Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: From Luke Combs' Lange To Jay-Z's Patek, The Watches Of The 2024 Grammy Awards
Taylor Swift was just the beginning – here are our favorite watches from last night's Grammys.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
The Most Audacious TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Week
TAG Heuer marked LVMH Watch Week with some high-end experimental pieces. With fancy watch complications and highly scientific lasers and lab work, the watches represent impressive steps forward in technology in general. They’re also just really cool to look at. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox uses the same circular brushed finish as the Carrera Chronograph we told you about last week, and the same eye-catching teal green, which TAG Heuer says is meant to pay tribute to vintage racing colors. But the rest of its dial’s details diverge radically from that of the Chronograph. Two registers, one at the 9 o’clock and the other at the 3 o’clock, and an aperture at the 6 o’clock that lets you look into the tourbillon give the watch a very balanced and maximalist look. TAG Heuer knows they’ve got something with the Glassbox crystal design and decided not to mess with a good thing. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon has the same domed sapphire crystal that TAG fans have loved in other releases since this form factor debuted a year ago. The exhibition caseback is also sapphire, giving you a good look at the Heuer 02–TH20-09 movement inside. Tourbillon movements are incredibly complex, with a rotating cage surrounding the movement that offsets the effect of gravity on the accuracy of the watch. As a result, the movement is a bit bigger than the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph’s automatic movement, necessitating a 42mm dial with a 48.6mm lug to lug ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Starry Dial of the Ace Jewelers x Christiaan van der Klaauw stAriadne
It might sound surprising, but the Dutch watchmaking scene is much more active than many imagine. One of the most prominent and enduring names in the Netherlands is, without a doubt, Christiaan van der Klaauw. Specialised in astronomical timepieces – think about the Planetarium – CdvK has recently been acquired by Pim Koeslag (ex-Frederique Constant) […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Haim Legacy Automatic Collection
Once a small brand has gained some traction, they usually do one of two things: dig deep into a hero product, or continue to delve into their brand ethos to create new things. Haim Watch Company seems to be steadfastly in the latter category. Following initial releases like the L2 and the Descent which featured design codes that clearly linked them together, one would be forgiven for assuming they’d mine these models for all they’re worth. But instead, the Chicago-based brand is building new styles that only expand the definition of what a Haim watch can be. Their latest collection is their Legacy Automatic. Coming in three colorways, this line-up shows a break from the previous generations of Haim watches and nods at real growth towards higher-quality, and more eye-catching designs. Compare, for example, the original Legacy collection to the Legacy Automatic. While the former has a fairly inconspicuous charm to it, you can begin to see that Haim is ready to cement itself as a brand that can take risks and maintain its mission statement as a microbrand that brings a luxury feel to a relatively affordable price point. The Legacy Automatic references boast a lot of firsts for the brand, so I’d like to start with those as a sort of headliner for the collection. For one, it’s the first time and date-only design within the Legacy line-up. Not only that, but it’s Haim’s first custom designed caliber (more on what that really means soon) and is the first watch in Ha...
Fratello
Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports Rally Divers SRPK65 And SRPK67
The Seiko 5 Sports line, especially when using the SKX case, has inspired hundreds of references over the past several years. Whether they’re inspired by manga, music, motorsport, or vintage watches, this line is like Japan’s version of Swatch. To be fair, many of the releases pass me by. However, two models inspired by the […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports Rally Divers SRPK65 And SRPK67 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Taylor Swift Wearing A Watch Necklace To The Grammys
And with that, the watch necklace trend is officially official.
Deployant
Review: The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Xiali Calendar Watch
The calendar is an indispensable component of civilisation. It allows us to chart the flow of time in order to better organise milestones pertaining to religion, agriculture, and social life, among other things. Of the many types of calendars that we are aware of, the Chinese calendar remains one of the most complex. The ChineseRead More
Monochrome
First Look – The Grand Seiko Pink Snowflake SBGA497, Celebrating 20 Years of the 9R Spring Drive Calibre
Even though its development started during the 1970s, it took some years for Seiko and Grand Seiko to finally present their first movement equipped with the Spring Drive technology (the very first was a Seiko in 1999). In 2004, after more than 2 decades of research, the first generation of Grand Seiko Spring Drive was […]
Fratello
A Monday Morning Eulogy For The Rolex Milgauss
As we gather here on this cold Monday morning in February to celebrate the life of the Rolex Milgauss, let us remember the color, antimagnetic properties, and accuracy it brought into the lives of so many watch fans. May its memory continue to inspire and uplift Rolex in the search for a worthy successor, and […] Visit A Monday Morning Eulogy For The Rolex Milgauss to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary
This year marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko‘s introduction of the 9R movement, featuring its revolutionary Spring Drive technology. The concept, conceived in the 1970s and which took decades to implement, aimed to blend the force of a mainspring with electronic watchmaking technology and surpass the precision of conventional mechanical watches. Now, 9R-family calibres […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Grand Seiko SBGA497 - Celebrating 20 Years Of Automatic Spring Drive Watches
Automatic Spring Drive technology turns 20 this year! That seems like a fair reason for celebration. Grand Seiko felt the same and introduced this SBGA497 to mark the occasion. We get a high-intensity titanium creation with a familiar case shape and dial texture. Both pay homage to important references in Spring Drive history. The SBGA497 […] Visit Hands-On With The New Grand Seiko SBGA497 - Celebrating 20 Years Of Automatic Spring Drive Watches to read the full article.
Revolution
The Best Sport Watch of 2023 You Might Have Missed
Allow us to shed some light on one of Wei’s favorite watches that may have caught your attention in 2023 – the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium. The Excalibur line by Roger Dubuis draws inspiration from the Arthurian legend and has been a flagship collection for the Geneva-based brand since 2005. One of the distinctive […]
Worn & Wound
The Roundup: Diverse Tool Watches from Germany, Japan, and America And Some Great Gear
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase! This week we lean heavily into the sport watch category (what’s new) by highlighting two inimitable Laco DIN watches from Germany and throwing a spotlight on Seiko’s retro-cool SPRK17. Our gear and accessory recommendations this week are particularly suited to virtually any collector, and last but not least, we close with a fantastic bargain on an excellent Timex Expedition. There’s lots to sink your teeth into, so without further ado, this is your Roundup for this week. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit high...
Deployant
We pick our favourite six Year of the Dragon watches
Here is our pick of six of our favourites. And with Chinese New Year only a week away, it is not too late to get a watch to usher in the Wood Dragon!
Monochrome
Buying Guide – The Buying Guide Goes Technical With Six Non-Swiss Lever Escapement Watches
Like clockwork, every Sunday, we group together a bunch of watches around a common theme in our Buying Guide. This can revolve around a whole range of topics, such as colours, shapes and materials but also a certain style or even complications. Very rarely do we go deep into the movement to distinguish a series […]
Fratello
An Owner’s Review: Two Months With The Second-Generation Apple Watch SE
The subject of this article has become utterly ubiquitous. As a lover of traditional watches, however, I am shocked that one is currently on my wrist. Through some matter of “luck” and a Black Friday Christmas sale, I am now the owner of a second-generation Apple Watch SE. I have put it through its paces […] Visit An Owner’s Review: Two Months With The Second-Generation Apple Watch SE to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Khanjar and Qaboos Rolexes: Are they the Vintage Watch Industry’s Blood Diamonds? (Updated with New Information) – Reprise
Increasing demand for timepieces, especially Rolexes, with the Omani emblem is understandable given the high quality, good condition, demonstrable provenance, and rarity of most of these watches, combined with the fact that they had often been presented to their first owners in the 1970s by Sultan Qaboos in person as a token of gratitude for services rendered. Colin Alexander Smith takes a very close look at the meaning behind these rare timepieces and in this updated version of the article debunks one theory behind the dial symbol.
Quill & Pad
Champagne Lallier: Getting into the Ground Floor Early
For champagne lovers, Ken Gargett recommends taking a look at the Lallier range. You might not be getting in right on the ground floor, but awfully close. And you’ll never regret it.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Making It The Hard Way At The 2024 Rolex 24 At Daytona
Documenting the legendary race from the stands to the track to the watches at the podium.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Breaking Down Sartory Billard’s New Movement, Tracking the Northern Lights, and Unboxing the Apple Vision Pro
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Sartory Billard’s SB08 Movement Gets Broken Down at Revolution Our friends at Revolution have what is easily the most interesting technical watchmaking article we’ve seen in quite some time this week. In part 2 of their examination of Sartory Billard’s SB08 caliber, Cheryl Chia takes a deep dive into the ongoing work in developing this complicated, unique, and frankly quite exciting movement that features jumping hours and jumping minutes and a tourbillon. Part 1 of the three-part series was published in October, and serves as a higher level overview of the idea behind the SB08, and a little background on the Sartory Billard brand, while this latest article digs a bit more into the weeds of the mechanics, and some of the inherent challenges in developing a movement that requires so much power. We don’t often get a view into movement design in what amounts to real time, so this is a must read for anyone with an interest in the highly complicated mechanical calibers. Chia takes us through some fairly complex watchmaking problem solving, and provides a taste of what finished watc...
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – Porsche Triumphs At The 2024 Edition Of The Rolex 24 At Daytona
It’s no secret Porsche is extremely capable of building race-winning cars in all forms of racing. From Formula 1 to Rallying, the brand has conquered it all. But its biggest legacy perhaps, is in endurance racing, with a record-setting 19 overall wins at Le Mans and 18 overall wins at the Daytona 24 Hours race. […]
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The Squale MATIC Australian Limited Edition
We’ve gone hands on with the Australian limited edition Squale MATIC, sold exclusively through StarBuy. Here’s what we think! What We Love The green gradient dialWearability for a large watchTropic strap is very comfortable in Summer What We Don’t Crown at 4 o’clock is hard to useDomed crystal reflects a lot of lightNot for the faint of wrist Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Squale may not be a brand you would have heard mentioned too often. It dates back to the 50’s when Charles and Helene Von Buren established the Von Büren SA watch factory in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Being passionate divers, their focus was on developing watches specifically for underwater use, which at the time in 1950 was 3 years prior to the Submariner and Fifty Fathoms making their debut. However, it would be almost 10 years before they are able to obtain a patent and register the Squale brand name, and then another 3 before their first watches would hit the market in 1962. The rest as they say is history (quite literally) and today, the brand is still solely focused on dive watches and what you would call a quintessential tool watch. They’re designed for a purpose – to be easy to use and read underwater with maximum legibility and functionality. They’re less a fashion statement, but then again, most watches that are fashionable were originally intended as something else. The form is now greater than the function they’v...
Fratello
The Story Behind A Special Royal Australian Air Force IWC Timepiece
This is the story of how a group of mates in the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) banded together to turn their horological dream - an homage to an original RAAF watch - into a reality. If you have an interest in special military timepieces, this one is for you. It should come as no […] Visit The Story Behind A Special Royal Australian Air Force IWC Timepiece to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Rare Omega with the Full Kit, a Certina Chronograph in Great Condition, and a Pair of Fantastic Bulovas
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Benrus First up this week is some stylish bling, a vintage 1958 solid 14k gold Benrus. The solid gold case has unusual fancy lugs and a slim bezel, and is on the smaller side at 32mm wide. There is a super cool personalized engraving from Booth’s 25 Year Club. Yeah, I don’t know what that is either, but the engraving really is a good one. The silver dial is superb with the classic Benrus logo and tri-color bar beneath it. There are applied gold arrow markers for most of the hours, and Arabic numerals for the 12, 3, 6 and 9. No date, but a classy sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. This is a nice stylish dress watch that has the under-the-radar bling with the solid gold case. No movement pic, but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Seiko 66-7109 “Blue Tuxedo” Here’s a great vintage hand-wound Seiko on the original bracelet. The bold blue bullseye style dial really pops without being garish, and it’s in fantastic condition. There are applied steel markers and no date – this is a great looking dial. The steel case is 36mm and unpolished, with nice sharp edges, and it also has the original crown. The Seiko caliber 66 manual wind movement is crisp ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Super-Openworked Artime ART01 Tourbillon Makes A Bold Statement
It’s tempting to delve into the detailed backgrounds of the individuals behind this independent creation, the Artime ART01 Tourbillon. Each name, obscure to the general public, speaks volumes to watch professionals and enthusiasts with a deeper knowledge of who’s who. Initially, I felt it imperative to provide profiles for each of them when tasked with […]
SJX Watches
The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I
Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Racing-Infused Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Nino Farina II
Cuervo y Sobrinos, the Havana-rooted watch brand, continues to pay tribute to the world’s first official Formula One World Champion, Emilio Giuseppe “Nino” Farina, with the launch of the second limited edition timepiece. Following the success of the initial 2023 release, the Historiador Nino Farina 42mm chronograph, which sold out rapidly with its distinctive pastel […]
Fratello
Breaking Down The Brand Vacheron Constantin: A Member Of The Illustrious “Holy Trinity Of Watchmaking” With A History Dating Back To 1755
It always sparks a debate when people read about the “Holy Trinity of Watchmaking.” Maybe that is because some perceive it as an outdated concept - a secret fraternity that has lost touch with reality. Still, Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the members of this unofficial club, alongside Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Once, […] Visit Breaking Down The Brand Vacheron Constantin: A Member Of The Illustrious “Holy Trinity Of Watchmaking” With A History Dating Back To 1755 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Zenith Updates the Chronomaster Sport with Two New References, One of which Looks Familiar, the Other…Not So Much
It’s been a big week for Frédéric Arnault and LVMH Watches. Arnault took charge of LVMH Watches earlier this month, so this is his first LVMH Watch Week at the broader helm (he has spent the last few years as CEO of TAG Heuer), and I would say it has been a strong kickoff to his tenure. Wild Hublot Masterpieces, El Primero Triple Calendars from Zenith, and yellow gold Octo Finissimos are all worthy of celebration, but it wouldn’t be LVMH Watch Week without some new additions to the Chronomaster Sport lineup. The Chronomaster Sport was first introduced back in 2021, and initial reactions were very clear that it was built as a sort of “Daytona-killer.” In the now three years since, it has proven to be so much more. Built on more history than just about any chronograph on the market, the Chronomaster Sport has proven to be a fantastic modern interpretation of the longstanding El Primero. Zenith has trickled out new variants of the Chronomaster Sport since its introduction, and despite the signature multi-colored subdials that have been both a hallmark of El Primero watches across the decades and the Chronomaster Sport, these variants have been mostly sedate. Today that changes, and in a big way. Zenith has dropped two new iterations of the Chronomaster Sport, one steel, one decidedly not. Starting with the steel release, we have what essentially amounts to a steel Chronomaster Sport with a green ceramic bezel and matching dial. While the watch is striking, this isn...
Monochrome
First Look – The Speake Marin One & Two Openworked Sandblasted Red Gold And Titanium
If Speake Marin has recently made waves with its sport-chic Ripples line, its Piccadilly case remains a brand signature Inherently Speake Marin. Watches featuring the Piccadilly case embody British elegance, controlled eccentricity, and classic Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The One & Two collection underwent a tasteful revamping in 2017 in collaboration with watch designer Eric Giroud. […]