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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Reviewed by Tim Mosso: A Machine with Heart and Soul Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 23, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Reviewed by Tim Mosso: A Machine with Heart and Soul

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon lives up to its name. It has a date, a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon. But it has more: this watch has character. Assigning human traits to a cold machine is a – romantic – fool’s errand, but it’s also irresistible in the presence of a masterpiece. A. Lange & Söhne’s warmest watch is more than a machine with a heartbeat. It has soul.

Bulgari “Beyond Time” Exhibition and a Singapore-Exclusive Octo Worldtimer SJX Watches
Bulgari Beyond Time” Exhibition Jul 23, 2025

Bulgari “Beyond Time” Exhibition and a Singapore-Exclusive Octo Worldtimer

Bulgari has just opened Beyond Time in Singapore, which takes place in Paragon Mall from July 18 to August 10, 2025 and is open to the public daily. An exhibition dedicated to the brand’s watches and jewelled timepieces, Beyond Time also marks the launch of the Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60, a limited edition only for Singapore. The exhibition includes the record setting Octo Finissimo complications – some of the thinnest wristwatches ever made – as well as a watchmaking “masterclass” led by a watchmaker from Bulgari’s Neuchâtel manufacture. Singapore National Day The event coincides with Singapore’s 60th year of independence on August 9. For the occasion, Bulgari has created the Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60, a limited edition accented in white and red, the national colours of Singapore, with a case in black DLC-coated steel. Other goodies specific to Singapore’s National Day weekend include postcards by Singaporean artists, and personalised poetry verses. The Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60 is delivered on a pair of straps in red and black Located on the ground floor of the mall, the B-shaped exhibition space is inspired by the work of German architect Mies van der Rohe and his close collaborator, designer Lilly Reich. The exhibits are organised thematically, with the Serpenti and Octo collections each having a space of their own, but the complicated watches are the centrepiece. The complicated watch display showcases the brand’s accomplishments in pushing the bound...

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref Jul 23, 2025

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G

Just launched earlier this year, the Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001 is the latest in a long line of perpetual calendars with retrograde date, dating to 1993 in the modern day and even further with vintage watches. Though essentially identical in terms of function and display, the ref. 6159G is the most modern take on the concept to date, while being entirely improved in terms of the movement and case. The key elements that distinguish the ref. 6159G are the dial and case: the translucent sapphire dial is tinted in grey and black, while the case sports a bezel and case back finished with clous de Paris guilloche. It’s an unusual combination, but appealing overall, although some elements, like the generous dose of lume, feel out of place. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s catalogue is still mostly classically oriented, with watches like the Calatrava ref. 6196P capturing the traditional Patek Philippe style. But the brand has been moving towards a more modern aesthetic. Not all the attempts in the direction have been successful, but the ref. 6159G fortunately manages to do it well. Being modern in flavour also sets the ref. 6159G apart from its predecessors like the ref. 5159. While earlier generations of the retrograde perpetual calendar were fairly evolutionary in style, the ref. 6159G is visually unique. Fundamentally, the ref. 6159G is not exceptionally novel – but it looks good. The hobnail bezel and sapphire dial is a surprising combi...

Owner’s Review: Evolving as a Collector with the Louis Erard Heritage Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Heritage Watch collecting Jul 22, 2025

Owner’s Review: Evolving as a Collector with the Louis Erard Heritage

Watch collecting is filled with stories of love at first sight, which I guess makes sense considering the hobby revolves around looking at watches. Stare at enough stranger’s wrists, browse enough boutiques and partake in enough endless scrolling sessions, and it’s only a matter of time before cupid’s horological arrow strikes. If your watch consumption habits are as excessive as mine, you’ll likely be struck on a regular basis. Knowing when to embrace these moments through distant appreciation and when to splurge by breaking out the credit card is a balancing act that comes down to personal finances and individualized collecting goals. Have stacks of cash and enjoy rotating through dozens of watches? Sounds like a green light to hit that buy button whenever your heart desires. Writing monthly checks for your kid’s extra curricular activities that are high enough to make even your inflated grocery expenses blush? We have plenty of room for you in the strapped for cash parents club, where we maintain concise collections that prioritize frill free practicality over opulence. As a proud member and self-designated ambassador of the latter group, I’ve set a limit of $300 for individual purchases. Yes, it sounds low, and compared with most of the collectors that are likely to appear in your Instagram feed, it is. But armed with patience and a penchant for bargain hunting, it’s really not all that limiting and has allowed me to embrace love at first sight with two B...

Jaquet Droz Surprises with a Unique Dragon Tourbillon SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 22, 2025

Jaquet Droz Surprises with a Unique Dragon Tourbillon

Continuing with its focus on unique, custom-order watches, Jaquet Droz’s latest brings together art, film and watchmaking. Commissioned by an unnamed collector (who presumably loves J.R.R. Tolkien’s tales), the Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe” stands as a fine example of Swiss watchmaker’s ability to blend artistic crafts with technical watchmaking. It reprises an earlier commission that similarly united The Lord of the Rings and Jaquet Droz watchmaking. Initial thoughts Custom-made one-offs are not uncommon in the world of high horology, with collectors regularly commissioning unique timepieces from both independent and established makers. Most of George Daniels’ creations were commissions, as were the ultra-complicated pocket watches delivered by Vacheron Constantin to a certain Mr Berkley. Unlike other brands, however, Jaquet Droz is now largely specialised in custom or bespoke commissions. It also takes a different and unique approach by collaborating with both the client and an artist of the client’s choosing in making wearable pieces of art. Here the artist John Howe, the Canadian illustrator who was responsible for visualising Tolkien’s fantasy world for the novels and later became artistic director of The Lord of the Rings film series. The timepiece reproduces an artwork created by Mr Howe as a large scale painting that was then was adapted to wristwatch format.  Beyond the impressive miniature painting and pedigree of the motif, the watch stands firm...

Interview – TEMPORIS International Awards, Celebrating The Full Spectrum Of Today’s Watchmaking Monochrome
Oris International Awards Celebrating Jul 22, 2025

Interview – TEMPORIS International Awards, Celebrating The Full Spectrum Of Today’s Watchmaking

While some thirty years ago, watchmaking was an industry like any other, generating only moderate interest, it has transformed into a center of interest that today commands sustained and multifaceted attention worldwide. An emotional product and bearer of human genius in a disembodied world, the subject of fiercely contested economic issues, the world of watches […]

Introducing – The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph 40mm in Ocean Green Monochrome
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph 40mm Jul 22, 2025

Introducing – The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph 40mm in Ocean Green

Oris’ beloved Divers Sixty-Five series has been charming fans of laid-back, vintage-inspired dive watches for over a decade now. First revived in 2015 to celebrate the Hölstein-based brand’s iconic 1965 dive watch, this collection has since grown into a full family of neo-retro divers and sporty daily wearers, always blending mid-century charm with modern mechanics. […]

Fratello EDC: Thomas Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From YStudio, Carl Friedrik, Fujifilm, And More Fratello
Jul 22, 2025

Fratello EDC: Thomas Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From YStudio, Carl Friedrik, Fujifilm, And More

When I wrote my Fratello EDC (Everyday Carry) article three years ago, I never expected it to be popular among readers. As it turns out, the Fratelli love to sneak a peek into our bags and pockets. So, by popular demand, we are back with another series about our everyday carry essentials, the stuff we […] Visit Fratello EDC: Thomas Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From YStudio, Carl Friedrik, Fujifilm, And More to read the full article.

Best Watches Under $10,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 21, 2025

Best Watches Under $10,000

Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...

Introducing – A Fresh Splash of Lime Green and Ice Blue for the Armin Strom Orbit Monochrome
Armin Strom Orbit Armin Strom first Jul 21, 2025

Introducing – A Fresh Splash of Lime Green and Ice Blue for the Armin Strom Orbit

Armin Strom first introduced the System 78 series model, the Orbit, in 2022, which became the world’s first watch with an on-demand date display integrated into a ceramic bezel. The original version featured a mostly monochromatic look, a steel case and a black gold dial, accented only by the red date pointer tip and matching […]

Hands-On: the Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Casio nally it also applies Jul 21, 2025

Hands-On: the Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph

I’ve reached the age where I regularly feel the temptation to say things along the lines of “back in the day…” This applies to various things, such as life without smartphones, dial-up modems, and Napster, among others, but occasionally, it also applies to watches. You see, it wasn’t that long ago that things were quite different. Dive watches were all north of 40mm, in-house movements were rare under $5k, microbrands were dismissed as a passing trend, and, most relevantly to this review, mechanical chronographs under a certain price were primarily powered by Valjoux 7750s or a close variant. With sub-dials at 12, 6, and 9, day-dates at three, two-pushers, cam-actuated, and always automatic, approachably priced mechanical chronographs were limited in their design options. Even 3, 6, 9 layouts were rare, powered by 7753s or ETA 2894s, and often limited to Swatch group brands. The point is that in 2025, it’s almost hard to imagine a world of such limited chronograph options. Today, thanks largely to Sellitta, 3, 9, and 3, 6, 9 layouts are typical (I actually miss 12, 6, 9 now), monopushers are no big deal, manual winding is an option, flybacks, GMTs, and even column-wheels are on the table. Simply put, it’s a good time to be a chronograph fan. Yet, even in this golden-age of chronographs (ok, that might be a stretch), there is room to stand out. Enter Albishorn, which launched in 2024 with a series of chronographs powered by a bespoke movement, based on a fun r...

IWC Debuts Pale Blue Ceramic with the “Top Gun” Miramar SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Pale Blue Ceramic Jul 21, 2025

IWC Debuts Pale Blue Ceramic with the “Top Gun” Miramar

IWC continues to grow its line of ceramic-cased pilot’s watches with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar (ref. IW389409). A limited edition of 1,000 pieces unlike most other ceramic models that are regular production, the Miramar joins the pilot’s watches with ceramic cases in white, dark green, dark blue, beige, and of course classic black. For someone who wants the same colour, but for half the price, IWC has also launched the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 with a “Miramar blue” dial and stainless steel case (ref. IW388117) that’s regular production. Initial thoughts The IWC aviator’s watches with ceramic cases are generally appealing, the ceramic cases add a cool factor to an otherwise standard and functional design. But there are now a lot of them in multiple colours. The range of colours feels a little much, especially for a watch that meant to be rooted in aviation instruments. Because of the historical basis of IWC’s pilot’s watch line, the collection has always seemed a bit more serious minded, but the many colours run counter to that. That is, the Miramar itself is a likeable watch. The colour is unusual and fun while also being different. It brings to mind the fashionable shade of baby blue associated with Tiffany & Co., but is clearly different in being darker. And IWC’s build quality is always reliable; the cal. 69380 inside is an industrial workhorse found across the brand’s catalogue. The Miramar is also priced correctly, th...

Introducing – New Gradient Dials for the Rado Captain Cook 39mm Monochrome
Rado Captain Cook 39mm It’s Jul 21, 2025

Introducing – New Gradient Dials for the Rado Captain Cook 39mm

It’s fair to say that genuine horological novelties, in the form of complications and new collections, have given way to a more trend-oriented approach in the watch industry. Riding the wave, many brands revisit popular collections in more compact case dimensions and different materials, treating the dials to seasonal colours. Rado’s Captain Cook, the brand’s […]

A Golden Gift: Redditor Receives Gold Rolex Daytona As A Token Of Gratitude From A Neighbor Fratello
Rolex Daytona As Jul 21, 2025

A Golden Gift: Redditor Receives Gold Rolex Daytona As A Token Of Gratitude From A Neighbor

Here is a quick, feel-good story that shows it’s always important to take care of those around you! A good Samaritan in the United States posted a photo on Reddit with a watch, noting that it was a gift from his neighbor. The neighbor wanted to thank him for all his help. We’ve withheld names […] Visit A Golden Gift: Redditor Receives Gold Rolex Daytona As A Token Of Gratitude From A Neighbor to read the full article.

From The Archives: How The Omega Speedmaster Became The Moonwatch Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Became Jul 21, 2025

From The Archives: How The Omega Speedmaster Became The Moonwatch

On July 21st, 1969, the Apollo 11 crew turned the Omega Speedmaster Professional chronograph into the Moonwatch. It may have actually been one of the first nicknames that a wristwatch ever received. As a watch enthusiast, you’ve probably heard the story of the Moonwatch a thousand times already. However, in case you’re new to watches (or […] Visit From The Archives: How The Omega Speedmaster Became The Moonwatch to read the full article.

Introducing: Two New 39mm Rado Captain Cook Models With A Holiday Vibe Fratello
Rado Captain Cook Models Jul 21, 2025

Introducing: Two New 39mm Rado Captain Cook Models With A Holiday Vibe

Captain James Cook (1728–1779) was a British Royal Navy officer, explorer, and cartographer who made a name for himself with his three voyages of exploration to the Pacific and Southern Oceans between 1768 and 1779 - arduous and hazardous work. The watch named after him was launched in 1962. Since then, numerous models, ranging from […] Visit Introducing: Two New 39mm Rado Captain Cook Models With A Holiday Vibe to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs Omega Jul 20, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange”

Another week, another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we pit two mid-segment dive watches against each other. Although…”mid-segment”? Both brands have crept up in price, putting us in the €6,000–7,500 bracket today. Is that still mid-segment? Whatever you wish to call it, these are two very different watches doing very similar things at a similar […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange” to read the full article.

Catching Up on New Releases from Ming, Wren, Squale, and Doxa Worn & Wound
Doxa Happy Saturday! Dive watch Jul 19, 2025

Catching Up on New Releases from Ming, Wren, Squale, and Doxa

Happy Saturday! Dive watch summer continues – we’ve noticed some fun new divers, all limited editions, come across the transom lately. New water ready releases from Doxa, Wren, and Doxa are profiled below. We’re also spotlight the latest from Ming – while not a diver, it has a stealthiness to it that feels appropriate for the season. Let us know in the comments what you think of these new releases, and what we might have missed. Wren Diver 38 Wren is back with their second watch, the all new Diver 38. The brand, founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, launched last year with the Diver One, and the new piece is a scaled down, and perhaps more refined take on the original concept. The new version of the watch is smaller, coming in at, you guessed it, 38mm, and is just 10.7mm tall (the original was 41mm in diameter and over 13mm thick). The dial has a sandwich style design, in either a gradient seafoam green or aqua colorway. According to Karger, the goal here was to move Wren into a new category that “balances practicality, comfort, and refined execution.”  The Wren Diver 38 is available in date and no-date versions for $1,595. It runs on a ETA  2892 automatic caliber, and has 200 meters of water resistance. It’s mounted to a flat-link, stainless steel bracelet, and the ceramic bezel insert is fully lumed. Another nice touch: the rotor is skeletonized in the shape of a wren. More information on the Wren Diver 38 can be found on the Wren website here. Mi...

Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Jaws 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPL81: Reliving And Overcoming A Childhood Fear Fratello
Seiko Prospex Jaws 50th Anniversary Jul 19, 2025

Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Jaws 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPL81: Reliving And Overcoming A Childhood Fear

Here’s a watch that pays homage not to a shark but the shark. And that’s why “we’re gonna need a bigger boat.” I was too young to see the now-iconic Steven Spielberg movie Jaws when it came out five decades ago, but when I did a few years after its initial release, it scared me. Although […] Visit Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Jaws 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPL81: Reliving And Overcoming A Childhood Fear to read the full article.

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Thomas’s Favorites From Doxa, Zenith, And Nomos Fratello
Zenith Jul 19, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Thomas’s Favorites From Doxa, Zenith, And Nomos

I cannot believe it has already been a full year since I last published my favorite summer watches. Time flies when you’re having fun! While I am often one of the first to submit my list articles, this year, I am one of the last writers to submit my summer watch picks. Why? Well, it’s […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Thomas’s Favorites From Doxa, Zenith, And Nomos to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Breitling Top Time B31 Worn & Wound
Breitling Top Time B31 Jul 18, 2025

Hands-On: the Breitling Top Time B31

By all accounts, Breitling seems to be experiencing a renaissance moment thanks to a few strong back-to-back years. Inspiration from its historical archives, contemporary trend chasing, strategic brand ambassadors, and strong culture building with storytelling elements have culminated in a change of perception in the budding enthusiast. Not too long ago, the common discourse surrounding Breitling was one of a brand that had lost its way. Now, though, they seem to have successfully flipped the script and reestablished their offerings as genuine contenders in every category of the luxury market. This year, in particular, the enthusiast market has been quick to heap praise upon each new release in stark contrast to previous release cycles. Of those new releases, the new Breitling Top Time B31 stood out to me as one that warranted a deeper discussion and full hands-on review.  Part of a larger marketing push, Breitling took the opportunity to showcase three large pieces of information. First, dreamboat Austin Butler had signed on as the latest brand ambassador, clad in vintage motorcycle and mechanics attire. Second, a new collection of Top Time models would be available soon in a three-hand configuration, styled with a new design language. Third and finally, those Top Time watches would be powered by the new automatic B31 movement. While the origins of that movement are still somewhat debated, it marks a significant push by Breitling to update its entire movement lineup whil...