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Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech SJX Watches
Blancpain Scales Down Mar 12, 2025

Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech

Primarily vintage-inspired, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was given a modern makeover with the first “Tech” model launched in 2023. Now Blancpain follows up with the Fifty Fathoms Tech Ocean Commitment IV. While retaining the same lug-less case, the latest model is more compact and streamlined than its Tech predecessor, though it’s still 45 mm in diameter. And it features an “absolute black” dial - coated with a substance that absorbs 97% of incident light - ensuring maximum contrast for the luminescent hands and block-shaped hour markers. Like earlier Ocean Commitment editions, which were all vintage-inspired, this watch will help support the Blancpain’s marine conservation efforts, specifically the Blancpain x Sulubaaï Marine Research Center in Palawan, Philippines. Initial thoughts The new Fifty Fathoms Tech offers notable refinements over the earlier Tech Gombessa edition from two years ago. While the oversized, 47 mm Tech Gombessa was designed primarily as a specialised diving instrument, making it arguably too large for everyday wear, the new model adopts a more conventional dive watch dimensions. At 45 mm, it’s still large but more manageable, improving its wearability. The “absolute black” dial is also an interesting upgrade that makes sense in a dive watch given the need for legibility. While Blancpain doesn’t specify the details of the dial coating, it appears to be similar to Vantablack and other blacker-than-black coatings used by other ...

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A Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Shreve, Crump & Low SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Mar 11, 2025

A Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Shreve, Crump & Low

One of the oldest jewellers in the United States, Shreve, Crump & Low (SC&L;) has turned to Laurent Ferrier (LF) for the Classic Origin SC&L; x LF, a tasteful take on the brand’s manual-wind, time-only wristwatch. Boston-based SC&L; was founded in 1796, but the new Classic Origin adopts a restrained aesthetic in blue and bronze that’s a welcome departure from the sector dials and Breguet numerals that characterise many of LF’s recent editions. Available in either stainless steel or red gold, the SC&L; edition is LF116.01, a hand-wind calibre that’s LF’s most accessible movement but still features refined touches like a linear winding click in polished steel. Initial thoughts I like the fact that the SC&L; edition adopts LF’s signature style while avoiding overused elements like a sector layout in “salmon” or green. This instantly sets the SC&L; version apart from most other Classic Origin iterations. Furthermore, the combination of grained blue and satin gold on the dial is unusual but appealing as it gives the watch a contemporary feel that works well with LF’s low-key “Galet” style. And the discreet SC&L; logo above the seconds is an elegant touch. The SC&L; edition being a manual-wind Classic Origin is both a pro and a con. It’s an advantage because of affordability; the Classic Origin is LF’s most accessible timepiece; the steel SC&L; edition costs US$42,000. However, the calibre inside doesn’t have the same level of detail as the micro-rotor automat...

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Hermès Elegantly Facelifts Arceau Complications SJX Watches
Hermes Mar 11, 2025

Hermès Elegantly Facelifts Arceau Complications

Whimsical and graceful in the typical Hermès style, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune and Arceau Le Temps Voyageur are both unusual takes on familiar complications; the two were incidentally conceived with the aid of Chronode, a complications specialist. Hermès has reworked the palette for both models, most notably with a two-tone case for the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune. This returns as a set of three watches, each featuring a dial made of a specific type of meteorite, namely Blue Grey Moon, Vesta, and Erg Chech. All three are housed in a 43 mm case with contrast-colour lugs. The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, on the other hand, is offered separately in two guises: 41 mm in white gold, or 38 mm in rose gold with diamonds. The Arceau L’Heure de la Lune three-piece set Initial thoughts Among Hermès’ whimsical complications, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune stands out as an unconventional and interesting reinterpretation of the simple date-and-moon-phase watch. Unlike traditional moon-phase displays, this employs mobile counters that orbit the dial over a 59-day cycle to reveal the current lunar phase. It’s a large watch and a little thick, but still elegant thanks to the design. The new variants look more modern than their predecessors thanks to the two-tone cases and meteorite dials that sport subtle colour accents that are typically Hermes. The main downside is the fact that the three are delivered as a set, which not only means the cost is high – the set retails for ...

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Introducing: The Biver Automatique Japan Edition - Minimalism And Maximalism Collide Fratello
Mar 11, 2025

Introducing: The Biver Automatique Japan Edition - Minimalism And Maximalism Collide

When Biver launched to great fanfare in 2023, the debut watch displayed watchmaking maximalism at its finest. Father and son Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver must have asked themselves, “What if we turn everything up to eleven?” The young brand’s second model, the Automatique, dialed things down somewhat. Still, it looked distinctly intricate and truly Biver-esque. […] Visit Introducing: The Biver Automatique Japan Edition - Minimalism And Maximalism Collide to read the full article.

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Certina Watches Review: History and Highlights from the Modern Collect Teddy Baldassarre
Certina Mar 10, 2025

Certina Watches Review: History and Highlights from the Modern Collect

Certina is a watch brand that may be fairly new to you, especially if you live in the United States, where distribution has been limited to non-existent over the past several decades. In actuality, however, Certina is among the oldest Swiss watch brands currently in operation and today represents an appealing and perhaps underrated option in the arena of stylish sports watches that are solidly built yet priced affordably. The Kurth Brothers, Grana, and the Dirty Dozen Certina has its origins in 1888, when two Swiss brothers, Adolf and Alfred Kurth, set up a watchmaking workshop in an annex to their family home in the town of Grenchen (above). Initially, the brothers made movements and parts that they supplied to other watch companies in the region, but by 1906 they were making enough of their own complete timepieces that they introduced a brand name: Grana, which was a shortened version of the Latin word “Granatus,” referring to Grenchen. The early Grana watches found success, but for several years the Kurth brothers continued to also make and supply movements to other companies; the name “Certina” - another Latin-derived word, from “certus,” for “sure” or “certain” - began appearing on the company’s timepieces throughout the 1930s. The name, which was also easier to pronounce than “Grana” in more languages, was registered in 1933 and eventually became the company’s sole name in 1949.  Few Grana watches are remembered as milestones today, i...

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What I Discovered on My Visit to The Aristo-Vollmer Factory Worn & Wound
Mar 10, 2025

What I Discovered on My Visit to The Aristo-Vollmer Factory

I recently visited the Aristo Vollmer watch and bracelet manufacturer in the Black Forest town of Pforzheim. Aristo-Vollmer was founded 14 years ago as a merger of two well-known companies from the towns of Birkenfeld and Pforzheim. After three generations in the possession of the founding Epple family, the watch manufacturer Aristo Watch was sold in 1998 to Hansjörg Vollmer, a member of the founding family of watch bracelet manufacturer Vollmer, which has been associated with Aristo since 1927. Hansjörg Vollmer is a grandson of the founder of the metal bracelet manufactory Vollmer (Vollmer, Evvo, New Line), which was founded in 1922 and had maintained business relations with Aristo since 1927.  After World War II, the production of bracelets moved from Birkenfeld to Pforzheim where it is still located next to the Pforzheim train station. Since 2005, the Aristo-Vollmer’s portfolio includes watch brands (Aristo, Aristomatic, Aristocrat, Messerschmitt, Vollmer, Bellana, Aristella, and Erbprinz) as well as bracelets (stainless steel, titanium, carbon), buckles, and deployant clasps. The bracelets are used for its own watch brands, and supplied to retailers, as well as outside the group. Recently Aristo added Klaus Jakob’s Jacques Etoile brand, which we’ll come back to a little later. Hansjörg is an intriguing personality, very driven yet approachable. He is a high-speed fanatic and professionally races BMW motorcycles, and even custom builds them upon request. I att...

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Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet Fratello
Rolex Sky-Dweller Mar 10, 2025

Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet

Honest question: why do people like the Sky-Dweller? Is it because the travel watch with the Saros annual calendar and Ring Command is a complicated piece of watchmaking? Is it the characteristic dial layout, perhaps? Or is it because if you wear this 42mm watch in precious metal, everybody within a hundred-meter radius will know […] Visit Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet to read the full article.

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - RJ’s Picks From Heuer, Breitling, Omega, and Rolex Fratello
Breitling Omega Mar 10, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - RJ’s Picks From Heuer, Breitling, Omega, and Rolex

Our managing editor, Nacho, asked us to choose our favorite vintage watches under €5K. First, we need to define what “vintage” means. There is no clear universal definition in the watch industry, but the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie once used 20 years or older as a guideline. To some purists, a vintage needs to […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - RJ’s Picks From Heuer, Breitling, Omega, and Rolex to read the full article.

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Breitling’s Flagship Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Steel SJX Watches
Breitling s Flagship Navitimer B19 Mar 10, 2025

Breitling’s Flagship Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Steel

The flagship watch of Breitling’s best-known watch, the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is now more affordable. The latest iteration with an “ice blue” dial retains the specs of the pink gold 140th anniversary edition launched last year, but trades precious metal for steel. Unlike last year’s limited edition, the new steel model is regular production and is priced under US$30,000, over Breitling’s traditional sweet spot on the price spectrum but still half the retail of the anniversary edition. Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar_Ref. PB1920251C1P1_RGB Initial thoughts The new Navitimer B19 keeps it affordable, relatively speaking, by combining Breitling’s excellent in-house B01 movement with the tried-and-tested Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module. The resulting watch is thick at almost 15 mm high, but combines several complications in Breitling’s iconic slide-rule pilot’s chronograph. While the watch is pricier than most of Breitling’s offerings, it is one of the few perpetual calendar chronographs in this price range. Most of such watches tend to be a lot more expensive, although Austrian independent watchmaker Habring² offers similar for less in keeping with its focus on affordable complications. Value proposition The new B19 retains the same basic specs as its precious metal counterpart. The stainless steel case measures 43 mm in diameter and 14.94 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 30 m, it features the Navit...

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Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa 37mm - A Sweet Spot In The Market Is Now Also A Sweet Spot In Size Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa 37mm - Mar 8, 2025

Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa 37mm - A Sweet Spot In The Market Is Now Also A Sweet Spot In Size

The Citizen Tsuyosa lineup has always impressed us as an absolute sweet spot in the market. I struggle to think of any watch offering more for the price. The Tsuyosa collection, then, can make you think twice about anything fancier. So what if you want all of that but in a more classical, elegant size? […] Visit Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa 37mm - A Sweet Spot In The Market Is Now Also A Sweet Spot In Size to read the full article.

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Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Daytona Rolex Chronographs Fratello
Rolex Chronographs Another Friday another Mar 7, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Daytona Rolex Chronographs

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re highlighting the best pre-Daytona Rolex chronographs. While most watch fans know of such models’ existence, it’s not something we focus on often. This is for obvious reasons. The legacy of the Daytona has become one of the industry’s greatest success stories, so that is where the focus is. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Daytona Rolex Chronographs to read the full article.

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Lex’s Gold Picks From Audemars Piguet, IWC, And Minerva Fratello
Audemars Piguet IWC Mar 7, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Lex’s Gold Picks From Audemars Piguet, IWC, And Minerva

I need gold. My watch collection lacks precious metal, so with that in mind, I started looking for gold watches on a budget of €5K. Please enjoy my gold choices from Audemars Piguet, IWC, and Minerva. And yes, my colleagues told me I cheated by choosing the steel-cased Minerva, but I responded that the gold […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Lex’s Gold Picks From Audemars Piguet, IWC, And Minerva to read the full article.

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Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Mar 7, 2025

Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon

Drawn from a Russian fairy tale about a bun coming to life, the Kolobok 2 arrives a year after Konstantin Chaykin revealed the original Kolobok. Like its predecessors in the Wristmon collection, this features a dial inspired by the titular character’s face. But the Kolobok 2 marks a departure from the first version in two notable ways: it is now a regular production watch rather than a limited edition, and it features a La Joux-Perret base movement instead of an ETA. Initial thoughts The Kolobok 2 is the latest of many Wristmon models, arguably too many to date. However, the fact that this is a regular production model, as opposed to a limited edition, is a positive development since it indicates the brand is leaving behind the multiple-edition approach. That aside, the watch itself is an upgrade over earlier versions. Although the new Kolobok 2 has the same simple functions arranged as a face, it is powered by a new movement based on the La Joux-Perret G200, replacing the modified ETA 2892-A2 used in preceding entry-level Wristmon models. This calibre is a step forward for the Wristmon model. Amongst other things that put it ahead of the ETA 2892, the G200 sports a a full balance bridge with a free-sprung balance. Another wristmon The Kolobok 2 retains the same dimensions and technical specifications as its predecessors, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 12.2 mm in thickness. As with all Wristmons, it features a notched bezel with 12 screws and a case that’s predominan...

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Hands-On With The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC Mar 6, 2025

Hands-On With The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV

Ask a random watch enthusiast about the great diving watches in history, and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms will be on the tip of many tongues. In 2023, Blancpain celebrated the 70th anniversary of its legendary Fifty Fathoms in three acts. With a trio of completely different releases, the brand gave us a good idea of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV to read the full article.

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Tissot Introduces the PRC 100 Collection with a New Solar Powered Movement Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Spring Drive comes Mar 6, 2025

Tissot Introduces the PRC 100 Collection with a New Solar Powered Movement

There are a number of watchmaking technologies that are tough to appreciate until you’ve actually spent considerable time with a watch. Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive comes to mind, especially if you’re inclined to constantly check your watch’s accuracy. The consistency over time of a Spring Drive movement is kind of mindblowing if you’re used to “normal” mechanical watches. Similarly, high accuracy quartz, from any brand, is tough to wrap your arms around until you’ve gone months without needing a reset because your watch is keeping time to within a second or two. And ultra-thin watches deserve a mention here as well. A watch that you literally forget you’re wearing because it’s so thin can be a special thing when properly executed.  But in terms of actually making your day to day life easier, there are few technologies that match the practicality of solar powered timekeeping. There are a bunch of brands that offer watches with solar movements, and for some it’s really become their stock-in-trade. Today, Tissot expands their solar offerings with the new PRC 100 Solar collection, bringing an aging collection up to date with some modern tech that should have broad appeal to both the mass market and the most sensible, practical, enthusiasts among us.  The PRC 100 was originally introduced in the mid 2000s and is easily identified by its dodecagonal bezel. PRC is an acronym that stands for “Precise, Robust, and Classic,” which seems like the right canv...

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Anoma Introduces the A01 Slate SJX Watches
Mar 6, 2025

Anoma Introduces the A01 Slate

Having made its debut last summer, London-based Anoma returns with the A1 Slate, an entry level watch that punches above its weight in terms of design. Inspired by a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French designer Charlotte Perriand, the A1 Slate executes the mid-century aesthetic with aplomb. Over the past few years we’ve seen a number of unusually shaped watches come to market, perhaps as a cultural reaction to the proliferation of classical designs that otherwise dominate. Among these, the Anoma A1 stands out for its commitment to value and its undiluted form. Initial thoughts When the Anoma A1 debuted with the First Series, my first reaction was that it was simply a triangular watch. Closer examination revealed a number of intriguing details, like the offset rotation of the crystal relative to the case. The A1 Slate takes things up a notch, with an attractive grooved dial that brings the design to life. The A1 is all about its triangular stainless steel case, which is roughly 39 mm in diameter. The curved edges call to mind a Wankel rotory engine, and give the watch a pebble-like presence. A slim leather strap fits into hidden lugs, allowing the watch’s shape to remain undiluted. Like its predecessor, the A1 Slate is powered by the Sellita SW100, a diminutive automatic movement that was chosen for its ability to fit within the compact triangular case. The movement is common and industrial, which should give potential buyers confidence in its ability to be...

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War Correspondent’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 Surfaces In New Zealand Fratello
Rolex GMT-Master 1675 Surfaces Mar 6, 2025

War Correspondent’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 Surfaces In New Zealand

If only watches could tell stories… This particular watch, a Rolex GMT-Master 1675 from 1968, would have a multitude of stories to share. The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675 we’re looking at today belonged to the late New Zealand photojournalist and camera operator Derek McKendry, who spent eight years covering the Vietnam War for the Australian […] Visit War Correspondent’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 Surfaces In New Zealand to read the full article.

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