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Monochrome
British indie brand Farer was founded in 2015 by four friends with backgrounds in watch retail. Using Swiss-made mechanical movements, Farer offers a portfolio of confident designs with an eccentric British twist and competitive prices, thanks to the brand’s direct-to-consumer approach that eliminates intermediaries. The name Farer, derived from Old English terms like seafarer and […]
SJX Watches
A long defunct Geneva watchmaker, Niton has been revived and is getting off the ground with the Prima, a historically-inspired jump hour watch. With some serious tricks up its sleeve – the proprietary calibre is surprisingly excellent – the Prima might just be the right new-meets-old infusion the watch market needs. Initial thoughts Bringing back defunct but once illustrious watch manufactures is not a sure thing, and Niton might be more challenging than most given the lack of name recognition. The brand, however, did have a glorious, if short, history. The introductory model of the recently revived brand is the Prima. While the watch takes its inspiration from pieces made in the 1930s, the overall impression is more evocative of retro-futuristic 1960s. Rounded typography, thick indices, and a concentric pattern on the central minutes disk all make for a look that’s equally comforting and refined. Arguably the best surprise is the in-house NHS01 inside the Prima. A square movement developed in-house, the ambitious, hand-wound NHS01 integrates the jump hour complication with the in-line minutes disk and small seconds display, all while bearing the coveted Poinçon de Genève. Seeing a small independent brand earn the demanding hallmark for its first run of pieces is nothing short of amazing. Both versions of the Prima sit at under the CHF50,000 mark, which places the model in the upper echelons of pricy independent time-only watches. However, one might argue the P...
Monochrome
In recent years, Audemars Piguet has decisively refined the Code 11.59 collection, transforming it into a serious platform for contemporary haute horlogerie. For 2026, the brand unveils a fresh interpretation of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon, now with an ivory-toned signature dial and a sophisticated mix of white gold and black […]
Monochrome
Audemars Piguet introduced the Code 11.59 in 2019, emerging as a contemporary AP-style expression of classic watchmaking. Over the years, the line has matured, expanded and reviewed its proportions. Introduced in 2023, the 38mm case offered a more compact and versatile interpretation of the Code 11.59 design. In early 2026, the brand presents two new […]
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts a trio of new perpetuals calendars, led by the first open-worked version of brand’s cutting edge perpetual calendar launched last year with the skeleton cal. 7139 inside the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak. And rounding out the trio is the first all-ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar powered by the cal. 7138. Initial Thoughts The open-worked version of AP’s latest-generation perpetual calendar movement arguably does most justice to a clever movement that is one of the most notable such movements on the market. While there was little visual difference between solid-dial versions of AP’s new perpetual calendars and the preceding versions, the open-worked examples are less similar, at least up close, as the perpetual calendar works are so clearly different. The new open-work dial givers owners a look at what is going on under the hood as they adjust the calendar, which I see as a significant value add given the unusual and innovative mechanics. While AP could have been more daring, the last year’s crop of Royal Oak Perpetuals were good looking watches. The new pair, in both Code 11.59 and Royal Oak formats, look nearly identical from an arms length to their predecessors. The open-worked models are mostly monochrome, the Code 11:59 is rhodium-plated white gold with a black ceramic mid-case while the Royal Oak is titanium with polished Palladium 500 bulk-metallic glass (BMG) accents and rose gold dial furniture. Neither break new ground for the b...
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SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) updates the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with a new manufacture calibre, sapphire display back, while slightly tweaking the iconic design – and retaining the price of its predecessor. The new cal. 6401 comes with welcome quality-of-life improvements such as a longer power reserve and instantaneous date without tradeoffs in wearability, beat rate, or even cost, making this compact chronograph one of the most sensible and compelling offerings in the Royal Oak line. Initial Thoughts AP debuted the first Royal Oak chronograph in 1997 and it was powered by the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185, a landmark movement for automatic chronograph design. Now, nearly three decades later, AP is a true industrialised manufacture, and the cal. 1185 has been replaced with the new cal. 6401, a modern movement that with meaningful upgrades under the hood. This also comes with some minute tweaks to the dial and a crowd pleasing display case back, while the case and bracelet remain as excellent as always. Laudably, this comes without a significant price increase, with the new Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm in steel costing only 3.6% more than its predecessor. New Engine AP’s new cal. 6401 is a solidly-spec’ed movement despite being small and thin for a modern chronograph. It’s wide and taller than the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185 but only slightly. It is 27 mm in diameter (up from 26.2 mm) and 5.7 mm tall (up from 5.5 mm) though even with the addition of a sapphire ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches with enamel dials rarely fail to impress with their exquisitely finished surfaces, their impressive durability, and a level of artisanal craftsmanship that might not even be readily apparent to the naked eye but somehow elevates the entire timepiece to a higher level of luxury. Enamel dials - which are made by fusing finely ground, colored glass powders onto metal substrates through repeated firings in a kiln at high temperatures - are still fairly rare in the watch world, and almost (but not entirely) impossible to find below a certain echelon of pricing, Often, as in some of the limited editions below, an enamel dial is one essential component of a timepiece that combines several notable elements, including elite or unusual case metals, high-complication movements, or any number of special features. Here are 10 watches with enamel dials that have caught our eye over recent years. [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst"] Price: 315,000 euros at release, Case Size: 29.5mm x 39.2mm, Thickness: 10.3mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Manually wound Caliber L042.1 In 2008, German haute horlogerie house A. Lange & Söhne brought a technical upgrade to the tourbillon - an 18th century invention originally designed to shield a watch’s balance from the ill effects of gravity - that was both subtle and substantial. The Saxon brand’s Cabaret Tourbillon featured the first tourbillon movement with a st...
Monochrome
We closely and thoroughly examined the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in steel (16204ST) when it was introduced for the RO´s 50th anniversary, as the model has become a reference for how Audemars Piguet approaches the skeletonisation of an icon. Since then, it has been followed by precious metal executions in white gold (16204BC) and yellow gold (16204BA). […]
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. The Global Travel Stash from Matador Here at Worn & Wound, much of the team is gearing up for what will be a rather intense season of travel. Between trade shows, Windup, and maybe even some personal travel (imagine that!) a lot of us are thinking about where we’re going and what we’ll be bringing along with us to make those trips as smooth as possible (but honestly, we don’t need much of an excuse to think about the gear side of things). To that end, a new piece of kit from Matador caught our eye recently. The Global Travel Stash is a low profile, weatherproof carry solution meant to house your most important travel essentials. Things like cash, credit cards, your passport, keys – all the little things that you absolutely need to keep secure. The Global Travel Stash is also RFID blocking and can be carried like a wallet or around your neck or even as a cross-body “bag” if you’d prefer. Check it out at the Matador website here. The retail price is a very reasonable $49. The Leatherman OPNR We love a ridiculously simple everyday carry solution, and the new OPNR from Leatherman is about as straightforward as it gets. This extremely minimal keychain ...
WatchAdvice
We have gone hands-on with the new Year of the Fire Horse limited edition Clifton from Baume & Mercier, which turns out to be a great Chinese New Year piece and an all-around dressier watch. What We Love The grey gradient dial looks great Good size at 40mm to suit most wrists Unique date wheel aperture with galloping horses What We Don’t The leather strap is on the stiffer side The crown stem is on the looser side, with some play in it when changing the date and time Quite a bit of reflection on the crystal at certain angles Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 It has become customary for watch brands to tap into the Chinese Zodiac to celebrate the Chinese New Year. For many, this time of year represents new beginnings, traditionally celebrating the end of winter and the beginning of spring (in the northern hemisphere that is), a new year in the lunar calendar and new life. I think this is something we can all appreciate, no matter what our religious or philosophical beliefs are. So each year, coming into the new calendar year, and especially leading up to the Chinese New Year around February, we see a slew of brands bringing out their interpretation of the new Zodiac sign that is to come, of which there are 12, meaning we only see this every 12 years, and in each animal sign, there are 5 elements that are associated with it. Thus, each Zodiac sign with a specific element will only come around every 60 ye...
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Fratello
I had to drive from Amsterdam to Brussels in 2015 to see the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time with deadbeat seconds in the metal. It was worth it. Both the three-handed Geophysic True Second and Universal Time impressed me a lot, especially the travel watch with a world-map dial and a practical complication. Upon learning […] Visit Why I Bought The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I’ll be honest and say it right off the bat: the G-SHOCK MRGB2000KT3A is not for me. Still, I am just one person in an endless ocean of watch enthusiasts, so I’ll try to take a look at the MRGB2000KT3A through the eyes of someone it is for. After all, I am not immune to the allure of a G-SHOCK; I’ve owned several, and they’ll always have a place in my heart as one of the first watch brands that I really loved. So, with my new persona adopted, let’s dive into the newest-and most limited-model in the MRG-B2000 series. The first notable thing about the MRGB2000KT3A is the name attached to it. Kobayashi Masao, a master metalsmith and engraver from Otsu, Shiga Prefecture, has lent his craft to the watch in a big way, etching a phoenix on the bezel. Perhaps I am making that sound rather tame, though; to clarify, the phoenix peeks out from the left side of the bezel, with flames mirroring its position on the right side. The engraving’s dramatic persona is based on the phoenix design on the tsuba iron guard-a fitting between a Japanese sword’s hilt and the blade-of Kobayashi Masao’s MR-G katana, making a connection between the watch and the artist’s own line of work. The deep-layer hardened titanium bezel wears a distinctive blue-green kurogane-iro (“iron color”) shade, thanks to a green DLC coating and brown Arc Ion Plating (AIP). Stippling further texturizes the bezel, and four emerald-capped screws sit at the 1, 5, 7, and 11 o’clock positions. No...
SJX Watches
Startup independent brand Mermont has just made its public debut with the heavyweight La Parfaite, translating as “perfect one” in French. Assembled and adjusted by independent watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, La Parfaite is among the most affordable platinum watches on the market, despite its contemporary case size and upscale construction. Initial thoughts At first glance, Mermont’s debut watch could pass for a handsome, stainless steel Breguet Souscription homage, probably priced accordingly. However, La Parfaite is not stainless steel, it is (mostly) platinum – and surprisingly affordable. Sebastien Bey-Haut, a watch and photography enthusiast, founded the brand, enlisting none other than Nicolas Delaloye, a Genevan watchmaker and AHCI member, to bring it to life. Though less commercially successful than some of his peers, Mr Delaloye is a respected independent watchmaker who spent eight years with the Patek Philippe Museum. Mr Delaloye personally polishes the single hour hand, performs final adjustment, and cases up the watches. It’s unusual for an upstart brand to debut with a precious metal watch, but that’s exactly what Mermont has done. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from focusing on the value proposition, pricing the La Parfaite well below industry norms for a platinum watch, especially a full size mechanical watch. Priced at CHF10,998 before taxes, La Parfaite is a full 38 mm in diameter and certainly among the least expensive mechanical platinum wa...
Monochrome
Following the recent and successful release of our fourth Montre de Souscription, we’re thrilled to announce the launch of our next Montre de Souscription. Following the release of the Montre de Souscription 1, a salmon-toned, sector dial chronograph based on the Habring² Chrono-Felix, the Montre de Souscription 2, a MONOCHROME white interpretation of the Czapek […]
Fratello
Sometimes you run into watches that are in a different category of appreciation. The moment I saw the inaugural Toledano & Chan B/1 with the lapis lazuli dial, it triggered my appreciation for design, not only in watches but also in general. The beautifully sculpted case, wonderfully detailed bracelet, and stunning lapis lazuli dial made […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r to read the full article.
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Fratello
What a strange question. Why would the Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda, a new interpretation of the Swiss brand’s 50s Presidents’ Chronograph Heritage model, only be interesting for Real Madrid fans? Why wouldn’t the socios of Atletico Madrid, Barcelona, or fans of other football clubs outside Spain want this retro-looking chronograph on the wrist? Perhaps it’s […] Visit Hands-On With The New Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) has formally inaugurated the Arc Manufacture in its historical home of Le Brassus. Designed by de Giuli & Portier of Geneva, the 23,700-square metre building will accommodate 700 employees under one roof - a number that would have been almost unheard of in the days of the historical établissage system. It connects to, and partially wraps around, the existing Manufacture des Forges, which was completed in 2008 and housed around 300 employees - an impressive figure for its time. The expanded manufacture should ultimately help boost production, especially considering it was designed with Industry 4.0 in mind. In other words, it’s a smart factory. This includes a Goods-to-Person (GTP) automated sort and retrieval system which uses 66 robots to pick the needed components, which are then delivered by robotic shuttle. While such systems are already used by high-volume luxury watch brands like Rolex and Omega, few haute horlogerie brands have the volumes to justify such an investment. According to AP, the GTP system saves an average of 15 seconds per operation. But more than scale, the new manufacture should deliver higher quality of product – namely superior reliability and less defects – across AP’s offerings. Like other new manufactures of its type, the Arc is extremely energy efficient as well thanks to 321 metres of electrochromic glass, which can automatically change opacity to regulate the amount of light, and heat, allowed in. The building...
Quill & Pad
The Inflection by Atelier Wen makes a striking statement with its tantalum case, a rare, durable metal with a naturally dark, steely hue that evolves beautifully over time. It’s a watch that feels as unique to the wrist as it is in the light, turning material innovation into art. The post Inflection: Atelier Wen’s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship appeared first on Quill & Pad.
Worn & Wound
For the third year in a row, Fears will introduce a limited edition watch to be sold exclusively at British Watchmakers’ Day, which this year occurs on March 7. It continues a theme established in 2024 of using 925 Sterling Silver for the case material, a flourish that feels special and, somehow, quintessentially British. This year’s limited edition piece, the Brunswick 40 1846 Edition, debuts a new case design as well as a special lacquer dial made just for this year’s LE. It’s also an anniversary piece, as this year marks the 180th anniversary of brand founder Edwin Fear opening his first watchmaking workshop in Bristol in 1846. This Brunswick 40 case is polished on all sides, taking full advantage of the natural lustre of 925 sterling silver. It’s also engraved with the initials of Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the brand’s managing director, which is a nod to a tradition started with the first silver pocket watch made by Edwin Fear. Additionally, like previous British Watchmakers’ Day editions in silver, the crown is set with a single diamond to note that the case is constructed from a precious metal. Diving into the specs, it’s worth noting that the case of this Brunswick 40 is very slightly thinner than the standard issue version. Per the spec sheet, this LE measures in at 11.1mm tall, while the typical Brunswick 40 is 11.9mm in height. That difference, you won’t be surprised to learn, likely comes down to the use of a manually wound movement in this...
Hodinkee
Does the deal to sell the storied Swiss brand to Italian jeweler and watch retailer Damiani herald a new era of deconsolidation in the watch industry?
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SJX Watches
MB&F; has updated its EVO line with an aquamarine version of Stephen McDonnell’s ingenious double chronograph, freshly upgraded with the flyback functionality first seen in the classic Legacy Machine Sequential. The Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback EVO is a tough titanium timer suited to the rigours of daily wear thanks to its shock-protected and water resistant case and supple rubber strap. Initial thoughts MB&F; has enjoyed enormous success over the last few years, and while the rising tide of interest in independent watchmaking has lifted most major brands, it helps that MB&F;’s products are excellent and original. While the brand rarely dabbles in traditional complicated watchmaking, its first two forays – the LM Perpetual and Sequential, both designed by Stephen McDonnell – are standouts in their categories. The Sequential in particular is among the most interesting and creative chronographs on the market. This latest iteration applies the movement’s latest upgrades, principally the flyback function, to a sporty, titanium, Legacy Machine EVO case, which comes with enhanced shock and water resistance. Despite these tangible upgrades, the EVO Sequential is no larger than its dressier precious metal Legacy Machine counterparts. That’s a good thing, since the watch has a commanding, almost overwhelming presence on the wrist as it is. One of the benefits of the EVO case, compared to that of the classic LM, is the presence of a FlexRing shock absorber that provide...
SJX Watches
Since taking over Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH has gradually revamped the American jeweller, starting with its retail stores and jewellery. The reboot of its watchmaking division has proceeded more slowly, and with jewelled ladies’ watches first. Now Tiffany & Co. has finally turned to men’s watches with the Tiffany Timer, a chronograph powered by the Zenith El Primero 400 movement. With a dial lacquered in Tiffany’s trademark blue, the Tiffany Timer is easily recognisable. And on the back, the movement gets a hand-engraved, solid gold “Bird on a Rock” on the rotor. The Tiffany Timer is a promising start, but the jeweller clearly still has a long way to go to compete with its rivals, or even luxury marques like Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Initial thoughts The Tiffany Timer has a few things in its favour, but isn’t quite good enough. The design is classical and appealing, though a little generic. Granted, the dial might seem a bit much, but for a small-run edition it makes sense. The baguette diamond indices on the Tiffany Blue dial are a nice touch, as is the “Bird on the Rock” on the rotor; both add a touch of luxe to the watch. The El Primero adds horological credibility, but only up to a degree. The El Primero is a historical movement with many strengths, but the El Primero isn’t quite high-end enough for a watch of this price. It would make more sense in an affordable, steel version of the Tiffany Timer that is presumably in the works. All in all the Tif...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton sharpens its haute horlogerie credentials with the Escale Minute Repeater, a chiming complication paired with a jump hour and retrograde minutes display. Built around La Fabrique du Temps’s proven minute repeater calibre, the watch trades the previous Escale minute repeater’s world time function for a cleaner, more focused dial dominated by grey flammé guilloché. The result puts Louis Vuitton in direct competition with established players in complicated watchmaking, and comes complete with a discreet repeater slide hidden within the signature trunk-inspired lugs. Initial thoughts On the back of a strong 2025, Louis Vuittion doubles down on haute horlogerie, now in a more traditional case than last year’s Tambour. While the brand still offers the quartz Tambour Street Diver for just a few thousand dollars, Louis Vuittion’s ambitions clearly lie in the high-end. After years of strategic acquisitions and investments, the brand has the industrial base to compete and the know-how to do things its own way. The Escale Minute Repeater is the embodiment of Louis Vuitton’s ambitions, and is competitive with other minute repeaters from established haute horlogerie brands thanks to its modern movement and tasteful details. In short, it shows the brand understands the tastes of the day, and, more importantly, how to deliver a compelling package that leans into Louis Vuitton’s unique legacy and brand DNA. Furthermore, the minute repeater is something of a s...
Fratello
Yema is always updating and improving its extensive collection. One of the main focus points of the last few years has been to equip an increasing number of its watches with a proprietary caliber. It led to the introduction of the Skin Diver powered by the CMM.20 movement last April. This year, the French brand […] Visit Yema Unveils The Skin Diver Slim Bronze CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Regular readers might remember our coverage of the debut watch from VPC almost two years ago. This was a special project as it comes from Thomas van Straaten, whose byline many of you may have seen over at his main gig, as a writer at Fratello. The Type 37HW, the debut release from VPC, was conceived as something as the ultimate enthusiast’s watch, with special attention paid to the small details that serious watch lovers are particularly attuned to. In practice, that means you end up with a watch that is very subtle, with lots of things that are special about it but perhaps don’t advertise themselves in big bold colors. VPC, after all, is an acronym for a Latin phrase that translates to “beauty through restraint,” and if that isn’t a mission statement of enthusiast focused watch culture, I don’t know what is. For the second VPC release, the brand is back with a watch that builds on the design language of the Type 37HW but shifts it specifically into the realm of the dive watch. The Type 39VM is, according to the brand, the thinnest 200 meter water resistant automatic dive watch on the market, which is a bold claim but seems to be backed up by a cursory review of the data. The case height is listed at 9.34mm, which is quite thin indeed for a watch like this. In keeping with VPC’s design principles, van Stratten set out to create a watch that was purely functional but also didn’t sacrifice ergonomics or aesthetics. Through an exploration of figuring out wh...
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