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Introducing: QPs, Tourbillons, Ceramic, And More – IWC Expands The Ingenieur With Complications And Materials [Live Photos]
The Ingenieur lineup expands in unexpected ways.
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Monochrome
First Look – The Chopard L.U.C. Strike One in Titanium with Salmon Dial
Thirty years ago, Chopard’s co-president, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, opened the Manufacture in Fleurier. The first in-house calibre, L.U.C 1.96, a slim automatic micro-rotor movement, made its debut inside the L.U.C XPS 1860 the following year. Rapidly ascending the complications ladder, in 2006, Chopard celebrated the tenth anniversary of its Manufacture with the release of the L.U.C […]
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko’s Nature-Inspired SBGZ011 Spring Drive Limited Release Shows The Shape of Water
Deep in the heart of a primeval forest lies a waterfall whose fresh spring waters are unspoilt by man, and whose mystic beauty is an endless source of inspiration - for the band of artisans who quietly engrave by hand some of the most intricately detailed watches in the world. It’s not a Studio Ghibli movie: the Tateshina Falls are real, located in central Japan’s Nagano Prefecture, which is also home to Grand Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio. And at Watches and Wonders 2026, a limited release pays tribute to this serene locale with a Spring Drive model that, according to Grand Seiko, “conveys time’s eternal flow in nature.” The Masterpiece Collection SBGZ011 takes Grand Seiko’s sharp-edged 44GS case - rendered in platinum - and imbues it with hand-engraved lines from lug to lug, around the bezel, and entirely within the dial (save for a thin minute ring). These dashed silver lines flow in colliding swirls, bursting forth and blending into each other with seeming chaos; Grand Seiko suggests that they represent spring water bubbling forth from below the earth’s surface. On the bezel and the case’s flat surfaces and intersecting ridges, the patterns appear even more dramatic, resembling petals of a monochromatic flower. And on the dial, the white-gold hands and markers provide smooth, brilliant contrast, while the Grand Seiko and Spring Drive logos are carved and inset in their own boxes. The manual-winding Caliber 9R02 is Grand Seiko’s thinnest Spri...
Monochrome
First Look – Chopard Updates the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS, with a New Bracelet and Champagne Dial
Chopard entered the luxury integrated sports watch sector in 2019 with its Alpine Eagle. While this might seem like a relatively late contestant, the roots of the Alpine Eagle can be traced to a sporty-chic 1980s model known as the St. Moritz. Marking the Chopard Manufacture’s 30th anniversary, the latest Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Grand Seiko SBGY043 Iwao Blue
The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection is home to some of the brand’s most restrained and poetic creations. Models such as the Omiwatari, Karasawa, and other hand-wound Spring Drive references demonstrate how minimalism, texture, and mechanical refinement can coexist. The new SBGY043 Iwao Blue keeps the successful, elegant formula that made earlier editions so attractive and […]
Video
A Ceramic Masterpiece? Hublot Big Bang Gray 42mm Review | In The Metal
Monochrome
Introducing – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel
Last year, Roger Dubuis unveiled the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, a revival of a signature biretrograde complication co-patented by founder Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor) in 1989. Although this calendar version is simpler than the double retrograde QP the two men developed, it features the signature retrograde aesthetic intimately associated with Roger Dubuis. Following the […]
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: A Quick Rundown of the New Hublot Big Bangs
Hublot has never trafficked in subtlety. The Big Bang chronograph first made its presence known with a 44mm size, hefty ceramic bezel with contrasting screws, and a rare combination of rose gold and rubber, which contrasted different textures with clashing case finishes. So what if it had an ETA movement-which, at the time, seemed more plebeian than the in-house movements of rival luxury chronographs? In that maximalist, McBling era, the stance and the presence were all that mattered. Hublot has only taken its flagship model to more audacious heights. At this year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva, the Big Bang Reloaded enters the collection, following the 20-year anniversary of the Big Bang, by combining the intricate case with Hublot’s in-house chronograph movement, the Unico calibre, bringing together all the things that Big Bang enthusiasts love. The Reloaded exemplifies Hublot’s adherence to high-tech materials: available in titanium, scratch-resistant 18-karat “Magic Gold,” and three options of ceramic: black, blue, and dark green. The strap, still in textured rubber, matches the case colors. Hublot introduced its Unico calibre in 2010, and now the HUB 1280 UNICO makes an appearance from behind a skeletonized and multi-layered dial: redesigned to match the stencil-style numbers, a date window at between 4 and 5 o’clock, and horizontally-placed chronograph registers. It’s an automatic flyback chronograph, with 43 jewels and a power reserve of 72 hour...
Deployant
WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors This year, Chopard’s WWG26 crop comprise of updates to the Alpine Eagle and L.U.C collection as well as the Happy Sport Happy Hearts and L’Heure du diamant for the ladies. Here is our commentary in italics and the release for our top two. WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard Commentary Alpine Eagle 41 [...] The post WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points
Since the third generation of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas arrived in 2016, the Maison has expanded the collection with everything from simple three-hand models to perpetual calendars and tourbillons. Yet for a watch originally designed with travel in mind, a basic second time zone display was missing. This was addressed in 2018 with the Overseas […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy, with Hand-Hammered Dials
Master watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani’s original Toric QP Rétrograde was Parmigiani Fleurier’s foundational watch marking the brand’s launch in 1996. Following the appointment of Guido Terreni in 2021, many of Michel Parmigiani’s models were put on standby to allow Terreni to chart the brand’s new design direction, with a primary focus on the Tonda […]
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If I Started Over, This Is the Watch Collection I'd Build (After Losing $300,000)
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Wanders to the Four Corners of Earth
Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points”, a four-watch collection which can be traced back to the prototype that accompanied Cory Richards on his climb on Everest back in 2019. Initial thoughts The Overseas collection is Vacheron Constantin’s own take on the luxury sports steel watch. Compared to similar offerings from Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin actively advertises the Overseas as a timepiece fit to be worn adventurously. The 2019 collaboration with photographer and climber Cory Richards proved that the Overseas Dual Time is as comfortable on the peaks of Everest as it is navigating boardrooms. This “Cardinal Points” collection refines and finishes the the Dual Time prototype piece from 2019. The four new references each come in a different colour scheme evocative of one cardinal point. The functional styling of the Everest prototype was kept intact, but the additional dial colours help the Dual Time appeal to a broader audience. According to Vacheron Constantin, the white suggests the icy North, brown evokes the fertile lands of the South, green represents West with its forests and finally blue signifies the Eastern line of the horizon. Although these associations might feel a bit forced, the idea of linking the Overseas Dual Time with the cardinal points stems from the fact that such a travel watch usually accompanies a traveler - who is at least symbolically guided by a compass and the cardinal p...
Monochrome
First Look – The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 in Dark Olive Green Ceramic
When IWC revived the Ingenieur in 2023, it did so by returning to Gérald Genta’s integrated-bracelet design, with functional screws, a structured dial and an emphasis on all things technical. Last year’s full-black ceramic Ingenieur Automatic 42 was quite exemplary. For 2026, IWC takes a more nuanced step with the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in dark […]
Deployant
WWG26: the new TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors TAG Heuer flexes their chronograph muscles with a new mechanism built with flexible components, fully developed by TAG Heuer LAB. This new movement is now released in the Monaco Collection as the Evergraph. Press Release information with commentary in italics. WWG26: the new TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph is revealed with [...] The post WWG26: the new TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier references the Riviera’s origins with new quartz Riviera 73 models
A new quartz Riviera brings heavy vintage vibes with its sizing and styling, thanks to the thin quartz movement inside. The post Baume & Mercier references the Riviera’s origins with new quartz Riviera 73 models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Launches Two New Pink Gold Versions Of The Historiques American 1921
Two sizes, two new dials, still keeping the history alive.
Video
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Deployant
Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Ferdinand Berthoud flipped their movement released 10 years ago in the FB 1. The new watch is Chapter 1 Chronomètre FB 2TV is like an inverted version of the FB 1. But of course, as this is a Ferdinand Berthoud, the entire movement is reworked to flip over, and the entire movement is now visible [...] The post Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Hodinkee
Introducing: An Old-School Richard Mille Returns With The RM 55-01
No longer a "Bubba Watson" specific model, the new RM 55-01 steps out on its own.
Fratello
Introducing: The Updated Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection
Alpina revisits one of its most recognizable collections with a fresh update for 2026. The Startimer enters a new era with refined proportions and enhanced legibility. Most notably, Alpina reduces the overall case size by 10 percent. The stainless steel case now measures 40mm in diameter and just 10.14mm thick. As a result, the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Two Hands, in 34mm and 28mm
H. Moser & Cie.’s Streamliner, launched in 2020, is the brand’s take on a luxury integrated bracelet sports watch with fluid, sculptural lines. Built around the collection’s streamlined case architecture and ergonomic steel bracelet, the collection welcomes a compact 34mm reference and a petite 28mm model, both of these Streamliner Two Hands being powered by […]
Deployant
Live from WWG26: highlights of the new releases from Cartier
Cartier, the manufacture of shapes flexed their muscles in this year’s WWG26 releases. We picked 4 our favourites as the highlights.
Video
Patek Philippe's $40K Mistake? The Cubitus Scandal Explained
Monochrome
Introducing – The Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic, a Slimmer and More Refined Update
When Alpina showcased the Startimer back in 2011, it revisited its early 20th-century pilot’s watches. A part of the catalogue ever since, the appeal was simple. Clear cockpit styling, solid specifications, and a price that did not push things too far. At the centre of this collection sits the Startimer Pilot Automatic, the uncomplicated three-hander […]
Monochrome
Introducing – New Vacheron Constantin Tribute to Great Civilisations, Inspired by Masterpieces from the Louvre
Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations series turns the Louvre’s ancient masterpieces into wearable miniature artworks, blending high watchmaking with some of the Maison’s most demanding decorative crafts. Limited to 15 pieces each, the four watches use the calibre 2460 G4/2, a hand-finished automatic movement with peripheral displays that frees the dial for […]
Time+Tide
Bulgari ups the ante with new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon in full Platinum
Bulagri brings the most noble of the precious metals to its most astounding thin watch with a new Octo Finissimo Ulta TourbillonThe post Bulgari ups the ante with new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon in full Platinum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon
I am a fan of Formex. I like that the brand attempts to create the best-built watch within its chosen price category. The designs aren’t for everyone, but the build quality is undoubtedly excellent. I’ve had hands-on experience with Formex’s Field and Reef models. On both counts, they left me impressed, particularly given their asking […] Visit Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Schwarz Etienne 1902 Synergy by Peter Speake
Collaborations in watchmaking are nothing new, and the 1902 Synergy by Peter Speake builds on that idea by taking Schwarz Etienne’s 1902 collection and bringing in an independent watchmaker to work on it. In this case, the base is the 1902 Réserve de Marche, a watch built around traditional hand-wound mechanics and following on from […]
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