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Time+Tide
To celebrate its 140th anniversary, Breitling has produced a limited run of three perpetual calendar chronographs in red gold.The post Breitling celebrates its 140th anniversary with a Navitimer, Chronomat, and Premier trio of perpetual calendars appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The M.A.D.1 has been a genuine phenomenon since it debuted three years ago. The M.A.D. brand, an offshoot of MB&F;, exists almost by accident. The debut watch was made available to MB&F; friends and family as an affordably priced “thank you” for years of partnership and support, and was eventually made available to the public. Turns out there are a lot of enthusiasts out there who are after a little taste of MB&F; but don’t necessarily have the nearly six figures (or more) for the genuine article. The M.A.D.1, in all of the variants we’ve seen since it launched, has offered fans of independent watchmaking a simulacrum of a much higher end experience, simply by wearing and owning something that originated from the mind of brand founder Max Busser. But, if we’re being honest, there have always been aspects of the M.A.D.1 that could use a little refining to make it more appealing as a watch that you’d actually want to wear day in and day out. The new M.A.D.1S seeks to solve some of those problems. First and foremost, it’s worth pointing out that isn’t the M.A.D.2, a watch that the brand says has been in the works for some time and will debut next year. Rather, this is an honest to goodness evolution of the original idea, and seems to address some of the common complaints from M.A.D.1 skeptics. The “S” here stands for slimmer, surely the most notable change from the original, which came in at a sometimes comical 18.8mm tall. The new version is just 15mm tall...
SJX Watches
The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents. One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon. One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate. With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.
Monochrome
Following the relaunch of Rado’s classic Captain Cook in 2017 (first introduced in 1962), the diver’s portfolio has expanded significantly with models like the Bronze Collection and Two-Tone Automatics. This latest variant celebrates summer with a nod to tennis and offers three different straps for a new vibe whenever the mood strikes. It’s not the […]
Fratello
What to make of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF Sport collection? To be perfectly honest, I hadn’t really thought about that question before I had a chance to go hands-on with two of the three new Tonda PF Sport Chronograph models. The trio was introduced earlier this year, adding three new colorways to the Sports Chronograph […] Visit Hands-On: Two Variations Of The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph In Steel to read the full article.
Monochrome
Back in 2008, Union Glashütte introduced the square-cased Averin. This bold chronograph watch looked quite different from most, thanks to a unique display for the date. A central three-handed pointer followed a three-line scale. Different, unique and quite fun for sure! Now though, the brand has decided to simplify things a little and morph the […]
Fratello
It shouldn’t be too hard to pick three favorites from all those sub-€10k watches out there, right? However, Thomas and Jorg have already cherry-picked some classics away from me. I also wanted to stay away from the other evergreens and come up with a few more original picks. That’s why it actually took me quite […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer to read the full article.
Monochrome
Omega won the coveted contract to time the Los Angeles Olympics in 1932, the first Olympic event to introduce the three-level winner’s podium, awarding athletes with gold, silver and bronze medals. Marking its 31st time at the rodeo this year as the Official Timekeeper of the Paris Olympics and Paralympic Games, Omega is in charge […]
Worn & Wound
Some people, if you were to ask them, would say that the most exhilarating moment in sports is the bottom of the ninth with two outs and the winning run at the plate. Others would say it’s penalty kicks at the World Cup, the final two minutes of a basketball game, or a last-minute Hail Mary. Ask me the same question, and you’ll get a different answer. For my money, the most exciting moment in sports comes at the end of a tennis match. Unlike soccer, football, or basketball, tennis isn’t a sport where you can run out the clock. To win, you have to earn the last point and, until that happens, a comeback is never out of the question. Despite matches sometimes lasting for hours, time isn’t explicitly a factor in tennis, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t matter, and there is no stronger evidence for that than the strong connection between some of the world’s leading watch brands and the sport of tennis. This past weekend, I got to experience that connection firsthand with a visit to the Mubadala Citi DC Open, where Rado was serving as the tournament’s official timekeeper. With Rado’s clocks tracking the passing time both on and off the court, there was no better host to welcome us to Rock Creek Park, or with whom to celebrate one of my favorite sports in one of my favorite cities. Though Rado’s relationship with tennis extends back much further (well over thirty years), this is only their second year partnering with the Mubadala Citi DC Open. But just because...
Worn & Wound
In Episode 86 of A Week in Watches, we take a look at three exciting releases from the past couple of weeks. Yes, it’s summer, so things are slowing down, but there has been a surprising amount of cool stuff to keep us interested. Timex surprised us with a space-age recreation of the Enigma, a fun, stylish, and affordable timepiece. Omega plays a game of metals with their newest bronze gold (and silver) watch to celebrate the 2024 Paris Olympics. And Furlan Marri goes for a spin with a vintage case shape. Check it out below and be sure to like and subscribe. Worn & Wound invites you to an excellent event on Saturday, August 17th in Oceanside, California. We’ve teamed up with the James Brand for a summer pop-up hosted in the James Brand’s new retail location. Running from 12pm to 6pm, the pop-up will include a showcase of their signature modern, minimal everyday carry products, as well as the last 10 units of their recent automatic GMT collab with Timex. Several excellent watch brands will also attend, including Artefkt, Brew Watch Co., Belmont Watch Co., Citizen, Lōcī, and Zodiac. It’s free, open to the public, and going to be a great time. Once again thats Saturday, August 17th from 12pm to 6pm PST at the James Brand HQ – 426 S Coast Highway, Oceanside, California. We hope to see you there! The post A Week in Watches Ep. 86 – Flying Saucers and Heavy Metal! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...
Fratello
Hello, and welcome! You’re listening to Fratello Talks. This week’s episode features RJ, Daan, and Nacho, three members of the Fratello team who join forces to wax poetic about some of their favorite affordable watches. This is the first volume of what will almost certainly become a recurring topic for the podcast. There are simply […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Affordable Watches Vol. 1 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It may be hard to believe, but it’s already been two weeks since the sun set on Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024. What’s not hard to believe is that, over three days in the Windy City, summer’s hottest watch fair hosted more visitors than ever before. With over 60 brands in attendance, it was no wonder the crowds were willing to brave a heat wave to experience what was unquestionably a very special show. Above all else, we want to thank everyone who made their way to Venue West for what was a very fun weekend, whether you walked, took the train, drove, or even flew to Chicago, it was a pleasure to have you all-Windup wouldn’t be what it is without the enthusiasts of all stripes who come out to enjoy the show. To those who weren’t able to make it to Chicago this summer, we’re certainly sorry to have missed you, and we hope this recap (and some of our others!) can give you a taste of what the weekend was about and inspire you to attend the next Windup Watch Fair. In the meantime, here’s a video recap to give you a sense of what to expect! An incredible group of brands anchored the energetic Fair; Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, and Oris-all of whom helped set the mood for a remarkable show and who we were thrilled to see return as lead sponsors. There is no doubt that their presence continues to help Windup level up, and we are incredibly grateful for their continued support. Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Windup couldn’t exist wit...
SJX Watches
A timepiece that pays tribute to the medals of the Olympic Games, the Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a riff on the vintage-inspired CK 859. It retains the same dimensions and design, but manages to incorporate all three medal materials – gold, silver, and bronze. The case is a bronze-gold alloy, while the dial is sterling silver with Clous de Paris guilloche. Initial thoughts Among the countless Olympic-themed watches – Omega launched its first 2024 Olympics watch over a year ago – the Bronze Gold Edition stands out for its unique use of materials. It’s a thoughtfully designed watch that celebrates Omega’s status as the timekeeper of Paris 2024. With no Olympics branding or emblems on the front, it’s not obviously an Olympics watch, but smartly captures the Olympic ideal by utilising the three alloys in the case and dial. At the same time, the Bronze Gold Edition is more visually interesting than the CK 859 that had a simple grained dial that was arguably too plain for the relatively wide dial. Priced at US$12,000, the Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a good value proposition. Though not novel, the vintage-inspired design is appealing and made more interesting with the guilloche silver dial. And as Olympics editions go, this one is subtle in terms of design yet entirely apt in terms of concept. A special gold alloy The model gets its name from Omega’s proprietary Bronze Gold, an alloy launched in 2022 with the Seamaster 300 that is actually low-cara...
Monochrome
Following three consecutive record years for the watch industry in 2021, 2022 and 2023, recovering from a complex situation in 2020 due to the pandemic, the watch industry in 2024 is not sending the same positive signs. Pessimistic notes in brands and groups’ financial reports, contraction of prices on the secondary market, ambient morosity, increasing […]
Hodinkee
Three colors. One great flying saucer shape.
Fratello
After a successful three-watch collaborative effort last year, the guys from Furlan Marri are back, remaining true to their creative nature. Instead of riffing off their existing catalog, the new Furlan Marri Disco Volante genuinely surprised me. Small brands tend to find a stable recipe for success and stick to it. And this is true […] Visit Hands-On With The New Furlan Marri Disco Volante - An Intricate Dress Watch With A Different Take On Vintage to read the full article.
Monochrome
Following the announcement yesterday of decreasing sales for the Swatch Group, particularly impacted by the industry’s challenging situation in China and South East Asia, it is time today for one of its main competitors, Richemont Group, to announce its sales for the first quarter ended 30 June 2024. Contrary to expectations, global sales are to […]
Fratello
Three is the magic number - or so they say. Many a watch enthusiast has boldly claimed that all you will ever need is the minimalist and perhaps mythical three-watch collection. While I do see the logic behind this, I struggle to accept that an arbitrary number should define my collection without at least trying […] Visit Size Matters: The Philosophical Guide To A Perfectly Proportioned Watch Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic has quickly become a welcoming canvas for the creativity of the IFL Watches team. For its newest the creation, the brand was inspired by the “three wise monkeys” and the timeless proverb they depict. In great IFLW tradition, the colorful dial is modified to portray the proverb in a fun way. […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Wise Guys Concept Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having just launched the Sunlit Ivory edition for its Singapore retailer, Parmigiani now unveils the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for ladies. Though it retains the same dimensions and details, including the hand-guilloché dial, the new Tonda PF is available with a variety of diamond settings. Three versions are being launched, including a top-of-the-line model with lines of diamonds along the entire circumference of the watch and bracelet. The entry-level model, on the other hand, is two-tone rose gold and steel with diamond indices. The two-tone Tonda PF Automatic 36mm on the wrist Initial thoughts Although the Tonda PF 36 mm is one of many integrated-bracelet sports watch, it has a bit more of dress watch element to its design, especially in this 36 mm size. It’s more compact without sacrificing the sporty aspect of the model, making it quite versatile – the fact that it’s a convincing ladies’ sports watch in this new livery confirms that. Priced from CHF31,900 to CHF78,900 depending on the version, the new Tonda PF 36 mm is similarly to the competition. With integrated-bracelet sports watches being premium priced in general – reflecting an earlier fad – Tonda PF is a value proposition compared to alternatives when considering fit, finish, and materials. That said, I wish it was priced more competitively considering that Parmigiani is a newish brand without a historical lineage of sports watches that the “Holy Trinity” brands possess. A familiar design The t...
Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin has always been associated with the sea, from its early days as a purveyor of precision marine chronometers to its current nautical-inspired collection, which includes classical references like the Marine Torpilleur or more contemporary, high-performance Divers. Offered in three case sizes, the more compact 39mm model returns with a stunning mottled neon blue […]
Time+Tide
We got our hands on three of the five limited edition releases - the Casiotron, Full Metal Square G, and the Baby-G.The post Casio celebrates 50 years in electric blue and fluted gold of the Sky and Sea appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Following a complete and welcomed overhaul of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Automatic collection in 2021, last month the brand introduced its latest updated models in the series, with five new Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and three Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT versions, with captivating new dials, slightly reduced case sizes, and powered by the […]
SJX Watches
An academic, horologist, and innovator, Urban Jürgensen is today best known for giving his name for the watch brand that’s now run by independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and his daughter, Venla. But Jürgensen was the most important watchmaker in Denmark in the early 19th century. He also developed a longstanding relationship with the most important Danish scientific society of the last three centuries, the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters (RDASL). This article explores the relationship that shaped his work on clocks and watches. A need for precision Being a horologist in Denmark at the turn of the 19th century was not necessarily a very noble job. A handful were highly regarded workmen, but none were on par with scientists on the social ladder. Astronomers were buying English precision clocks for observatories and sailors still navigated by the movement of celestial bodies[1]. But times were changing, chronometers were already known to the king and government of Denmark, and the benefit of precision timekeepers for various types of expeditions was already becoming known around Europe. Mudge & Dutton astronomical regulator clock. Previously in the Observatory of Copenhagen, now located in the offices of the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters. Image – The Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters/A.B.L. As international conflicts were at the time were a limiting factor in importing chronometers from foreign countries, attempts were made...
Fratello
Breitling takes off in formation with three Avenger B01 Night Mission chronographs for elite forces in United States naval aviation. Specifically, the first two are for the test squadrons the Bloodhounds, stationed at Point Mugu, California, and the Dust Devils, based in China Lake, California. The third edition is for the US Naval Academy in […] Visit Introducing: A Trio Of Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph Watches For US Navy Aviation Squadrons to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Since the 1930s, the Breitling name has been synonymous with aviation, and its watches are the preferred choice for pilots worldwide, from commercial to military aviation. To commemorate its 140th anniversary of pioneering accomplishments, Breitling is introducing three new Avenger Chronographs paying tribute to the United States Naval Academy and three legendary test squadrons. Each edition showcases the squadron’s unique emblem and color scheme, reflecting its heritage and valor with striking design and uncompromising functionality. The Dust Devils VX-31, based in the desert landscape of China Lake, California, will feature assertive red and black colors. This squadron is at the forefront of U.S. naval test flying, pushing aviation to new frontiers. The Bloodhounds VX-30 are experimental test pilots of the highest order, stationed at Point Mugu, California. They push the limits of naval aviation to advance its capabilities. Their colors will be understated gray and yellow. Patriotic blue and yellow will be used for the United States Naval Academy in Annapolis, Maryland. It is America’s flagship institution for naval training. Established in 1845, it has consistently produced top-notch leaders for the global naval community. Powering this new series is the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. Known for its strength and complexity, this movement offers approximately 70 hours of power reserve, a five-year warranty, and the respected COSC certification. The display case bac...
Teddy Baldassarre
Good things tend to come in threes. Turning a triple play in baseball, hitting a trifecta in horse racing, three of a kind in poker - all of these are cause for celebration for those who achieve them. Nailing a clutch three-pointer in basketball can send a home crowd into euphoria, and “third time’s the charm” is the motivating mantra for every budding success story battling obstacles and doubts. In horological terms, one of the most desirable trilogies can be found in the so-called “Triple Calendar,” a style of timepiece that occupies the sweet spot between the simplest of calendar complications - your date and day-date functions - and the higher and accordingly pricier echelons represented by annual and perpetual calendars. The Triple (also known as the “Complete”) is the simplest type of full-calendar function in that it displays all the information a wearer could need to determine the exact date - month of the year, day of the week, and date of the month- but also requires adjustment at the end of any month shorter than 31 days. (An annual calendar will make this adjustment for you in every month except February, while a perpetual calendar will adjust for every month all the way up until the year 2100 - always assuming, of course, that you, or whomever you pass the watch on to, keeps it wound all those years.) As I also point out in my guide to watch complications, these calendar indications are often, but not always, accompanied by a moon-p...
Fratello
At the end of last year, we had three Sartory Billard flying tourbillons in the office. I remember how impressed I was with those watches. Seeing them in person was also a good showcase of the bespoke work that Sartory Billard has become known for. The brand’s latest release is another interesting display of traditional […] Visit Introducing: Two New Sartory Billard SB07 Models With Striking Maki-e Dials to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Atelier Wen proudly makes its watches in China, but Andrew takes a look at a special one-of-three piece that was made, in part, in Geneva.The post Atelier Wen and Andrew rendezvous in Paris with a special Perception watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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