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Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Jan 21, 2025

Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

Some watches are so perfectly on-brand that you have to look twice to see if they’re actually new. I had this experience with this Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. Between the regular Defy Skyline Chronograph and several Defy Extreme and Defy skeleton versions, this looks comfortably familiar. Still, this watch is indeed new. So let’s […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton to read the full article.

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre. The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel. Initial thoughts Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough). That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value. Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably...

Daniel Roth Unveils Extra Plat Souscription SJX Watches
Blancpain Jan 21, 2025

Daniel Roth Unveils Extra Plat Souscription

Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...

Introducing – Greubel Forsey Unveils Hand Made 2, the Second Step in the Brand’s Pursuit of Hand Watchmaking Monochrome
Greubel Forsey Unveils Hand Made 2 Jan 21, 2025

Introducing – Greubel Forsey Unveils Hand Made 2, the Second Step in the Brand’s Pursuit of Hand Watchmaking

While most watches made by Greubel Forsey are known to be some of the most impressive on the market regarding execution and finishing, today we’re looking at something even more special. Back in 2019, the independent watchmaker released Hand Made 1, a highly classical watch (at least compared to other, bolder creations) with a focus […]

Introducing – The Understated Matte Finish of the Rado True Square Skeleton Monochrome
Rado True Square Skeleton Rado Jan 21, 2025

Introducing – The Understated Matte Finish of the Rado True Square Skeleton

Rado began experimenting with innovative materials in the early 1960s, resulting in the Diastar and its futuristic helmet-like case made from scratch-resistant carbide tungsten. Since 1986, Rado has employed high-tech ceramic in its creations, obtaining a broader palette of colours and finishes over the years. The True Square, a collection launched in 2020, perpetuates Rado’s […]

Scarring Up Our Watches: Hitting A Kangaroo On A Motorbike With My Tudor Heritage Ranger Fratello
Tudor Heritage Ranger One Jan 21, 2025

Scarring Up Our Watches: Hitting A Kangaroo On A Motorbike With My Tudor Heritage Ranger

One of the best elements of wearing watches is forging memories with them. Sometimes, though, those memories can be a bit traumatic and leave true battle scars on the watch! Today, I’ll share how my Tudor Heritage Ranger survived a serious motorcycle accident and came away with some scars. When we think of watches showing […] Visit Scarring Up Our Watches: Hitting A Kangaroo On A Motorbike With My Tudor Heritage Ranger to read the full article.

Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille de France Collaboration Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille Jan 20, 2025

Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille de France Collaboration

I don’t know what it is exactly, but there’s something thrilling about air shows. In fact, every summer in my hometown, people will pull their deck chairs onto the road to catch a glimpse of the U.S. Air Force demonstrating an F-35A. And even I, as jaded as I am, do get a slight buzz when they zoom across the sky, doing loop-de-loops while I commute home. And that’s just in rural Pennsylvania – imagine if I was commuting to my maison in France while the Patrouille de France whizzed by with their signature red, white, and blue smoke trailing behind. Quel spectacle! While I have no plans to move to France anytime soon, I can say that Bell & Ross’ latest addition to their continued collaboration with the aerobatics demonstration unit of the French Air and Space Force, the BR-05 Chrono Patrouille de France, does add a little je ne sais quoi to one’s wrist, n’est-ce pas? (Okay, last time I speak French here, I promise). As with previous iterations of this collaboration, Bell & Ross seamlessly incorporates aeronautical motifs within the framework of the brand’s design ethos. Keeping with their “circle within a square” design, the BR-05 Chrono has presence on the wrist, clocking in at 42mm. But it’s the little elements that show the true partnership with the Patrouille de France. Details like the light blue sunburst dial, echoing the pilots’ flight suits, and the dark blue rehaut and subdials, referencing the aircraft’s fuselage, make the design stand ou...

First Look – The Forest Green Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a Dress Watch to Kill For Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Jan 20, 2025

First Look – The Forest Green Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a Dress Watch to Kill For

A Chopard L.U.C watch offering a perpetual calendar complication with a tourbillon regulator is not new to the series. In 2013, Chopard presented its L.U.C Perpetual T model, which was then followed by two extraordinary unique pieces in 2018, the “La Santa Muerte” decorated with the Mexican motifs and “Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac” in […]

Tudor’s Chrono Colours Continues with the Black Bay Flamingo Blue SJX Watches
Breitling B01 but Jan 20, 2025

Tudor’s Chrono Colours Continues with the Black Bay Flamingo Blue

Tudor surprised with the Black Bay Chrono Pink early last year, and it’s now done the same with the Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue”. Like last year’s pink chronograph, the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono, but with a coloured dial in a bright turquoise. And it will similarly be made in “limited” numbers, though is it not a limited edition. Initial thoughts Bright-c0loured dials used to be a novelty for Tudor, but now such “special editions” have become a regular part of the collection. It makes them a bit more predictable and thus less interesting, but they are still intrinsically appealing. Like its predecessors, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is fun and in typical Tudor fashion, excellent value for money. I liked the pink version enough that I bought one. The combination of a bright dial and “Jubilee” bracelet is a good one; it’s clearly a modern watch but many of the elements have a retro feel. But the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono so it is a little thick and chunky. Eventually Tudor will introduce a smaller in-house chronograph movement (the current MT5813 is based on the Breitling B01), but for now this has to do. Miami vibes According to Tudor, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is meant to evoke the “classic South Beach vibe”, a reference to the coastal Miami neighbourhood. The American inspiration is perhaps because the country is now the world’s strongest watch market. The brand goes on to exp...

First Look – The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Jan 20, 2025

First Look – The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One

The L.U.C Lunar One was Chopard’s first calendar and astronomy complication. Unveiled in 2005, the model combines a perpetual calendar and a precision orbital moon phase display in a rotating aperture. Twenty years later, Chopard revisits its L.U.C Lunar One with a more compact basin-style case, a trimmer, more legible dial decorated with hand-guilloché in […]

Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial Fratello
Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Jan 20, 2025

Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial

Thirteen years after the introduction of the 43mm L.U.C Lunar One, a smaller, more refined update debuts this year in two variations. The rose or white gold case now measures 40.5mm across, and the redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One comes with a blue or salmon dial. The name of the watch doesn’t quite cover the […] Visit Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin 222 - Vintage Vs. Modern Fratello
Vacheron Constantin 222 - Vintage Vs Jan 19, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin 222 - Vintage Vs. Modern

Vacheron Constantin has recently taken the stage by reintroducing the stainless steel 222. This year, the world’s oldest continuously operating watch brand is celebrating its 270th anniversary - one of the reasons it’s part of the Holy Trinity - and started strong by giving us a recreation of its classic from 1977. Nearly five decades […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin 222 - Vintage Vs. Modern to read the full article.

Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Jan 18, 2025

Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified

Who would have thought a quote from the current Albanian prime minister would be the header of a Fratello article? It was Edi Rama (1964), who is not just a politician but also an artist and writer, who once said, “Compromise in colors is gray.” Too often, people make the safe choice of going for a […] Visit Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified to read the full article.

Total Cost Of Ownership - What Does Your Watch Collection Cost In The Long Run? Fratello
Jan 18, 2025

Total Cost Of Ownership - What Does Your Watch Collection Cost In The Long Run?

Watch collecting is a costly hobby. We spend inordinate sums of money to acquire these objects of our shared affection. Maybe you have to save up for your next watch. Perhaps you allow yourself to splurge for significant life events. We all have our methods and justifications. However, the expenses do not stop after acquiring […] Visit Total Cost Of Ownership - What Does Your Watch Collection Cost In The Long Run? to read the full article.

Getting Your Bearings with the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass Worn & Wound
Jan 17, 2025

Getting Your Bearings with the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass

Like many of you, I assume, my passion for watches stems from an interest and nerdery for gear. Finding the perfect piece of kit, playing with new options, and spending hours online researching things that will never end up being purchased all entertain me to no end. Easily the hardest thing to get a digital grasp on though is quality as the excitement of opening a new package melts away with disappointment in the end product. So, when you find a brand that consistently offers quality, product after product, you should probably sign up for their notifications. While I will admit I was not an early follower of Watches Of Espionage, I properly course-corrected, jumping on the bandwagon once I took a closer look at the content and eventually the products.   For those that don’t know, Watches Of Espionage was started by a former Case Officer within the CIA focusing on horological content specifically related to espionage. Officially established in 2021, W.O.E. has quickly expanded into a full-fledged online publication, online store, high-level YouTube channel, and engaged community further bolstered by the addition of watch industry veteran and former commercial diver Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist on Instagram) to the W.O.E team. As more and more limited runs of pouches, straps, and knives amongst other things began to show up in my feed, the W.O.E. branding made way to staple collections and consistent products, and  the W.O.E. name became increasingly cemented in t...

Sartory-Billard Introduces a Pair of New References on the SB04 Platform Worn & Wound
Jan 17, 2025

Sartory-Billard Introduces a Pair of New References on the SB04 Platform

Micro-indie brand Sartory-Billard, founded by Armand Billard and his friend Ludovic Sartory in 2015, is well-known for its custom bespoke timepieces. In a shift from its usual practices, the brand is set to release two new fully fleshed-out models featuring its standard SB04-E case: the Ruby Platinum, which will be a limited series, and the Tantalum Hand-Engraved, which will enter regular production. Both models aim to showcase the brand’s craftsmanship and expertise, a goal they seem to have achieved based on these brand supplied images. The Ruby Platinum watch features a dial centerpiece made from genuine ruby sourced from a responsibly harvested boulder in Tanzania, Africa. The ruby is crafted into dial inserts in Germany, just an hour away from the Sartory-Billard workshop. Because of the unique nature of the material, no two dials are identical; each displays distinct textures. Completing the dial is a fumé sunray-textured platinum-plated outer ring. Tantalum is one of the most challenging metals to work with due to its remarkable density and hardness. Engraving a delicate design on its surface requires great skill, which is exemplified in the intricate feather-like engraving found in the center of the Tantalum Hand-Engraved dial. Like the previous model, this one also features a surrounding ring; however, this one is made of solid tantalum and finished with a fumé sunray effect. Both watches have a 39.5mm diameter case, measuring 46mm from lug to lug and only 10....

Hot Take: Tudor Presents A “Flamingo Blue” Version Of Its Black Bay Chrono Fratello
Tudor Presents Jan 17, 2025

Hot Take: Tudor Presents A “Flamingo Blue” Version Of Its Black Bay Chrono

In March last year, Tudor revealed a daring version of its Black Bay Chrono with a pink dial. Leading up to the release, some people already spotted the watch on David Beckham’s and Jay Chou’s wrists. The same happened this week with, again, British football superstar David Beckham and Taiwanese singer-songwriter Jay Chou. Both of […] Visit Hot Take: Tudor Presents A “Flamingo Blue” Version Of Its Black Bay Chrono to read the full article.

The 25 Most Important Anniversaries For Watch Brands In 2025 Fratello
Jan 17, 2025

The 25 Most Important Anniversaries For Watch Brands In 2025

I already thought “2024” had a nice ring to it, but “2025” sounds and looks even better. The fact that it’s such a round number also suggests that there will be several anniversaries this year. Then again, I suppose most people don’t have the foresight to choose a specific year to start a watch company. […] Visit The 25 Most Important Anniversaries For Watch Brands In 2025 to read the full article.