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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription Nov 18, 2021

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Phillips sold US$74.5 million of watches during its recent Geneva auctions, the besting the two-decade old record set by Antiquorum in 2002 for the biggest watch auction ever. Now it the focus shifts to Hong Kong for the fall watch sale in the city. Amongst the top lots in Geneva were important creations by independent watchmakers, including the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch that sold for US$5.2 million, as well as an F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription that achieved US$4.3 million (fees included). Fortunately there are fine examples of the genre for far less money at the upcoming Hong Kong auction. We round up some of the most notable – and possibly overlooked – in the sale, including the little-known F.P. Journe Octa “France-China”, the rarely-seen Haldimann H11, and a pair of quirky watches by Vianney Halter (but designed by Pascal Pages). The movement of the H11 The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 841: Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter Perhaps the most complicated watch ever conceived by Vianney Halter is the Opus 3, which was originally a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and American jeweller Harry Winston. Entirely digital in its time display, the Opus 3 has no hands, but instead six apertures on its face. The date occupies the two windows in the centre, with the left co...

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Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Nov 4, 2021

Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches

Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the  fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...

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Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Oct 21, 2021

Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana

Following a slew of affordable, vintage-inspired watches, with several made by Habring2, Massena Lab has moved decidedly upmarket with the Old School. The time-only wristwatch retains a typical of the American watch-design studio – once again vintage inspired with a sector-like dial – but boasts a significantly more refined finishing. The model name is a play on words – a reference to its classical design but also the watch is meant to evoke a montre d’école, or “school watch” in English, the graduation project of a watchmaking student. Despite the academic inspiration, the Old School is the work of an experienced watchmaker, Luca Soprana, who cofounded Ateliers 7h38, the complication workshop best known for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon. Initial thoughts Massena Lab founder William Rohr is an industry veteran – amongst other things he’s been managing director of Antiquorum Switzerland and consultant to Bonhams – who has cultivated a sharp eye for design an details. Mr Rohr also has a finger on the current pulse of watch collecting, and the Old School unsurprisingly encapsulates what many enthusiasts currently desire. The design and movement feature traditional elements that are popular now. It’s not meant to be an intriguing or creative product – it is old school after all – but instead a simple watch executed well. One element that illustrates Mr Massena’s keen eye is the dial. The simple design has just enough flair to make it attrac...

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INTRODUCING: The IWC x Hot Wheels Racing Works Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition Time+Tide
IWC x Hot Wheels Racing Oct 19, 2021

INTRODUCING: The IWC x Hot Wheels Racing Works Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition

While many people around the world are passionate about watches, they are generally not their sole obsessions. Within our community, many are also enamoured with all manner of other things ranging from whiskey to baseball. But one area of interest that that seems to overlap with watches a great deal is that of motorsports. While … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC x Hot Wheels Racing Works Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R

A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...

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Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 9, 2021

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

With Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale just around the corner, we’re rounding up a half-dozen notable vintage watches from the auction, primarily big-ticket Patek Philippe complications. Amongst them a few oddities, one a Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a perpetual calendar with the moon phase omitted, and the other the Rolex Day-Date with a  “Submariner” dial. With the preview exhibition open daily from now till October 12, the auction will take place on October 13. The catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2265: Patek Philippe ref. 130 The oldest watch of the selection is a Patek Philippe ref. 130, the brand’s first serially-produced wristwatch chronograph that remained in the catalogue for over three decades. The model’s longevity makes it an inevitability that a good number of ref. 130 variants exist. Indeed, the model varies greatly in terms case material and dial design, with some combinations being rarer than others. One such rare combination is a steel case with “sector” dial, like the present example. Made by Wenger, the steel cases of the ref. 130 have shorter and wider-spaced lugs compared to the gold cases that made by Vichet, giving the 33 mm case a more imposing appearance Chronograph wristwatches from that era typically feature tiny counters that sit close to the edge of the dial, leaving the dial clean and distinctly vintage. But the “sector” dial here is an entirely different animal – the sect...

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VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Three Hands Collection refines its offering by going back to basics. Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Three Hands Collection refines Oct 7, 2021

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Three Hands Collection refines its offering by going back to basics.

TAG Heuer looked to strip down their iconic Carrera to the essentials in the early 2000s to create a new entry-level proposition for the larger marketplace. The idea was to maintain the clean lines and aesthetic the collection built its name upon, but in a less complicated and more approachable fashion. Since its introduction decades … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Three Hands Collection refines its offering by going back to basics. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Auction Watch: Enamelled Automaton Masterpieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned Oct 5, 2021

Auction Watch: Enamelled Automaton Masterpieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong Sale is primarily focused on wristwatches, encompassing several unique Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned by Eric Clapton and a dozen examples of early F.P. Journe. But two of the most valuables lots in the auction – and with estimates well into seven-figure US dollar sums – are a pair of museum-quality automata. Made for the Chinese market more than two centuries ago, this pair of objects are tremendously rare and exquisitely decorated in enamel and pearls. Two generations ago, such automata as well as pocket watches were the most respected genre in watch collecting. They were sought after by eminent collectors like the former chairman of HSBC and the German billionaire who was once the fifth-richest man in the world, which is why the record-setting lots in watch auctions of that era were inevitably pocket watches or objects, like the million-dollar Cremsdorff. Almost 400-years old, this pocket watch made by Jehan Cremsdorff sold for £2.175m, or about US$2.734m, including fees, at Sotheby’s in 2019 With the rise of wristwatches as the preeminent collecting category, demand for automata and pocket watches have declined sharply. Now the most expensive timepiece ever sold is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A mega-complication that sold for over US$33 million in 2019. But elaborately enamelled pocket watches are arguably the closest thing to fine art in horology, because of the intrinsic nature of the artisanal dec...

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Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
F.P. Journe has swiftly become one Sep 25, 2021

Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

F.P. Journe has swiftly become one of the most desirable independent watch brands, resulting in an ever growing selection on offer at auction. Perhaps the biggest single offering to date comes by way of Sotheby’s, which has amassed a 13-piece lineup of F.P. Journe watches for its upcoming Important Watches sale that takes place in Hong Kong on October 13, 2021. We round up eight of the most notable, a selection that naturally includes a Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription”, as well as several limited editions, ranging from Ruthenium to a Tokyo-boutique special. The full catalogue and registration to bid are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2085: Octa Réserve de Marche with brass movement Originally the entry-level model for the brand, the Octa Réserve de Marche is today a stealth watch of sorts since it is still a simple watch, but an unusually valuable one. Launched in 2001, the Octa Réserve was part of the original trio of watches launched by Francois-Paul Journe, coming after the tourbillon and Resonance. Despite being the brand’s entry-level wristwatch at the time, it still boasted a proprietary movement with an impressive five-day power reserve, though the running time was originally envision was eight days, hence the “Octa” moniker. The cal. 1300 developed for the Octa Réserve would then go on to be the base movement for the entire Octa collection. The best part of the Octa Reserve is its asymmetric dial. Showing the time, date and power reserve, the d...

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Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein x Manuel Emch x A Cast Of Guest Artists = Amazing (And Affordable) Watches Quill & Pad
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein x Sep 23, 2021

Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein x Manuel Emch x A Cast Of Guest Artists = Amazing (And Affordable) Watches

In 2021 Louis Erard launched its latest Alain Silberstein collaborations, breaking the internet and solidifying the brand’s new direction since 2019. This Triptyque, as Louis Erard calls it, comprises three watches, each limited to 178 pieces. The good news is that these collaborative limited edition watches are all accessibly priced, the bad news is that they sell out quickly. Find out why right here.

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In-Depth: The Unique and Magical Oval Tourbillon Watch by Derek Pratt SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin ever Sep 10, 2021

In-Depth: The Unique and Magical Oval Tourbillon Watch by Derek Pratt

I first met Derek Pratt (1938-2009) at a sale held by Ineichen, a Zürich-based auction house, in 1975. He was in the company of Peter Baumberger (1939-2010), an antique watch dealer and trained watchmaker that took over long-dormant Danish brand Urban Jürgensen & Sonner in 1981 . A contemporary and friend of George Daniels, Derek was a talented English watchmaker who restored many of Baumberger’s outstanding historical pocket watches. Amongst them was then the most complicated Vacheron Constantin ever, the grand complication N°402833 made for King Fuad of Egypt in 1929, which Baumberger bought at auction – the watch was lot 202 at the October 7, 1979 sale at Galerie d’Horlogerie Ancienne (the business founded by Osvaldo Patrizzi that would later become Antiquorum). Baumberger would have trusted no one else other than Derek to restore that watch. In the following years, I visited Derek’s workshop several times with Peter, often in the company of illustrious watch collectors and enthusiasts, all fascinated by Derek’s knowledge of traditional watchmaking and his beautifully equipped workshop. Not long after, Peter recruited Derek to be consultant and technical director at Urban Jürgensen. As such, he was responsible for the company’s greatest technical achievements in pocket watches, which was the leading genre in watch collecting at the time. Derek at work According to Urban Jürgensen records and my personal archive, Derek completed around 34 watches for the...

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First Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Marvel Black Panther Flying Tourbillon Appears At Christie’s Marvel(ous) Auction Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Marvel Aug 26, 2021

First Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Marvel Black Panther Flying Tourbillon Appears At Christie’s Marvel(ous) Auction

Since its launch in April 2021, the watch world has been at odds with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Marvel Black Panther Flying Tourbillon. And while it has polarized opinions, that didn't stop it from selling out quickly. Now Christie's has the first Black Panther up for auction at its online "The Marvelous Sale."

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Only Watch 2021: Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock SJX Watches
Bulgari Jul 11, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock

While named after a late-18th century Swiss watchmaker, Charles Girardier is a startup, having been established in 2018 by Patrick A. Ulm, a Swiss private banker with a passion for watches. The brand focuses on tourbillon wristwatches, but enhanced with elements inspired by vintage Charles Girardier pocket watches, such as paillonnee enamel dials and its whimsical “mysterious” complication. Its Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel won the Ladies’ Complications Watch Prize at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve, beating out competition from big names like Bulgari and Piaget. For Only Watch 2021, Charles Girardier created the 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock, a wristwatch with a figure-of-eight dial layout in grand feu enamel and an unusual automatic movement with a peripheral rotor. Initial thoughts Being relatively young, Charles Girardier only has one model to its name so far, the Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse. Still, it’s a technically interesting watch, making it a useful starting point for an Only Watch edition. The Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse is symmetrical  – both on the front and the back. The dial is arranged in a figure-of-eight, with a flying tourbillon at six, and the “mysterious” complication at twelve. The “mysterious” complication is the brand emblem that spins freely, thanks to a weight on its back that’s hidden under the dial. It gives the dial dynamism, though the “mysterious” complication feels a b...

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Meistersinger Bell Hora Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Meistersinger Bell Hora Hands-On Review Jul 9, 2021

Meistersinger Bell Hora Hands-On Review

Time is precious. So are every moment. Slow down and savour the moment. Take a deep breath. Pause. Accuracy is important but today we place perhaps too much importance on being precise. But time is about moments, rather than each individual second. The moments are what we remember and whilst time shouldn’t be wasted, it should also be lived and enjoyed.  This is the philosophy behind Meistersinger watches. Its singled-handed-ness is designed to help you slow down time, to 5-minute increments, so that you no longer focus on the seconds, and rather, the important moments in your life. The precious moments, the ones that will live on forever. Even the logo of Meistersinger alludes to this: take the time and “pause”. It is indeed the musical symbol/notation for pause and is used to great effect in music. It can be the climax of the piece, it can be where you take a breath, to highlight a point in the music, the storytelling. It can make all the difference in a fast-paced, unrelenting allegro series of semiquavers and staccatos that is today’s lives. Pause. There comes a point in time where rushing is no longer needed nor wanted. Not everything is a race and the charge to the next point is more often than not irrelevant. It doesn’t matter in the grand scheme of things. Yes, punctuality is important but being punctual has nothing to do with rushing and accuracy.  Take the time to admire the surroundings. Look up. Look around. Look deep into something. Look at the wor...

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Highlights: Sotheby’s ‘Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers’ Online Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Jul 6, 2021

Highlights: Sotheby’s ‘Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers’ Online Auction

Sotheby’s latest online sale is in a quirky combination of luxury watches and high-end sneakers – some of which cost more than the watches. Fortunately the large majority of the 164 lots are horological, with a selection of watches that’s diverse and interesting, led by a couple of heavyweight top lots. The heavyweights are quite literal, both complicated watches in platinum from brands widely regarded as benchmarks in contemporary watchmaking: an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with a platinum case and bracelet, along with the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Luminous “Phantom”. The sale also includes more esoteric watches that might be overlooked, including as a retailer-edition Patek Philippe Calatrava with ruby markers, and a Grand Seiko “First” remake in platinum. The Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers auction is live online from now until June 8, 2021. The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available here. Lot 8201 – F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Platinum Introduced in 2004, the F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain was the successor to the original Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. Like the original, the Tourbillon Souverain combined both a tourbillon regulator and constant force mechanism in a quest for accuracy. Its most obvious distinction against its predecessor was the small seconds at six linked to the remontoir mechanism. The Tourbillon Souverain itself was replaced in 2019 by something bigger and vertical, making it increasingly uncomm...

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Baselworld 2022 is back, but does anyone care any more? Time+Tide
Jun 24, 2021

Baselworld 2022 is back, but does anyone care any more?

Just like the Fast and Furious franchise, the Baselworld watch fair is refusing to die. That’s right, Baselworld 2022 is back, but it’s unlikely to be better than ever, or even a shadow of its former self. If you’re just joining the story now, it’s important you know the history behind the slow and agonising … ContinuedThe post Baselworld 2022 is back, but does anyone care any more? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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