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NFL quarterback Deshaun Watson gifts 15 of his teammates $13.6K Hublot Big Bang watches Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang watches Jan 31, 2021

NFL quarterback Deshaun Watson gifts 15 of his teammates $13.6K Hublot Big Bang watches

The Super Bowl is fast approaching, and as a New Yorker it pains me that Tom Brady and the Tampa Bay Buccaners will be battling it out with Kansas City for the championship. While the Houston Texans did not make it all the way this year, I can imagine at least 15 people in the … ContinuedThe post NFL quarterback Deshaun Watson gifts 15 of his teammates $13.6K Hublot Big Bang watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black Time+Tide
Bulgari Hublot Jan 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black

It’s late January, which means it’s LVMH Watch Week, an event where the watch departments of Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith unleash their new novelties for the year. For Hublot in 2021, we enjoyed a number of updates to existing collections, including a totally new colour of sapphire crystal in the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic, a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING:  Seiko get their 140th birthday party started with the Seiko SSH083 & SPB205 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Jan 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: Seiko get their 140th birthday party started with the Seiko SSH083 & SPB205

Back in November, we were treated to two new releases from Grand Seiko to honour the founding of the Seiko brand. As we covered, 2021 marks the 160th anniversary of the birth of founder Kintaro Hattori and the 140th anniversary of the birth of the Seiko Corporation. Hattori, at the age of 21, would create … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Seiko get their 140th birthday party started with the Seiko SSH083 & SPB205 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Collection is updated and ready for 21st century space flight Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Jan 28, 2021

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Collection is updated and ready for 21st century space flight

To update an icon, Omega have always understood that the path must be evolution rather than revolution. So what did they do on the first Speedy Tuesday of 2021? They showed the world what the next step was down the path of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Eight new references were announced, including options in Sedna gold … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Collection is updated and ready for 21st century space flight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Two Dials Means Double The Pleasure (Plus Video) Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB Kind Jan 26, 2021

De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Two Dials Means Double The Pleasure (Plus Video)

There’s a new double-faced superstar in town: the De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon. Co-founder and chief watchmaker Denis Flageollet wanted to create a watch with two distinct identities, incorporating two sets of brand “DNA” on the same watch. He also wanted to use the brand’s signature, patented floating lugs to their fullest extent. Elizabeth Doerr thinks Flageollet succeeded in his goals and explains why here.

Hublot Unveils the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Jan 26, 2021

Hublot Unveils the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black

Fresh off the press at LVMH Watch Week – which like most trade fairs was entirely online – the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black is one of the highlights amongst all the new launches. A collaboration with the Japanese contemporary artist known for his anime-inspired “superflat” creations, the Classic Fusion Murakami is a time-only watch with a twist: free-spinning, diamond-set petals that bring Mr Murakami’s “smiling flower” to life. Initial thoughts In photos the Murakami edition seems, at a glance, dull and static, in contrast to Mr Murakami’s signature style. But the watch glitters and spins, and despite not being serious haute horlogerie, it is cool and compelling. When I first heard that Hublot would be collaborating with Mr Murakami, I expected it to be dressed in psychedelic colours, so the muted All Black livery was a surprise. But as it turns out, it was Mr Murakami’s idea. Commenting the launch announcement, he said, “The one thing I did request was to go all black on our first collaboration… because the very first impression I had when I learned about Hublot was its signature black rubber [strap].” Still, the Murakami edition manages to convey the artist’s exuberant style without using colour, but instead relying on motion, texture, and the smiling flower emblem. And the all-black aesthetic makes sense given the diamonds and large size of the watch. The sparkle of the stones contrast well against the brushed bezel and bl...

Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 25, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver

Launched alongside the Chronomaster Sport at LVMH Watch Week, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is a limited edition that’s a nod to Zenith’s long history of aviation watches – with a twist. While the style is the 1920s-inspired look typical of Zenith’s Pilot range, the new chronograph is dressed entirely in sterling silver, giving it a bright finish. Inspired by the aluminium bodies of vintage aircraft, the silver case will darken with time as the alloy oxidises, but the dial will remain pristine, protected by the case. Initial thoughts Zenith has been on a tear in recent years, introducing a diversity of watches, ranging from the Chronomaster Revival A385 to the mind-boggling Defy Inventor. Few of the new launches were Pilot models, resulting in a quiet spell for the line, a shame considering Zenith’s storied heritage in aviation watches. The new chronograph will no doubt do its part to revive the line. Pilot’s watches are often aesthetically conservative – not so here. The Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is meant to stand out on the wrist, and I’m all for it. I had the opportunity to interact with a prototype, and the riveted, silver dial looks even better in the metal. The brushed surface has a shimmering quality that changes under different light, allowing it to catch the eye from every angle. Clad in silver The Chronograph Silver is cased in sterling silver, or 925, indicating it is 92.5% silver by weight. While not the first Pilot ...

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “IWC Racing”: Haute Horlogerie Contrasts Quill & Pad
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Jan 24, 2021

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “IWC Racing”: Haute Horlogerie Contrasts

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon “IWC Racing” edition piques Joshua Munchow's interest thanks to its connection between time, flight, and mechanics. This latest iteration of the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon is new for 2021 and provides an extremely attractive proposition for the historically minded pilot’s watch fan. Here Joshua explains why.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport and El Primero 3600 SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 21, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport and El Primero 3600

Two years ago, when Zenith celebrated the semicentennial of the El Primero – the world’s first high-beat, automatic chronograph movement – a successor to the long-running workhorse was quietly unveiled as part of a three-piece set. Designed from ground up as a brand-new movement, the El Primero 3600 was equipped with modern tech and additional features, including twin chronograph seconds hands. But the movement never made it to regular production, until now. The El Primero 3600 finally becomes accessible with the new Chronomaster Sport, a new line of sports chronographs featuring a shiny black-ceramic bezel and two dial options. Initial thoughts The debut of El Primero 3600 two years ago was noteworthy, but it was lost amongst the tasteful remakes – case in point – created to commemorate the anniversary. Now that the vintage remakes have reached their end with the final instalment announced just recently, the new movement can take the stage. The El Primero 3600 is certainly an impressive upgrade and a completely different animal compared to the original El Primero. Most notable is the addition of a lightning central seconds that travels six times as fast, completing one revolution every 10 seconds, allowing it to measure 1/10th of a second. That truly unleashes the full potential of the El Primero movement, which runs at 10 beats a second, or 36,000 beats per hour. Technical ingenuity notwithstanding, the watch itself looks good, albeit slightly derivative. T...

SPOTTED: 5 Instagram shots that show the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is even better in the wild Time+Tide
Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Jan 21, 2021

SPOTTED: 5 Instagram shots that show the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is even better in the wild

We’ve all been there. It’s inevitable as a watch collector. You see a new watch that’s been released and immediately fall in love with it. You can’t get it out of your head, until you finally give in, and track one down in the metal. But once you have it in your hands, you realise … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: 5 Instagram shots that show the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection is even better in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman Time+Tide
Jan 19, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman

When we think of watchmakers, we immediately think of European and Japanese artisans. But to ensure our watches remain in tip-top shape, watchmakers around the world and of varying backgrounds all work hard to ensure the immortality of our timepieces. Earlier this month AFP via Prestige shone a spotlight on 52 year-old Youssef Abdelkarim, a … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vianney Halter Deep Space Resonance Triple-Axis Tourbillon: Even Gravity Won’t Bring It Down! Quill & Pad
Jan 18, 2021

Vianney Halter Deep Space Resonance Triple-Axis Tourbillon: Even Gravity Won’t Bring It Down!

All the delicious details of this mechanical birthday cake of horology base upon the concept of acoustic resonance: Vianney Halter's Deep Space Resonance comprises a triple-axis tourbillon paired with resonating balance wheels and a far-out look. Joshua Munchow digs into the nitty-gritty of this brand-new timepiece by the independent watchmaker and reports back from somewhere in the furthest reaches of the galaxy.

Hautlence Debuts the Spherical, 3D Jump Hour Once Again SJX Watches
Hautlence Debuts Jan 13, 2021

Hautlence Debuts the Spherical, 3D Jump Hour Once Again

Founded almost two decades ago, making one of the pioneers in contemporary watchmaking, Hautlence has long specialised in unusual, or even avant-garde, time display, like the chain-link hours in the Vortex. Boasting a three-dimensional spherical indicator, the new HL Sphere 02 is even more impressive, reimagining the familiar jumping hours complication as few have managed to do. A follow up to the original HL Sphere introduced last year, the HL Sphere 02 is essentially the same watch dressed more formally, replacing the muted blue-and-grey palette of the original version with a solid pink-gold dial. An animation of the transition from 10 to 11 o’clock Initial thoughts Though the HL Sphere 02 isn’t new, its spherical jumping hours remains novel and interesting. While conventional jumping hours operate on a single plane, relying on a flat disc that moves once an hour, the watch interprets the complication in a throughly different manner that is unique in watchmaking. In fact, the spherical jump hour is more impressive than Hautlence gets credit for. It is arguably on par with inventions like Urwerk’s satellite-cube time display, but because Hautlence isn’t as prominent as its peers – perhaps a consequence of changing management over the years – the brand’s complications don’t get as much recognition as they otherwise should. The HL Sphere 02 is almost identical to the original – the white gold, TV-shaped case and movement are the same – with the only ...

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref. 6301P-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref 6301P-001 Jan 12, 2021

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref. 6301P-001

Patek Philippe closed 2020 in a big way with the launch of the Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 in November. The most complicated wristwatch unveiled by the Geneva watchmaker in recent years, the Grande Sonnerie is a grande and petite sonnerie carillon. With last year’s Geneva watch fair cancelled, the brand unveiled its new releases one by one throughout the year, starting with the limited-edition Calatrava ref. 6007A in June, allowing each new model to be in stores as soon as it was announced. The Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 was no different, albeit on a tiny scale, with reputedly only a handful available in each region – all sold before the launch. Initial thoughts An impressively large watch, the ref. 6301P feels like a modern-day grand complication. The size is a consequence of the wide and complex movement, so the watch has good proportions all things considered. But the styling is classical, incorporating many elements from vintage Patek Philippe watches – and also the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph – which gives it an elegant appearance, something helped by the relative thinness of the case. Still, it is clearly a contemporary watch – Patek Philippe rarely does exact remakes of vintage watches – with details that mark it out as such, including the recessed case band and the luminous hands. The fact that the watch is contemporary is evident in the movement, which looks and functions like a modern calibre, reflecting Patek Philippe’s measured,...

Ressence Unveils the Last in the 10th Anniversary “X” Series Tetralogy SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils Jan 12, 2021

Ressence Unveils the Last in the 10th Anniversary “X” Series Tetralogy

Though just 10 years old, Belgian watchmaker Ressence has already made its mark with its sleek, inventive designs centred on a planetary time display – which is fun and surprisingly legible – and an ingenious, oil-filled case. To mark its 10th anniversary, the brand rolled out a quartet of limited-edition “X” series watches, which has just reached its conclusion with the launch of the final instalment, the Type 1 Squared X. The Type 1 Squared X Each of the anniversary watches was based on a standard model, but gently and cleverly tweaked to distinguish them. A recurring theme throughout the quartet is green dial, albeit in different shades, and more notably, quirky technical modifications. So the new Type 1 Squared X is clad in metallic, olive green while having a novel day and night indicator that relies on coloured ceramic ball. The X series (from the top): Type 1 Squared X, Type 5X, Type 3X, and Type 1 Slim X Initial thoughts Ressence watches are appealing in a quirky way. Though entirely mechanical, they evoke the liquid-crystal displays of smart watches. Many of the brand’s watches are modern, looking cool but somewhat cold in their black or grey metallic colours. The Type 1 Squared X, however, lightens its tone with the green dial. And it is made all the more intriguing with its day and night indicator developed with the neuroscientist at Harvard, a string of colourful ceramic ball that Ressence dubs the “Time by Colour” system. Nevertheless, the Type ...

RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields? Time+Tide
Jan 11, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields?

Magnets are useful for many things. They’ve helped decorate the outside of countless fridges, inspired the name of a seminal New York rap group (the Ultramagnetic MCs), and given Wile E Coyote various half-baked ideas in his doomed attempt to catch Road Runner. But magnets are less benign when it comes to your mechanical watch. … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance SJX Watches
Jan 8, 2021

Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance

After a seven-year hiatus since the launch of his last watch, Vianney Halter is back with the Deep Space Resonance. Unveiled in prototype form but slated for delivery in summer 2021, the Deep Space Resonance is an impressively complex watch – the tourbillon assembly alone is 371 parts – that builds on the Deep Space Tourbillon of 2013. Like its predecessor, the new watch is also a triple-axis tourbillon, but now equipped with a pair of hairsprings and balance wheels within the tourbillon – both of which beat in acoustic resonance according to Mr Halter. Initial thoughts The Deep Space Resonance is a unique complication, to a degree. It’s a first in combining a triple-axis tourbillon with double balance wheels beating in acoustic, rather than mechanical, resonance. And the incorporation of the acoustic resonance phenomenon is also a first in watchmaking as far as I know, though it is somewhat fuzzy in terms of how it enhances the functioning of the watch. The tourbillon and its driving wheels The closest anyone else has come to this is Beat Haldimann with his H2 that has a flying tourbillon rotating on a single plane but with twin, mechanically-resonating balance wheels. Still, arriving as it is in 2021, the Deep Space Resonance feels overdue. The best known mechanical-resonance wristwatches came long before: the Haldimann H2 made its debut in 2005, while the better-known F.P Journe Resonance in 2000. And the Philippe Dufour Duality, which relies on twin balance w...

Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton Time+Tide
Grand Seiko launched Jan 7, 2021

Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton

In spite of some not inconsiderable distractions, there were some pretty decent watches released in 2020. Quite a few of them actually. Omega relaunched their serially produced caliber 321, Bulgari executed the Octo Finissimo in steel, Grand Seiko launched an entirely new escapement in their SLGH002 and DOXA brought their most iconic design into the … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Jan 6, 2021

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar

Having revived the Master Control line early last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre largely translated models from the 1990s into the present day, save for one all-new watch, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. The Chronograph Calendar features two complications that JLC long offered individually, but never combined before – the chronograph and triple calendar with moon phase. Taking its cues from the bestselling, 1990s collection of the same name, the Master Control is a gentleman’s watch in several flavours, all defined by a subtly retro style. Though a new model, the Chronograph Calendar retains the same style, while having a movement that’s the brand’s longstanding chronograph calibre with the addition of its well-known triple calendar module. The “Master Control” moniker originated from the fact that watches in the original collection were all tested for 1000 hours Initial thoughts Possessing a solid, workmanlike build and finish, the Chronograph Calendar sticks to the ageless Master Control look of the 1990s, more or less. While a couple of details could be improved – one reasonably expects more of the movement given JLC’s history – the Chronograph Calendar is good overall. The Calendar Chronograph in rose gold (left) and steel Visually, the Calendar Chronograph is a largish watch, though it doesn’t measure as such. At 40 mm wide and 12.05 mm high – close in size to the Rolex Daytona – the Chronograph Calendar is moderately sized, but the desig...

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Jan 5, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend

This morning a new generation of Omega Speedmaster Professionals were announced, but that was not the only legendary chronograph revival and rejuvenation introduced today. Zenith has unveiled a new tribute to one of their chronographs from 1969: the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Gradient Dial. Game-changers in their day, Zenith produced three watches that were not … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.