2,416 articles · 1,282 videos found · page 52 of 124
Every Tudor Black Bay: 79220R/B/N, 79230, 79030 BB58, 79830RB Pro, 7939 GMT METAS, S&G, Bronze, Chrono.
The Tudor heritage diver that revived the brand and references every vintage Submariner.
Monochrome
What you see is quite literally what you get with this new Samurai by Seiko. Born as the more edgy, contemporary counterpart to Seiko’s many heritage-inspired dive watches, the Samurai was introduced in 2004 and redesigned completely in 2024. Now, a year onward from the burgundy and black models that introduced us to a smaller […]
Fratello
The Swatch press release for this watch says it’s “inspired by the unexplored.” The deep green new Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss with touches of black (bezel) and beige (markers, hands, bezel numerals, etc.) takes inspiration from the ocean’s depths. Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss This is the ninth Blancpain […] Visit The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Following the Classique Souscription, and Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, Breguet continues its 250th anniversary roll-out by turning to its signature pilot’s watch. The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH debuts in two variants in “Breguet gold”: a regular production with a black aluminium dial and a 250-piece limited edition with a sterling silver dial. Both are handsome and stay mostly true to the model’s heritage thanks to faithful sizing and a manually-wound movement. The regular production with a black aluminium dial (left), and sterling silver dial of the limited edition Initial Thoughts The new Type XX ticks many of the boxes from an enthusiast’s perspective with its compact dial and concise dial that does without a date and hour totalizer – both welcome reductions to the first-generation design. That said, the Breguet gold case is limiting due to the price. A stainless steel case would’ve been even more appreciated, though that will probably arrive in due time. While the cal. 7278/7279 in the new Type XX is technically excellent – like most Breguet calibres – the thoroughly modern construction doesn’t complement the vintage-inspired design. Adapting the cal. 582 used in the 1990s Type XX might have been more interesting due to its lateral clutch construction and increasingly rare cam-control system, though the cal. 7278/7279 reads better on a spec sheet with its vertical clutch. And to preserve the vintage feel, a solid, hand-engraved case back might...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Cartier Tank is one of the most thoroughly and exhaustively discussed watches of all time. At one point or another, the Cartier Tank has been worn by JFK, Princess Diana, Ralph Lauren, Michelle Obama, Muhammad Ali, Andy Warhol… the list really goes on and on. The first Cartier Tank was a prototype worn by none other than U.S. General "Black Jack" Pershing, who was the commander of the Allied forces in World War I. And while the collection was formally debuted with the Tank Normale, it would be the Cartier Tank Louis that would go on to be synonymous with the iconic rectangular-cased watch. Of course, there is so much history and lore to get lost in with the Tank and our own resident expert, Mark Bernardo, did a complete job of it, which you can read here. The Cartier Tank Louis is an Art Deco classic that has inspired countless imitators but, as with all great things, there is the real thing and then there’s everything else. Cartier Tank Louis Case The contemporary Cartier Tank Louis comes in a few different sizes, starting with the mini quartz which is 16.5mm wide, 6.2mm thick, and 24mm tall; to the small mechanical, which is 22mm wide, 6.8mm thick, and 29.5mm tall; to the size I will be reviewing here, which is the large manual-winding model, which is 25.5mm wide, 6.6mm thick, and 33.7mm tall. There is also the automatic Tank Louis that was introduced at this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders, which is 27.7mm wide, 8.18mm thick, and 38.1mm tall. When mos...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Railmaster can best be put into historical context as of one of the most recognizable names in its category that arguably gets the least amount of attention. It hasn’t been a mainstay for the brand, and currently sits in purgatory, with no modern Railmaster existing in the contemporary Omega collection. It’s a black sheep with serious historical credentials that should have been a perennial adversary to the Rolex Explorer, and yet it became instead something of an enthusiast darling, a relic of esoterica. I would argue that it just missed its initial window to hit immortality, courtesy of little more than bad timing. It was, and remains, one of the coolest designs from a brand that really could rest on its laurels behind the Speedmaster and Seamaster. And with those two models mentioned, let’s properly understand the what, where, how, and why of the Omega Railmaster. Okay, and also the when. In 1957, Omega basically released the only three watches any brand would ever have to release to prove everlasting viability. Well, in theory, two of those brands seem to have done the trick – the Railmaster was just icing on the cake. Think of it like when Rolex unveiled the Submariner and the Explorer in the very same year, followed closely by the GMT-Master. Those three watches have experienced continuous production since that time and represent the core ethos of Rolex today. Similarly, in ‘57, we saw Omega unveil a trilogy of watches: The Seamaster, the Speedmas...
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Teddy Baldassarre
My first Rolex was an Explorer II 216570 with black dial and I absolutely loved that watch. It was rarer than the GMT-Master II or Submariner, and didn’t have the ceramic bezel, which I found to be a little too glossy and “luxe” for what I was looking for in a watch at the time. I kept and wore the heck out of that watch for almost six years until I just felt like it didn’t speak to me anymore. The 42mm wide “Maxi” case seemed too big and the big, thick hour and minutes hands just began to bug me. I can’t explain why I was so dead set on the 216570 rather than the older 16570 at the time but I can certainly say that now, in 2025, the Rolex Explorer II 16570 is not just my preferred iteration of the modern spelunking watch, but an all-timer from Rolex. I’ve started to refer to the 16570 as a “Forever Rolex” because it ticks all the boxes - size, reliability, dual-time functionality, and discrete aesthetics - all while remaining one of the few Rolexes that isn’t immediately recognizable to every casual observer. Let’s take a look at why I’m such a big fan of this old-school Rolex. Case and Specs: The Other Rolex GMT Measuring 40mm wide and 12.2mm thick with a 47mm lug-to-lug height, the 16570 is an eminently wearable Rolex. And while this is very obviously a sport/tool watch, these proportions make for a very versatile and subdued piece. No, there isn’t a rotating bezel with a nickname-ready color combo here. Rather, there is a demure, fixed ...
Monochrome
That above is a quote from The Philosophy of Dress by Oscar Wilde, whose wardrobe was a hallmark of the Brit’s flamboyant and eccentric personality. Imagine flowing capes, wide-brimmed hats, luxurious fur and velvet… Regarding dress watches, specific images are almost instinctive: slim profiles, minimalist three-hand layouts, and timeless dial tones – black, navy, white, […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Iceland is a place of extremes: glaciers, geothermal hot springs, and black sand beaches shaped by volcanic fury. It’s also a place where time seems to slow down and I thought it was ideal for reflecting on both nature and time spent with family-shaping memories I'll never forget. Watches were also part of the journey, of course. And as I prepared for the trip, the exercise behind choosing which timepieces to bring was something I deeply enjoyed. Now that I'm back, I just wanted to reflect on those choices and how they played a role in my first trip outside the US since the COVID era. I needed it, and it was awesome.
Fratello
An all-black vintage chronograph with the design chops of Ferdinand Alexander Porsche makes for an intriguing vintage option. Today, we’re looking at the Valjoux 7750-powered Porsche Design Chronograph 1 by Orfina. I love blacked-out watches. There is something particularly cool about them. The IWC RAAF with its black ceramic case has been a personal favorite […] Visit Vintage Cool And The Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph 1 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s flagship chronograph gets a new dial with the Tentagraph SLGC007 that just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025. Nearly identical to its predecessor, the SLGC001 with a dark blue dial, the new iteration distinguishes itself through a striking grey dial embossed with a pattern inspired by freshly fallen snow. This is matched with contrasting black sub-dials that coordinate seamlessly with the ceramic bezel, setting it apart from the earlier model. Initial thoughts The SLGC001 was a significant milestone for Grand Seiko - serving as the brand’s first mechanical chronograph - the new iteration of the Tentagraph is a just cosmetic variant. It has all the strengths and weaknesses of the original, though the dial is more attractive. This refreshed dial is far more appealing than the original in blue, as blue is somewhat overused in sports watches. The “panda”-esque black registers are also a nice touch that add to the sporty design. Priced at US$14,700, the Tentagraph SLGC007 is priced reasonably – but not quite the same value proposition as the average Grand Seiko. The Tentagraph has an impressive list of features, most obviously the in-house cal. 9SC5 with Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, and a high level of fit and finish, but the movement is modular in construction, which should not be a case for a flagship chronograph from a respected watchmaker. Nature inspired once again As is often the case with Grand Seiko dials, the SLGC007...
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Monochrome
With its long-winded name, IWC’s new watch can best be described as the more complex brother of a Performance Chronograph released in 2023 for four-wheeled pilots. Equipped with the brand’s innovative perpetual calendar movement and its uncommon digital display, the Performance Chronograph IW388801 comes with a dashing black and golden colour scheme. Presented in 2023, […]
Monochrome
Twenty-five years ago, Chanel launched the J12 in black ceramic. Although brands like Rado and IWC had already produced ceramic watches, Chanel’s watch transformed ceramic into a precious material. An immediate hit, another unique facet of the watch was its unisex appeal. Designed by Chanel’s former artistic director Jacques Hélleu, the sleek, dark, sporty J12 […]
Hodinkee
Inspired by an Only Watch piece, the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif gets stealthier in black.
Monochrome
Deploying its full arsenal for Watches and Wonders 2025, the Saxon powerhouse A. Lange & Söhne unveils the Minute Repeater Perpetual, a potent horological cocktail combining a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar. A rare and ambitious mix, the imposing platinum Minute Repeater Perpetual with a black enamel dial is powered by a newly developed […]
Monochrome
With Watches and Wonders now open, all eyes are on Rolex’s latest novelties. Next to the much expected Land-Dweller, the crown also introduced a slew of new dials including a turquoise blue lacquer dial punctuated by bright black counters for the yellow gold Daytona. If this is not a major novelty from a technical / […]
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SJX Watches
As is tradition for F.P. Journe, the unique creation made for the most recent Only Watch has now evolved into a regular production watch, the Chronomètre Furtif, that has the same dimensions and movement, but an entirely different material and style. The Chronomètre Furtif is striking, all-black sports watch that is almost entirely in tungsten carbide, a hard and strong material typical used for tooling. The furtif, or “stealthy”, aspect is enhanced by the tone-on-tone fired enamel dial in dark grey with laser engraved markings that are primarily visible to the wearer. Initial thoughts The Chronomètre Furtif is expected because of the Only Watch edition that came before it – and because Francois-Paul Journe has talked about it – but it is novel amongst F.P. Journe watches for the all-black look. That said, it is still recognisable as an F.P. Journe as it inherits many elements from the lineSport. In the hand, the Chronomètre Furtif is almost entirely black at many angles, though the mirror-like dial is highly reflective. And it is impressively heavy at some 250 g, though it sits well because the case is wide and flat. But most of all, the low-key look is arguably all the more appropriate given the fame of the maker and the desirability of his watches. At this moment in time I would absolute love a furtif F.P. Journe rather than a highly recognisable model like the Elegante or Chronomètre Bleu. The cal. 1522 inside Stealth and l0w-key The Chronometre Furtif ret...
Monochrome
The Armin Strom Orbit, with an innovative on-demand date display, debuted in 2022. It was initially launched as a limited “First Edition” before Armin Strom added a permanent collection reference with a black time subdial the same year. Just ahead of Watches and Wonders 2025, Armin Strom introduces a new version by adding a trendy purple […]
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vantage Chronograph First up this week is a gorgeous vintage Vantage chronograph. The original and mint black and white “reverse panda” dial is just a beauty, with perfectly aged lume. Similar styling to the famous Heuer Carrera, that’s why it’s referred to as a “poor man’s Carrera”, but honestly aside from the name, this watch is just as good at a very reasonable price. The steel case is nice and sharp, and the Valjoux 7733 manual wind movement is clean as a whistle and runs well per the seller. If you’re looking for a nice vintage chronograph, it’s hard to beat this Vantage. View auction here Bulova Sea King Here’s an unusual Bulova Sea King. The oval style steel case definitely stands out with its unique shape. Unpolished, with original finish and crisp edges. The N0 date code dates the watch to 1970. The charcoal dial is excellent, with the Sea King Whale logo and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The watch comes on a period-correct stretch band that definitely suits the watch if you like the stretch bands. There is no movement picture but the watch runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage Lord Elgin This vintage Lord Elgin is a sweet dress watch, ...
Worn & Wound
In a monochrome, modernist twist on the recently released A1 First Series, London upstart brand Anoma-short for Anomaly- has announced its followup, the appropriately named A1 Slate. Sharing the same smooth triangular shape with rounded angles and an offset face, the A1 Slate was similarly inspired by a free-form table designed by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s, and Constantin Brâncuși’s modernist sculptures. The new gray, black, and white color scheme, however, promises a more subtle take on the shape that aligns more with the third inspiration-river stones, smoothed over time by passing water. The 316L stainless steel triangular case is likely the first detail on the A1, whether the First Series or the Slate, that an observer will notice. Measuring in at 30mm x 38mm (though Anoma notes that the shape and lack of lugs make the fit closer to 37mm), the case is mirror-polished, and meant to refract and bend light at every angle. Without having the watch on hand, I can’t vouch for this effect, but Worn & Wound’s own Zach Weiss reviewed the A1 First Series back in January 2024 and attested to the charm of the watch’s styling and finish. The vertically-brushed dial itself stands out against the case, with individually-engraved contrasting inner triangles coated with three layers of glossy black lacquer. Leaf hour and minute hands adorn the dial, with the Anoma logo below the centerpoint. A cleverly-situated cross with lines at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clo...
Teddy Baldassarre
Omega has been on a tear with what I would call a series of the “worst-kept secrets in watches.” This was kicked off by the white Omega Speedmaster, furthered by the black aluminum Seamaster Diver 300m, and then punctuated by a watch “surprise” launched this morning: a new, full-bronze-gold Omega Seamaster Diver 300m. All of these watches have one thing in common: They were each teased (read, spoiled) by former James Bond actor and Omega ambassador Daniel Craig as he wore them out in the world ahead of launch. I, for one, am not too perturbed by this sequence of events. I tend to think that there is no such thing as a spoiled surprise. As a friend of mine once told me, you don’t really spoil a surprise; you merely surprise someone earlier. So let’s examine a new watch that feels like it’s been in our lives for months now – because it has. This one takes its design from from the No Time To Die Seamaster Diver 300m both in look and material. We have the mesh bracelet working against the well known SMP300 case design. Additionally, we have an aluminum bezel insert in a burgundy color which pairs with what appears to be a matte textured black dial, which Omega calls sandblasted. This is an effect I want to see in person. The NTTD dial was a more brownish hue and almost smooth, and the recent black-dial version brought the updated small wave pattern. So this is effectively a new dial texture for the format. Finishing off the dial is text done in a brown colorat...
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SJX Watches
IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...
SJX Watches
Now entering its second year, Alto has returned with two new editions of its debut model, the Art 01. The Art 01 Monochrome Grey and Monochrome Black editions feature bead-blasted titanium cases that enhance the brand’s distinctive futurist aesthetic. Founded by Thibaud Guittard, the Paris-based brand has also announced the arrival of Raphaël Abeillon as Creative Director. Mr Abeillon joins Alto after more than a decade designing watches at Cartier. Initial thoughts Over the past few years, many brands have doubled down on integrated bracelet sport watches and historical re-issues, leading to fatigue among collectors and insiders alike. In this context, the Alto Art 01 is a breath of fresh air, pulling inspiration from far-flung fields like yacht design, cinema, and contemporary art. While the hexagonal louvered dial is unusual and attractive, the Art 01 shines because of its case design. Reasonably sized at 45 mm x 40 mm, the bead-blasted titanium case features faceted sapphire crystals front and back. Thanks to its slim micro-rotor movement, the Art 01 is quite svelte at just 8 mm thick. The Art 01 is powered by a bespoke micro-rotor movement made for Alto by Le Cercle des Horlogers. On paper, the movement looks fairly ordinary, ticking at 4 Hz and running for 48 hours on a full wind. That said, the movement is unusual in that it is open-worked and partially made of titanium, which contributes to the light weight of the watch. In terms of pricing, the Monochrome Editi...
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko’s Alpinist collection is welcoming a new member this week with the release of a new GMT reference featuring a dial inspired by the hornbill, a tropical bird of Southeast Asia. The watch is a Land Alpinist using the brand’s 6R54 caliber, and while this is an existing configuration released back in 2023, there are a few unique details here worth noting - from dial textures and colors to the black bezel piece. This watch is not only a celebration of the majestic hornbill, but also an expansion of the Alpinist platform that goes beyond the existing framework, hopefully opening the door to more expressive variations moving ahead. The Alpinist GMT was released in 2023 in what felt like a very natural move for the collection. As part of the Prospex Land family, the new Alpinist references utilized a fixed, 24-hour steel bezel and an internally rotating compass bezel. Use of the 6R54 allowed the addition of a 24-hour hand into the mix; however this is the so-called “caller” style of GMT hand, meaning the hour hand cannot be set independently on the go. Still, it’s a welcome addition to the modern series carrying forth Seiko’s historic Alpinist name, and retains the charming design of the original. This newest reference to the collection is the SPB493J, and it mixes up the formula just enough to stand apart from the rest. This watch uses base blacks set against the steel 39.5mm case and bracelet, with the inclusion of a deep green color used for the rotating inn...
Worn & Wound
Many of us are guilty of it: in an entire collection, every last dial will be monochrome. White here, black there, and a dash of silver or grey mixed in. If one is particularly daring, there may even be a dark blue dial added in. But versatility isn’t everything - sometimes, a bright, in-your-face dial is the perfect antidote to a grey day. Watch dials have historically been places of decoration. Painted enamel dials were popular in the nineteenth century, with such vivid imagery as landscapes, battles, and hunting scenes adorning them. Though neglected through the early twentieth century, the colorful dial - now in more vibrant bursts of color - saw a vivid return in the mid-twentieth century when companies were scrambling to produce new timekeepers for the burgeoning underwater sport of SCUBA diving. A colorful dial can signal the change in seasons. For many, a bright dial immediately conjures images of sunny vacations, warm water, and worn paperbacks, while a muted dial can be the perfect companion during bleak midwinters, perfectly accenting the changed environment. A well-chosen dial can also inject color into both your collection and wardrobe, providing the right accent piece and adding the missing link in an otherwise perfect outfit. In this week’s Chronicle, we’re looking at some of our favorite colorful dials for those occasions when nothing else will do. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. I...
Monochrome
Maybe the latest Urwerk timepiece is not as bright-coloured as some other brand’s watches we’ve seen lately, but who would have thought that the signature monochromatic, for many years seemingly grey and black-coloured Urwerk catalogue would be adding so many different hues? Hunter Green is not exactly overly vibrant, certainly not as much as the […]
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