Hodinkee
Introducing: The Nodus Sector II Field Titanium Goes 'Tropical'
Not going to lie, that invisible strap goes kind of hard.
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Hodinkee
Fratello
Modding To The Max: The Artisans De Genève Absolute Ruby Surpasses Anything The Watch Workshop Did Before
You may very well be looking at the pinnacle of watch modding. The Artisans de Genève Absolute Ruby is a personalized creation with a price tag of US$550,000 hanging from it. As the name suggests, rubies take center stage in this world-famous chronograph, which initially looked more humble when the client handed it over to […] Visit Modding To The Max: The Artisans De Genève Absolute Ruby Surpasses Anything The Watch Workshop Did Before to read the full article.
Fratello
Five Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is truly one of the few iconic watch designs from the 20th century. Indeed, it may be one of the most recognizable designs in all of horology. Some of us, however, are fans from afar. We appreciate the Omega Speedmaster, but our eyes go elsewhere. For those enthusiasts after something with […] Visit Five Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Industry News – Audemars Piguet to Join Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, Montblanc No Longer Participating
Initiated back in 2020, even though it was cancelled due to the COVID pandemic alongside Baselworld, Watches and Wonders Geneva was first created as a replacement for the SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) by the FHH, but soon became the highlight of the year for the watch industry, after Baselworld was cancelled entirely. […]
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Joins Watches & Wonders 2026
Having last exhibited in Geneva six years ago, Audemars Piguet (AP) will return next year as an exhibitor at Watches & Wonders 2026 (WWG). The brand had departed the predecessor of WWG, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), in 2019 along with Richard Mille, opting instead to launch the latest products at its own events. AP’s return to the exhibition reflects the importance of WWG as the most important trade fair on the horological calendar. It also underlines the importance of exhibiting alongside respected peers. The central hall at WWG 2025 Alongside AP, another ten brands will be showing at the event, ranging from clockmaker L’Epée 1839 to Chinese watchmaker Behrens, as well as Credor (the sister brand of current exhibitor Grand Seiko), and Favre Leuba, a recently rebooted historical name. This brings the total exhibitor tally to 66, a number that includes giants like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, and Cartier. WWG will take place April 14-20, 2026, at Palexpo.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42
Turn on the coffee machine because it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. In this week’s battle, two retro-infused dive watches take center stage. The first is the recently released Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218. It’s a modern remake of a 1993 classic made exclusively for the Italian Navy. It will face off against the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
What is a Rehaut on a Watch Dial?
Most parts of a watch that you’ll encounter in your pursuit of horological knowledge are names that are fairly familiar and mostly self-explanatory: case, dial, hands, movement. (We run down the gamut of the most important watch parts in this article). But now and then, you may read about, or hear someone referring to, a watch’s rehaut - a somewhat intimidating-sounding French term that might give you pause at first. What is a rehaut, and what is it used for? Read on. Put simply, a rehaut (properly pronounced “Re-OHH” without the hard “T” sound at the end) is the French word for “flange,” which is the English term most often used in its place when discussing watches. It describes the rim between the periphery of the dial and the crystal. Unlike dials and cases and hands, not every watch has one. But for many of those that do, the rehaut is not only a frame that fills in the space between the dial edge and the crystal but also a utilitarian element that can add interest and even useful information to the dial itself. Some watchmakers use the rehaut for staging the hour or minute markers, In the case of chronographs, like the TAG Heuer Carrera featured above, the rehaut can provide a spot for added functional markings like a tachymeter scale (which can use the built-in stopwatch to measure speeds relative to distance) or a pulsimeter (which works with the chronograph to measure heartbeat rates). Other watches might use the rehaut for calendar indications ...
Worn & Wound
The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking
Stone dials, as we’re all aware, have been having a moment over these last couple of years. Time, I suppose, will tell if the prevalence of stone dials across more affordable price ranges is a trend, or just a new part of the watch landscape that we’ll all just accept and live with, like green dials, or carbon cases. With the renewed popularity of this inherently 1970s/80s inspired design cue, it was really only a matter of time before we saw the return of a watch that takes the use of stone to a different level entirely. The Tissot Rock Watch, an artifact of the 1980s if ever there was one, is back, albeit in a limited edition that might be tough to acquire depending on your geography (more on that in a bit). First, a little background on the Rock Watch. Launched in 1985, Tissot claims that the Rock Watch was the first ever watch with a case and dial made entirely from granite procured from the Swiss Alps. I’ll admit here that I haven’t done a ton of scholarly research on the topic, but I’m willing to take Tissot at face value here simply because granite is a particularly difficult material to work with, requiring highly specific machines and tooling. It’s a watch that doesn’t make a ton of practical sense from a production standpoint, but naturally was quite popular in the mid 80s and eventually spawned an entire collection for Tissot that featured a huge variety of exotic stones. Original Rock Watches from the 1980s The new version of the Rock Watch rema...
SJX Watches
Trilobe Takes Up the Mantle of French Watchmaking with the Trente-Deux
Best known for its signature time display comprised of three off-center discs, Trilobe has introduced its first sport watch, the Trente-Deux. It’s yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet, but the Trente-Deux is more notable for being the debut platform for the new X-Nihilo caliber, which for movement geeks will overshadow the launch of the new collection itself. The X-Nihilo is a relatively simple automatic caliber, and many of its components are produced in Trilobe’s own newly established CNC workshop near the French capital. It remains to be seen whether this domestic manufacturing initiative will prove viable long-term; the recent past is full of false starts aimed at rebuilding the French watchmaking industry. Initial thoughts I admit a certain fascination for watches without hands, that indicate the time with jumping windows, wandering displays, and revolving discs. The Trente-Deux, like the brand’s other watches, is an example of the latter. The hour is read at the top of the dial, using the logo as a pointer. The minutes slip by through a window in the dial, and the seconds disc rotates around a central hub embellished with stamped Clous de Paris. The asymmetrical layout is visually compelling and results in a pleasing amount of negative space that somehow doesn’t feel empty. This might be due to the sunray pattern, which emanates outward from the center of the seconds disc. In terms of colour, grey and navy blue are safe, pragmatic choices tha...
Teddy Baldassarre
ETA 2824: The History and Legacy of a Legendary Workhorse Caliber
The ETA 2824 caliber has been a presence in the world of mechanical wristwatches for more than 50 years, helping the Swiss watchmaking industry forge a path through the Quartz Crisis and serving as the engine for hundreds of three-handed timepieces from an array of brands, large and small. While it is a rarity here in the 21st Century, its legacy can still be seen across the horological world - from the proliferation of similar movements by makers like Sellita to the increasing ubiquity of the ETA 2824’s souped-up successor, the Powermatic 80. Read on to learn everything you need to know about the ETA 2824. A (Very Brief) History of ETA Nearly everyone that follows the wristwatch industry has heard of ETA, and most of those have probably worn a watch with an ETA movement, but few are likely aware of the Swiss movement maker’s long and convoluted history. We generally trace its origins back to the formation of the historical watchmaking firm Eterna, in 1856 in the Swiss town of Grenchen. But in reality its roots reach even deeper. Eterna is perhaps most famous today as the maker of the Kon-Tiki dive watch, and it is currently owned by the Hong Kong-based Citychamp Watch and Jewellery Group. Originally however, the firm was a manufacturer of ébauches - unassembled movements for sale to outside watchmakers - and was named “Dr. Girard & Schild” for its founders, Dr. Joseph Girard and Urs Schild. Renamed Schild Frères by the next generation of owners, the compan...
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Doxa Sub 750T Vs. Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Last week’s installment was all about sleek integrated-bracelet sports watches. This week, we’ll focus on two substantial divers that came out recently. For Geneva Watch Days, Doxa relaunched its Sub 750T with the same 45mm diameter but a slimmer 11.95mm profile. We thought putting that colorful […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Doxa Sub 750T Vs. Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – Porsche Unleashes its New 911 Turbo S
Seven hundred and eleven horsepower… SEVEN hundred and eleven… Let that sink in for a moment. I’ll wait. With it, the 911 has come a very long way from the modest 130bhp of the very first ones. The mad scientists employed by Porsche have managed to squeeze a never-before-seen amount of power from the 911’s […]
Worn & Wound
echo/neutra Introduces the Averau42 Collection, New Watches with a Hybrid Ceramic-Titanium Case
One of the real highlights of being involved in our Windup events year to year is getting to know brand owners and founders, and periodically getting a little peek at what’s to come. More and more often, brands come to our events not just with watches in their current catalog, but with early samples of watches they’re planning for the future to show prospective customers, members of the media, and the Worn & Wound team. I won’t lie: it’s a nice perk of being on the inside. A few months ago during the Chicago show, the team at echo/neutra pulled some really exciting stuff out of a bag that was not quite ready for prying eyes. The new Averau42 collection, which at launch consists of a pair of watches combining titanium and ceramic construction, is an exciting next step for a brand that we’ve been interested in for some time. The heart of these watches is what echo/neutra calls the TiFrame construction. This is an idea we’ve seen a handful of times from other brands, usually bigger brands, in the recent past. These watches are made with an internal titanium case, or frame, that protects the movement and offers tensile strength that ceramic and other alternative materials lack. The outer layer is black ceramic, which provides a virtually scratch proof surface and a moody aesthetic vibe for these watches that fits in nicely with the design codes the brand has established over the past several years. This type of construction, in addition to making the most of the ...
Worn & Wound
A History and Guide to Laco
Located in the southwest of Germany in Baden-Württemburg, Pforzheim is built at the confluence of three rivers. In the eighteenth century, the city became a hub of jewelry making, with watchmaking experiencing a pronounced revival in the early twentieth century, resulting in Pforzheim’s nickname of the “Goldstadt,” or “Golden City.” Founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel in 1925, Lacher & Co., today known as Laco Uhrenmanufaktur GmbH, played a significant role in this expansion of German watchmaking. Their aim was simple - produce watches of quality and reliability. The pair split a few years later, with Hummel remaining with the watch production side. While many German watchmakers relied on Swiss movements, Hummel chose a different direction. He founded Deutsche Uhren Roh Werke (Durowe) in 1933, dedicated to the manufacture of movements to become independent from Swiss calibers. Located in the southwest of Germany in Baden-Württemburg, Pforzheim is built at the confluence of three rivers. In the eighteenth century, the city became a hub of jewelry making, with watchmaking experiencing a pronounced revival in the early twentieth century, resulting in Pforzheim’s nickname of the “Goldstadt,” or “Golden City.” Founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel in 1925, Lacher & Co., today known as Laco Uhrenmanufaktur GmbH, played a significant role in this expansion of German watchmaking. Their aim was simple - produce watches of quality and reliabilit...
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 for the Brand’s 250th Anniversary
Celebrating 250 years as a watch brand is a remarkable achievement in itself. However, if it’s a brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the undisputed horological star of the 18th century, there are plenty of reasons to celebrate. Paying homage to this significant milestone, Breguet has released four anniversary editions in Breguet gold cases. The fifth […]
Worn & Wound
MB&F; Debuts the LM101 EVO
There’s a style of watch that I’ve grown particularly fond of over the last few years, and I sometimes find it hard to articulate why. The high end, exotic independent on a rubber strap calls to me like the Sirens. There’s something about the mix of high and low that appeals to me, I think, as it does with everything else I like, from Monty Python to the films of Bong Joon-ho. I also just find a good rubber strap to be one of the most comfortable ways to wear a watch, particularly (but not exclusively) in the warm weather months. And so I’ve nursed a years-long appreciation for Hublot (who basically invented this idea) and have a watch box disproportionately tilted to watches that give me the same feeling (a pair of Arcanauts, and a Bel Canto that lives on rubber year round spring to mind). It should not be surprising, then, that MB&F;’s EVO line has become a personal favorite. The EVO series of watches take Legacy Machine pieces (conceived as MB&F;’s collection inspired by classical watchmaking) and give them a sporty treatment, replacing leather straps with rubber, and adding water resistance and screw down crowns. It makes a ton of sense to create “everyday wear” versions of these watches (if you’re spending into the six figures on these pieces, I imagine you’d want to wear them more frequently, right?) and making them more casual and sporty in appearance is such a natural idea it’s almost hard to believe these haven’t existed from the beginning. N...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve Mechanical 40mm
The Hamilton Khaki Field Collection is one of the cornerstones of the brand, building on the rugged simplicity and reliability of the original soldiers’ watches produced during the 20th century. Known for their straightforward functionality, earthy colours, and robust construction, Khaki Field models have long been appreciated. From hand-wound mechanical editions inspired by WWII field watches […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Starbucks Submariner 126610LV Review
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV (or, the Rolex Starbucks, as it has come to be known) was released alongside an entirely updated Submariner collection during the peak pandemic days of late summer 2020. I’ll get into that broader collection update later, but the Starbucks was one of the more attention-grabbing Submariners, given how it went back to the original colorway of the first “Green Sub.” A little context for those not wholly ensconced in the minutae of niche watch references: the first of these was the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610LV, which dates all the way back to 2003 when it was released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner. You may better know the 16610LV from its “Kermit” nickname due to its then-novel use of a vibrant green aluminum bezel. This watch was produced until 2010 and is beloved by collectors. One of my favorite instances of celebrity watch spotting was when I noticed Martin Scorsese wearing a Kermit during the filming of Killers of the Flower Moon back in 2023. Following the discontinuation of the Kermit, Rolex released the Submariner Ref. 116610LV in 2010. This model, of course, would go on to be dubbed the “Hulk,” courtesy of its green ceramic bezel and matching green dial. The Rolex Hulk debuted to hot demand alongside the Submariner Ref. 116610LN due to these being the first updated Submariners, with Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom ceramic bezel and Maxi case, to be made available in steel (the white-gold Submarin...
Fratello
Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer
Upcycling, the process of transforming materials that would otherwise be discarded into new products of higher value through thoughtful design and creativity, is a current theme, and that’s a good thing. You’ll get my point by looking at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529. The elegant 40.2mm watch features a strap made of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set Limited Edition
While the name Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is associated with some of the most successful and enduring watch designs of the 20th century, the designer also expressed his creativity through his own brand, Gerald Charles. Following the designer’s death, the Gerald Charles brand was revived by Federico Zivani. Inspired by an idiosyncratic case designed by Gérald […]
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Elevates the 1815 Tourbillon with a Black Enamel Dial
First introduced in 2014 as A. Lange & Söhne’s “entry-level” tourbillon (if there is such a thing for the German brand), the 1815 Tourbillon now returns as a limited edition in a striking, but familiar, guise. The new 1815 Tourbillon features a glossy black enamel dial – similar to that found on this year’s Minute Repeater Perpetual – and the same L102.1 movement found in the original version. Like the much pricier Minute Repeater Perpetual, the new tourbillon is not a Handwerkskunst edition, but still boasts a hand-enamelled dial made in-house. Initial thoughts As the base model tourbillon in Lange’s catalogue, the 1815 Tourbillon is less elaborate than the brand’s other tourbillon offerings. But it is nonetheless impressive as the tourbillon incorporates both a hacking and zero-reset mechanism. At most other brands, such a movement would be a top-of-the line offering. That said, the earlier versions were a bit plain. Even the limited edition with a white enamel dial was a little mundane. The Handwerkskunst version was outstanding, but it was just 30 pieces. The new 1815 Tourbillon isn’t extravagantly different; it is essentially a cosmetic update. But it makes all the difference. The glossy black dial is tremendously more appealing than the white enamel dial from before, especially since it is achieved with the champleve technique, eliminating the need for printed numerals. That said, it feels a little soon after the Minute Repeater Perpetual that has ...
Fratello
Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase
I had to look twice at this new MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold edition, but it’s a new iteration of the watch introduced last month. In August, for the Sturgeon Moon, the MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold had a net-like design on the gold moon disc. This month, it’ll be a Corn Moon […] Visit Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Gérald Genta Minute Repeater
Now in the hands of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, alongside Daniel Roth, watchmaking brand Gérald Genta came back on the scene last year with one of the boldest and least expected creations, the Gentissima Oursin collection. A watch paying tribute to the man’s bold designs, it will be joined this year by a […]
Fratello
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
For Geneva Watch Days 2025, TAG Heuer has brought a surprising number of new models. One of the favorites is the subject of this article. The Carrera Astronomer is a new addition to the lineup and is available in three references. As we’ll soon see, one is destined for serial production, while two are limited […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New MB&F; LM101 EVO, Reborn to be Worn
It might seem like aeons ago, but MB&F;’s Legacy Machine dynasty is still a teenager in watchmaking terms. Launched in 2011, the LM family turned our perceptions of MB&F;’s galactic design language inside out and upside down. Flying back to 19th-century watchmaking for inspiration, Max Büsser’s vision of a monumental balance wheel suspended on the […]
Fratello
Do The Robot With The New Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.
Any Czapek will surely suffice to secure some attention and strike up a conversation at a party. A rattrapante Czapek should draw even more of a crowd. But if, for whatever reason, you want to make an even stronger statement, you’ll want a watch with a party trick up its sleeve. Look no further than […] Visit Do The Robot With The New Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.
Czapek releasesAntarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.. with references to 20th Century science fiction pop culture and both technical and artistic touches.
Teddy Baldassarre
13 Best French Watch Brands (2026)
Switzerland is the modern world’s center of watchmaking, with Germany a distant but respectable second in Europe and Japan having long staked out its own spot as the premier watch producer in Asia. Great Britain and the U.S.A., while no longer world leaders, both have a proud history of watchmaking and maintain a small but steadily growing cottage industry in the modern era. But France has its own respectable horological heritage, centered around the commune of Besançon (below), which borders Switzerland’s own heartland of watchmaking, the Vallée de Joux. France was, in fact, a home for many historically significant watchmakers and clockmakers, including Julien Cordray, Jean-Antoine Lépine, Ferdinand Berthoud, and Abraham-Louis Breguet (actually born in the Prussian principality that would become Neuchâtel, Switzerland, but renowned as a Paris-based watchmaker to French royalty). The latter three all plied their trade in workshops on Place Dauphine at the western tip of Paris' Île de la Cité in the Seine. Watchmaking was a thriving industry in France for a century, up until KIng Louis XIV’s (below) revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which ushered in the religious persecution of Huguenot watchmakers, who fled to Switzerland to essentially establish that nation as a horological power. The French Revolution in the 18th Century, which halted the sales of luxury goods like watches in France, further eroded the country’s watch industry, and it has never ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Roger Smith Series 6 Wristwatch, Plus A Detailed Review of Smith's History With Calendars
In some ways, a simplified version of Smith's Series 4 instantaneous calendar with moonphase, the new watch is no less an impressive example of some of the finest British watchmaking this century.
Fratello
Sinn Introduces A New EZM 3 S, 556, And 104 Classic 12
It’s hard to believe that 2025 is heading into the home stretch, but here we are in September. For watch fans, that means it’s time for a flurry of new releases. One brand getting in on the action immediately is Sinn. Today, we’ll quickly highlight the new EZM 3 S, a set of colorful 556 […] Visit Sinn Introduces A New EZM 3 S, 556, And 104 Classic 12 to read the full article.