watch not only stands out due to its distinct design but also features a dial made of chrysocolla stone, a material rarely used in the world of watchmaking. In fact, the only other commercially produced watch we found that used this material was a discontinued Shinola Birdy lady’s quartz watch. An atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef, island, or chain of islands around a body of water called a lagoon. Many people associate the word “lagoon” with images of Gilligan’s Island-a small beach with crystal-clear turquoise water. That is the inspiration for this watch. Each dial is crafted from hand-cut natural stone, ensuring each one is unique, so the paradise depicted by its breathtaking mix of blue, turquoise, brown, and black is exclusively yours. So, what is chrysocolla? Chrysocolla is a mineral that belongs to the silicate mineral group. It is often found in association with other secondary copper minerals such as malachite, azurite, and cuprite. Chrysocolla is known for its vibrant blue-green or green color, reminiscent of turquoise. It is named after the Greek words “chrysos,” meaning gold, and “kolla,” meaning glue, due to its historical use as a flux in soldering gold. It is not considered a rare gemston...
Monochrome
A rather discreet Swiss brand, Delma was founded in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town. Following a takeover led by Ulrich Wüthrich in 1966, the company was renamed Delma Watch Ltd. This year, as you’d expect, is an […]
Quill & Pad
Technically, this F.P. Journe watch is called the “Chronomètre Optimum Black Label,” but it should be called the “Ultimate.” That’s how much Tim Mosso reveres and admires a timepiece Journe himself describes as the most accurate mechanical watch he knows how to construct.
Fratello
It’s summertime, and the heat is on! Well, depending on where you live, perhaps the heat hasn’t shown up yet, but we trust that it’s coming. With that, it’s time for each of us at Fratello to name the best summer watches at three different price points. I’m on board with some oddball picks that […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Mike’s Picks From Citizen, Panerai, And Rolex to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
As a watch enthusiast, how frequently do you gaze at your watch and smile? What if your timepiece could return the gesture? From the renowned interior architect Alain Silberstein, in collaboration with Louis Erard, comes the Smile-Day, a watch that quite literally smiles back. Instead of showing the days of the week, this unique piece depicts various smiley faces along with the date. As a watch enthusiast, how frequently do you gaze at your watch and smile? What if your timepiece could return the gesture? From the renowned interior architect Alain Silberstein, in collaboration with Louis Erard, comes the Smile-Day, a watch that quite literally smiles back. Instead of showing the days of the week, this unique piece depicts various smiley faces along with the date. The post The Roundup: A Watch That Smiles Back, A Diver That Will Have You Spinning, and More appeared first on Worn & Wound.
On episode 85 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan co-host from Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024. With over 60 brands in attendance, it was a fantastic fair. Zach and Zach chose two brands each to talk to, one just debuting and the other a staple with a new release. Zach Kazan spoke to Monta about the Noble GMT, and then Colorado’s 5280 watches, who are creating rose-engine turned, vitreous enamel dials in the US. Zach Weiss then spoke to Chicago’s own Astor + Banks about the SeaRanger M2, as well as ARTEFKT Seven, a new brand that turned a lot of heads at the fair. To stay up to date about future Windup Watch Fairs, such as the New York City fair happening in October, head to WindupWatchFair.com The post A Week in Watches Ep. 85: Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Flying saucers, pocket watches and rainbows: there isn’t a single boring piece this week!The post New releases from Piaget, Furlan Marri, Hermès and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Canon Introduces the EOS R1 and R5 Mark II Pro photographers and serious amateurs were abuzz this week with a big announcement from Canon, who introduced two new cameras with next-generation autofocus capabilities and a host of other advanced features. The EOS R1 and R5 Mark II are geared toward the pro and “advanced amateur” markets, respectively, and offer a variety of upgrades over their predecessors. The EOS R1 has a body style reminiscent of earlier 1D series SLRs, and features a large vertical grip, enormous battery, and a construction that the brand says is meant to meet the needs of photojournalists working in conflict zones. It also has an onboard ethernet port, a useful feature for photographers covering breaking news who have a need to transmit files quickly to an editor or wire service. The R5 Mark II is being positioned as a camera ideal for event photographers and videographers, and comes equipped with a 45 megapixel sensor, an improved EVF, and a video recording rate of up to 8K60. The R5 Mark II and EOS R1 share a lot of the same processing technology, but the n...
Deployant
Celebrating a century of precision and elegance, Delma introduces the Heritage Chronograph 100 Years Limited Edition. This timepiece follows the success of the sold-out stainless steel Bicompax Heritage Chronograph. The watch is limited to 100 pieces and priced at US$3100.
Monochrome
Ninety years in the making, Audi has done something extremely cool! They’ve taken a concept that was never brought to life and finally built it. It’s called the Auto Union Type 52 Schnellsportwagen, and it’s basically the wildest Autobahn cruiser you can ever imagine! It’s a bit of an exaggeration saying it was ’90 years […]
Monochrome
Self-winding calibres are undeniably an advancement, especially those boasting extended autonomy. Yet, there is a timeless ritual, almost archaic, the deliberate act of winding a watch by thumb and forefinger, each click of the ratchet wheel a symphony for the discerning ear. This tactile dance, this connection to the mechanics, is a pleasure some aficionados […]
Worn & Wound
Lorier surprised us at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago last week with a new release dubbed the Rambler, a collaboration with Indiana based Janus Motorcycles. For Lorier to collaborate with a motorcycle brand might not make much sense at first, but stepping back, the two brands are very much in sync. Both have a trade in classic aesthetics rooted in mid century styles, and both brands prize simplicity in design. Most of all, Janus and Lorier both place a high value on actually getting out and using their products authentically. The experiences tied to riding or the types of sporting activities you might undertake while wearing a Lorier are core to each brand, and the Rambler evokes and invites those experiences in the same way that the brand’s prior watches have been successful in doing so. The Rambler is built on the same 36mm case that will be familiar to owners of the Astra and the Falcon. Like those watches (especially the Falcon) the Rambler is inspired by the classic field watch. Something Lorier does in their marketing materials that I always appreciate is draw direct parallels to specific watches that provided inspiration in the design process, and for the Rambler they’ve cited classic field and pilot’s watches like the Rolex Oyster Imperial, Universal Geneve 20504, and the Omega 6B/159. More importantly than the specific references though, Lorier ties the Rambler to motorcycle culture through the people who would have worn those watches. These are the war ...
Monochrome
Emmanuel Dietrich is a Swiss-based, French-born designer with French and German roots and an unrelenting drive to craft his ideal watch, who presented his first creations as an independent brand in 2014. His debut collection, the Dietrich OT, for Organic Time, was nothing short of a bold design experiment. It was curious, somewhat avant-garde, a […]
SJX Watches
Established two years ago by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver has just named the first outsider to its management ranks with James Marks as chief executive officer. The longtime head of Phillips Perpetual, the auctioneer’s watch boutique headquartered in London, Mr Marks is now based in Zurich for his new role; he remains a consultant to Phillips. (Pictured above, from left: James Marks, Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver.) Now 74 years old, the inimitable Jean-Claude Biver is something of an industry legend for having resurrected Blancpain and Hublot, but his eponymous brand is the first venture that is his own. Or more specifically, a Biver family affair: his youngest son Pierre, who is turning 25 this year, was cofounder of the brand. Mr Marks, who is 44 years old, will both help lead the brand as well as manage the transition from one generation of Bivers to the next. The movement of the one-off Biver Catharsis Minute Repeater Carillon Mr Marks is a longtime watch enthusiast who was a fund manager before he joined the watch industry six years ago. Soon after he set up Perpetual, a then-novel concept for an auction house where watches were available for sale year-round and not only during auction season. One of his earliest hires was Pierre Biver as an intern. Both an industry insider and outsider, Mr Marks is expected to bring a new perspective to Biver. Although the brand has only sold a few dozen watches to date, it has garnered volumes of praise and criticism...
Time+Tide
Van Cleef & Arpels' Poetry of Time exhibition has made its way to Melbourne, and Borna was on the ground to check it out.The post Ultra-rare Van Cleef & Arpels automata land in Melbourne for the Poetry of Time pop-up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Yes, it’s time to talk about watches for summer because that is indeed the season we’re in right now. This series is a nice reminder of that because the weather gods haven’t shown us any summer yet here in the Netherlands. I keep telling my six-year-old daughter that we’re actually in the middle of summer […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Daan’s Picks From Seiko, Ressence, Rolex, And More to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Alexey Kutkovoy considers the introduction of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972 to be one of the most important turning points in the evolution of wristwatches in the 20th century. Here he looks at the history of the Offshore and highlights 4 new models for the Offshore's 30th anniversary.
SJX Watches
The Plan-les-Ouates district of Geneva is well-known for its concentration of watchmaking facilities, earning it the nickname “Plan-les-Watch”. But the standout structure is arguably the Vacheron Constantin (VC) manufacture, which houses both management functions and production under one roof – or more specifically, under one curving metal skin that wraps over the top of the building from east to west. The area’s other prominent residents include Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Piaget, but you can also find numerous other brands like Frederique Constant, Harry Winston, and Laurent Ferrier clustered together in what feels like a large office park. “Plan-les-Watch” is where most of the actual watchmaking in Geneva gets done, since most brands have relocated their production facilities to the suburbs over time, leaving FP Journe as the only industrial operation in the city’s historic center. And it is here that power is expressed through architecture, from the imposing black glass facade of the Rolex building to the superyacht-like decks that wrap around the Patek Philippe manufacture. The reception at the manufacture. Image – Vacheron Constantin Completed in 2005 to celebrate VC’s 250th anniversary, the Vacheron Constantin building was designed by Bernard Tschumi Architects as a single building. A second wing was then added by the same firm in 2014, increasing both production space and staff amenities. A key emphasis of the building is lighting, with expansive...
SJX Watches
Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...
Time+Tide
We've compiled a list of 10 of the best sport watches you can buy today (and do not require a decade-long wait to be allocated).The post 10 of the best sports watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
In 1971, banker-turned-explorer Peter Gimbel set out on a 5-month voyage aboard the Terrier VIII to be the first person in the world to capture a Great White shark on film. He cobbled together an eclectic team for this adventure, including everyone from conservationists and shark experts to filmmakers and writers. This expedition resulted in the documentary film Blue Water, White Death, which has since become a cult classic within the diving community, and features a slew of very unique, very 70s dive watches to boot. Among the crew of early underwater luminaries (Stan Waterman, Ron and Valerie Taylor, anyone?), Gimbel also saw fit to hire budding singer/songwriter Tom Chapin along as a guitar-slinging jack of all trades, whereupon he became the natural soundtrack for the film. Tom’s role in this expedition is considered to be the inspiration for filmmaker Wes Anderson’s inclusion of Brazilian folk singer Seu Jorge in his sea-set feature The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou. Both films result in support of an eternal truth, that the best boat rides are the ones with folk singers aboard. For the last three years, the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago has brought enthusiasts from as far south as Texas and from as far north as Canada to gather and geek out on watches from around the world. Beginning with the first year of Windup Chicago, a dedicated team of watch enthusiast divers started an adjacent activity, affectionately dubbed “Windup in a Lake.” Each year, this intrepi...
Worn & Wound
If you choose to, it’s really easy to look around the watch industry and throw up your hands in frustration that there are no new ideas. Even as we move through a period of what many hardcore enthusiasts agree is a new Golden Age of inventiveness in the affordable watch space, there’s a lot of evidence that many are playing it safe. Brands both big and small, at all price points, tend to revert to proven formulas that they know will work for them. The idea, after all, is to sell watches, so you can’t really blame anyone for deciding to lean on past performance in the hopes that it will predict future success. But that makes a brand like Lebond that much more interesting. They’re not leaning on any proven formulas, and not only are they trying something genuinely different, but brand owner Asier Mateo is actually relinquishing control of the design of each piece year in and year out. I would describe Lebond as a fairly high concept and niche brand. The style of these watches will not appeal to everyone, and collectors would seem to benefit from a long view of the brand – it will all make a lot more sense in five, ten, or twenty years, if all goes according to plan. The idea is relatively simple: each year, Lebond releases a new watch designed by a different well known architect. Mateo is an architect himself, and founded the brand as a vehicle to expose watch lovers to the work of the world’s most talented architects. Of course, he’s also aiming these watche...
Deployant
The "Pilot" watch company has decided to bring in a new line which dives into the deep blue sea. Here's the in-depth review of the latest Zenith Defy Extreme Diver.
SJX Watches
Farer unveils the Monopusher GMT in two variants, Cobb and Segrave, names might be familiar to those following the brand, as they were also the names of its now-discontinued single-button chronograph models. The new Monopusher GMT offerings are essentially identical in design to their respective predecessors but now sport a second time zone. Both models share the same cushion-shaped stainless steel case, similar to that used for the Chronograph Hand-Wound, but thicker to accommodate the triple-stacked hands in the centre. Initial thoughts Micro brands occupy a unique niche in the market. They often equip their watches with no-frills but cost-efficient ETA or Selita calibres, or even cheaper movements, but set themselves apart aesthetically while excelling at marketing online. Farer is a perfect example of this, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The hand-wind Sellita calibre inside the Monopusher GMT is elaboré grade, but still basic. Farer, however, has done a good job at dressing it up. The Segrave on a “Milanese” bracelet And over on the front, the overall design is simple and clearly vintage inspired, but still manages to possess the Farer aesthetic thanks to its use of geometric shapes and primary colours. The cushion-shaped case has a familiar 1970s style, but it stands out with a knurled surface on the recessed case sides. Priced at US$2,195, the Farer Monopusher GMT is priced similar to its “micro” brand competitors but offers good value compared to e...
Time+Tide
Check out what WatchPro has to say about us opening up our new Watch Discovery Studio in London later this year. The post WatchPro report on our upcoming London Discovery Studio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Today, for our latest in-depth video, we’re going technical. This is what MONOCHROME is all about, after all. Sharing the knowledge behind fine horology and understanding how our beloved mechanical watches actually work. Today’s topic is one dear to our hearts, as it combines everything we love in fine watchmaking: high-end finishing, mechanical ingenuity, profound […]
Time+Tide
Andrew visits Swiss Timing LTD to explore Omega timekeeping that will elevate the experience of the 2024 Paris Olympics to the next level.The post How Omega Olympic timekeeping technology maximises precision, fairness, and storytelling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Repeaters are one of the most complicated mechanisms in watches and over the years the complication has been refined by successive generations of watchmakers. Now, perhaps more than ever, watchmakers dedicate absolute attention to perfecting the quality, speed, accuracy, and durability of the striking works. Various components are required to chime the tunes of time with hammers and gongs. Paradoxically, amongst the most crucial parts of a chiming watch are those that work quietly, or silently, in the background – the governor. One of the most recent new repeater calibres, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater What is a governor? The governor regulates the speed of the striking pattern, in other words the pace of the individual chimes. A repeater movement contains a separate gear train for the repeating works, which are powered by their own smaller, auxiliary spring. The last component of this train consists of the governor. The governor’s task is to introduce resistance in the repeater train, allowing it to be regulated. Therefore, less resistance accelerates the striking speed, while more resistance slows down the repeater chimes. The Vacheron Constantin cal. 1731 with the secondary spring visible between the hammers The fine-tuning of the repeater’s speed is prized as an essential factor in ensuring a perfect series of chimes. If the pace is too fast, the vibrations of the gongs produce jarring overtones that cancel each other out. If too slow, not o...
Quill & Pad
At its core, the O.G. Deep Space is a very simple watch without any gimmicks masquerading as features, allowing it to be observed and appreciated for what it is, a solid time-only watch. It displays the hours and minutes on a supremely clean dial that lacks pomp or flourish, with just enough going on to create a strong first impression.
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