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Results for Dauphine Hands

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Dauphine Hands

Tapered triangular faceted hour and minute hands; the mid-century European dress-watch standard, used today by Patek, Vacheron, JLC.
Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Ref. 5236P-011 “Gradient Silver” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Ref 5236P-011 6 days ago

Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Ref. 5236P-011 “Gradient Silver”

Patek Philippe’s latest take on its flagship perpetual calendar is the In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P-011 with a “gradient silver” dial. Though a cosmetic update to a model that’s only been in production since 2021, the new dial is unexpectedly appealing, giving the watch a striking different feel from its predecessors. Patek Philippe’s most advanced calendar movement, the cal. 31-260 PS QL inside the ref. 5236P is a latest-generation base movement matched with a newly-developed perpetual calendar module. The movement is now in the third generation of the reference; the ref. 5236P-011 replaces the ref. 5236P-010 with a “rose gilt” dial that was only in the catalogue for two years. Initial thoughts The ref. 5236P-011 is a new face for an existing model. Though the design remains unchanged, the dial finish that darkens towards the edges gives it a more modern feel. The composite strap adds to the modern feel, though the strap might be a bit too sporty for the watch. Paradoxically, the smoked dial finish also brings to mind aged or “tropical” dials on vintage watches. The rest of the watch stays the same, but it’s a good one. The ref. 5236P is an impressive watch in both technical and physical terms – it’s the brand’s most advanced perpetual calendar and also its largest. The size and weight are reassuring, and actually bring to mind complicated models from a rival brand from Germany. But the case is made up of lots of flat surfaces and entir...

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Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Cardinal Points 6 days ago

Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller

There were three watches I was disappointed to have missed at Watches & Wonders. To be fair, I missed all the releases at Watches & Wonders this year, but in my mind, the three most interesting watches from the show were the Vacheron Constantin Overseas "Cardinal Points," the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux, and this watch from Laurent Ferrier: the Sport Traveller. I like the Laurent Ferrier brand a lot. But I've been wondering whether, in hindsight, I was a bit harsh on their entry-level Sport Auto when it was released in 2023. I liked the watch in theory, but in practice I had a few minor issues with the bracelet fit and tolerance, the thickness, and the price. I know a few people who own the watch, and my feelings have softened over time. But reading that old review, I wonder if I was right or just picking nits. This year's release of the Sport Traveller combined one of my two favorite complications—travel time/GMT—with lightweight titanium, which seems to be le matériel du jour.  It also gave me a chance to reevaluate my take on the watch, especially in a market that's become even more crowded and an audience that's more price-sensitive. Let's tackle the specs first and then move on to the feelings. Measuring 42mm by 13.3mm thick in grade 5 titanium, with 100m of water resistance, the watch is only 0.5mm wider and 0.6mm thicker than the original Sport Auto, which shows the strength of the movement design in being able to pack an extra complic...

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Hands-On: The Longines Master Collection Launches A New Monopusher Chronograph Alongside A Refresh Of The Triple Calendar Chrono Hodinkee
Longines Master Collection Launches Aug 25, 2026

Hands-On: The Longines Master Collection Launches A New Monopusher Chronograph Alongside A Refresh Of The Triple Calendar Chrono

Earlier this year, Longines started rolling out a refresh of its dressy, polished Master Collection. But while that update was relegated to a large array of time-and-date models, I think today's new product launch brings something much more noteworthy to the table. There are two main additions: one by way of an update to a classic Longines chronograph, and the other, the first monopusher chronograph designed for the Longines Master Collection. The Updated Master Collection Chrono Moonphase The first is a refresh of the Master Collection Chrono Moonphase, ref. L2.962.4.73.2, largely an aesthetic refinement over the outgoing model. First is the consolidation of two case options, 40mm and 42mm, meeting in the middle at a 41mm diameter for the new generation. The thickness of the stainless steel case measures 13.8 mm (down from 14.2mm), and the lug-to-lug comes in at a large but not oversized 48.6mm. The case silhouette remains largely untouched here, reflecting the soft, fully polished case design with little in the way of contrasting lines or faceting on the exterior, which is exaggerated by the polished concave bezel. Most of the changes come by way of the dial, which combines a whole slew of small design changes for what is, in my opinion, a significantly improved design. Iterating on the brand's familiar barleycorn-textured dial, Longines cleans up a lot of the typography for a much more balanced look overall.  It's essential for what is quite a busy dial, needing to cra...

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Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Aug 24, 2026

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

The Roger Dubuis (RD) Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is something of a bridge across eras for RD, combining the brand’s seminal biretrograde calendar format with the 2000s-era Excalibur case, executed in RD’s current lavishly layered house style. The revised perpetual calendar module brings plenty of haute horlogerie finishing to the dial side, and should prove more reliable than past iterations as well. Initial thoughts The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual is a new model, but it feels like a watch that has always been around, combining several familiar Roger Dubuis elements. Chief among them is the biretrograde format, which has been a staple of the brand since its founding era. When the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar debuted last year, we speculated that a perpetual version was likely in the pipeline, and we didn’t have to wait long to find out. In terms of design, it’s pure RD through and through. The brand has offered glimpses of a return to its roots — the Hommage La Placide was well-received by neo-vintage enthusiasts — but it’s clear the brand remains committed to this bolder, more flamboyant vision of haute horlogerie that it has been championing since the launch of the Excalibur in 2005, albeit at a smaller size. Of course, the design won’t appeal to everyone, but that might be a good thing. Taste convergence favours the classics, but the polarising Excalibur aesthetic will appeal to those who appreciate traditional watchmaking but are ...

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Hands-On: The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon Hodinkee
Aug 21, 2026

Hands-On: The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon

Earlier in April, right before the kickoff of Watches and Wonders, Swiss independent Sylvain Pinaud announced his third major creation since the founding of his workshop in 2018. First came his Monopoussoir Chronograph, then arguably the more recognizable time-only Origine series. This third entry in the collection is the pragmatically named Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon—any guesses what complication this watch holds?  I kid, but the new watches are an absolute treat to see and handle in person. Even though the intense wave of new releases from dozens of brands in Geneva may have quickly steered the online conversation away from these new watches toward Jubilee dials and Nautilus desk clocks, these watches did not go unnoticed by collectors. Thirty of them, to be precise. The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon was announced in three limited editions of ten pieces each, priced at CHF 180,000, and all three variants sold out within days. But before we get to the new watches, you might be asking what the situation is with the watchmaker these days, given that every decently well-known high-end independent watchmaker seems never to struggle with demand. That's pretty much the case here, too. Long story short, Pinaud and his team of 8 produce around 25 watches per year, and the Origine series has been fully allocated through its planned run through 2027. Given the sell-out of the Tourbillon and the sunsetting of the Origine, it kind of sounds like there isn't much to offer a prospective ...

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Hands-On with the Studio Underd0g 02SERIES (Gen2): A Refreshing New Take on the Famous Dirty Dozen Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g 02SERIES Gen2 Aug 20, 2026

Hands-On with the Studio Underd0g 02SERIES (Gen2): A Refreshing New Take on the Famous Dirty Dozen

In the span of six short years, independent brand Studio Underd0g has positioned itself as a leader in the contemporary British watchmaking wave. Founded by designer Richard Benc in 2020, the brand quickly made a name for itself in the industry with an irreverent and cheeky style that adds a refreshing spin to the sometimes stodgy business of watch design. Studio Underd0g pairs unique colors with quality finishing while “reject[ing] all that needs to go, like stuffiness, pomposity, and the reluctance to try anything new.” The 02SERIES brings together that fun-loving spirit and the brand’s commitment to boundary-pushing innovation. This summer’s release of Gen2 – the second iteration of the field watch collection – makes meaningful improvements to a fan-favorite. Studio Underd0g’s 02SERIES offers a modern take on the famous Dirty Dozen – a group of twelve watch brands tasked by the British Ministry of Defence to create a field watch for military-issue during the last half of World War II. Chief among a long list of specifications the brands had to meet, the watches were to be tough, reliable, and highly legible. Nearly all field watches today pull their aesthetic from the form-factor popularized by the Dirty Dozen, and I was curious to find out what Studio Underd0g could offer apart from the typical iterations so often seen in this space. After a week on the wrist, I can say that the 02SERIES (Gen2) is unlike any field watch I’ve encountered before and is ...

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Hands On: Credor Locomotive “Dawn Blue” GCCR995 SJX Watches
Credor Aug 20, 2026

Hands On: Credor Locomotive “Dawn Blue” GCCR995

A new day is dawning for Credor, which made its Watches & Wonders debut with the Locomotive “Dawn Blue” ref. GCCR995. Designed by Gerald Genta, the Locomotive was once the brand’s flagship sports model in the same vein as its more famous Swiss siblings, but with a quirky integrated-unintegrated bracelet. The obvious quality of the titanium case and bracelet make up for a weak spec sheet, but leave room for the Locomotive to grow alongside the newly international Credor marque. Initial thoughts The Locomotive is a great example of a watch that is more than the sum of its parts. In fact, it’s (almost) inexplicably nice for a watch with such a strange design, a mundane movement, and a micro-adjust-less pin-and-collar bracelet. While it’s cliché to say a watch looks better in person than photographs — and underestimates what a good photographer can do — I would say the Locomotive feels much better in person, like a watch of its price point should. The defining update for this edition of the Locomotive is its embossed dial, which features a repeating hexagon motif. The grooves that fill each cell are oriented at different angles, giving the dial a shimmering personality that changes with shifting light. At some angles, the dial is a uniform blue, while other angles produce an almost chequerboard-like effect. This backdrop is coated with layers of clear lacquer, enabling the Credor wordmark and (superfluous) “Automatic” text to float neatly above the three-d...

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Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30 Monochrome
Minerva Aug 19, 2026

Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30

Minerva‘s Unveiled Chronograph series is an exercise in turning conventional watchmaking inside out. Instead of hiding the movement under the dial, which would require taking the watch off the wrist to admire its calibre through the display caseback, the manufacture reverses its architecture, making the chronograph mechanism and its distinctive hand-finished components the main attraction […]

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Hands On: Richard Mille RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Le Locle formerly known Aug 19, 2026

Hands On: Richard Mille RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago

Launched just a few weeks ago, the RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago is modelled on the Colnago C68, the same road bike used by Tadej Pogacar, the current Tour de France champion who has long worn a Richard Mille while racing. Though new, the RM 64-01 is still quintessential Richard Mille in form, substance, and price. The watch is large, lightweight, and exceptionally, satisfyingly ergonomic. As is tradition, the RM64-01 movement is the work of Audemars Piguet Le Locle, formerly known as Renaud Papi. The case material is made by longtime partner NTPT, a Swiss carbon composites specialist. And in the great tradition of Richard Mille, the RM 64-01 is very expensive. Tadej Pogacar with the RM 64-01. Image – Richard Mille Initial thoughts The RM 64-01 is the typical large format tonneau-shaped case shared with most current Richard Mille models. At about 43 mm wide, almost 50 mm long, and over 14 mm tall, the case is big, but sits perfectly on the wrist thanks to its curvature and lightness. And while thick, integrated rubber straps normally detract from wearability, the strap adds to the ergonomics of the RM 64-01. The watch is almost entirely in bright white, with accents of bright blue and rose gold — it makes a statement, even from a distance, as most Richard Mille watches do. But zoom in past the over-the-top aesthetics and the movement reveals fine detailing. The blue and white bridges are all titanium, but painted by hand to mimic the Colnago C68 bike frame. The tradition...

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Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Les Opus Aug 18, 2026

Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus

The many shapes of Cartier were on full display at Cartier during Watches & Wonders, where the brand released the Privé Les Opus, a trio of platinum models with burgundy accents to mark the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Privé collection. The Crash Squelette is the only all-new model — with a new open-worked calibre — and the only limited edition. The Tank Normale and Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir tread little new ground, but the platinum-and-burgundy livery is easy to like, and manages to be both distinctive and discreet. Initial thoughts Cartier occupies an enviable position in the luxury watch landscape, being the only brand among the top 10 luxury watchmakers (by revenue) with a sizable jewellery business. Perhaps for this reason, it’s also the only brand to achieve this level of success primarily on the basis of design, rather than technical innovation or haute horlogerie complications. The Opus trio proves why. Cartier earned its reputation as the “watchmaker of shapes” over more than a century, and today enjoys a rich back catalogue of designs. The three models chosen to represent the 10th anniversary of the brand’s high-end Privé line — the Tank Normale, the Crash, and the Tortue Monopoussoir — are among the fan favourites. The Tank Normale — especially on this bracelet — is one of my favourite Cartier models, offering a truly vintage look with modern build quality. Reflecting Cartier’s growth as an industrial watchmaker, each watch...

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Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Rebuilds Aug 17, 2026

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up

I've always had a certain fascination with world timers—for one, it's a practical complication, but mostly because I love watching brands solve the problem of presenting a lot of information—text, numbers, data—and condensing it into a dial that actually works. When it works, it really works. So when I heard Frederique Constant was updating their Classic Worldtimer at Watches and Wonders this year, I was intrigued. The broader market is fascinated with world timers too. If the upper end is any indicator that world timers are trending, look at what the ref. 2523 "South America Map" Patek sold for a few months ago. Couple that with brands exploring different ways into the complication—our own Ben Clymer spent time in Geneva last fall and came back with lavish praise for a world timer from Andersen Genève, calling it the favorite thing he saw on the entire trip. But the big hiccup for me with world timers has always been simple: they're often quite expensive. World time, generally, was historically reserved for a brand's most exclusive references, in precious metals, running mid-five-figure to low-six-figure—only in recent years have brands like Nomos, Omega, Breitling, and IWC started offering steel versions, which dragged the entry point down to the mid-four-figure range. Frederique Constant has been chipping away at that problem for well over a decade now, and with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture release at Watches and Wonders this year, I think they've crack...

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Hands-on - The Summer Vibes Of The Nomos Club Campus Full Rose and All Olive Monochrome
Nomos Club Campus Full Rose Aug 17, 2026

Hands-on - The Summer Vibes Of The Nomos Club Campus Full Rose and All Olive

Do you know many brands that embrace colour as confidently as Nomos Glashütte? Watchmakers often introduce brightly coloured dials as limited seasonal releases, yet Nomos has made them part of its identity, particularly within the Club Campus collection. We have seen everything from Future Orange and Absolute Grey to Starlight and Night Sky, Nonstop Red […]

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Is The Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly What The Brand Needed? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly Aug 14, 2026

Is The Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly What The Brand Needed? (Hands-On)

Piaget’s released a new iteration of their Polo Signature Date, but does it truly embody the brand’s modern creative vision? Let’s find out! What We Love: Shapely, wearable case More distinct dial & identity The rubber strap – still comfortable! What We Don’t: Crown feels slightly small Dead zone when changing times Is it finally recognisable? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For as much as I love watches for their design, technology, or daring in either field, recognition must be recognised as one of the most important elements of a watch brand’s arsenal. When a watch brand goes ‘mainstream’ within the enthusiast community, it brings with it a significant amount of power within the watch world. But it’s usually easier said than done; scant few brands have managed to capture the attention of both hardcore enthusiasts and luxury lovers at the same time. Piaget is a brand that has perennially clung to the fringes of that audience. In the past, they hadn’t been able to tap into the enthusiast crowd with the same level of magnitude as some of their peers in Richemont. While one can easily point the finger towards characteristics like ultra-luxury and exclusivity, it hasn’t stopped other brands of a similar calibre from breaking through. So if not that, then what? Perhaps it’s due to a lack of distinctive visual identity, which in recent years has begun to change. While fans of the ...

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Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV SJX Watches
Voutilainen demonstrate demand Aug 14, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

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Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 As Aug 13, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357

As it undergoes a late-in-life rejuvenation, Breguet has been steadily updating models long in its catalogue, including its range of tourbillon watches. The Classique Tourbillon 7357 is the long overdue evolution of the 3350/3357 that was introduced way back in 1989. Upgraded inside and out, the 7357 is the new entry-level offering amongst Breguet’s tourbillon watches, but it is now more obviously haute horlogerie with a new look and a new(ish) movement. The details and finishing of the 7357 illustrate Breguet’s manufacturing quality, despite being based on a model from three decades ago. The 7357 is available in Breguet gold or platinum (pictured here) Initial thoughts The 7357 is essentially the 3357, upgraded in every respect. Even though the watch pictured is a prototype, and not perfectly clean, the improvements in finishing, materials, and construction are obvious. Compared to the competition, the 3357 was arguably out of date even 20 years ago; in contrast, the 7357 is competitive. The decoration has jumped several steps upwards, which is most visible on the front with a refined tourbillon bridge. While the movement architecture is based on the Lemania cal. 387 of the 3350/3357, it now boasts a longer power reserve and non-magnetic hairspring amongst other upgrades. Like many of the other facelifted Breguet models, the 7357 adopts a new look but one that’s still recognisably Breguet – a gentle diversification away from the established Breguet wristwatch styl...

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Hands-On: the Bernhardt Captain Worn & Wound
Aug 12, 2026

Hands-On: the Bernhardt Captain

Bernhardt’s Captain collection is a new range of dress watches that I think loosely falls in the Calatrave-esque trend that has been emerging, most notably through a variety of Japanese indies and micros, over the last few years. As interest in chunky divers and sports watches appears to wane a bit, enthusiasts are (finally) willing to look at watches in other genres, and brands are delivering with a variety of takes on the dress watch format.  This is a fundamentally good thing for the community, but it’s not easy to make a dress watch. It is, conversely, very easy to attempt to make a dress watch and actually make a regular old daily driver, the type of watch that most people who had any desire to wear any watch at all would have owned in the middle part of the 20th century.    $749 Hands-On: the Bernhardt Captain Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9039 Dial Silver Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap leather Water Resistance 50 Dimensions 38 x 45mm Thickness 9.55mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty yes Price $749 A dress watch, to me, is a very specific thing. If it’s mechanical, it’s manually wound. It’s more likely to not have a seconds hand, and indices and other markings should be minimal. It obviously should be quite thin and relatively small in size, and if I were really being a snob about it, I’d insist it should be in a precious metal, but I’m not a snob and that’s ridiculous. It does speak, though, to the idea that when you use the word “d...

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Hands On: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium Aug 12, 2026

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium

The Greubel Forsey (GF) Balancier 3 topped our summer watch wish list thanks to its uncompromising craftsmanship and ergonomic form factor. Though not an altogether new watch — the model debuted in 2023 — the “baby blue” edition updates the formula with a dimpled finish on the prominent Y-shaped bridge that spans the dial. Initial thoughts Greubel Forsey is one of the few artisanal independent brands that has managed to create a distinctive and compelling sports watch. While the style of the Balancier 3 might be an acquired taste for some — especially those who prefer more of a dial — the quality of make is obvious and the finishing is almost clinical in its perfection. This helps justify the steep cost of entry, even for an ‘entry level’ model like the Balancier 3. The Convexe line grew significantly during former CEO Antonio Calce’s tenure, from late 2020 to early 2024, as the brand prepared to scale. Fortunately, the brand pulled the plug on its growth plan and has subsequently reverted to a more balanced line-up, no pun intended. Beyond the blue colour, the primary element that distinguishes this edition is the dimpled finish of the titanium bridge that supports the hand stack. More than just a finish applied for its own sake, the matte treatment helps break up the monotony of mirror-polished elements on the “dial” and provides enhanced contrast with its own mirror-polished bevels. To achieve this look on titanium, the GF developed a new technique...

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Hands-On: The Watch Ho & Co. x Selten Yum Cha Edition Hodinkee
Aug 11, 2026

Hands-On: The Watch Ho & Co. x Selten Yum Cha Edition

Today marks the third collaboration between Watch Ho & Co. and Hong Kong-based microbrand Selten. I don't believe we've covered any of Selten's past watches, but last October the brand appeared on my radar after I spent a good bit of time at their booth looking at their watches during theWindUp Watch Fair New York. It's also when I met Jackie Ho, the founder of the Hong Kong watch-enthusiast-and-collector community Watch Ho & Co. Before today, there were two Watch Ho & Co. collaborations with Selten, the Jui and Jui Bauhinia, both under $1,300 and centered around a distinctive "Mountain" pattern CNC-machined onto mother-of-pearl dials. The Bauhinia edition expanded on the design of the first by offering two iridescent dial options, in either pink or purple, and I'm willing to bet that if you float around watch communities on Instagram, you've definitely seen at least a few wrist shots from collectors online. I have a few friends with these watches, and they look really fantastic in person. To celebrate the third anniversary of the enthusiast group, Jackie Ho takes the third collaboration, named Yum Cha (the Cantonese word for dim sum), in a completely different creative direction. On paper, this new watch goes much more upscale with handcrafted decoration instead of CNC machining to achieve a hand-engraved motif on the dial, with grand feu enameling on top. But while the previous editions attribute the dial motif to ancient Chinese armor, the inspiration for the Yum Cha ed...

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Hands On: Grand Seiko “Hisen” SBGZ011 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Hisen” SBGZ011 Grand Seiko’s Aug 11, 2026

Hands On: Grand Seiko “Hisen” SBGZ011

Grand Seiko’s excellent dive watches may have stolen the show Watches & Wonders, but the waterfall-inspired Masterpiece Collection “Hisen” SBGZ011 proves the brand hasn’t let its next-generation Spring Drive rollout outshine its fine watchmaking project — the Micro Artist Studio. While best known for the Credor Eichi II, and some of the finest chiming wristwatches yet made, the Micro Artist Studio’s work for Grand Seiko is perhaps even better, and though its resplendent movements can be found in more subtle watches, the “Hisen” is just as decadently decorated outside as it is within. Initial thoughts Last year, Grand Seiko kicked off a streak of hits, launching the compact and precise Spring Drive SLGB003, on a quick-adjust bracelet. This year the brand launched an even deadlier duo of mid-sized Spring Drive divers, and probably has another commercial success on deck for next year. But in the background, the Shinshu Watch Studio, where all Spring Drive watches are made, continues its fine watchmaking efforts with the stunning diamond and Mozambique garnet set “Red Lion” ref. SBGD228, and the “Hisen” SBGZ011 reviewed here. Aesthetically, it is my least favorite of the four engraved-case models the brand has produced in recent memory — my favourites being the SBGZ001 “Snowflake” the astral SBGZ007 — due to the dial being too busy. However, the engraved 44GS case is almost magical, reminding me of the Quartz VFA ref. 3823-7030 and 3820-6000. L...

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G-015 “Rose Gilt” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5227G-015 “Rose Aug 11, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G-015 “Rose Gilt”

Patek Philippe’s headline launches this year included the surprising Celestial ref. 6105G and Nautilus 50th anniversary editions, but also more classical, yet under-the-radar, watches, like the Calatrava ref. 5227G-015 with a “rose-gilt” dial and hinged case back. Though the Calatrava ref. 5227 with its distinctive “officer’s case” has been in the catalogue for well over a decade, the latest iteration is the best yet. The combination is somewhat formulaic – “salmon” dial and white gold case – but it is good looking and evocative of old-school Patek Philippe dress watches. At the same time, this new variant of the ref. 5227 contains a latest-generation automatic movement. Initial thoughts Ironically two of the standout launches by Patek Philippe during Watches & Wonders were fairly basic, essentially facelifts of references that have been in the catalogue for decades. One was the ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar, and the other is this, the Calatrava ref. 5227G-015. Though both are entirely different in function and price, they are similar in style. The designs are both restrained and evocative of vintage Patek Philippe watches; both also have dials in popular shades. “Salmon” is definitely overdone as a dial colour, but it doesn’t stop this Calatrava from being really appealing. The ref. 5227 is typical Patek Philippe in form. Even though it’s at the larger end of the range for Calatrava models, it still feels elegant. The case is thin and sits fla...

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Hands-on - Nomos Hits the Sweet Spot with the Tangente Neomatik 38 Update Monochrome
Nomos Hits Aug 10, 2026

Hands-on - Nomos Hits the Sweet Spot with the Tangente Neomatik 38 Update

Unlike the noise generated by the release of the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers in 2025, Nomos Glashütte’s novelties at Watches & Wonders this year focused more on refined versions of its core collection. Among these refinements was the Tangente Neomatik 38 Update, featuring the brand’s patented peripheral ring date complication, which returned in a more […]

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Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral Aug 7, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral

The Tourbillon Sidéral debuted last year to mark Breguet’s 250th anniversary. This year, the brand is celebrating the 225th anniversary of its founder’s best-known achievement: the tourbillon. For this occasion, Breguet released a quartet of new references, among them the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT, a 50-piece limited edition in platinum, once again featuring an in-house aventurine enamel dial. Initial thoughts Despite being the brand’s first-ever flying tourbillon, the Tourbillon Sidéral feels somewhat familiar. That’s because its cal. 187M1 is derived from the brand’s original wristwatch tourbillon movement, the cal. 558, released in 1989. That explains the familiar off-centre dial arrangement and full-plate architecture visible through the case back. Within this lineage, the Tourbillon Sidéral can be considered the spiritual heir and technical successor to the Classique Tourbillon Messidor 5335 released 2007, a watch that seemed to suspend its tourbillon in mid-air. In fact, this mystery tourbillon was driven by a sapphire crystal drive wheel, and its upper pivot was supported by a sapphire crystal bridge. The Tourbillon Sidéral elevates this concept to its natural conclusion, dispensing with the upper support bridge entirely, resulting in a true flying tourbillon. Unfortunately, the two-armed tourbillon cage itself spans almost the entire width of the opening, and at times resembles an upper support bridge, at least until the eye registers ...

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