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Annual Calendar

Patek's 1996 invention; handles 30- and 31-day months but needs one manual correction per year.
Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Snake” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Aug 30, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Snake”

Having released Chinese Zodiac editions annually for the past 12 years, Vacheron Constantin presents the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Snake”. The serpent is the sixth Chinese zodiac sign for the upcoming year that begins with the Chinese New Year on January 29, 2025. Available in pink gold or platinum, the new zodiac edition illustrates the brand’s metiers d’art expertise with hand-engraving and enamelling on a dial that depicts a cobra. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin has developed a niche with its Métiers d’Art offerings, some of which, like the Wind God and Thunder God pair of repeaters, are exceptional. The Zodiac series is more accessible than the repeaters, but still relies on Vacheron Constantin’s in-house calibre with a unique display that indicates the time and calendar in windows, leaving the dial free for artisanal decoration. The quality of work on the dial is high, although the snake is not a universally loved creature, unlike say the dragon, which will limit the appeal of this particular edition. The king of snakes The snake edition employs the same case as last zodiac models, which measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.72 mm in thickness. The movement also remains the same cal. 2460 G4 with a window-based display. Instead of traditional hands, the watch displays the time, date, and day of the week through four windows on the dial. The apertures at 11 and one o’clock indicate the hours and minutes, whereas tho...

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A Close Look At Krayon And Its Sunrise And Sunset Complications Fratello
Krayon Jul 24, 2024

A Close Look At Krayon And Its Sunrise And Sunset Complications

Krayon is a watch brand that has been around for less than a decade. I say “brand,” but I should probably say “independent watchmaker” instead. Krayon founder and owner Rémi Maillat debuted with his Everywhere watch in 2017. Today, he produces around 40 watches annually with 12 collaborators in their Neuchâtel atelier. Maillat’s signature is […] Visit A Close Look At Krayon And Its Sunrise And Sunset Complications to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The Chunky But Funky Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph Fratello
Jul 20, 2024

Hands-On With The Chunky But Funky Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph

You may have never heard of Cimier, but in the early 1970s, the brand produced over 1.5 million watches annually. Unfortunately, despite developing a quartz movement, Cimier struggled during the Quartz Crisis. Eventually, the company reopened its doors in 2003 after mechanical watches had become “cool” (again), opened the Watch Academy in 2010, and started […] Visit Hands-On With The Chunky But Funky Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph to read the full article.

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Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber Worn & Wound
Yema Jun 24, 2024

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber

French watchmaker Henry-Louis Belmont established Yema in 1948 and quickly became known for manufacturing ultra-capable tool watches. By 1954 their production reached 130,000 watches and by the mid 1960s they were selling over 400,000 watches annually in 55 countries. Their motto “Time of Heroes” became their official slogan, and their watches were particularly suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Today, Yema is experiencing a resurgence and is introducing a new modern interpretation of their iconic Skin Diver. The Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is not just another pretty face. Beneath the beautiful dark grey dial beats their in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 movement (CMM.20). It is rated for accuracy at -3/+7 seconds a day, has a power reserve of 70 hours, and is extra slim due to its micro-rotor. The watch measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm from lug-to-lug, and only 10mm tall to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal. Despite being relatively thin, it is water-resistant to an impressive depth of 300 meters. Adding to its vintage styling is a dark grey, faded bezel insert covered by sapphire glass. Its lume pip, along with all the lume on the dial and markers, has that aged radium look, which complements the design very well. The watch comes mounted on a new slimmer Yema Scales bracelet, which integrates better with the Skin Diver’s slimmer profile. The screw-down case back offers a transparent view of the movement, featuring a black ALD (ato...

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AGREE OR DISAGREE: Rolex prices will one day be at or under retail – these were your responses… Time+Tide
Rolex prices will one day Aug 25, 2023

AGREE OR DISAGREE: Rolex prices will one day be at or under retail – these were your responses…

At the top of the list of brands associated with the unobtanium phenomenon is Rolex. Yes, other brands have this shared insufferable quality of low access to watches at retail, but, these other brands are independents with much smaller production runs. Rolex makes approximately 800,000 to a million watches annually, yet many consumers leave boutiques … ContinuedThe post AGREE OR DISAGREE: Rolex prices will one day be at or under retail – these were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Graf von Faber-Castell Pen of the Year 2022 . . . Plus Five More from Previous Years – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 25, 2023

Graf von Faber-Castell Pen of the Year 2022 . . . Plus Five More from Previous Years – Reprise

Faber-Castell introduced its first Pen of the Year in 2003 and has annually introduced a limited edition pen with a very specific theme ever since. Each tells the tale of a person, a place, or an era that helped “shape the development of humanity,” according to the company. The Pen of the Year 2022 is inspired by the influential Aztec civilization.

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AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?! Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Universelle boasts 40 functions Feb 3, 2023

AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?!

New RD#4: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle boasts 40 functions and 23 complications in one watch. Royal Oak Concept debuts in 43mm size with split-seconds chronograph GMT. New Royal Oak Perpetual Colander Ultra-Thin has a smoky-blue dial exclusive to the model As if yesterday’s announcements had not already satiated our appetite for new Audemars Piguet pieces, … ContinuedThe post AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Primer On Gemstones And Their Appreciation: An Introduction To The Finer Things – Reprise Quill & Pad
Sep 24, 2022

Primer On Gemstones And Their Appreciation: An Introduction To The Finer Things – Reprise

Joshua Munchow became somewhat informed about gemstones and related techniques in studying for the jewelry-heavy Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève categories we discuss annually. This new information has sparked a significant amount of passion for the topic, leaving him wanting to share some of what he’s learned about one of the most beautiful sides of haute horology: gems and their settings.

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Mario Scarpatetti Wins the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition 2021 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition 2021 Jun 1, 2021

Mario Scarpatetti Wins the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition 2021

Held annually since 2015, the Young Talent Competition (YTC) was established by F.P. Journe to identify and reward promising young watch- and clockmakers. Open to candidates between 18 and 30 years old from anywhere in the world, the competition is overseen by a jury made up of industry figures – including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe himself – with the winner receiving a certificate as well as a CHF20,000 grant to buy watchmaking tools. This year’s winner was Mario Scarpatetti, a 29-year old clockmaker from the town of Parsonz in the east of Switzerland. Mr Scarpatetti’s winning submission was the Kalendar Perpeten, a long-case pendulum clock wound by a block of marble from Mr Scarpatetti’s region. It’s equipped with a moon phase, running equation of time, and most importantly – a patented, secular perpetual calendar. Francois-Paul Journe (left) with Mario Scarpatetti The Kalendar Perpeten Mario envisioned a new type of perpetual calendar clock in 2016, as an extension of a concept he had realised in 2013 as a conventional perpetual calendar clock. A conventional perpetual calendar keeps track of the date, accounting 30- and 31-day months as well as leap years. However, such calendars still require adjustment every 100 years, as years that are divisible by 100 but not by 400 are not leap years, one of the quirks of the Gregorian calendar that is the norm today. As such, a conventional perpetual calendar will interpret the years 2...

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Up Close: The Citizen Calibre 0200 SJX Watches
Citizen Calibre 0200 Citizen Mar 21, 2021

Up Close: The Citizen Calibre 0200

Citizen is one of the world’s biggest watchmakers, with its timepiece division generating about US$1 billion in sales each year – an output of several hundred million watches and movements annually. That vast manufacturing expertise means Citizen knows how to produce a fine mechanical movement. Now Citizen has finally accomplished it, and installed the movement inside a brilliant new watch. Launched earlier this month, The Citizen Caliber 0200 is equipped with the brand’s first mechanical movement developed from scratch as a high-end calibre (“The Citizen” is the name of the collection, while Caliber 0200 refers to movement as well as this specific model). Although the brand did launch a version of The Citizen with an automatic movement in 2010, the new Caliber 0200 is radically different, and tremendously superior. While the highlight is the new Caliber 0200, the entire watch is executed extremely well. The case and bracelet are outstanding, fabricated and finished so well there is nothing else that comes close in the same price segment. The quality of the watch was apparent in the press photos, which made me want to see it in the metal. I got my hands on a prototype for a couple of days earlier this month, an experience that left me substantially impressed. [Editor’s note: The watch pictured is a prototype, so it does contain a handful of hard-to-spot imperfections.] Initial thoughts On paper, the Caliber 0200 might seem uninteresting, being yet another sp...

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Detailed Primer On Gemstones And Their Appreciation: An Introduction To The Finer Things Quill & Pad
Sep 22, 2019

Detailed Primer On Gemstones And Their Appreciation: An Introduction To The Finer Things

Recently Joshua Muchow has become somewhat informed about gemstones and related techniques in studying for the jewelry-heavy Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève categories we discuss annually. This new information has sparked a significant amount of passion for the topic, leaving him wanting to share some of what he's learned about one of the most beautiful sides of haute horology: gems and their settings.

Read article