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Pie Pan Dial Omega

Faceted multi-level dial designed by Pierre Vibert for the 1952 Omega Constellation; modern Globemaster reissue.

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Aug 26, 2023

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all

“The World Is Yours” Dual Time Zone watch is a tribute to a family heirloom Jacob Arabo received at the age of 13 This two-dialed Wakmann inspired Arabo to aspire to create his own watches, and has informed his designs ever since It utilises a new manufacture calibre JCAA11, and this limited edition release is … ContinuedThe post The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is horology over hype Time+Tide
Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 Aug 22, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is horology over hype

Much of today’s focus in watches revolves around hype pieces, at least in the mainstream. Breguet, however, has zero concern for hype – their total focus and effort is devoted to horology in the traditional style of their namesake. Therefore they do not bend to trends, or cut corners. It is as if with everything … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is horology over hype appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Aug 18, 2023

The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink

While Speake-Marin’s established catalogue has been upheaved in the last couple of years with their integrated-bracelet Ripples watches, their boutique and nuanced past is still being captured with select models like the Academic Black Tie using their Piccadilly case. With the Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink, technical sportiness gets merged with both tradition and vibrant whimsy … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2023

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva uses vintage inspiration for a versatile package. It serves as a reminder that Hanhart aren’t a one-flieger pony. With black or white dials available, the Pioneer Silva neatly balances different eras for a timeless look. Hanhart have had their fair share of the limelight in the past few years, mainly thanks … ContinuedThe post The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Tokyo 2023

The flagship model in Patek Philippe’s special edition line-up for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, the Quadruple Complication Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5308P-010 is an entirely new reference that becomes one of the most complicated watches in the Patek Philippe catalogue. Described as a quadruple complication because it has a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and a twin chronograph, the ref. 5308P is a direct evolution of the ref. 5208. Both are essentially alike, save for the addition of the split-seconds mechanism in the ref. 5308P. Initial thoughts Like all of Patek Philippe’s top-of-the-line grand comps, the ref. 5308P is an imposing and heavy watch that makes a statement on the wrist (unlike the relatively compact ref. 5330G World Time created for the same event). And with the “rose-gilt opaline” dial, this is also visually striking and definitely hard to miss. Though it might seem similar to the ref. 5208, with only an additional seconds hand to set them apart, the ref. 5308P incorporates some interesting technical tweaks, including a revised isolator mechanism for the split seconds. Still, like the ref. 5208, the ref. 5308P is a modular grand complication with the perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronographs made up of modules stacked up under the dial. This is arguably a less sophisticated solution then an integrated chronograph (a perpetual calendar is conventionally a module regardless). Four comps The ref. 5308P has a dial in “ro...

IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch Time+Tide
IWC s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono May 21, 2023

IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch

All the rage at the IWC booth during the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders was the revamped Genta Ingenieur, and rightfully so, for the most part. This story, however, is not about the Ingenieur, but IWC’s bread and butter – pilot’s watches – and more specifically, the brand new Pilot’s Chronograph 41 in stunning … ContinuedThe post IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aera Updates their D-1 Diver and P-1 Pilot Watch with New Colors, Brighter Lume, and a Better Movement Worn & Wound
May 15, 2023

Aera Updates their D-1 Diver and P-1 Pilot Watch with New Colors, Brighter Lume, and a Better Movement

New watch brands pop up all the time, but it’s less frequent that they arrive with fully realized and distinct design language right from the jump. Usually it takes time for a brand to kind of settle into itself, work out the kinks, and figure out what it is that makes them different from their many, many competitors. Aera is a British brand that came onto the scene last year with their D-1 (a diver) and P-1 (a pilot’s watch), and have just announced a pair of follow up references that are very much in the same vein, but have some subtle improvements as well. At first glance, Aera’s watches look almost run-of-the-mill, but a glance at the specs and a closer look at the dial design and small details of how each component hangs together reveal watches that actually inhabit a unique space in the enthusiast market. In short, these watches are big in every sense of the word. They have unapologetically large 43mm 904L steel cases and come in at 16mm and 15mm thick (for the diver and pilot’s watch, respectively) thanks to dramatically domed, double curved sapphire crystals. There’s a bulbous quality to the case design that recalls Ikepod, and when I had a chance to briefly wear a D-1 last year I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable it was for a watch that would normally be outside the limits of what I’d wear on a regular basis in terms of size alone.  But they’re big in other ways too. The curved dials have large openings, much bigger than what you’d norma...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Prashanth P. Worn & Wound
Nomos Orion Duo – $1,600 Feb 10, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Prashanth P.

Editor’s Note: In this Three Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Prashanth P. gives us a detailed look into their focused yet diverse collection. We love it for its unique point of view, and charming personality. See more from Prashanth on Instagram @watchesbringmejoy You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. I’ve read and enjoyed some of the earlier iterations in this series, but was unaware until recently that readers could submit an entry.  I am certain that a significant portion of watch enthusiasts, myself included, have performed similar mental exercises for fun (“If I had X budget, what watches would I get?”).  The twist here is that I will be selecting watches from my own tightly curated (that’s fancy for small) collection.  I rotate four watches, so one of them will probably be upset at being passed over.  Don’t worry, I’ll give it some extra wear time in the upcoming days to assuage any lingering bad feelings.  To me, watch collections live at the intersection of lifestyle (including budget) and personal style.  I hope you enjoy this glimpse at my address. Nomos Orion Duo – $1,600 I’m no fashion maven, but I enjoy dressing up, even if opportunities to do so have dwindled during the pandemic. This first pick is something that I consider my smart watch – the space between ‘smart’ and ‘watch’ being key here. It’s a Nomos Orion Duo, 33mm of manually winding Ba...

The Zenith Defy Revival A3690 Gets Historic Teal Dial Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Revival A3690 Gets Jan 31, 2023

The Zenith Defy Revival A3690 Gets Historic Teal Dial

There was one watch we saw at the LVMH Watch Week still under wraps, and it was also one of our favorites, even though it’s based on an existing model. The perfectly odd Defy Revival welcomes the new A3690 reference, with a brilliant teal dial with vignette effect that darkens towards the perimeter. If you’ve followed the first two releases of this Defy Revival, you won’t be surprised to hear that this is also based on a historic reference from 1969. This is a dial color that saw usage throughout the Defy collection of the era, another example of which you can see in this Affordable Vintage spotlight on the Defy from 2015. Side note, when are we getting the Revival treatment on the A781, A782, and A783? There’s not much left to say about the A3690 from a technical perspective, as it’s identical to the A3691, and A3642 we’ve seen released in recent months. The 37mm octagonal case and 14 sided bezel piece remain as funky as ever, and if you liked it on the other references, you’ll likely find a lot to love with this one. The dial is the biggest departure here and it makes just as big a statement as the case. While the teal dial thing has kind of jumped the shark at this point (hasn’t it?), Zenith gets a pass thanks to the historic reference point, and the fact that the Defy was doing integrated bracelet sport watches since the ‘60s. Plus, this is a great teal dial. It stands up to the bold design of the case and the accordion hour markers demanding equal at...

The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic Time+Tide
Blancpain s Fifty Fathoms It’s Jan 8, 2023

The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic

In a space where so much history has gone before, it’s nigh impossible to create a timepiece that’s totally unique. For example, just about any dive watch you can name shares at least some DNA with the Rolex Submariner or Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms. It’s called classic rock for a reason, and for every Omega Speedmaster, … ContinuedThe post The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: With The New F.P. Journe Octa Sport And Centigraphe Sport In Titanium (Live Pics, Full Specs, & Pricing) Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Dec 15, 2022

Hands-On: With The New F.P. Journe Octa Sport And Centigraphe Sport In Titanium (Live Pics, Full Specs, & Pricing)

When F.P. Journe unveiled his Octa Sports line of watches back in 2011, we (the royal watch collecting "we") could simply not believe how light they were. After all, the F.P. Journe "lineSport" pieces, being the Octa Sport and the Centrigraphe (CTS), were made entirely of aluminum. Yes, aluminum! They were so light, they almost felt fake (seriously). They were not fake, they were just absurdly light, and absurdly cool.

anOrdain Model 1 Payne’s Grey Fumé: 50 Shades Of Grey Never Looked So Tempting – Reprise Quill & Pad
anOrdain Nov 6, 2022

anOrdain Model 1 Payne’s Grey Fumé: 50 Shades Of Grey Never Looked So Tempting – Reprise

anOrdain is not your average watch company. Located in Glasgow, Scotland, its name derives from a remote loch deep in the Scottish Highlands. There, Lewis Heath, a trained architect, first got the idea of creating a modern watch brand honoring traditional crafts. And the new Model 1 Payne's Grey Fumé exemplifies how anOrdain not only honors these crafts but superbly progresses them.

EDITOR’S PICK: An owner’s guide on whether the Rolex Oyster Perpetual deserves the hype Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual deserves May 15, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: An owner’s guide on whether the Rolex Oyster Perpetual deserves the hype

EDITOR’S NOTE: Around the watch world, there was a collective “WTF” exhalation this week at the news that two colourful dialled Rolex Oyster Perpetuals had each sold at Christie’s for over CHF 50,000 apiece (read Zach’s story about it all here). Hand-wringing over the prices of such hype pieces is understandable. But if you managed … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: An owner’s guide on whether the Rolex Oyster Perpetual deserves the hype appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

California dreaming: The tale behind the “anonymous” Panerai California Time+Tide
Panerai California Whilst I’m definitely Apr 19, 2022

California dreaming: The tale behind the “anonymous” Panerai California

Whilst I’m definitely not a Paneristi , there are some models of Panerai that I do like very much, especially their Submersible range. The brand’s consistent vision, style and delivery has won them a loyal fanbase with Panerai claiming 30,000 official Paneristi across the world. Panerai have coped some flak over recent years, with comments on … ContinuedThe post California dreaming: The tale behind the “anonymous” Panerai California appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 6, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph

Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...

The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch Time+Tide
Panerai Luminor Mar 5, 2022

The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. Introduction: The Panerai Luminor When … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Joshua’s Top 10 Watches Of 2021: 5 Mechanical Marvels + 5 Daily Wearers Quill & Pad
Jan 23, 2022

Joshua’s Top 10 Watches Of 2021: 5 Mechanical Marvels + 5 Daily Wearers

Joshua Munchow has separated his top 10 watches of 2021 into two groups, the first being his top five mechanical marvels: watches showcasing some incredible mechanics that get his creative juices flowing. The second group constitutes his top five daily-wear watches: pieces that are so beautiful that he would have a hard time wanting to wear something else. Let’s dive in!

Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers Time+Tide
Jan 2, 2022

Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Are watches really gaining in popularity?  The answer may seem obvious.  Auction houses and certain watch designs are setting all kinds of records.  Wait lists for hype timepieces … ContinuedThe post Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Carl F. Bucherer And Caran d’Ache Celebrate Your Signature Moments With Limited Edition Watch And Pen Set Quill & Pad
Casio n Signature Moments Dec 3, 2021

Carl F. Bucherer And Caran d’Ache Celebrate Your Signature Moments With Limited Edition Watch And Pen Set

A watch or a pen is often a traditional gift for an important occasion. Signature Moments, the first collaboration authored by Carl F. Bucherer with Caran d’Ache, is all about remembrances of things past as well as hopes for the future. These two companies celebrate this with a collaborative limited edition watch and pen set, only 188 of which are available worldwide, comprising Carl F. Bucherer's Manero Flyback Signature timepiece and Caran d’Ache's Signature rollerball pen.

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 1589 Editor’s Oct 28, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589

Editor’s Note: We asked for the anecdotes behind your timepieces as part of our Every Watch Tells A Story series. Straight away, we got this cracking yarn from Tim @inversepanda about how this delectable Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 found its way into his grateful possession. If you have a story that you’d like to share, … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours? Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours?

As watch collectors and owners, we all have, in some form or another, an emotional connection with our timepieces. And if, like me, you have hunted after many watches over the years, then you know that the journey can be, at times, more interesting than the destination. When we attend a watch meetup, one of … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 20, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time

Two years ago Vacheron Constantin created a prototype of an Overseas Dual Time for American mountaineer Cory Richards, who then scaled Mount Everest with the watch. An unusual combination of titanium and tantalum, the prototype was a hit, and soon after sold for just over US$106,000 at auction, with the proceeds going to the National Geographic Society. Its popularity meant Vacheron Constantin (VC) would inevitably put the watch into serial production one way or another. And it has done so – in two versions – with the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph ref. 5510V and Overseas “Everest” Dual Time ref. 7910V. The Everest Chronograph on Mr Richards Initial thoughts I was a fan of the Cory Richards prototype for two reasons. It was intrinsically good looking, in both design and colours, but at the same time it felt original and less similar to other luxury-sports watches. I like the fact that VC translated the prototype into production models without losing the distinctive look and feel. Although the prototype was clearly an Overseas, it had an entirely different case with guards for both the crown and pusher, a feature that has been reproduced on the limited editions. In other words, the Everest editions are not merely the standard models with a new dial. The prototype made for Cory Richards’ ascent of Everest in 2019 The new limited editions both look equally good, though the chronograph is more appealing because of its proportions. It is wider and slightly thick...

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Last week we Aug 11, 2021

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona

Last week we began our “Don’t Feed the Hype” series and, based on your feedback, many of you are on board with this idea of exposing potential alternatives to largely unobtainable watches. To be clear, this is not a take down of watches like the Nautilus or Royal Oak. We love these pieces we are … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.