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Results for Proprietary Gold Alloys

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Singer Reimagined Minds its Manners with the Caballero SJX Watches
Sep 2, 2025

Singer Reimagined Minds its Manners with the Caballero

Best known for its Agenhor-powered chronographs, Singer Reimagined has just released its first time-only watch, the Caballero. Inside is the Calibre-4 Solotempo representing another first, being the brand’s first proprietary movement. With four barrels powering the Caballero for six days, the Calibre-4’s distinctive architecture can be discerned from the front thanks to jewel portholes in the dial. Spanish for “gentleman”, the Caballero is available in three colourways; the piano black and empire green colours are familiar from the Heritage Collection chronographs, but the petrol blue colour is new for the brand. Though not strictly a limited edition, the watches will be rare enough, assembled in small quantities at the brand’s atelier in central Geneva. Initial thoughts There tends to be a lot of crossover between the worlds of horology and high-end cars. Fans of the latter are no-doubt familiar with Singer Vehicle Design, which has made a name for itself restoring and modifying vintage Porsche 911s – specifically the 964 of the early 1990s – elevating the model to a standard that would have been impractical in its own time. The watchmaking arm, which operates as an independent sister company, has been quietly making interesting watches since 2017, largely focused on vintage motorsport themes. For the Caballero, this inspiration is conveyed most prominently by the golden needle hub that covers up the base of the hand stack, similar to those used by vintage a...

Earthen Co.’s New Summit Collection Convinced Me About Ceramic Watches Fratello
Rolex Explorer - one without Aug 31, 2025

Earthen Co.’s New Summit Collection Convinced Me About Ceramic Watches

Back in the ’90s, I got really into watches. I remember sitting across from a guy on the train who was wearing a Rolex Explorer - one without the white gold surrounds on its hour markers, so probably a reference 1016. I asked him about it, and he said he had owned it for a […] Visit Earthen Co.’s New Summit Collection Convinced Me About Ceramic Watches to read the full article.

Fears Introduces A Trio Of New Watches: The Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose, Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Barleycorn, And Redcliff 39.5 Date ES Fratello
Fears Aug 29, 2025

Fears Introduces A Trio Of New Watches: The Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose, Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Barleycorn, And Redcliff 39.5 Date ES

For many, summer vacation is usually a time to travel, relax, and recharge for the second half of the year. Well, not for the people at Fears, it seems. The British brand introduces not one, not two, but three new watches today. The new Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose has a textured black and rose gold […] Visit Fears Introduces A Trio Of New Watches: The Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose, Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Barleycorn, And Redcliff 39.5 Date ES to read the full article.

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green SJX Watches
Bulgari may have edged it Aug 28, 2025

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program. The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples. Initial Thoughts Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person. The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle. Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant. To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Person...

Striking New Hues for the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Aug 26, 2025

Striking New Hues for the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual

The recently launched 222 in steel may be the watch of the hour, but Vacheron Constantin continues to build out the Overseas line with a facelift for the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V that gets new dials in burgundy and pink gold, both with pale blue accents. While the new pair are built on old bones, they remain competitive and appealing thanks to the extremely slim profile, great dials and well-appointed bracelets. Initial thoughts While the fad for integrated bracelet sport watches has cooled off, the genre remains remain popular and new contenders emerge every day, compelling established players to reinvent themselves. The Overseas Perpetual Calendar is definitely an established player in this segment and competitive with most of the market, at least for now. The thin movement inside has a proven track record by virtue of its age (the basic architecture debuted in 1967). Moreover, the Overseas perpetual also deserves praise for being very good looking, especially with the new burgundy dial. The blue accents work surprisingly well against the burgundy, though less so against pink gold. That said, the age of the movement is significant. It was easy to ignore the movement when the same was true of its peers. That is changing; Audemars Piguet overhauled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with an all-new movement earlier this year, which features an entirely crown-set calendar. While I think the difficulty of setting perpetual calendars with pushers is exa...

Hands-On With The Dutch Holthinrichs Signature Ornament Lab Series 1.24 Watch Fratello
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament Lab Series Aug 26, 2025

Hands-On With The Dutch Holthinrichs Signature Ornament Lab Series 1.24 Watch

There’s so much to say about the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament Lab Series 1.24, but when I see the patinated copper dial adorned with 24K gold leaf, I want to sing the famous Nat King Cole jazz standard “Autumn Leaves.” The melancholy song starts with the words “The falling leaves drift by the window” and ends […] Visit Hands-On With The Dutch Holthinrichs Signature Ornament Lab Series 1.24 Watch to read the full article.

Roger Dubuis Impresses with the RD780 Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey though Aug 20, 2025

Roger Dubuis Impresses with the RD780 Flyback Chronograph

Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...

New: Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 & PAM01698 Carbotech™ Deployant
Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 Aug 16, 2025

New: Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 & PAM01698 Carbotech™

Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 and PAM01698 are tactical evolutions of the brand’s dive watch lineage, paying tribute to the Italian Navy’s aviation division (Aviazione Navale). Both models feature green-grained dials, radar-style subdials, and engraved casebacks, but diverge in material execution-one in brushed steel, the other in Panerai’s proprietary Carbotech™.

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II SJX Watches
Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring Lastly Aug 8, 2025

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II

Part I of our story on the evolution of hairspring materials covered temperature compensation along with the development of the first specialised balance spring alloy, Elinvar. The story brought us to the 1920s, when scientist and horologist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) finished his work on nickel-iron alloys and watchmakers begun embracing Elinvar springs paired with mono-metallic balances. In this second part we turn to newer hairspring alloys, like the now-ubiquitous Nivarox. Then we look at today’s landscape and the future, touching on research done by the Swatch Group with alternative, niobium-based alloys and also the specialised but obscure Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring. Lastly we discuss silicon springs, which are growing more prevalent across a range of timepieces. Elinvar’s weaknesses Elinvar was by far the greatest breakthrough in self-compensating alloy hairsprings at the time. Guillaume considered Elinvar good enough and not needing further improvement - unsurprisingly since he was its inventor - but other watchmakers and engineers continued to experiment with iron-nickel compounds because Elinvar’s inherent properties made it a good, but imperfect, material. Even though the alloy behaved predictably with temperature changes, its physical properties were not ideal to begin with. Elinvar was a soft metal, which posed its own suite of problems for spring applications. The importance of softness in terms of hairspring performance is not related ...

Jaquet Droz’s Chinese Dragon is Three-Dimensional and Skeletonised SJX Watches
Breguet s dragon was Aug 6, 2025

Jaquet Droz’s Chinese Dragon is Three-Dimensional and Skeletonised

Jaquet Droz is enjoying a good run with unique, dragon-themed watches. While last month’s debut was firmly in the mould of Anglo-Saxon fantasy lore, the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold “Dragon Mask” is inspired by the Chinese dragon. A unique piece created at the behest of a client, like most of brand’s current repertoire, the Dragon Mask has an open-worked dial engraved and painted by hand – and set with emeralds – installed on a skeletonised, self-winding tourbillon movement. Initial thoughts Personalised commissions are, by definition, personal and not for everyone. This watch is over the top in its decoration, maybe even overdone to the point of kitsch, but I like it. Dragon-themed watches don’t always get the motif right – Breguet’s dragon was a little too fat – but this one is done well in its own way. The case is a little large for what it is, but the size is useful as it results in a larger canvas for the dial decoration. And because this is a Jaquet Droz, the execution, both in terms of dial and movement, will be good quality, as is usually the case with the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group. I imagine the client who commissioned this will be pleased – except maybe for the CHF450,000 price tag, which is steep but typical for a watch like this. A dragon in all its colours Despite its strikingly different look, the Dragon Mask is actually a variation of the clean and modern Tourbillon Skelet. Both share the same movement and case, but the Drago...

Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – The Best Colourway Yet? WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – Aug 6, 2025

Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – The Best Colourway Yet?

The Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Rose Gold is a timepiece that blends vintage-inspired design with modern execution and just the right amount of flair. From the case finishing to the tri-compax sector dial, this watch doesn’t just look good, it feels special on the wrist! What We Love The rose gold PVD finish truly enhances the watch’s luxurious appeal with the various finishes on the case. Sector dial layout with tri-compax subdials that balance complexity with elegance. Vintage-inspired design reimagined with modern-day elegance. What We Don’t The leather strap feels limiting for daily wear due to long-term durability concerns. No clasp option offered. Constant use of the pin buckle can wear out the strap quicker. The case may look thick from the side, which might put off some wearers despite wearing slimmer in person Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It was only two short years ago that Raymond Weil unveiled their Millésimecollection. Raymond Weil’s creative elegance, innovative technology, and Swiss-made excellence were all rolled into one collection. The brand paid homage to the rich heritage and traditions of horology, which can easily be seen through the vintage-inspired case and dial design. The Millésime collection pays tribute to the golden age of watchmaking from the 1930s to 1960s. The word Millésime, meaning “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, couldn’t be more fit...

Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Aqualand 40th Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Aqualand 40th Anniversary Aug 4, 2025

Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Aqualand 40th Anniversary Edition

As my thirties pass by and more gray hairs emerge, I can’t help but notice the unironic fondness I’ve been feeling for two-tone watches. Much like my inability to understand the slang my kids use, feeling that the rizz of two-tone slaps (am I doing that right?) seems to be an inevitable part of aging. And while Citizen’s decision to opt for gold accents to mark the 40th anniversary of the Promaster Aqualand probably isn’t a nod to middle aged collectors and is more likely a heartfelt way to honor the original Aqualand C0023, it feels satisfyingly appropriate that this icon is embracing two-tone to celebrate being over the hill. In full transparency of my own horological biases, I went into this review feeling burnt out on dive watches, which in retrospect seems inevitable after owning about a dozen black dialed divers over a five year period. In recent months I’ve also developed a bit of a pro-quartz preference as my first mechanical watches start to show their age and I’m seeking out watchmakers on a limited budget, another seemingly inevitable result of my collecting journey. I share this because, no longer dazzled by ratcheting bezels and mechanical movements in the way I once was, I thought it would be nice to get my hands on a robust and worry free quartz watch to take on my annual road trip from New Hampshire to Michigan. One text to our Managing Editor Zach Kazan during which I forgot to clarify that I would be content if I never saw another black dial d...

Introducing – The Sophisticated & Feminine Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar 36mm Monochrome
Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar 36mm Aug 1, 2025

Introducing – The Sophisticated & Feminine Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar 36mm

Like many of Montblanc’s watches, the name Bohème was originally assigned to a line of fountain pens. Released in 2014 as a collection of women’s watches, the current collection of automatics and day & night models expands with the arrival of a sophisticated Perpetual Calendar in 36mm rose gold and two-tone rose gold and steel […]

Hot Take: Adding Some Weight To The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Omega Jul 26, 2025

Hot Take: Adding Some Weight To The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

Omega didn’t make a fuss about these two new gold Seamaster Diver 300M references and just sneakily added them to the catalog. And I wonder why there was no press release on them, like there was on the new steel Seamaster Diver 300M with orange accents the other week. Anyway, that decision was made, but […] Visit Hot Take: Adding Some Weight To The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT $6,900 Jul 22, 2025

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

There’s something satisfying about handling a watch that feels like it knows exactly what it is. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (L3.803.5.53.6) landed on my wrist with that kind of confident presence-not shouting for attention, but quietly competent in the way good tool watches should be. At 39mm with a mix of steel and 18-karat rose gold, it’s Longines’ centennial nod to their 1925 original, the world’s first dual time zone wristwatch. The question isn’t whether it’s historically significant-it obviously is-but whether it actually earns its place in today’s crowded GMT field. Longines, GMT Watches, and the Inevitable Tudor Question Let’s address the elephant in the room: if you’re shopping GMT watches around this price point, you’ve probably looked at the Tudor Black Bay GMT ($4,675). It’s the obvious comparison, sitting at roughly the same price with similar functionality. But where Tudor leans into its diving heritage with a rotating 24-hour bezel, Longines approaches GMT complications from their aviation roots. The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 isn’t trying to be a dive watch that happens to track time zones-it’s purpose-built for travelers and pilots who need to know what time it is “there.” The other natural competitors include the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ($6,900), the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer ($3,175), and the NOMOS Zürich Worldtimer ($6,100). But it’s worth noting these watches solve the multi-timezone problem...

Introducing – A Fresh Splash of Lime Green and Ice Blue for the Armin Strom Orbit Monochrome
Armin Strom Orbit Armin Strom first Jul 21, 2025

Introducing – A Fresh Splash of Lime Green and Ice Blue for the Armin Strom Orbit

Armin Strom first introduced the System 78 series model, the Orbit, in 2022, which became the world’s first watch with an on-demand date display integrated into a ceramic bezel. The original version featured a mostly monochromatic look, a steel case and a black gold dial, accented only by the red date pointer tip and matching […]

Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref 7128/1G Jul 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G

The polarising Cubitus collection is not yet a year old, but Patek Philippe’s newest line of elegant sports watches has expanded in a big way with the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G-001 in a new ‘medium’ 40 mm size that transforms the wearing experience for the better. With summer now in full swing, it’s worth looking at this new Cubitus and considering what it means for the future of the collection. Featuring a silky 18k white gold case and bracelet, the smaller Cubitus practically drapes itself on the wrist, and is probably the most compelling launch yet from the new collection. Also available in rose gold (ref. 7128/1R-001), the new “medium” Cubitus is a luxury sports watch in the true sense of the term, combining everyday comfort and wearability with premium materials and high-quality finishing inside and out. For better or worse, the Cubitus retains several signature elements of the Nautilus such as the embossed sunburst blue dial and lozenge-shaped hands. Initial thoughts When the Cubitus launched last year, it was decried by many spectators as an unworthy successor to the sought-after Nautilus. I freely admit I never had a strong affinity for the Nautilus, which might explain my open mind toward the Cubitus, but I really like the faceted eight-sided crystal and find the overall design about as compelling as that of its esteemed predecessor. That said, I do wish the Cubitus had more of a distinct identity of its own. In the case of the current ref. 7128/1G-001 in 1...