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Results for Vallée de Joux

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 4, 2024

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva

With the current popularity of independent watchmaking, the proportion of auction catalogues dedicated to the genre has grown. At the same time, the obvious slowdown in the market means prices have moderated. The result is a more diverse offering of independent watchmaking, and at lower prices than 18 months ago. The upcoming Phillips’ Geneva auction illustrates this. We take a look at some of the notable examples of independent watchmaking, including a Middle East edition from F.P. Journe, a glow-in-the-dark Voutilainen World Timer, and a trio of time-only watches that are all interesting yet entirely different from Philippe Dufour, Paul Gerber, and Charles Frodsham. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX takes place over two days on May 11 and 12 the Hotel President in downtown Geneva (a change from the traditional venue of La Reserve). The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. 62 – F.P. Journe lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante Eastern-Arabic numerals Notably good value in titanium, the lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante is less affordable in platinum but certainly more special, and much more substantial. While the titanium and gold versions are relatively conventional in terms of aesthetics, the platinum version is unusual with its purple dial that works surprisingly well. Like most F.P. Journe movements, the calibre inside is slim, a feat considering the additional height required for the rattrapante mechanism. The split-seconds is done in the traditional manner with...

New: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith Deployant
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith DEPLOYANT May 4, 2024

New: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith

The TAG Heuer Formula 1, first launched in 1986, was a popular and accessible sports watch that many from the '80s and '90s would recognize. TAG Heuer has recently introduced the Formula 1 Kith Limited Edition, which is a true-to-original reissue of the Series 1, co-created with the streetwear brand Kith. This special edition comes in ten vibrant versions, and it’s uniquely branded as “Kith Heuer,” signifying the partnership. The Kith logo takes the place of the traditional “TAG” in the watchmaker’s emblem, marking this collaboration.

A Technical Perspective - Understanding The Art of Guilloché Dials and Examples of Guilloché Patterns Monochrome
May 3, 2024

A Technical Perspective - Understanding The Art of Guilloché Dials and Examples of Guilloché Patterns

Known under the French name Guillochage, engine turning consists of adorning wood or metal with intertwined lines. It is an engraving technique that originated over five centuries ago. Initially, it was applied to soft materials such as wood and ivory before being adapted to metals, particularly for the craft of goldsmiths and silversmiths. Allegedly first […]

Citizen Eco-Drive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Eco-Drive Guide May 3, 2024

Citizen Eco-Drive Guide

The history of the watch industry is rife with groundbreaking technological developments that came about through necessity. Dive watches’ unidirectional rotating bezels were developed to save the lives of scuba divers by ensuring they wouldn’t misread their time underwater and inadvertently run out of oxygen. Luminous paint on watch dials was invented so wearers could read the time in the dark or underwater. Antimagnetic innovations in watch movements came about as everyday life in the 20th century exposed us to more and more electromagnetic fields that affected our watches’ efficient running. One of the more recent examples is Citizen’s now-famous and still-exclusive Eco-Drive movement - which emerged as a direct result of the worldwide energy crisis that galvanized environmentalists in the 1970s. Citizen pocket watch from 1924 Citizen, like all watch companies that trace their history back to the early 20th Century, was a traditional watchmaker long before it became an innovator in high-tech, electronic timekeeping - founded in 1918 in Japan, as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute. The name “Citizen” first appeared on one of the company’s pocket watches in 1924, an indication that Shokosha, which officially became Citizen Watch Company in 1930, would be devoted to making timepieces that were accessible to “all citizens” of Japan, and eventually, of the world. By the 1970s - with several milestones under its belt, including the first calendar wat...

Fears and Topper Collaborate Once Again for the Limited Edition “Silver Sector” Worn & Wound
Fears May 3, 2024

Fears and Topper Collaborate Once Again for the Limited Edition “Silver Sector”

If you’ve been following Worn & Wound for any length of time, it should come as no surprise that we’re big fans of Fears Watch Company. Since the brand’s revival - Fears released its first 21st-century watch in 2016, though the name has been around since 1846 - they have consistently captured enthusiast attention thanks to a series of refined, eye-catching, and completely modern releases. Suffice it to say, when Fears tells us something new is coming down the pike, we tend to pay attention. Today, they’ve re-teamed with Topper Jewelers, the small family-owned Silicon Valley jeweler known for their stellar collaborations and limited editions, for what just may be one of their best releases so far, the Fears Brunswick 38 Topper Edition ‘Silver Sector.’ The Silver Sector is a slight departure from the two previous collaborations we’ve seen from the partnership between the Bristol-based watchmaker and Topper, trading the California dials that set earlier releases apart for a clean and contemporary sector dial with sub-seconds inspired by watches produced by Fears in the ‘30s and ‘40s. The dial is finished with applied markers and Fears’ signature skeleton syringe hands. It’s a new look for Fears, and it works brilliantly, offering a clean, monochromatic look without sacrificing any of the brand’s signature visual flair. And it’s gonna make for some killer wrist shots and I desperately want to see how this watch photographs through something like ...

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Goes Pink in Miami, with the New Streamliner x Alpine Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Goes Pink May 3, 2024

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Goes Pink in Miami, with the New Streamliner x Alpine

A fortnight ago, we covered the release of Moser’s Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton to celebrate its official timekeeping partnership with Alpine Motorsports. First appearing with a shade of blue that marks the Moser and Alpine Motorsports partnership, the next model in the pit box flies the pink livery of the BWT Alpine F1 Team competing […]

The Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Watches Founded May 2, 2024

The Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches

Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has long been the gold standard of high watchmaking, pioneering complications and design elements that are now found widely throughout the watch industry - from the first keyless winding system in 1845 to the first annual calendar wristwatch in 1996, with many other innovations and historic timepieces in between. Throughout the maison’s long and prestigious history, watches from Patek Philippe have proven to be among the most coveted and valuable on the watch-auction circuit, making up nine of the 10 most expensive watches ever sold and 14 of the top 20. What are these record-breaking Patek Philippe timepieces, what makes them so special, and exactly how much money did they fetch when the hammer came down? Below, we count down the top 10, ending with the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. Patek Philippe Gold Chronograph Ref. 1527 ($5.709 million, 2010, Christie’s) Sold at Christie’s in 2010 and still holding its spot in the top 10 most expensive Patek Philippe watches, this exceedingly rare perpetual calendar chronograph with a yellow-gold tonneau case more than doubled its pre-auction estimate. Its matte silver dial features applied Arabic numerals, a tachymeter scale, and three subdials for chronograph minutes, running seconds, date, and moon-phases. Its movement is stamped with the prestigious Geneva Seal, attesting to its elite level of finishing as well as its chronometric performance. 9. Patek Philippe Titaniu...

So, You’re Considering Getting Into The (Not So) Scary World Of Pocket Knives Worn & Wound
May 2, 2024

So, You’re Considering Getting Into The (Not So) Scary World Of Pocket Knives

There’s no denying that even considering carrying a knife may be a bit scary. Will people stare at you? Are you now carrying a weapon? Is this even legal? The answer to all of those questions is “maybe”. There are dozens of variables that come into play when considering your first knife purchase, so I’m here to make that whole world seem a little less daunting by sharing some of my personal experience as well as some widely accepted tips from the world of EDC (everyday carry).  Ultimately, I believe the way to look at a knife is that it’s a tool. One for opening up that new watch box, slicing up an apple at lunchtime, or helping out with some random tasks around the house. Sure, you could use a key to open up a box or your teeth to tear open a package, but it’s important to have the right tool for the job to prevent yourself from breaking an item while using it for something it’s not meant for, or even worse - requiring an embarrassing trip to the dentist.  I don’t mean to frame this as some sort of pro-knife propaganda, since you ultimately can get by without one, but after slipping one into your pocket and seeing just how often it comes in handy, you might be surprised at how useful it is in your day to day life. There’s also the other option - you don’t even have to carry it with you at all. A knife tossed into your junk drawer at home or desk drawer at work will more than likely cover most of your use cases anyway. Let’s break it down a bit ...

A Quick Look at the Depancel x Worn & Wound Allure Valjoux 92 Worn & Wound
May 2, 2024

A Quick Look at the Depancel x Worn & Wound Allure Valjoux 92

Watch collaborations are most successful when the result is greater than the sum of its parts. We’d like to believe The Depancel x Worn & Wound Valjoux 92 is one such example. Borne out of a desire to add a distinctly American flair to a classic chronograph format, the new Allure Valjoux 92 is both aesthetically and mechanically significant. The unique mint green dial conjures classic American automobiles – think Mustangs and Corvettes – and even shares the cars’ metallic paint finish. We’ve also elected to further simplify the dial by removing the running seconds sub-dial, which results in a single-eye chronograph. Speaking of chronographs, the watch’s namesake movement utilizes what is known as an oscillating pinion. To this day, the oscillating pinion remains the most efficient and simple horizontal clutch for engaging the stopwatch function, making the caliber Valjoux 92 a special movement for collectors and chronograph enthusiasts. The Allure is paired with a quality leather strap with matching green stitching, rounding out an attractive and interesting collaboration that would not be possible elsewhere. This Depancel x Worn & Wound special edition is priced at $3,900 and is limited to 20 pieces worldwide. Please reach out to us directly at sales@windupwatchshop.com for inquiries and purchasing details. The watch will also be on display and available at Windup Watch Fair San Francisco from May 3rd to May 5th. For more information on the event, please visi...

Nomadic Introduces the Turas 914 Landfall Worn & Wound
Ming odds against survival May 2, 2024

Nomadic Introduces the Turas 914 Landfall

Belfast’s Nomadic Watch Company was named after the last remaining White Star Line ship in the world, and the nomadic pursuit of new horizons. Their long-term ambition is to eventually make all their watch components in Ireland, except for the Swiss movements that power them. Their first step towards this goal was opening their state-of-the-art watch assembly and testing facility in Belfast in 2023. Until then, their cases and other components are produced by a world-class supplier in Asia, which far exceeds the capabilities of anything available locally. Turas is an Irish Gaeilge (pronounced Gwal-gah) term, which means journey, expedition, or pilgrimage. What a fitting name for a watch line that is all about exploration. New for 2024 is a Numbered Edition of their Turas 914 line in Emerald Green called Landfall. With this watch, Nomadic wanted to pay homage to explorer Ernest Shackleton and his wingman, Tom Crean. Both shining examples of determination and leadership in the face of overwhelming odds against survival. The new Nomadic Turas 914 Landfall measures 39mm in diameter, 11mm thick, 47.5mm from lug-to-lug and has a 20mm strap width. It has a flat sapphire crystal, with anti-reflective coating and is water resistant to a depth of 100m, making this one a great all around go anywhere do anything watch. Beating at the heart of the Landfall is the revered Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, which has a power-reserve of up to 41 hours. The bracelet features screw in li...

Introducing - Bianchet Partners with Maserati MSG Racing & Launches Two Limited Flying Tourbillon Grande Date Monochrome
Bianchet May 2, 2024

Introducing - Bianchet Partners with Maserati MSG Racing & Launches Two Limited Flying Tourbillon Grande Date

In 2021, Bianchet debuted in the watch industry with the Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork, establishing the brand’s design language and paving the way for future releases – like the 2023 Flying Tourbillon Grande Date. In 2023, Maserati returned to the world of open-wheel single-seater motorsport after a hiatus of 65 years. However, instead of the roar […]

Hands On: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary SJX Watches
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon May 2, 2024

Hands On: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary

You can never be too rich or too thin – a quote attributed to Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, but it might as well have come from Piaget, which just debuted the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch in history, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary. Covered in-depth at launch, the AUC Tourbillon is just 2 mm thick, including the case and crystal; that makes the watch thinner than a Swiss five-franc coin. While its record-breaking dimensions are headline-grabbing, it’s the watch’s overall design and ergonomics that make it look and feel almost miraculous on the wrist. The AUC Tourbillon next to the five-franc coin; it’s also slimmer than the two-franc coin, and equivalent to about 20 sheets of A4 printer paper Initial thoughts Record-chasing, whether in terms of thickness, weight, water resistance, or complications, is a common theme in the watch industry, but the results are often gimmicky and impractical. When I heard that Piaget would be introducing the thinnest tourbillon in history, I rolled my eyes. But my perspective changed as soon as I picked up the AUC Tourbillon, a moment that stands out in my memory as a highlight of Watches & Wonders 2024. The watch is thin, of course, but the immediate impression is one of substance; it feels far more substantial than it looks. This is in part due to the M64BC cobalt alloy case, the extreme rigidity of which makes the watch’s 2 mm thinness possible. Furthermore, the ergonomics of the case, which is...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only Watch 2024” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only May 2, 2024

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata “Only Watch 2024”

The surprising, and to some shocking, Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata created for Only Watch 2024 is over the top in both aesthetics and complexity. Based on the brand’s automata wristwatch that’s available either as a Chinese mask or vanitas skull, the Einstein Automata has the air of a mad scientist’s creation. Depressing the pusher at two o’clock starts the automata, which also serve to tell the time with a jumping hours display in Einstein’s forehead and the minutes indicated by the atom symbol pointer at eight o’clock. Made in-house at its Geneva manufacture of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watch illustrates Louis Vuitton’s impressive matchmaking capabilities, while also bringing to mind the extravagant, casual style of its streetwear. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Einstein Automata, I knew I had to see it in person. And in the metal the watch certainly lives up to expectations, it is bizarre, impressive, and wearable, all at the same time. It is bizarre because Einstein is accurately portrayed – the likeness is done well – yet rendered in alien colours of pale blue and silver. It’s impressive because the dial is enamelled and engraved in-house while the movement is exceptionally complex. And it’s wearable despite being a very large watch because the case is in stainless steel, unlike its regular production counterparts that are in gold. Do I like it? I do. But I can imagine a lot of people won’t and I can understand...

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces May 2, 2024

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute”

A tribute to the German city of Dresden, the PanoMaticInverse Limited Edition depicts the city where the predecessor of Glashütte Original was founded in 1845. It retains the inverted movement construction that characterises the model, displaying the escapement on the dial, but here the three-quarter plate on the front sports a hand-engraved rendering of Dresden landmarks, the Frauenkirche and Academy of Fine Arts, while the bridges on the reverse are engraved with the Elbe promenade. Initial thoughts Although the brand itself was founded after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Glashütte Original (GO) has its roots in the very beginning of watchmaking in the Glashütte area. Because the brand was formed from the East German state-owned watchmaking enterprise, it was vertically integrated from the beginning, making it a true manufacture. It is somewhat under-appreciated compared to its neighbour, A. Lange & Söhne, although the two brands focus on different segments of the market, with Glashütte Original offering more affordable timepieces. The brand’s steel watches, for example, usually retail for under US$15,000. However, GO is capable of German haute horologerie, as demonstrated by its top-of-the-line timepieces like the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. The PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” is one of the brand’s high-end offerings, with a retail price of US$47,400. Even though that’s a big number, the watch delivers substantial tangible quality. In addition to th...

San Francisco Here We Come! The Windup 2024 SF Activities Roundup Worn & Wound
Ming May 1, 2024

San Francisco Here We Come! The Windup 2024 SF Activities Roundup

If you’re reading this article, there’s a good chance you’ve been to one of our Windup Watch Fairs in San Francisco, Chicago, or New York City. In the nine years we’ve brought together enthusiasts and brands across the country, it’s been incredible to hear the different stories of how people have come to Worn & Wound and all the reasons they’ve stayed. If you’re a long-time-reader-none-time-attendee lamenting, “I’ve never been to a fair like this before…” – trust us, neither have we. 2024 is going to be a brand new year for the Windup Watch Fair. With over 30 first-time watch and EDC brands as well as many familiar favorites, everyone is in for a treat as we descend on the Fort Mason Gateway Pavilion later this week for the Windup Watch Fair. Maybe it’s our refreshed mission for the year, to include even more enthusiasts under the Worn & Wound umbrella, catalyzing the new EDC Expo with Carryology. Maybe it’s the new venue, the historic (literally) building in the arts and cultural hub along the San Francisco Bay. Maybe it’s the over 90 watches and gear brands coming this year. Ok, a big part of it is the brands. All of these different pieces make this year an all-together new Windup for everyone. If you’re in the Bay Area this weekend, we have two words for you: get here! Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco, CA 94123 Friday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 4: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 5: 12PM – 5PM Free and open ...

Introducing the Baily, Farer’s New Moonphase with a Natural Aventurine Dial Worn & Wound
Farer s New Moonphase May 1, 2024

Introducing the Baily, Farer’s New Moonphase with a Natural Aventurine Dial

U.K. based Farer is a brand that marches to the beat of their own drum, or perhaps in horological terms, the beat of their own movements. From their case shapes, use of color, bronze crowns, and their wonderful lume applications, being different is at the heart of their charm. So why would their take on an aventurine dial be like all the others? This new special edition of their Moonphase collection is called the Baily and it is made from natural aventurine. While most aventurine dials are simply glass flecked with copper filings, these are natural semi-precious gemstones that have been painstakingly cut and polished into a dial that is just 1mm thick. The finished product has a distinctive speckle-patterned look and a smooth glossy surface unique to each watch. Further enhancing the Baily line, the moonphase discs are carefully hand painted in Switzerland and finished with yellow moons made from hand applied, textured Super-LumiNova, which mimics the lunar surface. No Farer would be complete without their signature touch of lume. Each Baily features applied Lumicast markers made from a blend of ceramic and Grade OL X1 Super-LumiNova. These are paired with polished lance style hands and a second hand with a white Farer “A” at its tip. Powering this piece is the hand-wound Sellita SW288-1 in Elaboré grade, which can be seen through the display caseback. It even has a date wheel that is color matched to the larger moonphase wheel, which is a slightly darker shade of gre...

TAG Heuer Evokes 1980s Nostalgia with the Formula 1 Kith SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Evokes 1980s Nostalgia May 1, 2024

TAG Heuer Evokes 1980s Nostalgia with the Formula 1 Kith

Originally introduced in 1986, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 was an affordable and cheerful sports watch recognisable to anyone who grew up in the 1980s and 1990s. Now TAG Heuer has just unveiled the Formula 1 Kith Limited Edition, a faithful remake of the original Series 1 model, created in tandem with streetwear label Kith. Offered in ten colourful variants, the new Formula 1 is branded “Kith Heuer” in a nod to the collaboration, with the fashion label’s emblem replacing the customary “TAG” in the watchmaker’s shield logo. Initial thoughts Historically a brand that was an entry point into luxury sports watches, TAG Heuer has now gone a bit more upmarket. Its re-issues of vintage Heuer chronographs, for instance, are located in a pricier segment. Buyers looking for something more affordable have the Aquaracer or modern-day Formula 1. Now they have another option: the original Formula 1 built to current levels of quality. Kith’s motto, “Just Us,” sits just above six The modern-day Formula 1 has evolved enough it no longer resembles the original, so the Formula 1 Kith will be appealing to someone who wants to indulge in some nostalgia. The remake is virtually identical to the 1980s Series 1 model – even the plastic for the case and bezel are made by the same supplier – but with updated specs for additional robustness. At CHF1,500, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith is a good value proposition and in keeping with the accessible spirit of the original. The first TAG...

Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only May 1, 2024

Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024”

Possibly the successor to the Chronomètre Bleu, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is a unique creation made for Only Watch 2024 taking place on May 10, but also the template for a next generation of lineSport watches. The Furtif Bleu retains the familiar silhouette of the lineSport, but is executed entirely in tantalum – notably the bracelet is tantalum – with a fired enamel dial. Additionally, it is equipped with a new calibre that displays the power reserve and moon phase on the back. Initial thoughts Despite its name and low-key colours, the Furtif Bleu is a very striking watch, largely because of the contrast between the dark grey tantalum and the blue dial with an orange seconds hand. In the hand, it is heavy, as expected for the metal, and also silky in feel due to the finely blasted surfaces of the case and bracelet. Close your eyes and it feels like the current lineSport in platinum, though the blasted finish is finer than that on the existing gold and platinum models. And on the wrist, it is unexpectedly elegant for a sports watch because of its height, which is just 9.5 mm. That’s slightly thicker than the Chronomètre Bleu and noticeably thinner than the lineSport Automatique Reserve. One of the most notable aspects of the watch is the bracelet, which is entirely tantalum. The nature of the alloy makes it particularly difficult to work, explaining the cost and rarity of tantalum watch cases. Tantalum bracelets are even less common. The only other brand I can t...

Credor Celebrates their 50th Anniversary with a New Limited Edition Eichi II in Yellow Gold Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko as Apr 30, 2024

Credor Celebrates their 50th Anniversary with a New Limited Edition Eichi II in Yellow Gold

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, the Japanese brand that is the highest end arm of the Seiko family. In recent years, Credor has taken something of a backseat to Grand Seiko, as the latter brand has grown in stature, with rising price points as well as the introduction of an honest to goodness Super Watch in the form of the Kodo. But a new release from Credor to celebrate their big anniversary serves as a reminder of why the brand is unique and important within the larger world of Seiko, and Japanese watchmaking in general. The Eichi II is Credor’s signature watch, highlighting everything the brand is most adept at. It features a porcelain dial made by a single artisan, and the complexity of its manufacture and strict tolerances for quality accepted by Credor apparently result in an exceptionally high failure rate. The result, however, is an uncommonly beautiful canvas for the hand painted markers that are this watch’s calling card. For this anniversary edition of the Eichi II, Credor has crafted a dial in dark blue, and the markers have been hand painted in gold. Upping the ante somewhat for this release, the Credor logo at 12:00 has also been hand painted, a first for an Eichi II. This is also the first time a yellow gold case has been made for an Eichi II.  Of course, another major draw of the highest end Credors is the immaculately finished movements made in the famed Micro Artist Studio. The Eichi II runs on the 7R14, a Spring Drive movement with a...

Hands-on - The Perpetual Motions of the Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Orbis Apr 30, 2024

Hands-on - The Perpetual Motions of the Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon

Modern watches made by Roger Dubuis are the antithesis of understatement and always manage to deliver a compelling mix of traditional horological content with a dash of extravagant, expressive design. This year’s releases focused on the flying tourbillon, culminating in the Orbis in Machina model with its rare, centrally mounted regulator (only a few can […]