4,117 articles · 569 videos found · page 52 of 157
Monochrome
Twenty years ago, Austrian couple Maria and Richard Habring (the latter being famous already for his previous work at IWC, including developing the 7750-based Doppel Chronograph, among other clever mechanisms) started their own journey, an independent watchmaking brand known as Habring². Now one of the most respected indie watchmakers in their segment, one of the […]
Fratello
It has been a while since I published a Pre-Owned Spotlight, so I figured I should return in style with watches I can only dream of owning and wearing. Today, I will go on a pretend shopping spree for a pre-owned, high-end chronograph. Do I need a pre-owned, high-end chronograph? Yes, I do, thank you […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...
Monochrome
While the Streamliner has positioned itself as H. Moser’s flagship luxury sports watch, the Pioneer has been fighting its corner since 2015 as the brand’s sportiest, all-terrain, entry-level model. Starting with a Centre Seconds model, the collection escalated in complexity to include a Tourbillon, a Perpetual Calendar and even a skeletonised Cylindrical Tourbillon model. Thanks […]
SJX Watches
The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone. When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...
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Fratello
It’s been roughly 18 months since Lorca founder Jesse Marchant unveiled his debut watch. Praised by the press and enthusiasts alike, the Model No.1 GMT presented a unique take on a multi-time watch. Instead of following the typical GMT category codes, Marchant created a watch much more characterized by its overall vintage-inspired elements. The result […] Visit Unveiling The Lorca Model No.2 - A Connoisseur’s Chronograph to read the full article.
Fratello
Today, we go hands-on with the Louis Moinet Speed of Sound chronograph. This is a stunning modern watch with a vintage heart. As we’ll see, the rare vintage movement has been modified functionally and cosmetically to offer a novel moonphase display. Credit is due to Louis Moinet for creating innovative ways of displaying traditional time-related […] Visit Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In celebration of its partnership with its retailer in Southeast Asia, H. Moser & Cie. has created the 20-piece Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Cortina Watch. Based on its signature sports chronograph, right down to the “lobster” bracelet, the Cortina edition gets a striking red fumé dial with an “invisible” Moser logo. Initial thoughts Though the Streamliner is one of Moser’s strongest sellers, the brand hasn’t done that many limited editions of the Streamliner chronograph, so it’s not a theme that’s been overdone. As a result, the Cortina edition stands out as one of the few iterations of the model. And it also stands out in tangible terms: the red dial sets this apart from past Streamliner Chronographs that were all dressed in darker colours. At the same time, the smoked red dial is different from the usual dark blue or grey that’s the norm for integrated-bracelet sports watches. More generally, collaborative timepieces are often marked with various logos, front and back, in an unambiguous illustration of the collaboration. In case of the Cortina edition, however, subtlety wins the day. The retailer’s logo has been omitted, and even the Moser logo is barely visible on the dial. The timepiece speaks for itself, rather than the collaboration, which is a good thing. Priced at 83,000 Singapore dollars (or about US$64,000), the Streamliner Cortina edition costs about 8% more than the regular production in local currency terms (which include taxes). Given...
Time+Tide
The Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph is a great example of a brand embracing its past but knowing where to look forward.The post Improving upon history with the Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I confess that I look forward to anything Rick Marei and his team create. Recent offerings from Aquastar and Synchron have all been exciting, well made, and relatively affordable. Now the new Aquastar Airstar Chronograph further ups the approachability ante. This is certainly one of the cooler recent releases. There are a lot of ’60s […] Visit Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph to read the full article.
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Fratello
Cabot Watch Company (CWC) has a strong and loyal following, including among some of the writers here at Fratello. The British-based brand is known for its military-issued timepieces. Today, we take a closer look at the new CWC 6BB-WR Chronograph. For a small and relatively young brand, CWC has quite a lot of history. It […] Visit Hands-On With The New CWC 6BB-WR Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Independence Skeleton Chrono is the latest from Norqain, the maker of affordable sports watches. Available in stainless steel or DLC-coated titanium, the Independence Skeleton Chrono is equipped with a new movement, the “8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1)”. Developed in partnership with AMT, the NK24/1 is based on the architecture of the Sellita SW500 but upgraded in several ways, including a flyback function and a column wheel to replace the customary cam. Initial thoughts The Independence chronograph is now Norqain’s top-of-the-line offering, so it costs substantially more than the brand’s prior chronograph models. Still, the Independence arguably offers a similar value proposition as past Norqain models because while it’s more expensive, it is more watch. The case has more detail and the movement is more customised for the model. The NK24/1 is a new development but clearly based on the Sellita SW500, but with enough upgrades for the price point. However, the NK24/1 is still as thick as a Sellita SW500, so the Independence is chunky and almost 14 mm high. The Independence is priced at US$6,490 on a steel bracelet, and a bit more in titanium. The value proposition is good, but not quite great. While the execution of the Independence is as good as, or even a bit better, than many of its peers in the price segment, it can’t quite reach the value proposition of the leaders in the segment, namely Tudor and Longines, both of which enjoy economies of scale practica...
Monochrome
German brand Union Glashütte has a wide range of chronographs interpreted in different styles in its Belisar, Noramis and Averin collections. The latest Belisar Chronograph Sport is a new sub-collection which exchanges the more overt vintage styling of some former references for a more contemporary look and feel. Black is the key player of this […]
Monochrome
Norqain reaches an important milestone in its relatively short lifespan with the introduction of its first flyback chronograph movement. Known as the calibre 8K, the movement was developed in partnership with AMT and makes its debut inside the brand’s Independence collection with a skeletonised dial. As a brand that designs watches for outdoor adventures and […]
Fratello
Do you want to hunt with the hounds and run with the hare? In that case, Seiko has got you covered. What? Is that too cryptic for you? If you want an ultra-precise quartz watch that connects to GPS satellites circling the globe and takes its energy from light but looks like a traditional, mechanical […] Visit For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models to read the full article.
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Quill & Pad
When the dust settled on the 2016 Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction of stainless steel chronographs in Geneva, an extremely rare Rolex Oyster Zerograph Monopusher Flyback Chronograph stood out from the very strong field.
SJX Watches
First launched in 2021, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph now returns in an appealing combination of materials. The new model shares many similarities with its predecessor, namely the same case design and movement. But it’s now rendered in black ceramic and 18k white gold, matched with pink gold hands. Initial thoughts With the design having been refined over time, it is now clear that the negative reaction to the initial Code 11.59 collection was overdone. Granted, some criticism was justified with the original line-up, particularly for the time-only variants with plain dials (now replaced by guilloche). The most appealing versions of the Code 11.59 are the complications, particularly those with open-worked dials, like the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The open working of the dial transforms what was a design weakness into strength. Not only does the open dial showcase the mechanics and finishing of the movement, but it also complements the large, contemporary case. The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph a watch executed excellently with little to criticise – except for the case dimensions, which could be more compact. The Code 11.59 design looks larger than it is, so the case wears larger than it measures. Although the price is only available on request, it is in the region of CHF250,000. It’s a big number but comparable to similar complications from Audemars Piguet’s rivals like Vacheron Constantin. But unlike the competition,...
SJX Watches
After having expanded the line-up of its bestselling, vintage-inspired Carrera “Glassbox”, TAG Heuer now turns to something modern, the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport. Though it shares the Carrera moniker and TH20 movement, the new Extreme Sport chronograph is nothing like is retro counterpart. Available in titanium or 18k rose gold, the Carrera Extreme Sport is a big, bold chronograph with a skeletonised dial and integrated rubber strap. And at the top of the new collection is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, which is the most modern take on TAG Heuer’s affordable double complication of chronograph plus flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s offerings are now mostly either vintage-inspired and hyper-modern. The Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport definitely falls into the latter category. The open-worked dial is surprisingly intricate, with the X-shaped latticework finished with a combination of colour-treated frosted recesses and straight graining. With a skeletonised dial and chunky case, the Chronograph Extreme Sport feels similar to other watches in this segment, though the case is distinctive as the Carrera design. For anyone who feels TAG Heuer’s vintage-inspired watches are too traditional, this has the same in-house movement but presented in contemporary package. Like most watches of this style, the Chronograph Extreme Sport has an integrated rubber strap for a seamless clean profile, but never really fits as well as a convent...
Monochrome
Introduced in 2020, a year after the debut of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection, the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph’s combination of two complications with an openworked dial was designed to showcase the brand’s high-end watchmaking skills. The latest iteration of this model comes in a two-tone white gold and black ceramic case and an […]
Time+Tide
For Geneva Watch Days 2024, the Hölstein brand has brought two key releases: a new Aquis Chronograph and a limited edition Divers Sixty-Five.The post Oris returns with two hot releases, an all-new chronograph and a charitable limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Breitling marks its 140th anniversary with a new calibre, the B19. Based on its longstanding B01, the B19 adds a perpetual calendar on top to create the most complicated in-house calibre in the brand’s stable. The B19 is making its debut in three different models, all clad in 140th anniversary livery: the Premier B19 Datora 42, Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar, and Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar. Initial thoughts One of the most sophisticated chronograph constructions in the mid range of the price spectrum, the B01 gains a worthy upgrade with the perpetual calendar. Granted the additional complication adds substantial height to the case – all of the three models are well over 15 mm high – but that’s acceptable for a self-winding chronograph with perpetual calendar. Interestingly, the B01 base movement of the B19 has been upgraded over the standard version with some improvements (no doubt courtesy of Kenissi, which bought the rights to the B01 construction), though it’s uncertain if these will make their way into the plain B01. Though all three are identical mechanically, they look and feel different. The Super Chronomat is super chunky and the largest of the three, while the Navitimer and Datora are slightly more compact and definitely more retro in terms of style. The old-school, four-register calendar layout arguably suits the vintage-inspired style better. All three retail for US$59,000, which is par for the course for this double com...
Monochrome
Albishorn is a new independent brand born to create “imaginary vintage” – watches that could have existed, capturing the allure of the past while exploring the possibilities of what might have been. Inspired by a “what if” spirit, the brand’s inaugural model seeks to answer the question: “What would a modern regatta chronograph have looked […]
Fratello
Making its Geneva Watch Days debut, Norwegian independent brand Micromilspec has announced a new watch. Launched as a civilian model, the Milgraph is a serious military-inspired chronograph that packs a lot of functionality onto the wrist. It provides a column-wheel-operated chronograph movement with a GMT function in a blasted titanium case. At first glance, there’s […] Visit Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.
Hodinkee
A retooled chronograph with not-so-subtle tweaks rounds out the Aquis collection.
Fratello
I liked the Pontiac Jumping Chronograph instantly. I remember spotting Pontiac watches multiple times, but I never had an urge to jump on any. So I took this as an opportunity to also look briefly into this sonorous-sounding brand’s history. It took me some time to realize why the Pontiac Jumping got my attention so […] Visit #TBT A Suspiciously Familiar Pontiac Jumping Chronograph to read the full article.
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