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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 23, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction

Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 22, 2022

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 “Tasti Tondi” Nov 18, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction

With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow Time+Tide
Omega spends 20 years Nov 16, 2022

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow

As watch collectors we all wish to one day stumble on a “barnyard” find. An old watch that’s dug up and sold at an estate sale by an owner who has no idea what it is actually worth. We hear the stories, and they always seem too good to be true. But they definitely happen and, … ContinuedThe post £80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 12, 2022

Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022

A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Nautilus and more from Patek, plus taste the AP Royal Oak rainbow Time+Tide
Patek Philippe made waves Oct 21, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Nautilus and more from Patek, plus taste the AP Royal Oak rainbow

This week certainly made watch lovers perk up, with a slew of new releases from two giants of the horological world. Patek Philippe made waves by unveiling a successor to the 5711 perhaps sooner than we thought. The new 5811/1G is not a vast overhaul of the 5711, the most notable changes including a case … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Nautilus and more from Patek, plus taste the AP Royal Oak rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Oct 3, 2022

Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

After looking at some of the highlights of independent watchmaking and unorthodox sports watches at Sotheby’s upcoming sale in Hong Kong, our final instalment covering notable lots is all about avant-garde complications – most of which are far more affordable than the original retail prices suggest. Naturally the selection is by big-ticket mega watches such as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, but it includes several more creative and intriguing watches that aren’t widely known. Amongst them are a pair of Harry Winstons with exceptionally complex reinterpretations of the tourbillon, along with a Ulysse Nardin featuring a pulley-operated retrograde hand. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2171: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Best know for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux (GP) counts far more complex iterations of the tourbillon amongst its offerings, including this tri-axial tourbillon. Though launched in 2014, the tri-axial tourbillon remains the most complicated tourbillon from GP. It consists of two nested tourbillon carriages with two different axes of rotation, which are then mounted onto a third rotating track that adds another dimension of rotation, resulting in the triple axis motion. Unsurprisingly, the tourbillon assembly is extremely complicated – it consists of almost 150 parts – and takes ...

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Sep 11, 2022

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty

The Tambour is Louis Vuitton’s most well-known watch design.  The fashion mega-brand has been slowly but surely establishing itself as a top-tier watchmaker since establishing Le Fabrique Du Temps, their dedicated watch manufacture, in 2014. Since then, several of Louis Vuitton’s watches have earned the Geneva Seal, a rarified standard of Swiss watchmaking reserved for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sep 5, 2022

Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon

As Cortina Watch celebrates its Golden Jubilee this year, it has progressively rolled out a series of commemorative editions, including a pair from Patek Philippe in the form of a unique Dome Clock (that’s unfortunately not for sale) and a special Calatrava ref. 5057G (that fortunately is). Now the Singapore retailer has taken the covers off its most extravagant anniversary edition yet, the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary. The anniversary lineup is made up of five unique versions of Franck Muller’s triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch, each set with 28.4 carats of baguette-cut gemstones. One of the five watches is complete – the others are still being put together – and is on display at an exhibition in Singapore taking place from now till September 13, 2022. The diamond-set version with a rainbow-finished movement that’s now on show in Singapore Initial thoughts Franck Muller is one of the leading practitioners of lavishly-jewelled complicated watches, while Cortina Watch has long been a champion of high-jewellery watches, so the anniversary Vanguard tourbillons make sense both ways. While the large-format bling has a niche appeal, the Vanguard Revolution 3 movement is interesting in itself. In fact, the movement is quintessentially Franck Muller in how it highlights the tourbillon. Here the tourbillon regulator is less about mechanics than visual spectacle. Not only does the tourbillon twi-axial and spherical, it also ...

How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? Time+Tide
Seiko become worth $1200? Resale Aug 28, 2022

How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200?

Resale value is a can of worms like no other, turning the discussion of wristwatches from a matter of taste into an investments debate. On one end of the spectrum are people who are happy to buy watches at their retail price, because they’ve got no plans to sell them as soon as they’re paid … ContinuedThe post How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We’ve found a sure-fire way to get a Rolex on your wrist (sort of…) Time+Tide
Rolex Aug 25, 2022

We’ve found a sure-fire way to get a Rolex on your wrist (sort of…)

There’s been much hand-wringing of late about the slow death of traditional men’s formalwear. The writing was already on the sartorial wall in 2019 when, for example, British retailer Marks and Spencer slashed their suit and formalwear ranges by 14 per cent while increasing their leisurewear lines by 12 per cent. And then came COVID-19. During … ContinuedThe post We’ve found a sure-fire way to get a Rolex on your wrist (sort of…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Farer’s star keeps rising – these 5 watches from the past year show why Time+Tide
Farer s star keeps rising Aug 22, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Farer’s star keeps rising – these 5 watches from the past year show why

It’s unclear as to when you should stop referring to a company as a “microbrand”, but the conundrum also brings a sense of sheepish pride. Farer’s growth has been exponential in the past few years, with their command of colourful yet classy releases helping to sell out almost all of their releases cross a stream … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Farer’s star keeps rising – these 5 watches from the past year show why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon “Cortina Watch” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 8, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon “Cortina Watch”

A great deal of meaning is placed on anniversaries in watchmaking and Cortina Watch is celebrating its Golden Jubilee in 2022 with a slew of limited edition watches and a very special clock. The latest timepiece for the Singapore retailer’s milestone anniversary is the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”. A variant of the Endeavour tourbillon, this 10-piece limited edition watch features the brand’s signature fumé dial in blue, along with a one-minute flying tourbillon equipped with an uncommon cylindrical hairspring.  Initial thoughts The watch combines the elegant and minimal design typical of Moser with the more contemporary that results from the cleanly open-worked movement. And despite being based on an existing model that was just introduced in March of this year, the Cortina edition is still impressive, largely thanks to the skeletonised movement. The cylindrical hairspring maybe be an anachronistic novelty rather than a practical innovation, but one that is rare in modern watchmaking, visually interesting, and historically significant, being rooted in 19th century marine chronometers. Moser aesthetics At 42 mm in diameter, the Cortina edition has the same dimensions as the standard model in white gold. In contrast, the Cortina version is in 18k red gold. Time is indicated on a domed sub-dial at 12 o’clock with the graduated “Funky Blue” finish that is synonymous with Moser. But unlike most othe...

Inside the Patek Philippe Service Centre in Singapore SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Service Centre Jul 28, 2022

Inside the Patek Philippe Service Centre in Singapore

Patek Philippe is one of the most revered watch brands but an outlier amongst its peers in relying almost entirely on independent retailers to sell its watches. Of the hundreds of Patek Philippe points-of-sale around the world, the brand owns just three. But the converse is true for its after-sales service where the brand is almost entirely vertically integrated. Patek Philippe will soon own and operate ten service centres in key cities around the world, backed up with four of its own watchmaking institutes. The Geneva watchmaker does this to fulfil its pledge of being able to repair and maintain “all timepieces ever made by Patek Philippe since production began in 1839”. Consolidation and consistency In pursuit of a uniformly high standard of service across the world, Patek Philippe is in the process of consolidating its service network from a peak of 59 service centres worldwide, some of which were run by independent retailers, to just ten key locations. Amongst the regional centres are one each in Germany, France, and the United States, but most will be located in Asia – the brand’s biggest market – in China, Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan, and Singapore. All of the ten will be run by Patek Philippe itself, or more specifically, its regional subsidiaries. The Singapore service centre, for instance, is run by Geneva Master Time (GMT), Patek Philippe’s subsidiary for Southeast Asia. GMT also has a smaller service centre in Bangkok, a necessity given that Thailand i...

VIDEO: Where does the second Bamford G-SHOCK rate on the Richter scale if the first was a 10? Time+Tide
Jul 18, 2022

VIDEO: Where does the second Bamford G-SHOCK rate on the Richter scale if the first was a 10?

OK, let’s cut to the chase here. The Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900BWD is going to sell out fast. Online sales begin on July 20, but if you want to get your mitts on one then don’t hang about. Remember, if you will, the first time these two brands collaborated together on the Bamford G-SHOCK 5610 in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Where does the second Bamford G-SHOCK rate on the Richter scale if the first was a 10? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph – if it’s quartz, may as well make it solar Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph – if Jul 5, 2022

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph – if it’s quartz, may as well make it solar

After introducing a slew of references with the facelifted Aquaracer Professional, many thought it would be a while until we saw even more additions, myself included. Only a few months later, TAG Heuer showed that they weren’t done with Aquaracers quite yet. The Aquaracer Solargraph was a totally unexpected entrant into the Aquaracer Professional 200 … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph – if it’s quartz, may as well make it solar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry Time+Tide
Jun 25, 2022

Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry

Producer/musician/songwriter/fashion mogul-hyphenate Pharrell Williams has seemingly done it all. Since his early days producing and writing songs for the likes of Mystikal, Pusha T, and Jay-Z as half of The Neptunes, he’s a guy that never stops. Besides two solo albums and five with his group N.E.R.D., just look at this small slice of the … ContinuedThe post Pharrell’s watch collection is as hot as a spacecraft upon re-entry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Damaged Rolex MilSub smashes estimate at auction to reinforce its grail watch status Time+Tide
Rolex MilSub smashes estimate Jun 16, 2022

Damaged Rolex MilSub smashes estimate at auction to reinforce its grail watch status

A 1970s Rolex MilSub that had been languishing in a chest of drawers for more than 25 years has sold at auction for £155,000. The sale that took place at Bonhams, in London’s New Bond Street, comfortably smashed the estimated value of £80,000 to £120,000. The anonymous owner from Scotland, took the rare item to … ContinuedThe post Damaged Rolex MilSub smashes estimate at auction to reinforce its grail watch status appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Bradley Taylor eventually returned Jun 14, 2022

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria

Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including  “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Automatic 46mm is a supersized tool watch that’s built for action Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Automatic May 23, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Automatic 46mm is a supersized tool watch that’s built for action

There are times in life when a standard amount of French fries just won’t do. Or a measly two pairs of socks. Why should you settle? Go big. You, my friend, require a silo of deep-fried starch sticks with extra ketchup. Likewise, a 24-pack bale of tube socks is the minimum quantity to meet your … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Automatic 46mm is a supersized tool watch that’s built for action appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece Unique SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece May 5, 2022

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece Unique

François-Paul Journe is perhaps the most successful living independent watchmaker – so successful that some of his watches have entered the same “hype” territory occupied by watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – which might mean that casting about for an overlooked F.P. Journe watch is a fool’s errand. But the brand does have a few hidden gems in amongst its past offerings, with the Zodiaque being one such watch. And Phillips’ upcoming Geneva sale has a one-off version that I had never seen in person until recently, the Zodiaque “Children Action” – which will be sold to benefit the titular children’s charity. The original Zodiaque. Image – Phillips The original Zodiaque debuted in 2004, just five years after the brand was founded, in a limited edition of 150 pieces. Despite its distinctive aesthetic and esoteric complication, the Zodiaque never enjoyed the success of its peers at the time, perhaps because of that very complication, which indicates the signs of zodiac with an annual calendar ring. Remember that in the years after the brand’s founding in 1999, F.P. Journe was merely a startup founded by a talented watchmaker with a peculiar personality; his watches weren’t exactly flying off the shelves. Yet Mr Journe still created this one-off watch for a good cause, which eventually became a yearly affair with the brand contributing unique watches to several charities, including subsequent timepieces for Children Action and of course the rec...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva, with F.P. Journe, Daniel Roth, and Voutilainen SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Daniel Roth May 3, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva, with F.P. Journe, Daniel Roth, and Voutilainen

Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva is a 201-lot sale that comprises a myriad of rare and unusual timepieces. The selection of independent watchmaking at The Geneva Watch Auction: XV is particularly interesting, including several early and historically significant timepieces from high-profile brands. We round up five of the most notable watches, ranging from an F.P. Journe Resonance from the year of its launch, as well as early, unique pieces from Daniel Roth and Kari Voutilainen, a skeleton, double-face tourbillon and Decimal Repeater respectively. The Daniel Roth double-face tourbillon that is possibly unique thanks to the sapphire dials on both the front and back Granted, several of the watches we’re covering below will finish well into six figures. But even if you are not planning to bid, they are worth learning about. We provide a close look at rare watches that are rarely encountered. That said, there’s an eminently affordable example of excellent, honest independent watchmaking in the sale: the Habring² Erwin “Star”, the first-ever SJX Edition that was launched last year to 10th anniversary of this site. Though a handful have sold on the secondary market since – including one that sold on Loupe This for US$15,400 – this is the first example to go under the hammer at a major, international auction house. The Geneva Watch Auction: XV takes place at Hôtel La Réserve in Geneva, with the first session happening on May 7 and the second session on the day...