Deployant
Review: Rare watches, The Collector’s View: The IWC Ingieneur Ref. 3508
We begin our series of amagnetic watches with the IWC Ingieneur Ref. 3508, aka 500,000 A/m model. Here is our Collector's view of this rare watch.
Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)
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Revolution
The 35-year Story of the Pasha de Cartier
We trace the 35-year story of the sporty round watch with a crown-cap and assured sense of style that is Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier.
Quill & Pad
Resonance Watches Compared: F.P. Journe vs. Armin Strom vs. Beat Haldimann, And The Pros And Cons Of Each
Many people believe resonance to be very rare, when in fact every single timekeeping device (yes, even quartz) is a resonant mechanism. But clocks and watches featuring resonance as we generally understand it in watchmaking are few and far between. In the last few decades, less than a handful of highly skilled watchmakers have taken up the challenge of creating a resonance watch. Here, Joshua Munchow looks at the pros and cons of the different approaches taken by the three leaders in this technology.
SJX Watches
Linde Werdelin Introduces the Oktopus MoonLite
One of the most established newer brands in the sports watch space, Linde Werdelin was founded 14 years ago and made its name with mechanical watches featuring a removable digital module with dedicated functions for activities like diving and climbing. Now entirely focused on purely mechanical watches, the brand’s latest is a dive watch with an unusual complication – the limited-edition Oktopus MoonLite. Based on the existing Oktopus Moon, the MoonLite is distinguished by the case material, which is made of Alloy Linde Werdelin. Initial thoughts The Oktopus MoonLite is very much in the usual Linde Werdelin style, which is a futuristic, aggressive look that brings to mind watches like the Grand Seiko SBGA405 Godzilla 65th Anniversary and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept. Though large at 44 mm wide, the watch will no doubt be light thanks to the case material. And the color of the case goes exceptionally well with that of the dial, which results in an avant-garde watch that is also the most legible of the Oktopus Moon models to date. Priced at a little over US$14,000 – quite a lot of money for what it is – the Oktopus MoonLite perhaps justifiably priced considering the limited production and proprietary case material. Nonetheless, the bold styling and “indie” status of Linde Werdelin make the MoonLite an unusual proposition – an oversized, contemporary sports watch from an independent brand, which will appeal to collectors who enjoy luxury-sports watch...
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches in Singapore
Vacheron Constantin is staging an exhibition in Singapore dedicated to its sports watches spanning the 20th century history. Best known for the Overseas sports watch, now in its third generation, Vacheron Constantin has curated a compact selection of six timepieces illustrating the development of the sports timekeeper. An 1998 magazine advertisement for the first-generation Overseas The exhibition starts with watches from the 1940s, including a chronometer pocket watch in the style of military deck watches. But the highlight, at least from a design perspective, is the 222, the brand’s first luxury-sports watch. Designed by Jorg Hysek, the 222 made its debut in 1977, the year of the brand’s 222th anniversary. Featuring a notched bezel and integrated bracelet, it was very much in the style of the decade. The 222 line up The watches are on display at the brand’s boutique at the Marina Bay Sands casino-resort, which is also marking its 10th anniversary. Exhibition information The Origin of Vacheron Constantin Sports Elegance In Watchmaking July 13 to August 24, 2020 Vacheron Constantin Marina Bay Sands Boutique 2 Bayfront Avenue #B2M-238 Singapore 018972 Opening Hours: 11:30 am to 8:00 pm, Monday to Sunday
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t like your Granny’s glasses…
The summer watch is a category as important as pilot’s watch or doctor’s watch, but without the historically derived definition that comes from a serious professional context. A loose definition might include a watch that needs to be robust, waterproof and easy to read after five Aperol Spritzes, but it also needs to be fun … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t like your Granny’s glasses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Watches & Wonders Shanghai to Happen September 2020
With its Geneva debut in April 2020 cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the watch fair once known as SIHH is moving to Shanghai. Its organisers have just announced Watches & Wonders Shanghai will take place from September 9-13, 2020 at West Bund Art Center. W&W; Shanghai will see only 11 brands take part, down from 30 at the Geneva event. The exhibiting brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, and Vacheron Constantin – all owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont – as well as independently-owned brands Parmigiani Fleurier and Purnell. Like the original fair in Geneva, the Shanghai event will be invite-only, and will include new product launches, talks, as well as watchmaking classes. Alongside the physical exhibition in Shanghai, W&W; will also unveil the new products on its website. With the Chinese watch market now in the midst of a sharp upturn post-pandemic – evidenced in the results of both Richemont and the Swatch Group – China is likely the single largest national market for luxury watches that is operating close to normal, making the migration of the event from Geneva to Shanghai eminently logical.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Naoya Hida & Co. NH Type 1B
The very first model from Japanese watch maven Naoya Hida is packed with his ideals.
Hodinkee
Business News: Swatch Group Gets Green Light In Mechanical Movements Case
ETA now can operate freely in Switzerland's more competitive mechanical movement market, COMCO says.
Deployant
New: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife with Editorial Commentary
Jaeger-LeCoultre and MR PORTER announces the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch which is specially adapted for new movie - The King’s Man.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085
Perhaps the most recognisable Panerai is the Luminor Marina 44 mm. A modern-day creation inspired by a vintage military-issue watch, the Luminor Marina was introduced in 1993, and a decade later became one of the watches that kickstarted the fashion for bigger watches. While the Luminor Marina was historically all about black dials for a no-nonsense military look, Panerai has been injected more colour into the line up for a civilian-friendly style. The new Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085 – blu mare translate as “blue sea” – retains the traditional design codes of the Luminor plus a fashionable blue dial. Initial thoughts While earlier Luminor models like the PAM1663 and the PAM1033 have had blue dials, but the new Luminor is arguably the cleanest, harking back to the entry-level Luminor Marina “Logo” of about a decade ago. The blue is metallic, subdued and finished with a radial-brushed finish that’ll definitely catch the light nicely. A colour that’s been in vogue for a couple of years, the blue dial gives the Luminor Blu Mare a slightly more elegant and contemporary feel than the typical Panerai, a useful quality for someone who likes the functional Panerai design but prefers lighter colour palette. The design, however, is strictly traditional. With the vintage originals designed as functional instruments for navy frogmen of the Second World War, the new Luminor is expectedly utilitarian, with large, eminently simple hands and indices – very much the ...
Deployant
IWC 3751 Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Rattrapante
This week we review a watch from my personal collection, the IWC 3751 – Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Rattrapante in platinum. IWC 3751 Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Rattrapante The watch is the 10th year anniversary re-edition to the original 1985 Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3750. IWC 3750 was produced during a majorRead More
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red
H. Moser & Cie. debuted its inaugural sporty watch in 2015 with the Pioneer Centre Seconds (and followed up recently with the even more sporty Streamliner). Now Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red with a red fumé dial joins the line up. Both the colour and name are inspired by the original Swiss Mad watch of 2017, which took its colours from the Swiss national flag. Initial thoughts As is typical of Moser’s fumé finish, the dial is immediately gripping. The graduated, smoked finish results in a colour that varies in shade depending on lighting and perspective, which adds a lot of visual appeal. Though graduated-colour dials were not invented by Moser, it has become synonymous with the brand. Moser has presented fumé dials in green and many shades of blue, but bold red finish is perhaps the most enticing to date. Although the Pioneer is technically a sports watch, the elegant styling of the dial does not translate well onto such the large, almost-43 mm case, which definitely wears and looks large on the wrist. I would have preferred a case of say, 38 mm, large enough to be a sports watch, while still complimenting the dial. Minimalism While the colour is striking, the watch itself is minimalist and no-frills in the usual Moser style, displaying only the time without any superfluous elements on the dial. Still, the dial manages to incorporate several details that add to the appeal, including faceted markers, open-worked hands, and luminous dots on the flange. De...
Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier’s New Tonda GT Line
Parmigiani Fleurier refreshes its Tonda collection to create a sportier, everyday watch, and announces two new variants. An automatic time only watch called the Tonda GT and a chronograph known as the Tondagraph GT. Press Release Tonda GT Line – design cues Parmigiani Fleurier is proud to announce the new Tonda GT. The Maison’s dressRead More
WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko SBGM221 review
The nature of time. At first glance, the phrase reads as if some form of pseudo philosophical jargon, the kind of slogan born in the Grand Seiko PR departments internship program. That is, until you hold a Grand Seiko in your hands, until you feel the piece and experience the brands physical manifestation of their philosophy. For the past week or so, I have been taking a look at the Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT. A watch from the Elegance line of Grand Seiko, and for that week I have found myself both enamoured and underwhelmed by the nature of this timepiece. As a brand, Grand Seiko prides itself in their craftsmanship, they have been heralded for the famed Ziratsu polish, and admired for the intricacy and complexity of their dials. So it should be noted right away, the finishing and construction of the SBGM221 is first class. The watch has clearly been held to a very high standard during production, nothing is out of place, nothing is even remotely undercooked. The SBGM221 spans a precise 39.5mm in diameter by an equally precise 13.7mm thick. Lug to lug the watch measures 46.3mm, this is achieved by the use of dramatically yet elegantly down curving lugs which hug the piece on to your wrist. I have a wrist size of 17.5cm and found the piece was right in the sweet spot of comfort for me personally, the watch could comfortably be worn down to as little as 15cm due primarily to the curvature of the lugs. The case of the SBGM221 is where I found the most wonder within the watc...
SJX Watches
Up Close: De Bethune DB28XP
Despite being only 18 years old, De Bethune has managed to create a surprisingly large number of unique and emblematic case designs, along with a slew of complications and movement innovations. But its signature case design is probably the DB28, a large, thin watch with a pair of sprung, pivoted lugs. For the 10th anniversary of the DB28, De Bethune has slimmed it down to create the DB28XP. Significantly thinner and slightly more wearable, the DB28XP is still instantly recognisable for what it is. Dial detail of the DB28XP Starry Sky Initial thoughts The DB28XP is a smartly conceived watch because it manages to capture everything that made the DB28 special, except in a thinner case that feels more refined and is clearly more elegant. The original DB28 wasn’t excessively thick, but the DB28XP is substantially thinner, thin enough it feels a little like a sci-fi dress watch. The DB28XP wears sleek and light, with the “floating” lugs hugging the wrist comfortably, while the aesthetic is clearly quintessential De Bethune, which means polished or heat-blued titanium. And though it’s slimmer than the original, the DB28XP is still executed to the same level of quality, down to the smallest of details. The teeth of the barrel ratchet wheel of the movement are polished, for instance, while the hands are either polished titanium or pink gold, depending in the version. The original DB28 (top) and the DB28XP But the DB28XP is a little fancier than the original in design, with...
Deployant
New: Kudoke 2 Nocturne
Small independent watchmaker from Glashütte introduces his second watch with his own movement. Here is the release information on the Kudoke 2 Nocturne.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001
After an extended absence, Patek Philippe’s signature perpetual calendar chronograph is once again available in yellow gold with the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001. The new watch joins the platinum and rose gold versions currently in the catalogue, and is the first perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow gold since the ref. 5970J was discontinued in 2009. Initial thoughts The very first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph powered by an in-house movement, the ref. 5270 was introduced in 2011 but remains under appreciated, primarily because it isn’t one of the earlier perpetual calendar chronograph that are regarded as “iconic” (namely the refs. 5970, 3970, 2499 and 1518). But the ref. 5270 is excellent, or at least very good, in most tangible aspects. It’s a well-made watch with a smartly-constructed, modern movement inside robust-yet-elegant case of that sort that Patek Philippe excels at. And functionally it is also excellent, especially with the slightly larger calendar windows. Admittedly the movement finishing is not quite artisanal, but it is on par with other high-end brands that produce watches in substantial numbers, like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. It does costs more than what the competition charges for an equivalent watch, but the value of the Patek Philippe brand is tremendous. The ref. 5270J adds the option of a far more classical look to the line up. The combination of a silver dial and yellow gold case is the ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #183: Why Do Watches Make Us Happy?
Watch collecting doesn’t exactly make a whole lotta sense - most of the time. What we can be sure of as watch collectors is that watch collecting, at the very least, elicits happiness in some way. Why is that?
SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT
A star of contemporary watchmaking as a result of its consistent innovation in unusual, lightweight materials, Richard Mille watches have a unique style that is instantly recognisable. A bestseller that’s arguably the brand’s signature watch, the RM 11 is large, technical-looking, and now in its fifth generation. The RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT is the latest to join the RM 11 line-up, which was first launched over a decade now but regularly face-lifted. Limited to 140 pieces and powered by the same RMAC3 calibre found in its predecessors, the RM 11-05 continues Richard Mille’s material-centric design with a case in grey cermet. Initial thoughts Richard Mille watches are unfailing bold, and often extravagant; the RM 11-05 sticks to that formula and is immediately identifiable. It is a modest, incremental change over earlier RM 11 variants, so it doesn’t offer substantial novelty. But for a fan of the brand and its trademark style, it is very much the traditional Richard Mille look and feel. Blending metal and ceramic The RM 11-05 is novel in its case material – surprising since the brand seems to have used every conceivable modern material – which is grey cermet case, a first for Richard Mille. A contraction of ceramic and metal, cermet is a composite of ceramic and metal alloy, resulting in a material that combines the properties of the two. Cermet is more commonly employed in ballistic protection and aerospace components. Although the m...
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication: A Case Study In Design
The 2020 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication is a perfect example of using design to take an already great watch to an entirely new level. Joshua Munchow takes a deep dive into what makes this highly complicated model so, so good.
Deployant
Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph is arguably the most captivating piece in the new Master Control series. The case is sharper than before in finishing, with more straight edges as opposed to rounded sides. Accompanied with the easily patinated strap, there is a certain sportiness to the otherwise classical watch. While the triple calendar may be seen as a budget calendar, the overall merit to the watch is its versatility.
Time+Tide
The top 5 Omega James Bond watches of all time as chosen by you
Editor’s note: Earlier this week, we asked a question on Instagram stories, what is your favourite Omega Bond watch from the last 25 years? Imma jump in here just to say, uh, wut? Where is the Spectre Seamaster 300 Limited Edition (my clear favourite Bond watch)? Where is Pierce’s watches? Any of them! It seems you … ContinuedThe post The top 5 Omega James Bond watches of all time as chosen by you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: James Murdoch to Become Major Shareholder in Baselworld Owner
Having been pummelled by the COVID-19 pandemic and the implosion of Baselworld, the watch fair’s owner MCH Group has just announced a CHF104.5m rescue led by the canton of Basel and James Murdoch. But the crown jewel is not the Baselworld watch and jewellery fair, but Art Basel, which is undoubtedly the prize Mr Murdoch is after. As part of the rescue, the canton of Basel will convert its CHF30m loan to MCH into equity, with the balance being made up of a rights issue priced at a 25% discount to the 30-day average for MCH shares, which hit a peak of CHF80 in 2017 and traded around CHF17 in recent weeks. Through his family investment office Lupa Systems, Mr Murdoch will underwrite the rights issue, subscribing to all rights not taken up by other shareholders. At the same time, the canton of Basel and its regional bank have extended the repayment period for outstanding loans to MCH, while a bond offering is planned in the near future. Beyond shoring up the finances of MCH, the exercise will leaving Mr Murdoch with 30-44% of MCH Group, along with three board seats. Restrictions on shareholder voting rights will also be abolished, removing the outsized voting power of the cantons of Basel and Zurich, once the dominant influences in MCH. A long-term investment Mr Murdoch is the younger son of Rupert Murdoch, perhaps the most powerful figure in the broadcast and news business in the Western world. Recent newspaper reports have said the younger Murdoch was negotiating with MC...
WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue Review
Earlier this month, Tudor released to the world their latest Black Bay creation; the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight ‘Navy Blue’ (Ref 79030B-0001). We covered this much anticipated timepiece briefly upon its release, but now, we will take an in-depth look into what this watch is really about. For the newcomers to the world of horology, you might be asking, why is there such an aura around the Black Bay Fifty-Eight that draws people in? To answer this, we need to go back into Tudor’s history with dive watches and how the Black Bay Fifty-Eight first came about. Tudor released its first dive watch in 1954, which would incidentally set the brand on a new path to becoming iconic for dive watches. The first Tudor that was released was the Oyster Price Submariner reference 7922. This model was designed with some substantial criteria which included having exceptional durability, reliability, precision and waterproofness, all the while still being moderately affordable. The Oyster Price Submariner reference 7922 after its release became a favourite in the watch industry and positioned itself as an instrument of choice for professionals. Tudor’s dive watches over the next 66 years would evolve with new technologies and materials emerging, updating the movements along the way as well. Back in 2012, Tudor first launched the Black Bay collection, which is essentially the modern interpretation of the the brand’s iconic Submariner style design. The original Oyster Price Submari...
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection
Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independents and the Esoteric at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Taking place on July 10, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X is the one of the first watch auctions in Hong Kong in 2020, a sign of the much-delayed auction calendar due to the pandemic. But the Phillips catalogue is still 269 lots strong, with a little bit of everything. We took a look at some of the notable complicated watches last week, including the magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph that’s a strong value buy in uber-complications. Now, we’ll take a look at some of the timepieces by independent watchmakers as well as a handful of interesting, esoteric, and well-priced watches. You can find the rest of the catalogue here. Lot 806 – Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” This sits squarely in the category of weird-but-cool watches. Extremely large at 44 mm, with massive lugs and an even larger crown guard, the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” is a dive watch rated to 3,000 m – three-thousand metres, or 9,800 feet – with a sharply finished, tourbillon-equipped movement. The combination is paradoxical, and slightly silly, but the watch has a peculiar charm, no doubt helped by its affordability (with a low estimate a little under US$20,000). Made in 2006, a time when diving tourbillons were fashionable and when Girard-Perregaux was still a family-run firm owned by the Macalusos – the certificate for the watch is signed by the late Luigi “Gino” Macaluso – the Sea Hawk tourbillon was a limited edition of 32 w...
SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces the Type 1 Slim X
Founded only a decade ago, Ressence has already left an indelible impression on watchmaking. Lauded for a design philosophy that is centred on legibility, wearability and intuitive function, the brand’s unusual perspective is thanks to its founder Benoît Mintiens, an industrial designer by profession. To mark its 10th year, Ressence has debuted the Type 1 Slim X, the first of four watches in the commemorative Collection X – “X” being a Roman “10”. Limited to 40 watches, the new watch is essentially identical to the standard Type 1 Slim, but face-lifted with an intriguing dial in a single shade of olive green but finished with contrasting surfaces to achieve a two-tone effect. The remaining Collection X watches will be dressed in a similar shade of green. Initial thoughts I have long been fascinated by Ressence and its watches. The first time I laid eyes on a Ressence, I assumed that it was just an electronic watch with a high-pixel density display; the dial on it was truly flat. When I found out what it was – the effect was due to the oil-filled time display chamber – surprise was an understatement. They are in a class of their own in terms of design, and are, in fact, great examples of “postmodern” mechanical watchmaking. The dark olive dial on the anniversary Type 1 Slim is a first for the brand. The colour is attractive but not as widely used as I would like, with the exception of military-style timepieces, which this is definitely not. To see i...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097
Breguet is one of the grandest names in watchmaking, and mostly makes watches that are rooted in its history. The aptly named Tradition exudes, well, tradition. Modelled on the souscription pocket watch created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the wide-ranging collection has been gently modernised in recent years. The newly-announced Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 continues that trend, with a dark blue guilloché dial against a grey movement. Initial thoughts This version of the Tradition 7097 is possibly my favourite yet, mostly because of the off-centre dial in blue. Engine-turned by hand, the blue dial is striking against the monochromatic movement. And it looks especially appealing when compared against the earlier versions that have plainer and more conventional silvered dials, which offer less contrast against the movement. But as with all other Tradition watches, there’s a nit to pick here: the serial number plaque on the dial makes it look a bit cluttered, especially since the dial is small to begin with. One solution would be to put the serial numbers beside the Breguet logo, as done on the female Tradition Dame 7038. And while I like the retrograde seconds, its position feels awkward as it cuts into the sub-dial. Though intersecting indicators are a feature in some historical Breguet pocket watches, the face of the Tradition is a bit too small to accommodate it comfortably. The white gold case is in classic Breguet style a delicately-fluted ...
SJX Watches
John McGonigle Debuts with the Oileán H-B1
Hailing from Ireland’s most famous watchmaking family, John McGonigle is best known for being one half of the two brothers behind McGonigle Watches (and another brother is the chief instructor at the world-class watch school in Cambodia). Having decided to strike out on his own last year – an amicable parting resulting from logistical challenges of working with his brother who is based in Switzerland – Mr McGonigle has just launched his own brand, Oileán, Gaelic for “island”, a nod to his home of Ireland. Pronounced “ill-awn”, the brand is making its debut with the Oileán H-B1, a triple-calendar chronograph powered by a new-old-stock Valjoux 88 movement. John McGonigle Initial thoughts Well regarded by collectors and peers, Mr McGonigle’s first watch under his new brand has a vintage movement inside a titanium case. It’s a manageable 40 mm in diameter, but slightly thick at 14.2 mm high, an inevitable consequence of the Valjoux 88. While the Valjoux 88 is not novel – it was widely used in the past – the calibre has been reworked a high standard. That includes several bridges and steel parts made from scratch, as well as hand finishing of all components. Because it is a triple-calendar chronograph “I’ve tried to apply the same rigour to this watch as I used to for the high complications I worked on in the past,” says Mr McGonigle. Going by Mr McGonigle’s past work it is no doubt done very well. The look is modern – the dial is smoked sa...