Hodinkee
Introducing: Parmigiani's Latest Tonda PF Sport Chronograph In Rose Gold, Now With No Date
Much has stayed the same, but with the right tweaks made, this Sport Chronograph is the best yet.
Results for Swiss Made
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
Industry News - Swatch Group Reports Sales Down 7% and Profit Decline for First Half of 2025
In a challenging environment for the watch industry, Swatch Group, the Swiss powerhouse owner of brands such as Omega, Longines, Tissot and Breguet, reported sales of CHF 3,059 million for the first half of 2025, representing a decline of 7.1% at constant exchange rates and 10.4% on a comparable basis. The operating profit dropped to […]
Fratello
Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Jorg’s Favorites From Tudor, Laventure, Nomos, And Rolex
In the last installment of our series on our favorite summer watches, Robert-Jan took a slightly different approach that I loved. Connecting watches to destinations made it more personal. Additionally, it sparked a lively discussion on a variety of topics in the comments. But my brain is also wired similarly to his. Whenever I think […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Jorg’s Favorites From Tudor, Laventure, Nomos, And Rolex to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: F.P. Journe's Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis - The Largest Baguette-Cut Rubies Ever Used In Watchmaking
Journe's maximalist approach to a tourbillon meets a maximalist approach to gem-setting for one of the most outrageous watches the brand has ever made.
Teddy Baldassarre
Valjoux 7750: The Story Of The World's Most Famous Chronograph
The Valjoux 7750 chronograph caliber has been a mainstay of the Swiss watch industry for more than 50 years, finding its way into hundreds of watch models, under many dozens of names, and providing the technical base for numerous high complications over the years. Why is it so ubiquitous and still such an enduring presence in the watch world today? Here is a brief history of the "workhorse" mechanism that became the world's most famous and familiar chronograph movement. Valjoux 7750 Roots: The Vallée de Joux Sunset over the Vallée de Joux In actuality, the origins of the Valjoux 7750 go back much longer than the half-century it has actually been on the market. The company that came to be called “Valjoux” started up at the very beginning of the 20th century, taking its original name, Reymond Frères SA, from its founders, brothers John and Charles Reymond. The company, which specialized in making mechanical chronograph movements for military and sport-oriented timekeepers, changed its name in 1929 to Valjoux - a shortened reference to the scenic Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, where it and many of its client watchmakers were located. The firm’s most successful and historically impactful creations included the manually wound, column-wheel-driven, monopusher Caliber 22, in 1914, and its even more significant successor, the smaller, longer-lived Caliber 23, in 1916. In honor of the founding brothers' surname, Valjoux movements were inscribed with a shield em...
Fratello
Hands-On With Funky New Tusenö Supervintage Collection
If we mention the name Tusenö, most of you will immediately think of the popular Shellback diver. The Swedish brand has released a small selection of models in the past few years, but the Shellback has made waves as one of the best affordable dive watches on the market. Now, the young Gothenburg-based brand surprises […] Visit Hands-On With Funky New Tusenö Supervintage Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Game Changer…? Casio Launches its First Mechanical Watch, the Edifice EFK-100 Automatic
It’s been several years since the Swiss abandoned the truly affordable, sub-400-euro mechanical watch category. Once a gateway to Swiss mechanical watchmaking at reasonable prices, lower-end Swatch Group brands (Tissot and Hamilton) are now priced above that range. This situation, however, has been extremely beneficial to two Japanese giants, a sort of duopoly composed of […]
Quill & Pad
Durian: The King of Fruits - Absolutely Delicious, But the Smell is Unforgettable (and That’s Putting it Mildly)
The first description Ken Gargett ever heard of the durian fruit was that it was like “eating custard over an open sewer”. He never forgot that . . . but it made him curious. He he reveals why despite its obnoxious odor, durian is considered by many as 'The King of Fruits.'
Monochrome
First Look - The 2025 Benrus Type 1 MilSpec, a Tough and Purposeful Combat Tool
Benrus is one of the few American watch companies with a claim to fame for practical, no-nonsense timepieces. Founded in 1921 by the Lazrus brothers, Benjamin, Oscar, and Ralph, the company combined Swiss precision with American assembly and marketing to carve out a spot in watchmaking history. Starting in New York City, the brothers pooled […]
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Titan Nebula Jalsa
Here is our hands-on review of the Nebula by Titan Jalsa release last week in India. The watch is proudly proclaimed to be Made in India.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Cuervo y Sobrinos Chronograph Emilio Carranza
Cuervo y Sobrinos is a rarity in the watch world as the only Swiss brand with Cuban roots. Founded in 1882 by an Asturian immigrant, Ramón Cuervo, the brand flaunts its Latin origins with a flamboyant design style that captures its heyday in the 1950s. The latest chronograph is dedicated to Emilio Carranza, a Mexican […]
SJX Watches
Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part I
The invention of the hairspring was among the greatest breakthroughs in horology, since its inception suddenly made mechanical timepieces portable, transforming clocks into watches. This not only marked the start of precision timekeeping, but also set mankind upon the long road to perfecting the accuracy of mechanical watches, arguably the most sophisticated pieces of kit on Earth at the time, when such precision was paramount for fields as varied as navigation, warfare, and astronomy. The hairspring turned 350 years old in 2025 and we’re marking the occasion with a series of stories on the topic, including the story of the spiral hairspring and also the importance and evolution of the overcoil. Now we turn to temperature compensation and metallurgy in a two-part story covering the evolution of the hairspring materials up until metal alloys. More exotic materials and inventions will follow in Part II. Elasticity and thermal expandability One of the fundamental factors in hairspring function is ambient temperature, simply because metal alloys expand or contract uni-directionally with a change in temperature. As a result, watchmakers used calorimetry, the science of temperature effects, and material science, specifically metal alloys, to their gain in advancing hairspring technology. The equation below shows the relation between the initial length of a metal strip L0, measured at a given temperature and the final length LT after a certain change in temperature. The equ...
Fratello
Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials
Orient Star made its big comeback to Europe a few years ago. Since then, the brand’s M Collections have been taking center stage. While Grand Seiko draws inspiration from local nature, sometimes just outside its studio in Shizukuishi, Iwate Prefecture, Orient Star finds inspiration further afield. Much further indeed, as Orient Star bases its dials […] Visit Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The Stylish Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm Power Reserve-Small Seconds
France’s golden age of horology during the 17th and 18th centuries produced notable figures like Julien Le Roy, Ferdinand Berthoud and Abraham-Louis Breguet. And it’s fair to say that had it not been for the expulsion of French Protestants following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 by King Louis XIV, Swiss watchmaking […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype
As longtime, mutually beneficial relationships in the world of high luxury go, the one between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. is perhaps the most quintessential. The esteemed Swiss watchmaker behind classic timepieces like the Calatrava and Nautilus and the elite retailer/jeweler renowned for its distinctive blue gift boxes have been partners for more than 170 years, and Patek Philippe watches with a Tiffany signature are among the rarest and most coveted items on a serious watch collector’s wishlist. In this feature, I explore the long and prestigious history behind Patek Philippe’s Tiffany watches and spotlight how the two world-famous brands continue to collaborate today. Patek Philippe: The Origin Story The company that would be known as Patek Philippe had its foundation laid in 1839, when a Polish watchmaker named Antoni Norbert de Patek and his business partner, Czech-born François Czapek, partnered to form Patek, Czapek, & Cie, in Geneva. The company produced pocket watches for a relatively brief period before disagreements between the two founders precipitated the dissolving of the partnership, and the firm, by 1845. That same year, Patek began a new partnership with a French watchmaker named Adrien Philippe, whose historical claim to fame was the invention of the keyless winding system for watches. Together, they established a new company, Patek & Cie., to continue making watches, which officially became Patek, Philippe, & Cie. in 1851. That year was pivo...
Monochrome
Video - Inside Minerva, the Hidden Gem of Hand-Finishing and Chronographs
Hidden in the Swiss Jura mountains, in the small village of Villeret, is probably one of the most impressive manufactures we’ve encountered. A true hidden gem, a discreet diamond of traditional watchmaking. The name of this manufacture: Minerva. The brand was founded over 165 years ago and has gained an impressive reputation among a small […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Stowa Chrono ABT 24H Limited Edition
Cars and watches seem to be a perfect fit, a match made in heaven, as they say. Historically, there’s always been a deep connection between the two, as timing is essential in motorsports, so it’s only natural that brands explore this in many ways. Car-themed watches are not uncommon, as brands often strike partnerships with […]
Monochrome
First Look - A More Compact 40mm Version of the Norqain Independence Skeleton
Norqain, the young, independent Swiss brand, produces contemporary, adventure-oriented watches. Many of the brand’s most popular models belong to the Independence collection, including the high-tech carbon fibre Wild One, conceived in collaboration with Jean-Claude Biver, the Skeleton Flyback Chrono featuring a proprietary manufacture calibre, and Norqain’s first skeletonised model. In line with current market watch […]
SJX Watches
Inside Akrivia’s Enamel Workshop in Geneva
The world of Swiss watchmaking is a small one; everyone seems to know everyone. This is especially true among the exclusive ranks of enamellers. In total, there are about 120 practicing enamellers in Switzerland, largely concentrated in Geneva, which has been a leading hub for fine enamelling for more the 400 years. Of these, four artisans have recently taken up residence at Émailleurs de la Cité (EC) in Geneva’s Old Town. A newly established enamel workshop founded by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia and Florent Olivier Martin, EC crafts a small number of grand feu enamel dials annually for Mr Rexhepi’s own watches and for select clients like Biver. Though recently opened, the workshop has the feel of a mature and highly organised operation, benefiting from the obvious experience of the staff – Mr Martin was formerly the production director at the respected dial specialist Olivier Vaucher – and the attention to detail for which Mr Rexhepi is known. The enamel workshop is a fitting addition to his growing empire, and is conveniently located just steps away from Akrivia’s watchmaking atelier on Grand-Rue, the picturesque cobblestone thoroughfare that runs through the Old Town. The hand-engraved gratté pattern is applied personally by Mr Rexhepi. The art of enamel Brands like Patek Philippe consider enamel a “rare handcraft”, and for good reason. While industrial groups like the Swatch Group seem to have largely mastered the production of quality enamel dials at (v...
Quill & Pad
New Release: Angelus Chronodate Titanium, Magnetic Silver Edition featuring Chronograph plus Peripheral Date
Chronodate is a fusion of two different styles: Angelus, the historic brand and its Swiss watchmaking heritage, and Angelus, the technical, modern brand with a penchant for complications. With this colour combination, the house presents the most striking version of this chronograph collection.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot PRX Chronograph Review
The Tissot PRX Chronograph is one of the latest releases from the Tissot PRX collection, one of the Swiss brand’s major success stories of the past decade despite its relatively recent introduction (or, more accurately, re-introduction) to the market. Engaging the 21st-Century watch-aficionado zeitgeist with its crowd-pleasing combination of classical sport-luxury design, intriguing colorways, and accessible price points, the Tissot PRX has grown from a handful of models to become a modern pillar of the 170-year-old brand’s sprawling and diverse portfolio, adding the first chronograph models to the growing lineup in 2022. Tissot PRX Origins It all started with the original Tissot PRX watch, which debuted in 1978 and which, like many watches from that era, was powered by a quartz movement. The PRX was distinguished by its flat, barrel-shaped, multi-faceted case, which integrated smoothly into a flexible, articulated steel bracelet; it took its three-initial model name from its attributes: the “P” and “R” stand for “precise” and “robust,”respectively, and the “X” is actually a Roman numeral “10” depicting the model’s 10 atmospheres (aka 100 meters) of water resistance. The overall aesthetic was one that today’s watch historians will readily recognize, hearkening back to the groundbreaking design of a much pricier watch that had debuted several years earlier, in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The latter had, in fact, exerted influence...
Hodinkee
Business News: Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux, And Richemont-Backed FHH To Offer Public Online Training And Education Classes As Watchmakers Face Headwinds
The general public can now take courses and learn about watchmaking from Swiss-based industry group.
Monochrome
Opinion - Why I’d Choose the 36mm Rolex Land-Dweller over the 40mm Version
As of now, you certainly know everything there is to know about Rolex’s latest collection, a watch that made great noise during its presentation at Watches & Wonders 2025, the Land-Dweller. Quite a surprise, both visually and mechanically (mostly mechanically), the collection has been quite a hot topic of discussion, with divided opinions amongst the […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Pelagos FXD: The Complete Guide
When Tudor released the Pelagos FXD in late 2021 an important element of the brand's heritage was brought to light with it. A rich history of working with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, was now being tied to a modern creation from Tudor in a new partnership. While the history brings an unusual depth to this watch (no pun intended), it’s the manner in which the Tudor Pelagos FXD has been executed that has made it truly interesting to a modern audience. This wasn’t a throwback design commemorating the past. Rather, this was a function-forward, modern design, built to spec for a niche group of divers in the French Navy. The FXD is a natural evolution of the Pelagos ethos, and its slightly unconventional approach has cemented its place in the hearts of many enthusiasts. Tudor took a slightly different route with the FXD when compared to the existing Pelagos references. The watch was designed with input from the Marine Nationale’s Commando Hubert unit in order to better suit its combat divers' needs for a specific maneuver they employed while traversing underwater. This maneuver would have them swimming segments in a set direction for a set period of time, before adjusting time and direction to tackle subsequent sections. To better assist in this exercise, the fully indexed bezel is bidirectional, and counts down rather than tracks elapsed time. This allows for fast, precise movement (this is a 120-click bezel), and no ambiguity when measuring a pre-set lengt...
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: David Beckham's Unique Diamond-Set Tudor Black Bay Chrono At Wimbledon
The one-of-one Tudor Black Bay Chrono was made for Beckham's 50th birthday.
Worn & Wound
The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Sir David Lionel Salomons - A Renowned Collector Of Breguet Watches
Sir David Lionel Salomons (1851–1925), the nephew of the original Sir David Salomons (1797–1873), was a renowned collector of Breguet watches and a significant figure in the world of horology. His passion for precision engineering, combined with his wealth and scholarly interest, made him one of the most prominent collectors of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s masterpieces. The Salomons were a highly respected family in 18th century London society. The family had arrived and settled in Bury St in the City of London from the Netherlands in the early 18th century, attracted by the financial opportunities in the developing British economy. They chose this part of the city because it was both a centre of the finance industry and had an established Jewish community. David Lionel’s Uncle was elected as the Lord Mayor of London in 1855 (below). He was the first Jewish Lord Mayor of London, and known for fighting the Jewish cause in Parliament, but he was also a pioneer of joint stock banking and held prominent positions in other fields. Sir David Salomons (1797–1873), Lord Mayor of London (1855). Solomon Alexander Hart (1806–1881). Guildhall Art Gallery. Image courtesy of City of London Corporation Early Life David Lionel Salomons, was born in Brighton. He was educated for a short period at University College, London, and afterwards at Caius College, Cambridge, where he graduated with natural science honours in 1874. He was a member of the Institution of Electrical Engi...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon
The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon marks the evolution in the ongoing collaboration between the Swiss indie brand and master watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. Building on the success of the previous “Time Eater” regulator models, part of Chaykin’s expressive Wristmons universe, the new model introduces a tourbillon with regulator display to the series […]
SJX Watches
The Forgotten Boston Collector Who Rivalled Henry Graves Jr.
Between 1885 and 1920, Elliot Cabot Lee (1854-1920) quietly built one of the world’s largest collections of very complicated watches, but unlike the famous rivals Henry Graves Jr. or James Ward Packard, both of whom favoured Swiss watches (and primarily Patek Philippe), Lee was a devotee of English watchmaking during its heyday. Many remarkable watches that were commissioned by Lee, or passed through his collection, have surfaced over the last few years, such as the J.W. Benson Supercomplication, the Dent Astronomical watch, or even J.P. Morgan’s pocket-planetarium, but with their provenance unknown. Most of Lee’s collection of pocket watches. Image – The National Jeweler 1922 A patrician collector Elliot Cabot Lee was born on April 16th, 1854 in Brookline, Massachusetts. Both of Lee’s parents hailed from Boston Brahmin families and were third cousins. His father, Henry Lee Jr., was a partner at investment bank Lee, Higginson & Company, where Lee also worked, though only briefly. His mother, Elizabeth Perkins Cabot, was the granddaughter of the extremely wealthy Thomas Handasyd Perkins – a slaver turned philanthropist. Lee graduated from Harvard with a law degree and passed the bar, though he seems to have practiced law little if at all. He was well-travelled and well-read, accumulating a notable book collection, according to the Brookline Historical society. Besides his watch collection, Lee also took an interest in the nascent automobile. He built a garage, o...
Fratello
Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Yellow”
Fabian “Spartacus” Cancellara is a Swiss cycling legend who not only won multiple world and Olympic championships but also wore the Tour de France’s yellow leader’s jersey for 29 days and won eight stages. The last time Cancellara raced in France was in 2016, and this year, he returns to the biggest bike race in […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Yellow” to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - A new Frost-Inspired Edition of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm
Without a doubt one of the best value propositions on the market, the Khaki Field Mechanical collection has grown drastically in recent years. Inspired by vintage field watches made by the company – the Hamilton “Hacked” watch – it combines cool military looks with a fair price and undeniable flair. In addition to the base […]