Deployant
MB&F; launches the new Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’
The MB&F; HM9 undergoes its next iteration with the use of sapphire glass for a spectacular new watch - the Horological Machine No 9 Sapphire Vision.
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Deployant
The MB&F; HM9 undergoes its next iteration with the use of sapphire glass for a spectacular new watch - the Horological Machine No 9 Sapphire Vision.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe celebrates 50 years of its iconic Nautilus model, and brings with it white gold, platinum and a wild card Nautilus desk clock.The post Patek Philippe celebrates 50 years of the Nautilus, and has given us probably the best Nautilus you’ve ever seen, and of course, a desk clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe celebrates the semicentennial of its coveted sports watch with the 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection, a trio of two hand precious metal watches in white gold and platinum – and an unexpected pocket watch desk clock. The deletion of the seconds hand is a return to the line’s aesthetic roots, also demonstrated by a new 38 mm case size, very close to that of the original. But, it remains on the precious metal path Patek Philippe began in 2021 when it axed the steel ref. 5711. Initial Thoughts These anniversary editions are the truest to the original Nautilus that we’ve seen in recent memory. The sans seconds ref. 3700/1A, launched in 1976, was powered by the JLC 920-based cal. 28-355C, which the calibre 240 was meant to replace. While Audemars Piguet stuck to the two hands plug date format with the Royal Oak Jumbo, Patek Philippe migrated the Nautilus to its new sweep-seconds platform. I believe something was lost when Patek Philippe added a sweep seconds hand to the Nautilus, though understandable from a business perspective given that watches with seconds hands generally have broader appeal than those without. That is recovered here, and the deletion of the calendar sets it apart from the original enough to not be a “reissue”. A smaller 38 mm Nautilus, with better proportions than the existing Ladies models, in also appreciated. The 38 mm platinum ref. 5610/1P-001. It is a shame then that the return of a two hand Nautilus is to be a fleeting one,...
SJX Watches
Topping A. Lange & Söhne’s 2025 line-up is the Minute Repeater Perpetual. Featuring a compact platinum case and black enamel dial, the new flagship watch of the Saxonia line marks the first time Lange has combined these two classic complications on their own. Limited to 50 pieces in platinum, the Repeater Perpetual is positioned near the top of the current catalogue. Beyond the technical complexity, it’s been endowed with an exceptional white gold and black enamel dial crafted in-house, and features the frosted movement finish that’s often reserved for the brand’s special editions. Initial thoughts It’s always nice to see a brand cover new ground, especially when that ground is the tried-and-true combination of a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. It’s an extravagant, decadent watch that combines one of the most legible perpetual calendar layouts with one of the industry’s most technically sophisticated minute repeaters. Beginning with its compact form, the Repeater Perpetual packs 640 components inside a platinum case that’s just 40.5 mm wide and 12.5 mm thick; roughly the same dimensions as a Rolex Submariner. It features an enamel dial in deep black, which is always a risk, since even the tiniest imperfections tend to stand out vividly. A cynic might point out that the new calibre L122.2 is largely a mashup of a Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange Minute Repeater, but to do so would be to miss the point. The movement is everything Lange does be...
Revolution
Crafted entirely from titanium with a platinum bezel, this model debuts the first-ever red fumé dial. Renowned for its exceptional acoustic quality, the Supersonnerie lives up to its reputation in this latest release, which is limited to just five pieces. Wei takes an exclusive look at this new masterpiece, revealing everything you need to know […]
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Teddy Baldassarre
The holiday season is upon us once again, leaving us all with our three usual questions: Where exactly did 2023 go? Where will I be to ring in the New Year? And what is the perfect watch gift for each of my family members and friends who share my passion for timepieces? We can't help you with the first two questions, but we're definitely here for you on the third. Here, we've put together a list of watches in several categories, with various types of recipients in mind, at a variety of price points. Best of all, many of these watches are available right here in our online shop. For the sophisticated gent: Seiko Presage SRPB43 Price: $319, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 11.8mm, Lug to Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 50m, Movement: Automatic Seiko 4R35 The “Cocktail Time” series within Seiko’s automatic-only Presage family of attainable, attractive dress watches are designed to evoke the types of high-end cocktails served at Japan’s famously atmospheric rooftop bars. This model with a stainless steel case and a sunray ice-blue dial takes its nickname and inspiration from a classic Martini. The glossy-finish dial’s ridged, rippling edges help give it the look of a birds-eye view inside the cocktail glass; the tone-on-tone date window is a subtle but impressive bonus at this price point, as is the in-house, automatic movement inside. The 40.5-mm case is topped by a box-shaped crystal made of a proprietary Seiko material called H...
Revolution
SJX Watches
Drawing inspiration from the Kinetic Chronograph of 1999, Seiko’s latest is the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph. It is equipped with a new solar movement that has the ability to measure elapsed time with a resolution of up to 1/100th of a second, though its defining attribute is the design: the chronograph and time displays are separated into individual sub-dials. The SFJ007 made for the 2023 World Athletics Championships Initial thoughts Seiko’s sports chronographs, particularly those equipped with quartz or solar-powered movements, receive less recognition than their higher-end counterparts. However, some of the brand’s recent endeavours in this segment are interesting, and this is one of them. The primary point of interest in the new model lies in its unique aesthetic with a separated sub-dial design that fans of the brand recognise from the Kinetic Chronograph. The new Speedtimer reimagines the design with a smart and highly-functional movement and price tag of well under US$1,000, making it a compelling option for someone seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The Kinetic Chronograph from 1999. Image – Seiko Up to 1/100th of a second Having done away with the original closed dial of the Kinetic Chronograph, the Speedtimer features four registers beneath a curved sapphire crystal. Positioned at six is an oversized sub-dial displaying the time, while a 1/10th of a second chronograph sits at ten. The running seconds can be observed at 12, and a ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
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Hodinkee
A great year...for watches.
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Worn & Wound
Louis-Ulysse Chopard founded his eponymous watch company in 1860, but it took over 100 years for the brand to truly come into its own. In 1996, and after three years of development, the company debuted its own in-house movement. The wait seemed to have been worth it. The L.U.C 96.01-L immediately drew acclaim for beautiful finishing, embracing the microrotor, and COSC certification. It, and the subsequent L.U.C. 1860 dress watch, marked a sea change from reliance on third parties to true independence, arriving at a resurgence in fine mechanical watchmaking. Thirty years later, the L.U.C. family has expanded into dozens of variants, complications, and movements. But at 2026’s Watches & Wonders, Chopard pays tribute to 30 years of in-house manufacturing with a continuation of that vaunted original. The L.U.C 1860 Chronometer uses the same dial and microrotor movement from 1996, albeit with their own upgrades and unique design tweaks. The intricate white-gold dial features guilloché finishing in the center, emanating in scalloped waves from the Chopard logo and nameplate. The concentric circles are separated by thin bands of white gold, and delicate spear-shaped markers point inward, toward the dauphine hands. At 6 o’clock, the small-seconds dial echoes the twin-circle pattern of the overall dial, and Chopard specifically mentions the lack of a date window “to preserve purity.” Where the first L.U.C. 1860 had a white dial with gold accents, this Chronometer wears...
Time+Tide
Toledano & Chan have uncovered the latest evolution of their cult-hit brutalist bestseller, the b/1.3r., which boasts a gold ripple dial.The post Toledano & Chan sends ripples across its range, reworking the cult B/1 with a surging solid gold dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Inspired by 1930s Russian fairytale, Raketa’s latest is the Golden Key, an unusual watch that further expands the brand’s diverse repertoire. The cushioned-shaped watch has a case of walnut wood – this evokes historical wooden clocks and watches from Eastern Europe – and includes a winding key, though it can be wound conventionally via the crown as well. Though modelled on a similar 1970s Raketa model, the modern-day creation is a surprisingly apt adaption of its namesake, The Golden Key, or The Adventures of Buratino, a Russian version of Pinocchio that also includes a wooden puppet that comes to life, but also includes a golden key as central to the tale. Like all Raketa watches, this is affordable and powered by an in-house movement, albeit a basic calibre descended from a Soviet era construction. Initial thoughts The Golden Key has a recognisable 1970s look thanks to its shape and dial, but still manages to stand out because of the wood case. The case and dial are detailed nicely enough so the watch avoids looking like a novelty souvenir. The winding does feel like a bit of a gimmick, but it has no bearing on the function of the watch, which can be wound via the crown anyway. Raketa stuck to the colours of the 1970s original with the Golden Key, making it pleasing but also plain. A more adventurous combination of wood and colour would have made it more interesting; I’m sure that’s on the cards if this one sells well. The only weakness of the watch is arguab...
Worn & Wound
While there are many watches inspired by military, naval, or overlanding missions, there are surprisingly few in tribute to firefighting, despite the profession’s propensity for gear and danger. Sure, Sinn makes timepieces in their EZM line for German firefighters to wear into burning buildings, but they’re more utilitarian than conceptual; tool watches rather than tributes. Enter William Wood, a British watchmaker founded by Jonny Garret and named after his late grandfather, who was a decorated firefighter. All of the brand’s pieces are made from upcycled firefighting materials, with portions of the proceeds from each collection benefitting firefighting charities globally. With their newest-and perhaps most eccentric-timepiece, the Vintage Triumph, William Wood continues that legacy. The Vintage Triumph capitalizes on the brawn of the profession it’s inspired by, with a beefy 41mm case diameter. The case itself is gold-plated with both brushed and polished finishes and promises 100 meters of water resistance, should the wearer ever trade fire for its natural opponent. The diamond-cut dial wears a celebratory shade of aged champagne, which is paired with polished gold numerals and a gold bezel with black markers, creating a rather exclamatory visual profile, furthered by the date window at the 6 o’clock position, and the subdials (inspired by fire engine pump gauges) at 3 and 9. Underneath it all is a Sellita SW510 Chronograph movement, which promises a 48-ho...
Teddy Baldassarre
When a watch touts on its dial that it is a "Chronometer" or an "Officially Certified Chronometer" or even a "Superlative Chronometer," what exactly does that mean? How does a chronometer watch differ from a watch that does not make that claim? For that matter, a newbie to the timepiece game might ask, what is the difference between a watch with "chronometer" on the dial and a watch with "chronograph" on the dial? In this comprehensive guide, we attempt to answer all of your burning questions about chronometer watches and what sets them apart. [toc-section heading="The Chronometer Throughout History"] Our original, classical definition of a chronometer can be traced back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to determine longitude in order to avoid the perils of running aground or veering hopelessly off course. The man credited with developing the first of these “marine chronometers” was legendary British watchmaker John Harrison; his invention facilitated the celestial navigation used at the time by navigators at sea to determine their ship’s position in coordination with a sextant. Marine chronometers, which were essentially highly accurate clocks mounted on gimbals inside wooden boxes, were among the first portable timepieces and were instrumental in the global seagoing trade that helped build our modern, interconnected world. Ulysse Nardin, foun...
Video
Teddy Baldassarre
Chronograph watches are among the most popular styles of timepieces: iconic models like the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, TAG Heuer Carrera, and Breitling Navitimer, for example, have become some of the most famous and collectible watches in the modern era and have contributed to the enduring appeal of the chronograph to generations of enthusiasts. If you're new to the watch game, however, you might be wondering not only what all the buzz is about but what these watches actually do that makes them so special. Read on for a comprehensive primer on chronograph watches, from their earliest ancestors to the most ambitious, avant-garde timekeeping technology available in chronographs today. Chronograph vs. Chronometer As I explore in depth in our guide to chronometers, one of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: Chronometer and Chronograph. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. The terms are not interchangeable but they are also not mutually exclusive: a watch equipped with chronograph functions can also be a chronometer if it has met a s...
Time+Tide
A range refresh brings new Date & GMT models with Goldilocks 42mm cases and more impressive, COSC-certified movements.The post The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date & GMT give watch fans what they want appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I’m glad to realize that choosing these three watches was difficult for me. For less than €1,000, there’s a boatload of options. Even though I’m the last one to contribute to this sub-€1K series - there were seven colleagues and their lists before me - I didn’t pick any of the watches that had already […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Gerard’s Picks From Yema, Ligure, And… to read the full article.
Fratello
Since 2011, Omega has been one of the partners of the Orbis Flying Eye Hospital. With ambassadors like Daniel Craig and Cindy Crawford, the Swiss watch brand aims to get more attention for Orbis’s initiatives. The Flying Eye Hospital Orbis is fighting against preventable blindness. Since 1982, this non-profit organization has had a flying hospital […] Visit Supporting Orbis With The MoonSwatch Auction to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer has had a relatively sorted history since its introduction in 2004, taking on a range of identities scarcely connected between era specific design codes that come and go. The bits that have connected through the years remain as compelling today as they were in the pre-Aquaracer 2000 Series watches, and after a generation of Aquaracer growth, their latest effort in the Solargraph feels to have finally found a lasting voice by tying it all together in a cohesive package. This is the first Aquaracer since those early 2000 Series watches that has felt like a fully matured concept to my eye, and I hope it’s a sign of things to come within the family. To this day the Aquaracer exists in many forms spread across the Aquaracer 200, 300, and 1000 ranges. Each adopts the general dive watch aesthetic at the core of the collection, but you’ll find complications ranging from chronographs and GMTs alongside gem-set colorful dials in a range of sizes. It’s a collection that covers a lot of ground. The Solargraph, as seen in its newest guise released earlier this year, manages to capture a near perfect distillation of the Aquaracer design language, and manages enough restraint to feel like a fresh, and I’ll venture to say more timeless execution of the theme. That’s merely at first blush, however. We recently spent some time with the watch to see just how well that pans out in practice. $3050 [VIDEO] The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph is the Aquaracer W...
Video
It’s time for episode 35 of A Week in Watches! This week, Zach Weiss is back with some new, old releases. Well, they are all new versions of watches that have existed before, to be more accurate. There’s a stunning urushi dial from Grand Seiko, a cool collab from Synchron, a funky Zenith, and some unabashedly bold Citizens. This week’s episode is sponsored by Whatnot, a live-stream auction app where you can buy and sell unique items. Join the Windup Watch Shop on Tuesday, February 7th ET, where they will be showing and selling various items from the shop, including the Zodiac x Rowing Blazer Sea Wolf and ADPT Series 1 Watches. There will be giveaways, auctions, and more! Follow this link to sign up for Whatnot and get $15 in credit toward your first purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 35: What’s Old is New Again appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Revolution
Hodinkee
A veteran of the Swiss watch trade show circuit decamps for pre-owned pastures.
Our watch-related movie of the week takes a familiar digital watch into the 22nd century.
Time+Tide
It’s quite common for microbrand watches to become a competing list of specifications trying to undercut each other on price, with buzzwords thrown around that promise great water resistance, sapphire crystals and Swiss movements. It’s hard to blame them either, because watch enthusiasts can be easily swayed by these claims of unbeatable value for money, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Retter 22 channels the style of Vacheron’s iconic 222 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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