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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Hot Take: The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli Fratello
Gerald Charles Jan 22, 2025

Hot Take: The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli

If you’ve never tried on a Gerald Charles watch, I suggest it. The shape is unconventional, but the fit is truly surprising. Now, to celebrate the brand’s 25th anniversary, the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli is here with reduced dimensions all around to further improve the wearing experience. I’ve probably mentioned it before, but the […] Visit Hot Take: The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli to read the full article.

Audemars Piguet Opens AP House Singapore SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Opens AP House Singapore Jan 22, 2025

Audemars Piguet Opens AP House Singapore

Audemars Piguet has just opened the doors of the first AP House in Singapore, situated in the Bar and Billiard Room of the historic Raffles Hotel. Opened in 1887, the Raffles is one of the grand hotels of Asia, having reopened in 2019 with only suites. Part of the hotel since the 19th century, the Bar and Billiard Room was until recently a restaurant, but its 1,000 m2, or almost 11,000 ft², is now home to an AP boutique, lounge, restaurant, and cafe all rolled into one. The latest AP House brings the total number of “houses” around the world to over 20, with other locations including Hong Kong, London, Los Angeles, Milan, New York, Shanghai, and Tokyo. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s home in Le Brassus and its surrounding natural beauty, the space also incorporates the distinctive flair of Singapore, including large panels made from trunks of the rain tree, a familiar sight around Singapore. Notably, AP House Singapore is home to the first-ever AP Café, which serves a menu that is Swiss but “reimagined through a Singaporean lens”, including Chicken Rice Club Sandwich and Gula Melaka Pain Suisse. “Designed to feel like a refined home, [AP House Singapore is] a haven where watch enthusiasts, newcomers, travellers, and anyone seeking a distinctive experience can gather, says Stefanie Ng, chief executive of Audemars Piguet South-East Asia, “Our doors are always open.” The AP Cafe Panels of rain tree wood decorate the walls AP House Singapore is also a sh...

Explained: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Jan 22, 2025

Explained: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time

Perhaps Louis Vuitton’s most famous complication, the Spin Time is a three-dimensional jump hour that was historically synonymous with the original, chunky Tambour case. Now Louis Vuitton has revamped both the complication and case to create the Tambour Taiko Spin Time. More compact and elegant than its predecessor, the Tambour Taiko is an expertly detailed case matched with restrained “dolphin grey” livery. Also employed in the new Convergence, the new case is home to an equally new family of in-house movements that will be the foundation of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking. All of the Tambour Taiko Spin Time models – there are four in all, plus two gem-set variants – are equipped with movements from this family. The line-up starts with the 39.5 mm base model, while the rest are all 42.5 mm. They include the Spin Time Antipode with a novel world time function, and the top-of-the-line Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon combining the jumping hours complication with a central tourbillon. All feature the signature Spin Time display of jumping cubes that indicate the current hour with a contrast-colour face. From left: Spin Time, Spin Time Air, Spin Time Antipode, and Spin Time Flying Tourbillon (not to scale) Initial thoughts Though I like very much the original, chunky Tambour, the redesigned case has a more subtle, refined appeal. The Tambour Taiko is far more wearable and boasts a noticeably higher level of finishing and detail, though it does lose some of th...

Introducing: The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Smoky Purple Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Jan 22, 2025

Introducing: The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Smoky Purple

In 2023, at Watches and Wonders Geneva, TAG Heuer proudly presented the new Carrera Chronograph Glassbox. We were immediately swept away by its 39mm size and the sexy curves on the edge of the dial. One year before, TAG Heuer released a limited-edition Monaco with a purple fumé dial inspired by some very early Heuer […] Visit Introducing: The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Smoky Purple to read the full article.

Tiffany & Co. Watchmaking Kicks Off with Bird on a Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Chanel watches Tiffany’s watch division Jan 22, 2025

Tiffany & Co. Watchmaking Kicks Off with Bird on a Flying Tourbillon

Having acquired Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH set about remaking the storied American jeweller. That extended to Tiffany’s watch division, which now debuts the first flagship creation under new ownership, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon. Led since 2021 by Nicolas Beau, the former chief of Chanel watches, Tiffany’s watch division turned to independent watchmaker Artime for the movement of the new tourbillon. Set with some 4 carats of diamonds, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon features an off-centre dial layout with a flying tourbillon at seven o’clock, along with a turquoise marquetry dial bearing a pair of diamond-set birds in flight. Initial thoughts One of Tiffany’s best-known jewellery designs, the Bird on the Rock has been a fixture in the brand’s catalogue for decades. A horological twist on the concept, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon is clearly part of an effort to position the design as a versatile icon that is Tiffany’s equivalent of the Serpenti. It’s a little bigger and thicker than the traditional ladies’ watch, though reminiscent of the MB&F; LM Flying T. The reason for the size is the AFT24T01 movement inside, which is more interesting than usual as it was developed for Tiffany & Co. by Artime, a recently established independent brand. The AFT24T01 has a high quality execution with appealing details, but it’s related to Artime’s own calibre for a men’s skeleton tourbillon, explaining its large size. As an opening effort, the Bird on a Flying...

Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Jan 21, 2025

Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions

Ever since the Big Bang Meca-10 came out in 2016, the watch has stood out thanks to its 10-day caliber with a Meccano-inspired architecture. This year, though the 10-day power reserve isn’t new, some other things are. The re-engineered Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 now measures 42mm in diameter and comes in three variations. You can […] Visit Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions to read the full article.

Zenith Expands the Defy Collection with the New Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Worn & Wound
Zenith Expands Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Expands the Defy Collection with the New Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

I’m long on the record as being an unabashed fan of the Zenith Defy. If you search this website or listen to old podcasts, you’ll find plenty of instances of me saying that the Defy is my all time favorite line of sports watches, period. For as long as the Defy has existed, it’s been a showcase for Zenith at their most adventurous, both technically and aesthetically, and a reflection of the larger watch landscape at the current moment, whatever that happens to be. I’ve often framed my discussions of the Defy around wishing for a resurgence of the collection, which through the years has too often been ignored in favor of other objectively more popular Zenith collections, but with the release of the new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton, it occurs to me that we really do, finally, have a fully fleshed out Defy collection, and Zenith is doing anything but ignoring it. The Defy Skyline effectively replaced the Defy Classic, a much loved (by enthusiasts) line of medium sized and quite thin sports watches that were available in both steel and ceramic cases. Running on Zenith’s Elite movements, they were design oriented pieces, and the skeletonized versions in particular really spoke to me. Zenith introduced a skeletonized version of the Skyline in 2023 (also at LVMH Watch Week), and now we have the chrono version, something that wouldn’t have been possible in the Elite-based Defy Classic. Part of the appeal of the Skyline, even in the non-chronograph variants, is the...

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint × Porsche Rallye Editions Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint × Porsche Jan 21, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint × Porsche Rallye Editions

TAG Heuer and Porsche are well-known names in motorsport. In 2023, the two teamed up for a pair of special TAG Heuer Carrera models to celebrate the original Porsche 911. The Carrera Chronosprint × Porsche now gets two more additions to the lineup. These watches celebrate the Porsche 911’s first rally success at the 1965 […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint × Porsche Rallye Editions to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox 39mm Purple Dial Review Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox 39mm Purple Dial Review

When TAG Heuer released the Carrera “Glassbox” in 2023 it was immediately received as one of the better vintage reinterpretations of the post-pandemic era. Why exactly is it so beloved? Well, first off, it was the first non-limited production or limited edition ‘Glassbox’ Carrera since the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Then came notable limited editions like the Skipper reissue and 160th anniversary edition. Secondly, the 39mm-wide case with that personality-packed, domed sapphire crystal (aka "Glassbox") struck a good balance between modern manufacturing/finishing and vintage-inspired design. Now as LVMH Watch Week 2025 kicks off, TAG Heuer has released a new Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" in a striking purple dial that is borrowed from a limited-edition Monaco from 2022. We haven’t seen too many purple-dial watches so far, so it’s savvy for TAG to get in on the ground floor of what could (or just as easily could not) be the next big color at the top of 2025. Personally, I think it looks great and could very well be the most attractive iteration of the Glassbox so far. While I love and admire TAG’s consistent dedication to its vintage-racing-inspired history, it’s so nice to see something that isn’t really steeped in any legacy story but rather just looks cool and stands on its own in the moment. The 39mm wide and 13.86mm-thick case of the Carrera Glassbox (with 100 meters of water resistance) has a 46mm lug-...

TAG Heuer Debuts a Pair of Purple Carrera Chronographs, Including a Glassbox Tourbillon, for LVMH Watch Week Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Debuts Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer Debuts a Pair of Purple Carrera Chronographs, Including a Glassbox Tourbillon, for LVMH Watch Week

LVMH Watch Week has quickly become a yearly staple on the release calendar for watch enthusiasts since its inaugural year in 2020. A mix of novelties and staple collections have graced the headlines acting as a special kickoff to the new year and this year is no different. What immediately caught my eye though was a pair of Carrera Chronographs sporting a new-to-the-model dial color. Enter the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph and Tourbillon in purple. Equipped with a smoky black-to-purple gradient backdrop, the Glassbox design family continues to grow. Following the release of the TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial in 2022, I had assumed that we would see this color trend carried throughout the rest of the catalog. With that model being discontinued and somewhat hard to come by, it is not surprising that the tourbillon model was also slapped with the LE designation. What is a surprise though is that the standard Carrera Chronograph is not limited and is entering standard production. This will hopefully give those lusting to add an excellent pop of purple into their collection the opportunity as these begin to trickle out to authorized retailers, though I do suspect that they will still be a bit hard to come by immediately. By far the standout feature of the watch is its appearance. Appearing almost black in medium to low light conditions, the purple breaks through in direct light playing with its sunray-brushed surface. The effect lends dimensionality and versatility to the design ...

TAG Heuer’s Stand-Out Carrera Gains a Speedometer-Style Dial SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Stand-Out Carrera Gains Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer’s Stand-Out Carrera Gains a Speedometer-Style Dial

Arguably TAG Heuer’s most interesting affordable chronograph, the Carrera Chronosprint features a unique variable-speed chronograph seconds that accelerates for the first 15 seconds of every elapsed minute, before slowing to complete the remainder of the 60 seconds. Now TAG Heuer has introduced a new pair of variants in partnership with Porsche: the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye that’s available in either steel or yellow gold. The new model sports a black dial modelled on the dash of the 1965 Porsche 911 that bears the traditional “Carrera” emblem at 12 o’clock. Initial thoughts The Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye demonstrates TAG Heuer’s strength in affordable chronographs. In technical terms, it’s the brand’s best chronograph in this price segment. The case is little large for my preference, but that’s typical of the current Carrera due to the thickness of the TH20 in-house movement. Although I am typically indifferent to brand partnerships - they are more often than not simply for marketing buzz - this particular collaboration makes sense given TAG Heuer’s historical presence in motorsports, which it has just returned to starting with the 2025 Formula 1 season. Retailing at US$10,250 in steel and US$24,600 in yellow gold, the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye is pricier than the base-model Carrera “Glassbox” by a margin of about 50%. While that might seem a lot, the uncharge US$3,000 or so is worth it given the TH20-08 “...

Gérald Genta Introduces the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal SJX Watches
Gerald Genta Jan 21, 2025

Gérald Genta Introduces the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

Gérald Genta distinctive, punkish “urchin” wristwatch gains a striking new look with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal. Each of the 137 studs on the case carries a fire opal, while the dial is in orange carnelian that echoes the gemstones’ hue. Mined from Mexico’s volcanic regions, fire opals stones derive their characteristic yellow, orange, or red pigmentation from water trapped in cooling lava. Initial thoughts Although the Gérald Genta brand was revived in 2023, well after the iconic designer’s passing in 2011, the brand has stuck closely to his original vision and style. The modern-day Oursin is a faithful remake of the 1994 original, a little larger in size but retaining all of the original’s quirky details, including the facetted crystal. Unlike the fairly muted models unveiled last year, the new Oursin is bright and bold. While it incorporates gemstones and colours that found on the original (which was also fairly muted), the orange hue feels perfectly appropriate for the design. It is an apt evolution of the original, and the late Genta would have approved. Fire opals While the new Oursin differs from Genta’s original with its fire opals and carnelian, the core design elements remain faithful to his blueprint. Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the case measures 36.5 mm in diameter and 9.64 mm in thickness, making it slightly larger than the original. The case is studded with 137 fire opals, each individually secured with 18k yellow gold pins. An orange...

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre. The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel. Initial thoughts Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough). That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value. Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably...

Introducing – Greubel Forsey Unveils Hand Made 2, the Second Step in the Brand’s Pursuit of Hand Watchmaking Monochrome
Greubel Forsey Unveils Hand Made 2 Jan 21, 2025

Introducing – Greubel Forsey Unveils Hand Made 2, the Second Step in the Brand’s Pursuit of Hand Watchmaking

While most watches made by Greubel Forsey are known to be some of the most impressive on the market regarding execution and finishing, today we’re looking at something even more special. Back in 2019, the independent watchmaker released Hand Made 1, a highly classical watch (at least compared to other, bolder creations) with a focus […]

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 Jan 21, 2025

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2

In a fortuitous turn of events, Mark Zuckerberg was spotted with the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 just a week ago – just in time for the debut of the Hand Made 2. Unlike its predecessor that was equipped with a tourbillon, the Hand Made 2 is “merely” a three-hander with a power reserve indicator, presented in a more compact case that’s just under 41 mm. But like the first model, the Hand Made 2 is mostly made with traditional, hand-operated tools – specifically, 96% of the watch is made this way, an endeavour that requires 5,000 hours of work according to Greubel Forsey. (NB: The watch pictured is a prototype and is not perfectly clean.) Initial thoughts The Hand Made 2 is essentially the Hand Made 1 scaled down in every respect – dimensions, complexity, and price – except for the manual production methods and fine finishing, which remain impressive and outstanding. Even at arm’s length the quality of the Hand Made 2 is obvious. Up close, it is evident all of the details have been properly taken care of. As it was with the Hand Made 1, the second edition is also impressive for what cannot be seen – tolerances and precision that are equivalent to Greubel Forsey’s serial-production watches made with automated equipment. Achieving that with manual equipment is impressive and no doubt explains a good deal of the price. Surprisingly, the Hand Made 2 looks more complicated than its predecessor, despite doing away with the tourbillon. That’s because the archit...

Introducing – The Understated Matte Finish of the Rado True Square Skeleton Monochrome
Rado True Square Skeleton Rado Jan 21, 2025

Introducing – The Understated Matte Finish of the Rado True Square Skeleton

Rado began experimenting with innovative materials in the early 1960s, resulting in the Diastar and its futuristic helmet-like case made from scratch-resistant carbide tungsten. Since 1986, Rado has employed high-tech ceramic in its creations, obtaining a broader palette of colours and finishes over the years. The True Square, a collection launched in 2020, perpetuates Rado’s […]

Fratello On Air: Our Favorite Divers From The ’60s, ’70s, And ’80s Fratello
Jan 21, 2025

Fratello On Air: Our Favorite Divers From The ’60s, ’70s, And ’80s

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we discuss our favorite divers from the ’60s, ’70s, and ’80s. We also offer more affordable alternatives. Enjoy this lengthy episode! For our listeners, the watch content begins after 27 minutes. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie […] Visit Fratello On Air: Our Favorite Divers From The ’60s, ’70s, And ’80s to read the full article.

Scarring Up Our Watches: Hitting A Kangaroo On A Motorbike With My Tudor Heritage Ranger Fratello
Tudor Heritage Ranger One Jan 21, 2025

Scarring Up Our Watches: Hitting A Kangaroo On A Motorbike With My Tudor Heritage Ranger

One of the best elements of wearing watches is forging memories with them. Sometimes, though, those memories can be a bit traumatic and leave true battle scars on the watch! Today, I’ll share how my Tudor Heritage Ranger survived a serious motorcycle accident and came away with some scars. When we think of watches showing […] Visit Scarring Up Our Watches: Hitting A Kangaroo On A Motorbike With My Tudor Heritage Ranger to read the full article.

H. Moser CEO Ed Meylan on Innovation, Collaboration, and the Building a Brand Identity Worn & Wound
H. Moser CEO Ed Meylan Jan 20, 2025

H. Moser CEO Ed Meylan on Innovation, Collaboration, and the Building a Brand Identity

What is one supposed to make of H. Moser & Cie.? Ask a room full of collectors to describe the brand, and there are a handful of responses you’re sure to get: exciting, modern, and fun being foremost among them. Moser, under the watchful eyes of the Meylan family, has cultivated a unique offering, one characterized by a contemporary, streamlined (pun regrettably intended) catalog and an eye toward collaboration. Whether you’re wondering at one of the brand’s latest high-complication pieces or throwing on any of their impeccable time-only sports watches, it’s hard to deny that few brands manage to balance an appetite for solid, wearable, everyday watches with elegantly implemented complications, so nimbly as Moser. Even fewer manage to accomplish this while navigating the self-serious world of watches with the same sense of humor and energy that H. Moser & Cie. has under the stewardship of the Meylan family.  I was lucky enough to spend an hour with Edouard Meylan, the CEO of H. Moser & Cie., to talk about everything Moser, and right off the bat, he acknowledged this tightrope. “I think we went further into this idea of bringing those two worlds together [the traditional and the modern]. Staying very traditional, like the movements and those kinds of things,” he explained, “but at the same time bringing a touch of more modern, more us. I couldn’t picture it back then I knew I wanted to bring that.” “I remember the first Baselworld, it was like the first...