Deployant
New: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 & 9838
Breguet adds to the extensive Reine de Naples collection with two new watches showcasing two styles. The nee Ref. 9834 and 9838.
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Deployant
Breguet adds to the extensive Reine de Naples collection with two new watches showcasing two styles. The nee Ref. 9834 and 9838.
SJX Watches
While much of the buzz around Patek Philippe’s recent launches has been centred on the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G in white gold, the year has been mostly about other than the Nautilus and Aquanaut. Amongst the most notable new launches for 2022 is the World Time Flyback Chronograph ref. 5935A-001. Continuing with Patek Philippe’s development of steel watches beyond its traditional sports models, the ref. 5935A is a striking new take on a model that made its debut in 2016. Previously available only in precious metals (namely white gold or platinum), the ref. 5935A is the first of the model in stainless steel – and one of the brand’s few complicated watches in the metal. And the ref. 5935A is larger in diameter than its predecessor, but its most eye-catching feature is the dial in “rose-gilt opaline” (or “salmon” if you wish). Initial thoughts A World Time in steel is a big deal because the world time is arguably an iconic watch for Patek Philippe. Select vintage examples are amongst the handful of Patek Philippe references that can sell for high-seven or even eight figures. Granted the ref. 5935A adds a chronograph into the mix, but it is still modern take on a signature complication. The ref. 5935A retains the familiar Louis Cottier-type world time display that’s almost synonymous with Patek Philippe, but with contemporary materials and colours. And at 41 mm it is also larger than usual for a Patek Philippe complication, giving it something of a sporty feel...
Time+Tide
What is great about the independent watch market is that there is more room to do things differently. By offering more value for less money or by making unique watches. Or by making both things available at the same time. And it seems that some of the best watches come from single-owner brands that are backed by the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Funder Måne delivers a modular moonphase collection in a single watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Six watches, six different takes on one of watchmaking's hardest to define categories.
Time+Tide
When you think of watchmaking today, you likely immediately think of Swiss watchmaking. But, to give credit where it is rightfully due, British watchmakers are largely responsible for major escapement designs and many watchmaking innovations over the centuries. Test your knowledge on the subject below. Be warned, it is definitely of advanced difficulty for those … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #28 “British Innovations in Watchmaking” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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When modern watch lovers think of the wandering hours complication, most would immediately think of Urwerk that has largely focused on the complication since the brand’s founding in 1997. As a result, we associate the style of wandering hours with a future-forward nature – and I cannot fault this sort of thinking. There is something … ContinuedThe post The AP Starwheel is not new, but is the new take better than the OG? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Baume and Mercier Riviera is fast becoming one of my favourite integrated sports watches. In a sea of watches that have recently jumped on the bandwagon, the Riviera has a ton of history behind it. They first hit the scene in all their quartz glory back in 1973 and, in nearly 50 years, have … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Baume & Mercier take us to the moon with the Riviera Phases de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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EDITOR’S NOTE: Whether David is a bastard is still up for debate, but the fact he is cheap is irrefutable. Kidding aside, David loves solid watches at lower price points and therefore is always on the hunt for lesser discussed hidden gems in the under A$500 category. His latest pick: The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm Two apologies … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm affordably scratches the green itch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having just announced the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme, the Geneva watchmaking giant has in the headlines everywhere. The programme is certainly a significant development, though it will probably play out in a more nuanced manner than predicted in most media. To recap, Rolex Certified Pre-Owned is open to all and any of the brand’s retailers on a voluntary basis. It allows a retailer to sell pre-owned Rolex watches – that have to be at least three years old – but only after they have gone through an official Rolex service centre. Importantly, retailers will have to source their own pre-owned inventory, pay Rolex for servicing, and are free to set prices on their pre-owned offerings. Such certified pre-owned (CPO) watches will be accompanied by a two-year guarantee as well as a Rolex Certified Pre-Owned guarantee card (in addition to the original guarantee card and accessories if available). The first to embark on the CPO programme is the biggest Rolex retailer in Europe, Bucherer, which already has CPO watches on sale. Other retailers will be able to do the same from spring 2023 should they choose to do so. Crucially, Rolex CPO has nothing to do with the grey market, which is the market for brand-new watches sold via non-authorised channels. It is where brand-new Rolex watches sold at a premium to retail are transacted. On the other hand, Rolex CPO all about pre-owned watches that are at least three years old. And Rolex knows exactly when a watch is three ye...
Time+Tide
In an initiative to foster the future growth of innovation in the watchmaking industry, Louis Vuitton has announced the inaugural Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The competition (to be held every other year) seeks to nurture the future of innovation and creativity within the industry, as judged by a committee of 50 horological … ContinuedThe post Louis Vuitton announces their Watch Prize for Independent Creatives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
The pre-owned market for watches has become bigger and bigger each year – so much so that resale giants like eBay have doubled down and entered the mix, while a company like WatchBox can afford to sign Michael Jordan (yep, the basketball GOAT) as an ambassador. Recently, we have seen brands like Richard Mille do … ContinuedThe post Rolex launch certified pre-owned program, but we are left with more questions than answers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The watch community may be more familiar with their Adventure, Independent, and Wild One collections, but a top-seller for the Norqain brand is their Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm. Today, a new limited-edition installment has just entered the chat, with a handsome bronze panda vibe, that appears to be a worthy successor to one of their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Bronze – Black Dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Titoni have evolved many times as a brand, although they’ve always kept up with wristwatch fashion admirably in their century of operation. In fact, it’s hard to believe that their watches aren’t seen more often considering how long they’ve been around. The modern Titoni produce watches of a luxury standard at attainable prices, offering style, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph evokes café racer style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The first part in an explorative series of movements by complication masters AGENHOR, including Harry Winston, Arnold & Son and more.The post Agenhor, and the many movements of the Genevan complication masters (Part 1) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
IWC has a suite of instantly recognisable models synonymous with the brand, namely the Pilot’s Watches and of course, the Portugieser. But one collection does get as much recognition as its peers, despite being almost 40 years old. Named after the famous seaside city in Italy, the Portofino was introduced in 1984 (though the inaugural model didn’t yet have the Portofino name at the time) as an oversized pocket watch-style wristwatch, something of a clarion call to persist with mechanical watchmaking after the Quartz Crisis. Now the brand has revived one of the classics from the line with the Portofino Perpetual Calendar. At 40 mm in diameter, it’s the most compact of IWC’s perpetual calendars and is equipped with an in-house movement from the 82000 family. Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar is a sought-after complication for its utility but also its aesthetics, especially when it includes a moon phase, which adds a touch of romanticism to the design. IWC’s latest take on the complication is straightforward, practical, and priced reasonably enough. In fact, it’s essentially a visually-simplified version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, which uses the same movement but inside a larger case. While not revolutionary in technical terms, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is a solid performer with a concise design. It retains all the features that made the 1990s original appealing but adds a few contemporary touches in both design and the in-house base m...
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Time+Tide
If you’re anything like me, you’ll constantly be searching for a new, bigger watch box, along with new watches, of course. My drawers, desks and cabinets have filed up with watch boxes, canvas rolls and random Swatches I’ve picked up over the years. Luckily, most of us will have at least a small space on … ContinuedThe post The 10 best clocks, if you’ve run out of space in your watch box appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Digging into some exciting new watches and some that never existed (but could have?).
SJX Watches
For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...
Hodinkee
How Brendan Cunningham twice earned tenure and fell into watches at the same time.
Time+Tide
As soon as Baltic unveiled their Tricompax collaboration with Peter Auto, we all held our breath for the standard model to drop and give the masses a taste of the retro-fuelled chronograph action. Now, the Baltic Tricompax Panda and Reverse Panda have been brought into non-limited production giving us two deliciously vintage colour options with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baltic Tricompax Panda and Reverse Panda deliver retro-fuelled chronograph action appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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One of Ball’s slogans is “accuracy under adverse conditions”. That tells the story of what this brand is all about – watches that deliver tough functionality that you can absolutely rely on. It’s a legacy that was founded back in the 1890s, when Webb C. Ball was chosen to dictate a set of standards for railroad … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II and Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last year, you gave the one you loved a beautiful watch. Or maybe you received a watch as a gift. For months that watch has been worn and, with the holiday season fast approaching, you’re looking to use that for further gift-giving inspiration. How do you do that you might ask? Well, you dive head … ContinuedThe post Gift giving guide: The most useful watch accessories for any budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Recently, GaryG had the opportunity to handle, photograph, and wear a good friend’s Balancier Contemporain in white gold. His pal had long been a fan of the brand but had always been put off by the size of the watches. At 39.6 mm wide, though, the Contemporain is the most compact Greubel Forsey ever.
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There is no shortage of vintage-inspired chronographs on the market. Especially coming from established Swiss brands that have dug through their vast catalogues to recreate iconic models. There has also been a re-emergence of fine German watchmaking in the past few years. Hanhart is one of the best representatives of this movement. The brand made … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hanhart 417 ES Panda Flyback Chronographs offer even better value. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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She’s got your number via @youcanneverhaveenoughmemes Watches can be expensive. Often very expensive indeed. Sadly, for those of us that don’t manage hedge funds or aren’t oligarchs’ sons, this can have a very real knock-on effect on other areas of life. Sacrifices have to be made. Fiendishly complex feats of mental gymnastics must be performed … ContinuedThe post The memes of the week: Self-delusion and Groundhog Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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