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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part III SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 31, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part III

An outlandish concept that originally sprang from the mind of Carole Forestier Kasapi, the Ulysse Nardin Freak of 2001 was perfected by Dr Ludwig Oechslin and then made reality thanks to the advent of silicon in watchmaking. Lightweight and magnetism resistant, silicon was used for the escape wheels but that was only the beginning of the story. [This story, the third and final instalment in the series, details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor. The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement.] Silicon, Silicium, Silinvar Now used interchangeably with silicon, silicium is actually French for “silicon”, but now it is also used as the trade name for the proprietary form of silicon used by Ulysse Nardin for movement components, namely silicon with a hard oxide outer layer that gives the material thermocompensating properties. Silicium was developed by Swiss scientific institute Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique (CSEM) in collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. Notably, the material is also known as Silinvar, which resulted from a separated but related CSEM project backed by a consortium made up of Rolex, Patek Philippe and Swatch Group. As a ...

The Roundup: Formex, Rolex, Timex, and Beyond Worn & Wound
Formex Rolex Timex Mar 31, 2024

The Roundup: Formex, Rolex, Timex, and Beyond

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we go heavy on the watches by highlighting the hot Formex Essence Sector made in partnership with Worn & Wound. For the retro-inclined, we appreciate the timelessness of a mid-century Rolex Oyster Perpetual date and the whimsy of the new Timex Ironman collab with The James Brand. Pioneer Carry and Seiko round things out with special gear and new stopwatches. Let’s get right into it! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great ...

Remembering My Grandfather Through His Watches: Part 1 - An Elgin 6703E And Hamilton Yorktowne From The Early ’40s Fratello
Hamilton Yorktowne From Mar 30, 2024

Remembering My Grandfather Through His Watches: Part 1 - An Elgin 6703E And Hamilton Yorktowne From The Early ’40s

Since 2024 began, I have wanted nothing more than a chance to talk and laugh with my grandfather again. This year is the 18th since his passing, which was also half of my life ago now. Perhaps because of that, I feel as if I could finally comprehend and appreciate all of his insight and […] Visit Remembering My Grandfather Through His Watches: Part 1 - An Elgin 6703E And Hamilton Yorktowne From The Early ’40s to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the New Dune Video Game, Updated GR Cameras from Ricoh, and Stephen King’s Carrie Turns 50 Worn & Wound
Mar 30, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the New Dune Video Game, Updated GR Cameras from Ricoh, and Stephen King’s Carrie Turns 50

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Springsteen Comes to the Big Screen  From The Bear, to the Boss. News broke this week that Jeremy Allen White, who has shot to stardom for his role as the chef Carmie in The Bear, is in talks to play Bruce Springsteen in a film about the making of Nebraska, his stripped down, acoustic album released in 1982. Various movie projects covering Springsteen’s life and career have been floated for years, but this time a star being attached to the project along with a director (Scott Cooper) has Hollywood buzzing that this one could take off. Read more at Pitchfork here. The Kinds of Kindness Trailer  OK, this is how you cut a trailer. Hot on the heels of Poor Things, filmmaker Yorgos Lanthimos and Emma Stone are back later this year with a follow up: Kinds of Kindness. What’s it about? We have no idea, but the stylish trailer set to “Sweet Dreams” and featuring glimpses of each member of the all star cast (including Willem Dafoe and Margaret Qualley, also featured in Poor Things) is evocative enough to have us pretty excited to see what Lanthimos has cooked up. Trailers too often giv...

The Unintentional Watch Collector: An Unplanned Watch Collection Spanning Eight Decades Quill & Pad
Casio ns Mar 30, 2024

The Unintentional Watch Collector: An Unplanned Watch Collection Spanning Eight Decades

Colin Alexander Smith never set out to collect watches; in fact, he suspects that deep down he aspires to being a one-watch guy. He has only bought himself a new watch on two occasions in his life. Nevertheless, through a combination of new and used purchases, gifts, hand-me-downs, and inherited pieces, Colin has managed to accumulate a selection of watches that rather neatly spans eight consecutive decades of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Find out what is behind each of these watches remaining in Colin's collection right here.

Just A Minute With The Citizen Aqualand Worn & Wound
Citizen Aqualand “Just Mar 29, 2024

Just A Minute With The Citizen Aqualand

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s not often you get the chance to own an innovative and iconic dive watch, but the Citizen Promaster Aqualand is exactly that. True to its original 1985 design, the modern Aqualand retains its hybrid analog digital display and pressure gauge, design cues that have withstood the test of time and make for an eminently capable dive watch to this day. Thanks to its depth meter and alarm/stopwatch functionality, the Aqualand is the same cool dive watch it was in the mid-1980s. Get the inside scoop by watching our video on the Promaster Aqualand below. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s not often you get the chance to ow...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Thor’s Picks From Seiko, Orient, And Farer Fratello
Seiko Orient Mar 29, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Thor’s Picks From Seiko, Orient, And Farer

It may seem like an odd starting point, but with this €1,000 budget, I’m making a concerted effort to put myself in the shoes of a budding watch lover. And to be honest, I have a lot of baggage with my value-driven collecting focus. Seiko watches still represent great value, so one of those will […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Thor’s Picks From Seiko, Orient, And Farer to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 Valour Chronograph Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Mar 28, 2024

Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 Valour Chronograph

Christopher Ward is expanding its military watch line, with the new C63 Valour chronograph. Past Christopher Ward military watches have paid tribute to the British Army, Navy, and Air Force. The C63 Valour is the first watch in Christopher Ward’s lineup dedicated to all three branches. In creating the C63 Valour, watch designer Will Brackfield turned to “the British Military quartz watches of the 1980s, with applied and polished numerals.” The C63 Valour similarly features applied numerals and an applied logo in steel that pop against the black dial. In military watches, legibility is key, and it’s clear the C63 Valour draws on pilot watches in particular with its large Arabic numerals. It’s a minimalist watch face, with a lot of information laid out very simply, making it easy to read and a pleasure to look at. Lumed hour and minute hands make sure that it’s easy to read even at night. The three branches are represented on the watch in the steel subdials, which feature a light blue hand for the Air Force, a dark blue hand for the Navy, and a red hand for the Army. The caseback also features the three heraldic crests of the military branches, along with the queen’s crown in honor of the late Queen Elizabeth II. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a lug-to-lug of 45.8mm. Inside is a battery-powered movement with a lifespan of three years and accuracy of plus or minus 10 seconds a year. Fitting for a watch that also pays tribute to the Royal Nav...

Tudor Introduces the Limited Production Black Bay Chrono “Pink” SJX Watches
Breitling derived MT5813 movement I Mar 28, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Limited Production Black Bay Chrono “Pink”

In a surprise launch just before Watches & Wonders 2024, Tudor has just revealed the Black Bay Chrono “Pink”. Departing from the brand’s typical no-nonsense and occasionally military aesthetic, the new chronograph is based on a watch created for Jay Chou, the Taiwanese musician who’s one of the biggest stars in Asia. Though not a limited edition, Tudor states “few of [Black Bay Chrono “Pink”] will ever be made”. Initial thoughts Tudor’s watches are almost uniformly good value, regardless of model, so I am a fan. But most have either a sporting instrument or military equipment, which is to say the variety in design is limited (save for a handful of unpublicised special runs). It’s difficult to describe most Tudor watches as fun, which this certainly is. The Black Bay Chrono “Pink” is appealing because, well, it’s pink. The colour instantly sets it apart from the average Tudor watch, while also having being a subtle reference to historical models. And of course it is the value proposition that a Tudor always is, particularly with the high-spec Breitling-derived MT5813 movement. I like the watch, but I am unsure about the “5-link” bracelet (that is clearly Jubilee inspired), particularly on a watch of this size. Still, it’s a compelling enough proposition I would buy one given the opportunity. Jay Chou Otherwise serious looking This is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono that is ordinarily a low key watch, available either as a “panda” o...

[Video] The Rado Anatom, and What the Next Vintage Watch Revival Might Look Like Worn & Wound
Rado Anatom Mar 28, 2024

[Video] The Rado Anatom, and What the Next Vintage Watch Revival Might Look Like

When you write about watches for a living, it’s impossible not to think about the concept of vintage reissues and vintage inspired watches on an almost daily basis. For the last ten years, at least, vintage inspired watches have been the key driving force in the watch market, even if you take a somewhat narrow view of what a “vintage inspired” watch really is. They have been ubiquitous for a long time now.  But that’s changing. We no longer live in an environment where every other watch that finds its way into my inbox is based on a design from the middle of the last century. They’re still there, to be sure, but it’s not nearly as overwhelming as it once was. It’s been gratifying to see many brands, a lot of them small and making watches at affordable price points, introduce popular contemporary designs that are original and have resonated strongly with the community. By the same token, the best makers of watches inspired by designs from the 1950s and 1960s have established themselves more firmly, and carved out niches for themselves in the enthusiast community where their watches don’t feel like knock-offs, but part of a long tradition, and possessed of their own unique design language.  It occurs to me though that my perspective on this could simply be that of someone who is getting older. I’ve rounded 40 now, and am shocked on a weekly basis to learn that albums and movies that meant a lot to me in high school and college are now celebrating 20 and 2...

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Strike Two Series with Horizontal Regulator Layout Monochrome
Chronoswiss Mar 28, 2024

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Strike Two Series with Horizontal Regulator Layout

The allure of contemporary Chronoswiss designs is palpable to watch enthusiasts, as evidenced by the plethora of limited-edition models marked as sold out in the company’s online catalogue, which offers both cutting-edge models and classic designs in peaceful coexistence. The new Strike Two series unveils yet another bridge between the brand’s esteemed past, exemplified by […]

The Biver Carillon Tourbillon Gets a Three-Dimensional Guilloche Dial SJX Watches
Blancpain Mar 28, 2024

The Biver Carillon Tourbillon Gets a Three-Dimensional Guilloche Dial

Biver concludes the 50-piece run of its flagship Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon with a striking pair featuring its first guilloche dials. Instead of the conventional engine turning on metal, the dials are either black obsidian or white mother-of-pearl, both finished with three-dimensional guilloche. Inspired by the links of the brand’s bracelet, the guilloche forms a terraced geometric patterns in dial centre that’s elegantly accentuated by baguette-cut diamond indexes. Initial thoughts Despite being neither a watchmaker, engineer, nor constructor, Jean-Claude Biver is an individual who personifies the Swiss watch industry – and he isn’t even Swiss. In his career so far, he revived two brands, Blancpain and then Hublot, and in between the two turbocharged Omega, in the process becoming one of the most influential and respected personalities in watchmaking. So when Mr Biver announced that he and his son Pierre would be starting their own brand, everyone was paying attention. The brand’s inaugural watch, the Carillon Tourbillon, is a grand complication executed to an impressive degree of quality. The design, however, was debatable. Consequently the brand got off to a tough start, particularly on social media where the criticism of its design was free flowing. With a one-off created for charity auction Only Watch, Biver eliminated the dial, resulting in a striking, appealing watch. Here the brand has retained the dial, but with new materials and decoration. The...

The First Overseas Stop for Grand Seiko “Alive in Time Through the Five Senses” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Alive Mar 28, 2024

The First Overseas Stop for Grand Seiko “Alive in Time Through the Five Senses”

In its first stop outside of Japan, Alive in Time Through the Five Senses just concluded in Singapore, with other cities possibly being on the cards. Conceived to present the spirit of the brand by engaging all five senses, the exhibition was made up of five sections: sight, sound, touch, taste, and smell. The exhibition began with sight, where guests were greeted by watchmakers Satoshi Hiraga and Ikukiyo Komatsu, representing the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi and Shinshu Watch Studio respectively. The former specialises in mechanical movements, while the latter is responsible for Spring Drive, so each watchmaker demonstrated his speciality: Mr Hiraga worked on a 9S automatic calibre while Mr Komatsu on a 9R Spring Drive movement. Also on display was the third Grand Seiko movement family, the 9F Quartz. The visual transitioned to the aural in the sound section where visitors were treated to an immersive film experience depicting the 340 parts of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon. Despite the impressive mechanical complexity of the Kodo, one of the distinguishing elements of the movement is its 16-beat rhythm resulting from the overlapping ticks and tocks of both the escapement and the remontoir. The exhibition continued in the area dedicated to touch simulating a precisely prepared Zen garden. Guests could try various Grand Seiko models – and take the obligatory wrist shot against the tranquil beauty of the garden. The taste and smell area concluded the experience with...

Christopher Ward Introduces The C63 Valour - A Quartz Chronograph Inspired By Military Watches From The 1980s Fratello
Christopher Ward Introduces Mar 28, 2024

Christopher Ward Introduces The C63 Valour - A Quartz Chronograph Inspired By Military Watches From The 1980s

The speed at which Christopher Ward releases new watches is impressive. But it’s even more impressive that the brand maintains a certain level of variety that keeps every release fresh. There’s truly something for everyone in Christopher Ward’s rapidly expanding collection. The newest creation from the CW kitchens is the C63 Valour. This quartz timepiece […] Visit Christopher Ward Introduces The C63 Valour - A Quartz Chronograph Inspired By Military Watches From The 1980s to read the full article.

Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph Fratello
Mar 28, 2024

Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph

The style and fashion trends of the 1960s can mostly only be described as regrettable in these times of image consciousness and scrutiny on social media. Fashion faux pas like bell-bottomed trousers, tie-dye, and platform shoes have caused more than a slight blush to the cheeks of those who championed them back in the Swinging […] Visit Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph to read the full article.

Dear Watch Fans, Pace Yourselves And Beat The FOMO - A Watch Is Not A Pair Of Sneakers Fratello
Mar 27, 2024

Dear Watch Fans, Pace Yourselves And Beat The FOMO - A Watch Is Not A Pair Of Sneakers

Dear watch fans, it’s time to take a breather. Just sit back, relax, and listen to the 8-track - and you can do that while listening to Me’shell Ndegéocello’s song “I’m Diggin’ You (Like an Old Soul Record).” The reason I’m writing this is that the fast-paced digital world seems to be taking its toll […] Visit Dear Watch Fans, Pace Yourselves And Beat The FOMO - A Watch Is Not A Pair Of Sneakers to read the full article.