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Watches and What Else: the Intersection of Pens and Horology with Brett Braley-Palko Worn & Wound
Oct 19, 2023

Watches and What Else: the Intersection of Pens and Horology with Brett Braley-Palko

Editor’s Note: Watches and What Else is a continuing series where we look at some of the other things our watch collecting community is interested in. We’ve always found watch collectors to be a curious, well rounded bunch, and in this series we’re going to explore a variety of the watch adjacent (and sometimes, not so adjacent) interests of collectors of all stripes. From illustration to aviation, video games and comics to heavy metal and craft cocktails, there’s a lot to explore, and we think you’ll enjoy diving into the pursuits that your fellow watch enthusiasts are passionate about.  This week, Chris Antzoulis talks to novelist, pen industry veteran, and Worn & Wound contributor Brett Braley-Palko about the unexpected connections between mechanical watches and fine writing instruments.  If you stay current with what’s up in the watch space by consuming your daily fill of articles here at Worn & Wound, then you will recognize the name of my subject this month. Brett Braley-Palko is also a fellow W&W; contributor, a watch enthusiast, and an all-around guru on style. However, this is a writer who takes his scribbling seriously. He has quite the collection of pens and is more than happy to share this love with the rest of us.  Watches Brett fell into the world of watches within the last year and says “the threshold into getting into any industry with a big cult following is to recognize your level of expertise and being humble with it […] When I first st...

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IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Oct 19, 2023

IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert

After recently introducing a pilot’s watch with a fully-luminous dial and the Big Pilot perpetual in white ceramic, IWC continues to grow its aviation-inspired offerings with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. First introduced as a limited edition in 2019, the sand-coloured ceramic chronograph is now regular production and in a more wearable size of 41 mm. Initial thoughts One of the standouts in the Top Gun collection has been the Mojave Desert with its beige tones – definitely an unusual colour for a oversized sports watch. However, the colour was only applied to larger models to date. The reintroduction of the Mojave Desert in a more compact size, and standard production to boot, is a good thing – though probably not such a good thing for owners of the limited edition version. The smaller case helps with wearability, making this desirable colour combination available to a wider audience. Size aside, there is no major point of difference. The same can be said for price: the new Mojave Desert chronograph retails for US$11,700, mirroring the price tag of the other ceramic chronographs in the collection. A new size, but same style The Mojave Desert chronograph is the latest addition to the “Colours of Top Gun” collection that draws inspiration from the US Navy’s flight school. The colour choice for this model is influenced by the Mojave Desert that surrounds the US Navy’s TOPGUN fighter pilot academy, and its pilots’ distinctive flight...

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The James Brand and Timex Debut a Colorful New Ironman Worn & Wound
Timex Debut Oct 18, 2023

The James Brand and Timex Debut a Colorful New Ironman

If there’s one thing we love around here, it’s an affordable collaboration between two brands we admire. And if there’s a second thing, it’s the 1990s. Well, it just so happens that the latest from our friends at The James Brand and Timex check both of those boxes. The new TJB edition of the classic Timex Ironman comes during a period where brands have fully leaned into collaborative watches to the point that they are the norm, rather than special. But if you are old enough to have a living memory of the 90s (the heyday of the Ironman) it’s hard not to love a release like this one.  The James Brand, for those who might not have been fully wrapped up into the everyday carry scene quite yet, is a Portland, OR based brand making knives, tools, and other EDC items with an eye toward a contemporary and minimalist design language. They can still employ some serious color when called upon though, as their recent collaboration with Topo Designs more than illustrates. This new Ironman incorporates James Brand practicality with a color palette that leans into their more adventurous side, as seen in products like their Redstone and Palmer knives. But it’s turned up to 11 here, in a way that will feel familiar to devotees of the original Ironmans from years ago.  The 39mm resin case is dominated by a vibrant yellow bezel, and is accented with bright red buttons on the case flanks and a turquoise strap made from #TIDE up-cycled ocean plastics. Of course, there’s also an...

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Studio Underd0g Unveils their Second Collection, a Contemporary Take on the Field Watch (with Plenty of Lume) Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Oct 17, 2023

Studio Underd0g Unveils their Second Collection, a Contemporary Take on the Field Watch (with Plenty of Lume)

Studio Underd0g has been charming watch enthusiasts with their colorful chronographs for the last few years, and at long last they’ve announced their follow up effort. This is a somewhat tall order – their chronos were hits in the collector community like few other watches can claim to be, largely a result of their total originality and the brand’s commitment to fully exploring their own design language. Their “Watermelon” chronograph is perhaps their most well known watch, but they’ve released many other equally colorful and exciting chronos, most of which are similarly inspired by the vivid colors of our favorite foods. “Mint Chocolate Chip” and “Strawberries and Cream” immediately come to mind, but their chronograph has been available in a rainbow of appetizing colors since its inception. With their new collection, Studio Underd0g is approaching color in a different way, and via a different platform, that’s simultaneously a little more traditional and also, in some ways, more transgressive.  The 02Series Field Collection from Studio Underd0g is their take on a classic field watch, with the hypothetical design brief being that the British Ministry of Defense has asked Studio Underd0g to create a reliable watch for the armed forces fighting in World War II. This, of course, is a familiar idea, and it’s a strange coincidence that this seems to be the season of contemporary British brands providing their own unique twist on something that’s existe...

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MICROMILSPEC is Back with a Watch Made in Collaboration with the Norwegian Air Force Worn & Wound
Oct 17, 2023

MICROMILSPEC is Back with a Watch Made in Collaboration with the Norwegian Air Force

While not necessarily a household name, MICROMILSPEC is well-known in military and law enforcement circles across Norway, the United States, and soon Canada. A Scandinavian brand that’s dedicated to creating performance-tested, long-lasting timepieces built for the specific needs of its customers, MICROMILSPEC’s brand ethos isn’t to sell volume – it’s to become an invaluable tool on the field or during active duty. Because of this, many of MICROMILSPEC’s watches have been bespoke one-off designs for the commissioner’s specific purpose; not necessarily for commercial sale. Crafting these highly specialized pieces has always been the backbone of the brand, but MICROMILSPEC has since started to catch the eye of collectors who want to own one of their watches without, for example, risking their lives or working for an intelligence agency. Because of this, MICROMILSPEC has opened some of their designs to the general public for a limited-edition release. One such watch is the new HERCULES. Built in partnership with the Norwegian Air Force’s 335 Squadron, the HERCULES is dedicated to the aircraft that shares its name. To build a watch that has as much ingenuity and power as the esteemed aircraft, the Norwegian watchmaker worked in conjunction with the Squadron for over a year to exacting specifications. The result is a 100-piece limited edition that’s as technically precise as it is wearable. Every inch of the HERCULES has an intentional – and functional – q...

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Bremont Broadsword Hands-On: Testing The Entry-Level Bremont Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bremont Broadsword Hands-On Testing Oct 16, 2023

Bremont Broadsword Hands-On: Testing The Entry-Level Bremont

Over the years we've really warmed up to Bremont on this site, even though I think they've had some misses recently. The S302 GMT I reviewed is still a hit in my eyes and this time, I wanted to test out one of the more entry-level offerings in the catalog. By the way, that S302 even made its way into our guide covering the best military watches ever. While it's not necessarily affordable by any means, the Bremont Broadsword seemed to be a compelling entry point, specifically within the brand's Armed Forces collection. I jumped at the opportunity to try it out this year, along with a couple of other field watches in my rotation.

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[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy” I Oct 16, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy”

I don’t look at Tudor in the same way as some of my colleagues. I’ve always liked and admired the brand, and I’ve owned their watches in the past, but for me they come up well short of a brand that I’ve ever obsessed over. They make very good watches, and represent an excellent value in the larger market, but when a new Tudor is released and the entire Watch Internet stops in its tracks to dissect it to the micron, I always feel a little lost. They just don’t inspire a desire to dive into that level of analysis for me. It’s how I feel about ER versus The Sopranos. Both shows I love and find myself rewatching often. I could podcast every week about The Sopranos, but I just don’t have a lot to say about ER.  But when I saw the new Black Bay 41 in burgundy at Watches & Wonders this year, it felt different. It was like the Tudor portion of my brain, which might previously have been lobotomized, was magically activated, possibly for the very first time. It could have been the high of that first meeting of the show, the lighting in the booth, being in an over-caffeinated state, or the promise of those little sandwiches in the press lounge in a matter of hours, but I was in a particularly receptive mood for this watch. I remember it immediately standing out among their entire crop of releases, which had not yet been through the cycle of hype to come. I distinctly recall thinking that the new 41mm Black Bay was going to be the star pupil of this year’s novelties, ...

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Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant (Force) Escapement: The Evolution of a Revolution Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Force Escapement Oct 16, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant (Force) Escapement: The Evolution of a Revolution

While it is remarkable how Girard-Perregaux made the movement, it is even more astonishing how they turned it into such an incredibly good-looking watch. Compared to its predecessor, the Neo Constant Escapement has a very wearable size of 45mm in diameter at a thickness of 14.8mm. It sits nicely on even a smaller wrist thanks to relatively short lugs, while the titanium case keeps the weight down.

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Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Unveils Oct 14, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement

Still one of the most notable escapements on the market despite being a decade old, Girard-Perregaux’s double-wheel-and-silicon invention has been refined and revived as the Neo Constant Escapement. Presented in titanium, the Neo Constant Escapement is the regular production version of the unique piece in pink gold made for Only Watch 2023. The calibre within is a revamped version of the 2013 original that retains the double escape wheels and integral constant-force silicon spring, but reworked for superior function. Initial thoughts Technically impressive as it was, the original Constant Escapement (CE) from 2013 was huge (the case was 48 mm, making size one of its biggest weakness) and expensive at the time. That explains in part why the CE never caught on despite its merits. The revamp of the watch ten years old has substantially improved both its function and form. The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is both more wearable and more appealing in terms of design. Besides being more compact, the “Neo” case also has a highly domed crystal that shows off the escapement well. Even though the watch has been redesigned, the NCE retains the hyper-modern, open-worked styling of the original. The look certainly suits the inventive nature of the silicon escapement, though it would have been interesting if GP experimented with a classical design, which might have been ironic but attractive for the contrasting ideas. Equally important is the fact that the retail price remains ab...

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