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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial SJX Watches
Louis Erard s Régulateur Nov 7, 2024

Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial

The Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is a vintage-inspired take on Louis Erard’s signature regulator wristwatch. The “sector” dial has a grained black finish with engraved markings that are gold-plated, bringing to mind vintage “gilt” dials. Part of the brand’s Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, the new Le Régulateur shares the same case design and specifications with the recent “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator. Initial thoughts While Louis Erard is best known for its collaboration with independent watchmakers, such as Konstantin Chaykin and Kudoke, it offers a wider range of accessibly-priced regulator-style watches. And the Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is no different. It’s a fresh take on the vintage-inspired “sector” dial, combining the signature regulator display with rose-gilt engraved markings on a grained black dial. Priced at CHF2,900, the Gravé Noir stays within Louis Erard’s typical price range. It stands out from the competition in this price segment with the unconventional time display on a vintage-inspired dial. Like the brand’s other offerings, it is good value. It also shares the weaknesses of Louis Erard’s other regulator models, namely a thick case. Sector dial The Gravé Noir has the same dimensions as the rest of the Le Régulateur line with a simple, polished steel case measuring 39 mm by 12.82 mm. Inside is a self-winding Sellita SW266-1 that sports a rotor with the brand logo but is otherwise no frills. The movement has 38 hour...

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Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 Fratello
Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante Nov 7, 2024

Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887

Seven years ago, Breguet introduced the flagship model of its Marine collection, the Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887. Two versions debuted in 2017 - one in 18K rose gold with a silver dial and the other in platinum with a blue dial. In 2020, another rose gold version joined the Marine collection, this time, with a […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 to read the full article.

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Going On A Second Date With The Nomos Tangente 2date Fratello
Nomos Tangente 2date Let’s start Nov 7, 2024

Going On A Second Date With The Nomos Tangente 2date

Let’s start with a quote from the introduction article I wrote on the Nomos Tangente 2date. Here goes: “… if you wear this new Tangente on a first date, the chances you will land a second date are practically zero if the other person is into watches and a frequent contributor to the ‘date or […] Visit Going On A Second Date With The Nomos Tangente 2date to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Affordable Watches Vol. 2 Fratello
Citizen Nov 7, 2024

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Affordable Watches Vol. 2

Hello, and welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, we’re bringing back the fan-favorite topic of affordable watches. Nacho, Lex, and Daan picked one favorite under €1,000 from each of their collections. Our first time highlighting affordable favorites, we ended up with three divers - two from Seiko and one from Citizen. Today’s selection […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Affordable Watches Vol. 2 to read the full article.

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Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward who developed their in-house Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

The jump hour is a nearly criminally underrepresented type of watch. These semi-digital mechanical devices simplify time telling through more complex movements, a perfect example of watchmaking’s inherent and lovable absurdity. Their unique displays create different layout challenges, leading to unique and fantastic designs, from the sci-fi Space One to the extravagant A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. As such, a new jump hour is always cause for celebration and temptation. However, the challenge for brands that want to enter the jumping game is a lack of readily available movements and modules. So, what’s a brand to do? For Fears, this is where the power of collaboration comes into play. By teaming up with the industrious Christopher Ward, who developed their in-house jump hour module, the JJ001, back in 2010-11, Fears could access an already proven but exclusive solution. In 2023, they debuted their jump hour as the highly limited Alliance 1 for members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and in 2024, their follow-up mainline version, the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, which we reported on here. I’m all for watches that provide different and uncommon experiences, whether it be the smooth glide and accuracy of a Spring Drive, the hourly dinging of the Bel Canto, the central minute counter of a Lemania 5100, or the decentralized displays of a regulator. Jump hours stand out even among that crowd by fundamentally changing how time is read. Though most akin t...

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Hamilton Introduces the PSR 74, a Period Correct 70s Throwback Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces Nov 6, 2024

Hamilton Introduces the PSR 74, a Period Correct 70s Throwback

It was 1979, and I had accompanied my parents to a dinner party. I was six years old, and my parents’ friends had no children. My parents married later in life and came from a generation where children were meant to be seen and not heard. Unfortunately, I am one of those who likes to be seen and heard. However, I was instructed to be on my best behavior, so they set me in front of the television. Noticing that I was bored, our host handed me his wristwatch and said, “Check this out.” He pressed a button on the side of the case, and the display lit up in bright red, showing the time. I had never seen anything like it before. My father’s manual-wind Caravelle watch had a large white dial with Roman numerals and looked like an antique compared to this modern watch. I was captivated, and he let me wear it and play with it all evening. Undoubtedly, that watch made a lasting impression on me. The 1970s were an exhilarating period in design and technology, marked by rapid changes. The quartz crisis impacted the watch industry, prompting companies to innovate. This development created numerous new timepieces, including the noteworthy Hamilton Pulsar Cushion. Introduced in 1974, it boasted a vibrant red LED display that would only activate when you pressed the button on its side. Fifty years later, Hamilton is releasing an updated version called the PSR 74, and they have chosen to maintain its iconic 31mm cushion-shaped case. This design was considered futuristic in the 197...

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Hands-On With The Beaucroft Element - Everyday Looks With Tool-Watch Toughness Fratello
Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On With The Beaucroft Element - Everyday Looks With Tool-Watch Toughness

Many, if not most, watch enthusiasts want the best value for money when buying a new timepiece. And it’s normal to want a good deal whether you’re buying a car, a house, or flight tickets for your summer vacation. After all, we work hard to earn our money and want to spend it wisely. We […] Visit Hands-On With The Beaucroft Element - Everyday Looks With Tool-Watch Toughness to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer Fratello
Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer

During Geneva Watch Days 2024, we had the opportunity to visit Lederer. The brand focuses on highly technical escapements, which are made by Bernhard Lederer. The new Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer stood out among the various timepieces we saw due to its impressive movement and testing schedule. My colleague Dave Sergeant and I paled […] Visit Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer to read the full article.

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Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel Fratello
Farer Reintroduces Nov 5, 2024

Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel

In 2021, Farer introduced its Field Collection. It consisted of three watches, all with the same compact stainless steel case but rather diverse yet colorful dial designs. The common denominator was that they were all inspired by field watches. Now the British-based brand has reintroduced its Field Collection. The Pembroke II, Lomond II, and Exmoor […] Visit Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel to read the full article.

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The Exaequo Melting Watch is a Surrealist Take on Watch Design Worn & Wound
Cartier Crash OK maybe it’s Nov 5, 2024

The Exaequo Melting Watch is a Surrealist Take on Watch Design

If you’ve been paying attention to the world of the Hype Watch over the last few years, you’ve no doubt stumbled upon the hypiest Hype Watch of them all: the Cartier Crash. OK, maybe it’s not the hypiest Hype Watch, but it’s close. In terms of genuine rarity and the Crash’s ability to show up on the wrists of movie stars, recording artists, and top tier influencers with regularity, it’s certainly a big part of the conversation. There are a lot of reasons why the Crash has become so sought after in recent years, but one of them is certainly a movement among the larger watch market to pieces that are, at least on the surface, more unusual, and lead with design. The Crash, then, is really part of the rising tide that is lifting the ship of shaped cases more generally. And that brings us to the Exaequo Melting Watch, an unusual avant-garde design with a shaped case that is, at least in some ways, Crash adjacent, but a small fraction of the cost and quite a bit more approachable.  Longtime enthusiasts might remember the Exaequo Softwatch from the 1990s, which has carried on cult favorite status even to this day. The Melting Watch is effectively the modern rendition of the Softwatch, and has been brought back this year in a well timed bid to take advantage of a movement toward uncommon shapes and designs.  While the possibly apocryphal story of the Crash involves a Tank being accidentally melted in a fire after a car wreck, Exaequo has always proudly touted their w...

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What Are The Least Expensive IWC Watches? Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Nov 5, 2024

What Are The Least Expensive IWC Watches?

IWC Schaffhausen is the quintessential example of a watchmaker that set out to become famous for one thing but ended up being famous for something else. Founded in 1868 by American expat Florentine Ariosto Jones, the International Watch Company devoted itself chiefly to luxuriously decorated pocket watches in its early years but when the military needs of a European continent at war came calling in the 1940s, Jones’ firm shifted its production to focus on decidedly no-frills, robust, utilitarian wristwatches for use in the cockpits of planes. Fast forwarding to today, most watch enthusiasts still regard IWC first and foremost as a leader in the pilot’s watch genre. But that wasn’t always the case, and in fact, IWC’s 21st-Century collection is about as diverse as that of any watch brand out there. For a newbie to the brand, however, that diversity — and even the diversity within the vastly expanded Pilot’s collection itself — can prove daunting, especially when attempting to choose which IWC watches offer the price-to-value ratio that would motivate one to pull the trigger on a purchase. In this latest article in our recently inaugurated Price of Admission series, I will attempt to help you make sense of IWC’s modern collection from an entry-level pricing standpoint, homing in on the best models to consider as one’s “first” IWC watch.  PILOT’S WATCHES: IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic 36 ($4,350) It’s appropriate to start our exploration with the Pilot...

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Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT Fratello
Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT

Laventure introduced its Transatlantique II GMT this past June. Since then, the brown versions in steel and steel and gold already sold out. Those models were limited to 99 and 50 pieces, respectively. The black and green version in steel is only limited by the brand’s production capacity. It’s probably the first time that one […] Visit Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.

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Fratello On Air: Passing Down Our Watch Collections Fratello
Nov 5, 2024

Fratello On Air: Passing Down Our Watch Collections

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we take on another listener-suggested topic and discuss passing down our watch collections or what might happen to our watches as we age. We’re hopefully not near that time, but it’s a subject worth discussing. For our listeners, the watch talk begins at approximately 17 […] Visit Fratello On Air: Passing Down Our Watch Collections to read the full article.

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Review: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph WatchAdvice
Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph Nov 5, 2024

Review: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph

With all the talk around Bremont’s new lineup, not to mention the change in direction, we wanted to let the watch do the talking, so we’ve gone hands-on with the all-new Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph to see for ourselves! What We Love: The vintage-style numerals The dial is easy to read at a glance The new bracelet design is comfortable and looks great What We Don’t: The watch is on the thicker side, so wears on the larger side Lack of micro-adjust on the clasp and bracelet The lack of a screw-down crown on an explorers sports watch Overall Rating: 8 / 10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Bremont is a brand not without some controversy, well, at least this year when they and CEO Davide Cerrato revealed an all-new brand identity and logo, along with new releases at Watches & Wonders this year. Since then, we have spoken at length with Davide, (stay tuned for that interview in a few weeks), and while time will ultimately let the public see this all come together, the way he describes it, his grand plan makes sense. That being said, whilst the changes took many off-guard, us included, rather than getting involved in the online rhetoric, we thought we would do what we do best – get our hands on the new range and see how the watches are in real life, in the hands and on the wrist. After all, you can never really give an opinion on a piece until you’ve had experience with it and even more so when you can spend consid...

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Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”

When Tudor hints at a new watch, the rumor mill starts running on overdrive. Usually, it sparks discussions about great possible additions to the Tudor lineup. How about that for Tudor scooping up ideas for future releases? But this time, the teaser that Tudor released wasn’t too mysterious. With a clip that showed the Marine […] Visit Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.

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Louis Erard’s All New Régulateur Gravé Noir Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s All New Régulateur Nov 4, 2024

Louis Erard’s All New Régulateur Gravé Noir

Louis Erard, in a move that I think many who follow the brand will view as somewhat surprising, announced a new watch last week along with the news that their longstanding Excellence collection, which has been the home to many of the collaborative limited editions that have propelled the brand to a new level of notoriety over the past several years, is being replaced. Those watches now fall under a new banner, the Noirmont collection. This collection, in turn, is split up into three distinct subgroups, including the standalone “Noirmont,” “Noirmont X,” which would appear to be where you’ll find Louis Erard’s collaborations going forward, and “Noirmont Métiers d’Art.” This final line is where the brand’s latest release sits, the Régulateur Gravé Noir, which sees Louis Erard applying some traditional finishing techniques and vintage inspiration to a watch that has become a signature for them. To give you a sense of the other watches in the Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, this is where you’ll find the recent Petite Seconde guilloche pieces, as well as their newer regulator with an enamel dial. The new Régulateur Gravé Noir (we’ll just call it the Gravé from here on out) is, as Louis Erard puts it, a new spin on the classic sector dial. The regulator format, it would seem, would be a natural choice to experiment with the sector layout, and in fact you could argue that just about any execution of a regulator is going to have some sector dial ...

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A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1500A Nov 4, 2024

A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved. The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million. The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner. Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving. The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks. The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010 The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be...

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Hands-on – The Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival is (almost) the Real Vintage Deal Monochrome
Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival Nov 4, 2024

Hands-on – The Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival is (almost) the Real Vintage Deal

It might come as a surprise to learn that Favre Leuba is the world’s second-oldest watch company. Founded in 1737 by Abraham Favre in Le Locle, the brand reached a high point in the mid-1960s with its rugged purpose-designed tool watches. Now in the hands of industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, his “revival and renaissance” strategy […]

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Citizen’s Latest “The Citizen” Celebrates their 100th Anniversary with the Subtle Use of Precious Metals Worn & Wound
Citizen s Latest “The Citizen” Nov 4, 2024

Citizen’s Latest “The Citizen” Celebrates their 100th Anniversary with the Subtle Use of Precious Metals

Many of us know Citizen as a brand that creates affordable and (mostly) quartz powered watches. Often packed with a multitude of complications, in large case sizes, and complex layouts. But there’s another side to the brand as well, one that takes full advantage of the many resources at their disposal to create drool worthy haute horlogerie pieces. Many of their offerings from this high-end sector are limited in production, and they feature some of the most sought after watchmaking craftsmanship desired by enthusiasts and collectors alike.  Today we’re taking a look at one of these special offerings which has just been announced in a limited batch of 160 pieces worldwide to celebrate Citizen’s 100th anniversary. This is part of Citizen’s longstanding series of “The Citizen” watches, highlighting the brand’s significant craft accomplishments and their highest end watchmaking. Watches with “The Citizen” designation are flagships for the brand, and often feature intricate case and dial finishing, or uncommon, high-spec movements. Just one quick glance of the press images releases endorphins for most collectors. The dial has an air of whimsy and artistry with its “iceberg” inspired finish, and is clean and simple in layout, with thin applied baton markers. The rather austere design language on display here allows the communication of simplicity to dominate the aura of the watch instead of fixating on one sole function or spec, such as an eye catching tou...

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 “Third Series” Black Dial, Breguet Numerals SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 “Third Series” Nov 4, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 “Third Series” Black Dial, Breguet Numerals

Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction includes Treasures of Time, a small but impressive collection of watches consigned by a European gentleman of evidently sophisticated taste. While the most valuable of the 31 lots in the collection is a first-series ref. 2499 in pink gold, the most striking watch is arguably this Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series with a glossy black dial featuring Breguet numerals. Only six examples of the ref. 2499 are known to have a black dial, and this is one of them. The black dial with Breguet numerals gives the watch tremendous appeal and presence on the wrist. Beautiful as it is, however, this ref. 2499 is not absolute perfect from a historical perspective as the black dial was added long after the watch was made. The watch was originally sold by Patek Philippe in 1964, probably with the typical silver dial, and it gained this black dial sometime in the 1980s. According to its well documented history, the owner of the watch in the 1980s was an important enough collector that when he asked for a black dial with Breguet numerals, Patek Philippe said yes. The dial was thus produced by Stern Frères and installed in the watch. It’s worth noting that most of the six known ref. 2499s with a black dial have a similar history in that the black dials were subsequent additions. Though it’s clearly not a vintage dial, Stern Frères executed it well. The dial is finished with a glossy black lacquer and gold powder print, while the indices are applie...

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Talking About The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Program - An Interview With David Bijlsma Of Gassan Fratello
Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Program - Nov 4, 2024

Talking About The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Program - An Interview With David Bijlsma Of Gassan

About two years ago, Rolex announced its Certified Pre-Owned program. It’s a partnership between Rolex and several official retailers worldwide. In short, these retailers can now offer pre-owned Rolex watches with a brand-issued authenticity certificate and a two-year international warranty. Recently, I sat down with David Bijlsma, Chief Commercial Officer at Gassan, to talk about […] Visit Talking About The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Program - An Interview With David Bijlsma Of Gassan to read the full article.

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Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 Fratello
Casio n Gerald Charles Maestro Nov 4, 2024

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916

During Geneva Watch Days 2024, Gerald Charles announced the exclusive Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 created in collaboration with Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati. The watch celebrates the 30th anniversary of the legendary Ducati 916 motorcycle. It features Gerald Charles’s well-known Maestro case with a ruby-red vulcanized rubber strap for the occasion. Gerald Charles Maestro […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 to read the full article.

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Introducing – The new Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi Nov 4, 2024

Introducing – The new Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi

In 2019, Ulysse Nardin introduced the Freak X, an entry-level to the innovative and convention-breaking Freak series, maintaining the brand’s “no-dial, no-hands” design, showcasing its signature flying carousel construction within the newly developed UN 230 movement. Though simpler than the original Freak and featuring a crown, the Freak X retained the DNA of its iconic […]

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