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Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a spectacular pink gold Reverso with a minute repeater powered by a new, fully integrated and shaped in-house movement. Taking advantage of the sleek Art Deco geometry of the Reverso and its swivelling case with two faces, the Grande Maison showcases its refined artistic crafts with an elegant guilloché decoration on the front […]
SJX Watches
Rolex has launched its first-ever ceramic dial with the GMT-Master II ref. 126729 VTNR. Left-handed like the “Sprite” of 2022, the new GMT-Master II is available only in 18k white gold – unsurprising since Rolex typically rolls out new innovations or features in precious metals. Dial aside, the rest is classic GMT-Master II. The movement is the latest-generation cal. 3285, while the bezel insert is in the same material as the dial, Cerachrom, Rolex speak for ceramic. Initial thoughts Unlike the game-changing Land Dweller, the new GMT-Master II is typical Rolex in being an incremental improvement over past models. Ceramic dials have been present in watchmaking for several years now, though this is a first for Rolex. Over time, ceramic dials will probably filter downwards into more affordable models as is the norm at the brand. Besides being a perfect match for the green half of the bezel, the ceramic dial is presumably more robustness than conventional lacquered dial, particularly in terms of scratch resistance and colour fastness (over decades or even centuries). Even though it’s not majorly novel, the ref. 126729 VTNR is a good looking watch and, in the usual Rolex fashion, is priced reasonably for what it is (though not cheaply). But it will also be a major hit, which makes availability scarce for some time to come. Two time zones One of the iconic travel watches, the GMT-Master II does a simple job very well. It can indicate up to three time zones with its combi...
Deployant
The Patek Philippe 5370R introduces a notable addition to the brand's collection with its debut in rose gold, marking a departure from previous versions. The use of a brown Grand Feu enamel dial paired with beige champlevé enamel subdials brings a distinct and elegant color combination.
Deployant
This year, Lange released 4 new references. We will focus on two of the highlights - the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar and the Odysseus in honey gold.
Fratello
One brand stands out to me in the avalanche of new releases during Watches and Wonders this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a remarkable series of new Reversos displaying an extensive range of models. The stellar Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold on the mesh bracelet is the absolute standout. For me, it is […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Black And Blue to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
In a rare move, Rolex has unveiled an all-new bracelet, the Settimo, that goes with the Perpetual 1908. Comprised of seven polished and rounded links, the Settimo is vintage in style and available only in yellow gold for now, to match the 1908 in the same metal. Though unusual for Rolex, the new bracelet is typical Rolex in quality and construction, making it robust despite the compact links and supple feel. It also incorporates the Crownclasp with its hidden, spring-loaded locking mechanism. Initial thoughts Unlike the new GMT-Master II, the Settimo on the 1908 is unexpected. The original 1908 was already surprising when it was launched two years ago, since it was Rolex’s first new attempt at a dress watch in a long time. The supple Settimo bracelet is unlike other Rolex bracelets, which tend to be heavy and solid. Both in terms of look and feel, the pairs well with the 1908, which is one of the thinnest Rolex models with an Oyster case. The retro straight end links are also a nice touch. When purchased together, the 1908 on a bracelet costs about US$12,000 over the same on a strap, which makes the bracelet something of a value buy in terms of precious metal bracelets. The bracelet can be retrofitted to a 1908 originally sold with a strap, but it costs substantially more on its own. The only downside of the new bracelet is the fact that it’s only available in yellow gold, for now at least. I expect it’ll be rolled out across the 1908 progressively over time. Settimo...
Deployant
A. Lange & Söhne unveils the Odysseus Honeygold, the brand's first sports watch rendered in proprietary honey-gold alloy, limited to 100 pieces only.
SJX Watches
The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross. Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal. Initial thoughts This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion. I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually. The Patrimony Self-Winding duo Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date. Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial. Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism. This 4 Hz movement platform has a relat...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross. In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions. Initial thoughts The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday. On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial. The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing. The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is...
SJX Watches
Among the new releases from A. Lange & Söhne this year, the blue-dialed 1815 34 mm might be the most surprising. Lange has a well-earned reputation for making chunky, complicated watches, but watches like this show the brand has good instincts when it comes to the opposite end of the spectrum and is equally capable of making simple, graceful watches. Available in 18k white or rose gold, the 1815 34 mm is a not a limited edition, and it is an alternative entry-level model in addition to the Saxonia Thin. Despite its simplicity, the 1815 is equipped with an all-new movement, the L152.1. Initial thoughts I’d argue few brands are as committed to understatement as Lange, and this watch is a testament to that. While there’s been an undeniable trend toward smaller, thinner watches in recent years, 34 mm is aggressively small, which makes it a statement of sorts; it’s the polar opposite of the big ostentatious watches that are all-too common. Candidly, a 34 mm watch is not for everyone, but that’s kind of the point. The key difference between this new 1815 and those we’ve come to know is its diminutive 34 mm case, which makes it the smallest 1815 to-date, matching the diameter of the original Saxonia. In fact, at just 5.9 mm thick, it’s the smallest watch Lange has ever made. But despite its small size, the new 1815 retains the brand’s signature faceted lugs and brushed case band. The movement fills the case neatly, and even though the case back is slim, it still f...
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SJX Watches
Topping A. Lange & Söhne’s 2025 line-up is the Minute Repeater Perpetual. Featuring a compact platinum case and black enamel dial, the new flagship watch of the Saxonia line marks the first time Lange has combined these two classic complications on their own. Limited to 50 pieces in platinum, the Repeater Perpetual is positioned near the top of the current catalogue. Beyond the technical complexity, it’s been endowed with an exceptional white gold and black enamel dial crafted in-house, and features the frosted movement finish that’s often reserved for the brand’s special editions. Initial thoughts It’s always nice to see a brand cover new ground, especially when that ground is the tried-and-true combination of a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. It’s an extravagant, decadent watch that combines one of the most legible perpetual calendar layouts with one of the industry’s most technically sophisticated minute repeaters. Beginning with its compact form, the Repeater Perpetual packs 640 components inside a platinum case that’s just 40.5 mm wide and 12.5 mm thick; roughly the same dimensions as a Rolex Submariner. It features an enamel dial in deep black, which is always a risk, since even the tiniest imperfections tend to stand out vividly. A cynic might point out that the new calibre L122.2 is largely a mashup of a Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange Minute Repeater, but to do so would be to miss the point. The movement is everything Lange does be...
Hodinkee
Two full-gold Cubitus models now in a 40mm case.
Hodinkee
The Patek that shook the watch world to its core in 2015, refreshed with an ivory lacquered dial and white gold case.
Monochrome
Vintage pilot watches have soared in popularity with remakes of legitimate aviator watches by historical brands and look-alikes by countless others. However, when Patek Philippe introduced its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 during Baselworld 2015, it caught everybody off guard. Presented in white gold with a blue dial and pushers on the left, the […]
Monochrome
Armin Strom is a revered name among horophiles, an independent brand acclaimed for rekindling the spirit of resonance in wristwatches. Last year, Armin Strom introduced its 18th in-house movement – calibre ARF22 – with the white gold Dual Time GMT Resonance with impressive mechanics and finishings on both sides of the case. Offering two independent […]
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Deployant
Angelus releases a new chronograph in two steel and yellow gold. This new release features a distance scale, and is a monopusher.
Monochrome
Arnold & Son presents the limited edition Constant Force Tourbillon 11, a classical beauty inspired by the first tourbillon created by Abraham-Louis Breguet based on John Arnold’s marine chronometer movement no. 11. Reunited once again, the yellow gold watch, with a constant force mechanism on the dial and a tourbillon regulator on the caseback, is […]
SJX Watches
An Italian retailer best known for representing independent watchmakers, GMT Milano has just announced its own Voutilainen limited edition, the KV20i Reversed GMT Milano. Based on Voutilainen’s inverted Vingt-8, the KV20i GMT edition sports a 4N gold-gilt movement that stands in bright contrast with the titanium case. The combination is classical and brings to mind historical pocket watches with frosted gilt movements. Initial thoughts The KV20i for GMT Milano employs a familiar combination of colours and finishes, but it stills manages to look fresh enough to be interesting. It helps that Voutilainen’s quality is impeccable, so everything that brand produces possesses a sheen that adds to the appeal, regardless of colour or style. A good part of Voutilainen’s business is customised watches, so the GMT edition isn’t unique per se. But it is a good looking watch that is instantly appealing. This KV20i is also priced the same as a standard version from Voutilainen, so it’s also a fair proposition in value terms. A reversed watch The KV20i is the second generation of Voutilainen’s “reverse” model that debuted in 2019. It’s essentially an inverted version of the Vingt-8, the brand’s signature chronometer wristwatch. The calibre has been turned over so that most of the action is on the front. The balance wheel, barrel, and going train are visible on the open dial, along with the indirect going train that relocates the hands from the back to front and centre....
WatchAdvice
I took the Panthère de Cartier in 18K yellow gold for review, and from the moment I held it, the watch’s elegance and refinement were undeniable. Cartier has once again proven that true luxury isn’t about complexity—it’s about timeless design, effortless wearability, and an unmistakable presence on the wrist. What We Love: The timepiece has a well-balanced design that sits elegantly on the wrist. The white dial perfectly complements the gold case, bezel and bracelet. The gold model, as expected, gives a more luxury appeal compared to the other variants of the timepiece and has a shine that is hard to take your eyes away from! What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet for a better snug fit. Due to the highly polished finish of the gold, the timepiece is prone to scratching While the gold is stunning on the wrist, it doesn’t offer the same versatility as the steel for everyday wear. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Cartier is renowned for crafting timepieces that strike the perfect balance between subtle elegance and distinctive flair, allowing them to stand out without being overtly flashy. The brand’s mastery lies in its use of unconventional shapes and design elements that enhance a watch’s character without overpowering its essence. The Panthère de Cartier is a perfect example of this philosophy—its design is simple and refined, yet beneath its understated appearance...
WatchAdvice
Building on the success of the yellow gold 222 reissue in 2022, Vacheron Constantin started its 270th-anniversary celebration in full swing this year with the introduction of the 222 in Steel, a long-awaited addition to its Historiques collection. What We Love: Timeless design of the 222 lives on. The stunning matte blue dial does justice to this timepiece, making it even more appealing. Case and bracelet design is exceptional with modern finishes. What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of finishing on movement (skeletonised rotor perhaps?) Water resistance of 50m could be improved to offer better assurance for daily wearability. Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 In January 2025, Vacheron Constantin kicked off its 270th-anniversary celebrations in spectacular fashion with the highly anticipated release of the 222 in steel. 2025 is shaping up to be an incredible year in the watch world, with many brands celebrating their anniversaries, but none quite like Vacheron Constantin. There are only a few brands that have surpassed the 250-year anniversary mark, which, when you think about it, is quite astonishing. Vacheron Constantin is one of those brands, but even more rare is that they have been in continuous production since 1755, a feat that remains unmatched in the world of horology. Over its 270-year history, Vacheron Constantin has created some genuinely timeless watches. From the FiftyS...
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Fratello
In total, Swatch has introduced 30 MoonSwatch models since 2022. First, there were the original 11 MoonSwatch variants, and then, a year later, we saw 11 others with a Moonshine Gold-plated hand. In 2024, we got two MoonSwatch Snoopy models, three new MoonSwatch Mission on Earth variants, a Mission to the Super Blue Moonphase, and […] Visit Hands-On With The MoonSwatch 1965 - The 30th Version Of The Bioceramic Speedmaster to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The flagship watch of Breitling’s best-known watch, the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is now more affordable. The latest iteration with an “ice blue” dial retains the specs of the pink gold 140th anniversary edition launched last year, but trades precious metal for steel. Unlike last year’s limited edition, the new steel model is regular production and is priced under US$30,000, over Breitling’s traditional sweet spot on the price spectrum but still half the retail of the anniversary edition. Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar_Ref. PB1920251C1P1_RGB Initial thoughts The new Navitimer B19 keeps it affordable, relatively speaking, by combining Breitling’s excellent in-house B01 movement with the tried-and-tested Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module. The resulting watch is thick at almost 15 mm high, but combines several complications in Breitling’s iconic slide-rule pilot’s chronograph. While the watch is pricier than most of Breitling’s offerings, it is one of the few perpetual calendar chronographs in this price range. Most of such watches tend to be a lot more expensive, although Austrian independent watchmaker Habring² offers similar for less in keeping with its focus on affordable complications. Value proposition The new B19 retains the same basic specs as its precious metal counterpart. The stainless steel case measures 43 mm in diameter and 14.94 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 30 m, it features the Navit...
Fratello
The Vanac name may not ring a bell for anyone but the most hardcore King Seiko enthusiasts, but that did not stop Seiko from reissuing the watch in a new guise. Today, we see the introduction of the King Seiko Vanac SLA087 in purple/gold and the SLA083 in white/gold. As you can see from the […] Visit Introducing: The King Seiko Vanac SLA087 And SLA083 to read the full article.
Fratello
As a materials engineer, I get excited whenever a watchmaker uses an atypical material. Over the last decade, carbon and ceramics have become more prevalent for watch cases. However, aside from new gold alloys, it has been relatively quiet on the metals front. Using tantalum isn’t new, but it’s so uncommon that it deserves attention […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 21.01 “Project 21” In Tantalum to read the full article.
Fratello
Breitling introduced a new perpetual calendar chronograph caliber to celebrate the brand’s 140th birthday last year. The impressive movement was featured in a trio of rose gold limited editions. Today, caliber B19 gets a permanent foothold in Breitling’s collection. This is the Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar. With such a descriptive name, I […] Visit Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar In Steel And Platinum to read the full article.
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