Hodinkee
Introducing: The Universal Genève Relaunch Brings Back The Iconic Polerouter In Eleven Variants
The new Polerouter is offered in two sizes, with a new microrotor movement and a distinctly modern sensibility.
Results for Movement vs Caliber
3,034 articles · 487 videos found · page 51 of 118
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Anton Suhanov Returns with the Flamingo
Russian independent watchmaker and ACHI member Anton Suhanov returns with his third wristwatch, the dynamic Flamingo. Featuring Mr Suhanov’s first in-house movement, the Flamingo positions its massive balance wheel dial-side, and has a few other tricks up its sleeve as well. Initial thoughts Anton Suhanov made a name for himself for his inventive clocks, but more recently has turned his attention toward the more lucrative wristwatch market. Mr Suhanov’s first two wristwatches were modular constructions piggybacked on stock movements. Despite this common approach, his modifications were transformative, making his movements feel more personal and “in-house” than some truly in-house movements that are more traditional in concept. This evident commitment to the craft quickly gained Mr Suhanov a good reputation. After about four years of development, Mr Suhanov has unveiled a calibre he can truly call his own, the cal. Su26.1L. He built the movement from scratch, which gave him complete freedom both in terms of design and functionality. The result is a movement that possesses a number of unique and charming traits, both technical and aesthetic in nature. While the design of the Flamingo as a whole is deeply original (especially the use of non-functional ruby pallets for the hands), some elements on the dial side remind me of similar features of Greubel Forsey’s watches. For example, the two small sub-dials - a 24-hour indicator and small seconds - are rem...
Monochrome
Introducing – Bell & Ross BR-X3 Micro-Rotor, More to See Than Just Time
Parisian brand Bell & Ross has long worked with open dials, showing more of the movement instead of covering it up. With the BR-X3 line, that approach also sits well within the brand’s circle-within-a-square design language introduced in 2005. After last year’s BR-X3 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor, this new BR-X3 Micro-Rotor keeps the same idea, but this […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback RRCHF
Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s latest creation is the first complication solely under his own name, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF). Very much embodying his defining style both in terms of aesthetics and execution, the RRCHF nonetheless illustrates the evolution of his approach to watchmaking, particularly in the subtle, fine details of the movement. With a three-register layout that brings to mind historical pocket watches, the RRCHF has a fired enamel with a modern twist in the form of sapphire counters. The movement, on the other hand, reflects Mr Rexhepi’s love of symmetry and fine decoration, while also incorporating a useful bonus in the form of an instantaneously jumping minute register. Initial thoughts After having enjoyed unparalleled success with his time-only creations – exceptionally elaborate but still three hands – Mr Rexhepi is executing a plan he has long talked about: realising his interpretation of the important complications in watchmaking. The RRCCHF is perhaps only the start of the plan, but it is a magnificent chronograph. Conceptually, it is similar to one of the great chronographs, the Lange Datograph, but sans date. While the Datograph, way back in 1999, sought to essentially replicate the intricacy of a pocket watch movement with elaborate exaggeration, the RRCHF is clearly a modern creation, yet imbued with numerous traditional and historical elements. The overall style is now familiar; it echoes the design of the Chrono...
Fratello
Into The Pacific With The Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean Of Storms
The Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms is a wonderful holiday watch. Providing a mechanical caliber and the wearing experience of a Blancpain, this Swatch is a whole lot of fun. It’s good that this plasticky watch has a decent level of waterproofness too. Sydney’s spring has been a tempestuous affair to say the least. […] Visit Into The Pacific With The Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean Of Storms to read the full article.
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Junghans Max Bill vs. Sternglas Naos | Can you Bauhaus on a Budget?
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: La Joux-Perret CEO Jean-Claude Eggen
The head of the Swiss movement maker explains the economics of producing the engines that drive timepieces.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Baltic Unveils the Heures du Monde, Its First Worldtimer Watch
Baltic debuts the Heures du Monde, its first worldtimer, with stone dials, a vintage-inspired layout, and a Soprod C125 movement.
SJX Watches
Seiko’s Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon is Ultra-Thin and Engraved
Exhibiting at Watches & Wonders in Geneva for the first time, Seiko’s high-end marque Credor is rolling out the Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved (ref. GBCF997). While the latest Credor is only a cosmetic variation of an existing model, but the latest Goldfeather Tourbillon is nonetheless a top-of-the-line model in both technical and decorative terms: the ultra-slim movement features a tourbillon, while the dial and movement are hand engraved. The hand-engraved cal. 6850 Initial thoughts Though this year’s Goldfeather Tourbillon is identical to last year’s edition save for decor, it looks strikingly different, underlining the different decorative techniques employed. While last year’s model was ornate and figurative, the latest version is clean and almost monochromatic. The lack of colour belies the complexity of the dial decoration. The entire dial is engraved, right down to the radial graining. Instead of conventional brushing, the radial pattern is achieved with a manual engraving technique. The stylistic different continues onto the movement, which is equally finely decorated, and also impressively slim. While the strength of the artisanal execution and ultra-thin watchmaking are obvious, the Goldfeather Tourbillon is fundamentally a facelift to a movement that’s been around for a long time. To go as far as its sister brand Grand Seiko, Credor would have to do something more novel. Fine lines The Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved is self descriptive: it i...
Deployant
New: Speake Marin Ripples Kármán Line
Speake Marin extends their Ripples collection with a new thinner movement - the SMA06 in a novelty they call the Ripples Kármán Line.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Fifty From Raymond Weil Celebrates The Brand’s Semicentennial By Offering A Piece Of The Past
Making a statement for a half-century celebration with a chronograph that pairs a unique dial with a new-old-stock caliber from 1976.
Video
AVOID A SCAM! - Franken Watch Vs Modded - What You Should Know GIAJ#8
SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Marks 50 Years with 50 Year-Old Valjoux 23
Building on the success of its retro wristwatch, Raymond Weil is marking its 50th anniversary with the Millesime “The Fifty”. While it retains the familiar “sector” dial of the Millesime, the Fifty boasts upgraded mechanics in the form of a “new old stock” Valjoux 236 dating from 1976, the year of brand’s founding by the eponymous Raymond Weil. The Fifty combines the vintage movement with a thoughtful design that includes an appropriately sized 37 mm case – steel but with a white gold bezel no less – and novel texturing on the “sector” dial. Notably, the Fifty is also priced well at under CHF9,000. Initial thoughts The base model Millesime is good for what it is, combining an appealing design with an affordable price. The Fifty is more expensive, but arguably even better, because it still has an appealing aesthetic, but now with an excellent movement and a fair price. Watches powered by a vintage Valjoux 23 usually cost more – Singer Reimagined’s equivalent costs almost double – making the Fifty a good value proposition. And it certainly doesn’t hurt that it evokes the Patek Philippe ref. 1436 “Tasti Tondi”. But it’s more than just accessible; the design of the basic Millesime has been elaborated on in a concise and logical manner. The result is a watch that clearly resembles the standard model, but with finer details, including the linear patterning on the dial centre. I disagree with some minor details, like the luminous hands that don...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nomos Made Its Best Entry-Level Watch Even Better
The Nomos Club Campus gets two new colorways, a better movement, and a smaller lug span. Here's what that means for buyers.
Monochrome
First Look – American Indie Brand Fleming Introduces the Updated Series 1 Mark II
Founded by Thomas Fleming, Fleming is part of a new generation of American independents approaching watchmaking as a complete design exercise rather than a sum of components. The inaugural Series 1 Launch Edition already set the tone, cohesion between case, dial and movement, unified by the behaviour of light, offering a combination of refined proportions, […]
Time+Tide
The new Fleming Series 1 Mark II Pacific is a tantalum-cased masterclass of hand-decoration
The Fleming Series 1 Mark II Pacific has a tantalum case that to 2.5 years to develop, and a movement with 189 hand-finished interior angles.The post The new Fleming Series 1 Mark II Pacific is a tantalum-cased masterclass of hand-decoration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The Baltic Heures du Monde, an Accessible Take on The Worldtime
Worldtimers are mechanically complex watches, relying on coordinated discs to show all time zones at once. That is not quite what Baltic is doing here. With the new Heures du Monde, the brand takes a different route, bringing it in under EUR 1,500 and building on a Swiss GMT movement to rethink how the information […]
Video
Rolex vs Grand Seiko – GMT Watches | Watchfinder & Co.
Monochrome
First Look – Breguet Gives a Modern Twist to the Tradition Collection, with 5 new References (Incl. Video)
Born in 2005 as the reference 7027 (a compact 37mm model with power reserve indicator and hand-wound movement), the Breguet Tradition has since become a classic of the brand and one of its most recognisable watches. It’s also one with possibly the strongest connection to the past. It’s not a vintage re-edition done the classic […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Felipe Pikullik 'The Sternenhimmel FPA1'
The Berlin-based independent sets the brand up for the future with its first in-house caliber.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Most Attainable High-Beat Automatic Watch is One You Can Wear Ever
If you’re not familiar with high-frequency movement calibers, or “high-beat”, as they’re also known, you can think of them as a sort of final boss within mechanical watches. That 5 Hertz heartbeat translates to a hypnotic ten ticks per second, and apart from Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive, which is an entirely different an
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Gorgeous Vintage Hamilton, Some Weird Digital Watches, Plus a Few Killer Chronographs
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Seamaster Chronograph Ok, got a great one to start this week, a gorgeous vintage Omega Seamaster chronograph. This one dates to 1968 from the serial number on the movement. It has a tonneau style steel case that is 38mm wide, and is unpolished with nice crisp edges and the original brushed finish. Even the caseback Hippocampus medallion looks sharp. The original high dome acrylic crystal is in good shape, can’t see any cracks although it could use a polish. It is signed on the underside with the Omega logo as it should be. The reverse-panda three register dial is black with white subdials, and it looks to be perfect and original. White stick hands with lume and an orange sweep chono hand with black subdial hands complete the look. The large winding crown is also signed. This gem is powered by the famous and robust Omega caliber 861 movement, the same one used in the second generation of Omega Speedmasters. The movement is clean and runs and works well per the seller. The watch comes on the original bracelet, signed and in great shape. This watch is fabulous, and rare to see at auction. View auction here Dot Matrix Seiko Digital Watch This one was too cool to pass up,...
Monochrome
Introducing – Moritz Grossmann Hamatic Silver-Plated by Friction, For the Founder’s 200th Anniversary
The Hamatic is one of the more unusual watches from Moritz Grossmann, mainly because of how it handles automatic winding. Instead of a central rotor, it uses a hammer-style system, where a pendulum-like weight swings freely in both directions, constantly feeding energy to the movement. It is a more animated way of keeping the watch […]
Video
Seiko Self dater vs Seiko Sportsmatic Calendar 820 - Suwa vs. Daini
Deployant
New: Breva “Segreto di Lario” Meridian Gold
Breva releases a new version of their triple retrograde movement with the Meridian Gold, a reference with a matte powder-gold dial.
Deployant
Commentary on the new Dominique Renaud Pulse60
Dominique Renaud established yet another brand and releases his first watch - the Pulse60, with a movement beating at a slow 1 Hertz.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Gave Its Most Important Dive Watch An Overdue Refresh
The updated Seiko Marinemaster HBF001 and HBF002 models bring a new movement, ceramic bezel, and real upgrades. Here's what stands out.
Fratello
Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level
Last week, I reported on a new high-end Citizen Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition with a beautiful green washi (Japanese paper) dial. In the same week, Citizen also introduced two new watches powered by a brand-new Eco-Drive caliber. The new lightweight Photon models feature state-of-the-art dials that combine an intriguing design with the latest in Citizen’s […] Visit Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde
A closer look at the Breitling Navitimer Tribute to Concorde, exploring its movement, size, daily wear experience, design details, and how it compares to other modern chronographs.
Video