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Results for Titanium Grade 2 vs Grade 5

1,600 articles · 658 videos found · page 54 of 76

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Twenty twenty-one Jan 15, 2024

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001

Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...

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Montblanc Braves the Cold with their Latest 1858 Geosphere Worn & Wound
Montblanc Braves Jan 11, 2024

Montblanc Braves the Cold with their Latest 1858 Geosphere

In 2015 Montblanc launched the Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphere Vasco da Gama, an ultra-high-end Minerva based word timer, which featured southern and northern hemisphere displays. Later in 2018, they introduced a more affordable non-tourbillon version called the 1858 Geosphere, but this time the hemispheres were displayed on a vertical axis. Since then, there have been multiple different color combinations and materials, such as bronze and titanium, on bracelets, and even on a bund strap. New for 2024 is the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen South Pole Limited Edition.    This new 42mm x 12.8mm piece is crafted in lightweight titanium, with a blue aluminum bezel insert, which features green lumed cardinal points. The hour and minute hands, along with the numbers and markers also glow green. While the two domed hemisphere globes, together with the second time zone displayed at 9 o’clock glow blue. The dial features a sfumato iced blue glacier pattern, which must be seen in person to truly admire. It comes with a matching interchangeable titanium bracelet and a gray rope patterned textile strap. The neat thing about these watches is their caliber 29.25 movement, a combination of a Sellita SW300 base and a proprietary world-time module. The latter allows you to independently control the hour hand via the crown, as well as the second time zone via a hidden pusher at 10 o’clock, making it a perfect travel companion and explorer. The 0 Oxygen in the model name means there ...

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Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine SJX Watches
Raketa Dec 21, 2023

Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine

The Raketa Sonar is a unique take on a dive watch. Featuring a funky, 1970s design with a colourful, 24-hour display – that was designed with the help of a Soviet navy captain – the Sonar has 200 m of water resistance. Two versions are available, a regular production and a limited edition – but it’s the latter that stands out. Both have steel cases, but the limited edition Sonar Kashalot has a bezel fabricated from titanium taken from the hull of the K-322 Kashalot, an Akula-class nuclear submarine that was deployed by the Soviet navy and decommissioned in 2019. Initial thoughts Known for its ostentatiously retro styling strongly evocative of Soviet-era timekeepers, Raketa sticks to its specialty with the Sonar. The design follows the mantra of form follows function: every aspect is catered to someone working in a nuclear-powered submariner. The 24-hour scale, for example, is useful since there is neither night nor day in a submarine. While the execution may not be to everyone’s taste, the originality of the concept is unmistakable. Recycled metal from Soviet nuclear submarines aren’t exactly rare – the Kashalot weighed over 14,000 tonnes fully loaded – but it gives the Sonar an additional degree of novelty and appeal. The submarine-titanium bezel is, however, substantially more expensive and only found on the limited edition. The standard model costs €1,900, and is the quality is as expected for the price. Raketa has improved its quality in recent years,...

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Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Turns Dec 13, 2023

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

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Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1 Worn & Wound
Ressence Brings Some Color Dec 4, 2023

Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1

In the big wide world of watches, there is nothing quite like a Ressence. The Belgium-based brand has made its name through futuristic designs that utilize co-planar revolving discs and other dial elements to create a cohesive and interesting time-telling experience. In the brand’s lineup, the Type 1 Round is positioned as the foundation and the most distilled vision of what Ressence stands for. The new Type 1° M, however, reveals a playful side that has not been seen before. Out with the staid black and gray tones for which the brand has been so well known for; it’s time for some color. The Type 1 Round’s case is, well, round, and measures 42.7mm wide, 47mm lug to lug, and 11mm thick. It is made of Grade 5 Titanium and does away with a traditional crown (more on winding in a moment). The dial is in the classic Ressence regulator style and displays days, hours, minutes, and seconds. Without a number in sight, which is which? On this multi-colored version it’s a little easier to ascertain: the blue chapter ring along the edge of the dial marks the seconds while the green dial tracks the hours. Yellow is for running seconds, and the red segmented ring marks the days of the week with the two outlined sections representing the weekend. Under the hood, Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS) enables the modules for the hours, minutes, seconds, and days to continuously revolve around one another. The movement is based on a (heavily) modified ETA-2892 and runs...

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IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera Nov 18, 2023

IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph

Just in time for the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix, IWC reveals another rendition of a racing chronograph, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph. Available in two guises either titanium or Ceratanium, the new model retains the familiar visage of the standard Pilot’s Chronograph but with racetrack-inspired tweaks. Initial thoughts IWC has never quite had a bona fide racing chronograph with the gravitas of the Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera. Its past racing timepieces included the little loved and now discontinued Ingenieur and the more successful Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG.  With the success of the Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG with its Tiffany blue-esque colour, it’s unsurprising that another iteration has come along. The new chronograph has a distinctive racing aesthetic despite being a Pilot’s Chronograph, thanks to the tachymeter scale and more pronounced dial markings. The Formula 1 feel is particularly evident in the Ceratanium model that’s distinguished by its predominantly black design embellished with white and mint green accents.  That said, the paradox of a Formula 1-inspired aviator’s watch is hard to understand – the two themes don’t go together at all, although it is an appealing sports watch. IWC is relying on the strength of its bestselling Pilot’s line to build a racing offering, in part due to the Ingenieur’s historical lack of success. The Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team model The model starts at US$9,800 in ...

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Hands-On With the Iridescent New Oris ProPilot X Laser Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Czapek Arcanaut Nov 16, 2023

Hands-On With the Iridescent New Oris ProPilot X Laser

Oris expands their ProPilot X collection this week at the Dubai Watch Week event, with the introduction of the ProPilot X Laser. The watch continues with the theme of the ProPilot X, bringing the same trim titanium case and bracelet to the party, but this time mated to a very different dial experience than we’ve seen before in this collection. There are big changes and some smaller ones that we appreciate seeing here, as this represents the biggest departure from the standard trio introduced last year. Oris has never been afraid to wade into experimental waters with their dials, and this ProPilot X continues that trend in a new way.  The latest ProPilot X is called Laser thanks to the technique used to create its dial, a method which Oris claims has not been applied in watchmaking before. Oris enlisted the help of a research lab affiliated to the prestigious ETH Zürich university to bring the concept to life. The result is something bordering ethereal in person, with a constantly changing palette of colors rendered in the unique texture. The iridescent effect is quite powerful and Oris has demonstrated a deft hand in making sure it’s the focal point of this watch. We’ve been spoiled by some truly amazing dial creations in recent years from the likes of Grand Seiko, Czapek, Arcanaut, and yes, even Oris. My first thought upon seeing a truly compelling dial is to how it fits in with the rest of the watch. For instance, the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite boasts a unique color...

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New: IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG and Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One™ Team Deployant
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Nov 16, 2023

New: IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG and Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One™ Team

IWC Schaffhausen releases the latest iteration of their Pilot’s Watch, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41. The Pilot’s Watch now comes with tachymeter scales dedicated to it’s long time motorsports partners AMG and the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team. The AMG variant in Titanium and the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team in their proprietary Ceratanium®Read More

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MB&F; Introduces the HM11 Architect SJX Watches
MB&F; Nov 15, 2023

MB&F; Introduces the HM11 Architect

MB&F; has introduced its latest Horological Machine, the HM11 Architect, inspired by 1960s futurist architecture. Featuring a central flying tourbillon surrounded by four polished titanium lobes, three of which contain dials, the HM11 offers a novel rotating case that pulls double duty as an enormous winding crown. Designed by longtime collaborator Eric Giroud, the HM11 takes cues from habitology, an architectural movement of the late 1960s that challenged conventional norms for domestic buildings, preferring organic forms to straight walls and rectangular windows.  Initial thoughts As someone who favours traditional design, I usually find Horological Machines a tad large and a bit ostentatious. But the HM11 is more compact and sleeker than its specs suggest. In fact, the HM11 is the most traditional Horological Machine yet on the wrist, with a round 42 mm case and simple lugs. It has a surprisingly small footprint on the wrist, though it is tall, standing 23 mm at its highest, so it’s not for the faint of heart (or the long-sleeved).  Yet even by the sculptural standards set by previous Horological Machines, the HM11 feels ambitious, particularly in the case construction. The complex form of the case, for example, requires 19 gaskets to ensure 20 m of water resistance. There are also numerous hidden details, like a proprietary shock dampening system adapted from the aerospace industry, that contribute to an overall package that is deeply satisfying; the longer you look...

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YEMA Launches a Kickstarter to Support a Manufacture Caliber in New Superman Bronze References Worn & Wound
Yema Nov 10, 2023

YEMA Launches a Kickstarter to Support a Manufacture Caliber in New Superman Bronze References

Watch brand YEMA has long been synonymous with French elegance and their latest model, the Superman Bronze CMM.10 is no exception. Utilizing crowd-funding through Kickstarter, YEMA has produced a limited edition watch that is as architectural in design as it is reliable when it comes to performance. Available in two sizes (39 and 41mm) and two dial color options (gradient blue and lacquered black), potential customers have the choice of a watch that best suits their individual preferences. Both dials are a striking contrast to the bronze, adding a balance of warm and cool tones that pair well with the rugged design of the Superman model. The watch itself has undergone a few changes from the original Superman models, most notable in the subtle upgrades to the dial, including the iconic “shovel” second hand has been replaced with a lollipop sweep hand, creating a more harmonious overall design. The timepiece now proudly exhibits French engravings and features the new “MANUFACTURE FRANÇAISE” signature thoughtfully placed at the 6 o’clock position. This change reflects YEMA’s updated brand positioning, resulting from their decision to internalize the manufacturing of components for the CMM.10 caliber. Speaking of the CMM.10 caliber, this movement promises 70-hours of power reserve and is rated to -3/+5 seconds per day is made from non-magnetic alloys to keep it from being impacted by magnetic forces during daily use. YEMA says that they worked in collaboration wit...

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The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968 Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Nov 9, 2023

The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968

Now in their fourth collaboration together, Swiss brand Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB have once again brought their individual strengths to give us the Chronograph ‘68. This vintage-inspired watch is the best of both worlds: providing a great timepiece, while also being a stylish, vintage inspired accessory for anyone looking for an upgrade to their wrist rotation. The impetus for this watch’s design comes from the tumultuous year of 1968. As Mathey-Tissot recounts the various cultural shifts during this period in history, one really has the sense that there was a dramatic change happening as the world was preparing to ring in a new decade. Mathey-Tissot and Massena cite events like Arthur Ashe’s historic victory at the U.S. Open and the emergence of “mod” culture in London as important cultural touchstones from the year, and the Chronograph ‘68 exists as a kind of tribute to a very specific point in history by adhering to particular aesthetic choices rooted in late ‘60s watch design. To commemorate this period, Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB looked at various reference points of watches that were sold during the 1960’s. The result is an amalgamation of design elements that work seamlessly together to make a timeless watch that could easily be made today or 60 years ago. From the black dial against the 41mm stainless steel case, to the reflective hour markers, to the three colorful registers in red, white, and blue, the balance of neutral design and pops of ...

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Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey” SJX Watches
Tudor Nov 7, 2023

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”

After shading the Aqua Terra Worldtimer line in greys and greens, Omega debuts the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”. A new take on its dive-ready GMT, the watch  is named after the dark grey ceramic case, which harnesses the material’s hardness while staying lightweight thanks to the extensive use of titanium for its internals, including the movement bridges. Initial thoughts Titanium and ceramic are not noteworthy in themselves, but here the materials are combined in an interesting and functional manner. The scratch resistance of ceramic is useful for the case, while the titanium inner components keep the weight down, a helpful characteristic for a big watch. And the materials also create a shades-of-grey appearance that gives the watch a sense of seriousness – with the orange accents bringing some tasteful contrast – though it is less stark compared to its all-black ceramic sibling.  Thought lighter than usual for a watch of its size, the new GMT is a big watch measuring 45.5 mm in diameter, making it quite a bit bigger than comparable watches from Tudor for instance.  It would be more wearable and have a wider appealing if the case was in the range of 41 mm to 42 mm. Despite its material attractions, however, the GMT “Dark Grey” is expensive at US$22,200. It is  almost twice as expensive as the same model in black ceramic (that admittedly doesn’t have a titanium movement). Despite the titanium components, the price is hard to justify since it i...

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Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant (Force) Escapement: The Evolution of a Revolution Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Force Escapement Oct 16, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant (Force) Escapement: The Evolution of a Revolution

While it is remarkable how Girard-Perregaux made the movement, it is even more astonishing how they turned it into such an incredibly good-looking watch. Compared to its predecessor, the Neo Constant Escapement has a very wearable size of 45mm in diameter at a thickness of 14.8mm. It sits nicely on even a smaller wrist thanks to relatively short lugs, while the titanium case keeps the weight down.

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Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Unveils Oct 14, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement

Still one of the most notable escapements on the market despite being a decade old, Girard-Perregaux’s double-wheel-and-silicon invention has been refined and revived as the Neo Constant Escapement. Presented in titanium, the Neo Constant Escapement is the regular production version of the unique piece in pink gold made for Only Watch 2023. The calibre within is a revamped version of the 2013 original that retains the double escape wheels and integral constant-force silicon spring, but reworked for superior function. Initial thoughts Technically impressive as it was, the original Constant Escapement (CE) from 2013 was huge (the case was 48 mm, making size one of its biggest weakness) and expensive at the time. That explains in part why the CE never caught on despite its merits. The revamp of the watch ten years old has substantially improved both its function and form. The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is both more wearable and more appealing in terms of design. Besides being more compact, the “Neo” case also has a highly domed crystal that shows off the escapement well. Even though the watch has been redesigned, the NCE retains the hyper-modern, open-worked styling of the original. The look certainly suits the inventive nature of the silicon escapement, though it would have been interesting if GP experimented with a classical design, which might have been ironic but attractive for the contrasting ideas. Equally important is the fact that the retail price remains ab...

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Norqain’s Latest Wild ONE LE is a New Collaboration with the Hakuna Mipaka Wildlife Sanctuary in South Africa Worn & Wound
Norqain s Latest Wild ONE Sep 25, 2023

Norqain’s Latest Wild ONE LE is a New Collaboration with the Hakuna Mipaka Wildlife Sanctuary in South Africa

In just five years, Norqain has established a unique identity as an independent Swiss watchmaker with a special focus on ruggedness and sustainability. With models named “Independence”, “Adventure”, and “Freedom”, Norqain represents individualism with a sense of responsibility. Now for the third time they have partnered with animal sanctuary founder Dean Schneider to create a limited edition watch: The Wild ONE Hakuna Mipaka in brown. Young Swiss financier-turned-conservationist Dean Schneider has managed the Hakuna Mipaka (Swahili for “No Limits”) wildlife sanctuary in South Africa since 2017. The 400-hectare haven has become a refuge for animals like King Dexter, a lion whose upbringing has been well-documented on social media. It is also home to thousands of animals such as giraffes, zebras, and various reptiles. Hakuna Mipaka is not open to the public and therefore relies on donations and other forms of support. Like the most recent collaboration with Dean Schneider, this new watch is part of the Independence Wild ONE collection. Production of this line is entirely animal-free, a north star for Norqain and the rest of its products. The case (42mm x 12.3mm x 49.4mm) is made of NORTEQ, a custom carbon composite that sandwiches a rubber shock absorber integrated with sand from Schneider’s North African oasis. Inside is the manufacture caliber NN20/1 (manufactured by Kenissi) housed in a titanium enclosure. On the sapphire caseback is a special engraving ...

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Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD in Black Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD in Black

Tudor expands their FXD family today with a new regular production reference that features a black dial and bezel. The watch follows the same formula as the Marine Nationale FXD that was released in late 2021, a flat 12.7mm thick, 42mm titanium case with a fixed lug design. There are a few changes here worth noting, however, and this might just be the most approachable FXD to date. While there is no official affiliation with this watch, the latest FXD was released alongside a display of the brand’s rich history in issued watches, right next to the original Sealab I at the Man In The Sea museum in Panama City Florida.  The setting is a fitting reminder of the remarkable Sealab program, and an era when watches like this were used as indispensable tools, the same as a compass or knife. This the spirit of the FXD and even the broader Pelagos collection as a whole, and as such we’ll be putting the new watch through its paces on a dive in the Gulf of Mexico, keep an eye out for the full report from the experience coming soon. The black FXD welcomes the same bit of red text at the bottom of the dial that we saw in the Pelagos 39 released last year. It provides the same benefit here, serving to reduce the visual weight of the 4 lines of text at the bottom of the dial. The matte black dial is joined by a matte black bezel insert (no sunburst pattern here), and the bezel is the biggest departure from the original FXD. Rather than counting down, and bi-directional (features done...

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Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N SJX Watches
Tudor Unveils Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N

Tudor’s release on September 14th lived up to the anticipation, particularly for enthusiasts who appreciate vintage-inspired design. The Pelagos FXD ref. 25717N is a variant of the model developed together with the French navy and shares the same specs, including a 42 mm titanium case. But the new FXD “Single Red” pays homage to the brand’s historical affiliation with the US Navy, which turned to Tudor for military-issue timepieces starting in 1950s. Initial thoughts While this may be fairly unsurprising given the nature of Tudor’s catalogue, the new FXD is well executed and ticks all the right boxes for those who love military-inspired tool watches. The no-nonsense black dial with the “single red” marking instantly evokes well-known dive watches of the 1970s. The watch itself is not new. It’s essentially identical to the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” from in 2021, but with black dial and bezel that gives it a more purposeful look. It’s a predictable evolution of the model given Tudor’s emphasis on its historical ties with navies and other professional organisations. Like the original FXD in blue, this has a clean dial that allows the design to be unobstructed. Notably, the designers should be commending for going with pure white Super-Luminova on this, instead of faux-vintage lume that might have looked too affected. However, its designers could have been even more striking by dialling back the text on the dial even more, perhaps having just the ...

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Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic Sep 5, 2023

Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie

Audemars Piguet turned to an unorthodox material for its latest striking timepiece, the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in black ceramic. Introduced in two variations, one with white gold markers and the other with baguette-diamond indices, the monochromatic new reference is the next step in this historic brand’s long history of chiming watches.  Initial thoughts Overall, this is an excellent update to a watch that was already very good. The original Royal Oak Supersonnerie is entirely in titanium, a lightweight metal with good acoustic qualities, and has very subtle aesthetics with a smoked grey dial. In contrast, the new all-black ceramic repeater feels more modern and in-line with what we have come to expect from Audemars Piguet, especially for the Royal Oak that has always been available in unconventional materials ranging from carbon composite to BMG. The inherent contradiction of an extremely expensive striking watch in a material not usually suited for transmitting sound is obvious. Yet it is also logical since it demonstrates the function of the brand’s proprietary Supersonnerie amplifying system that arguably transcends the case material. The titanium Supersonnie strikes loud and clear, but we have yet to hear the ceramic repeater strike in real life. It would certainly be interesting to have them both side-by-side to compare. While the brand already has several Royal Oak models with bracelets in ceramic, the new repeater is debuted only on a rubber s...

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