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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Hands On: the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer and Hydrotimer Worn & Wound
Dec 5, 2023

Hands On: the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer and Hydrotimer

I have long believed and said before, on this site and elsewhere, that we are living in the golden age of being a watch enthusiast. As time has passed, the quantity and quality of selection at accessible price points is remarkable. Alongside the influx of collectors are new brands catering to every taste and budget, and therein lies the challenge: how do watch companies stand out and make lasting names for themselves with tool watches in the crowded sub-thousand dollar segment? Texas-based (Dallas represent!) Jack Mason claims to have answers with two of its most prominent models, the travel-ready Strat-o-timer GMT and more recently-released Hydrotimer dive watch. A closer look and hands on provide clues to how these references can set themselves apart from one another and their competition today. Cases and Bracelets In a clever move, Jack Mason has decided to utilize the original Strat-o-timer case as the foundation for the Hydrotimer. The turtle-esque cushion style cases measure 40mm wide, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 13mm thick with screw-down crowns. Beyond the obvious economic and manufacturing benefits of sharing a case, this allows the brand to have a recognizable and consistent silhouette across its product lines. Initial impressions of the cases and bracelets are that they are substantial and are of high and obvious quality, especially for the price. In particular, the edges between the brushed and polished surfaces of the case are well-defined and well done. The toleranc...

Introducing – The Sarpaneva Midnight Sun, Revealing Itself at Night Monochrome
Sarpaneva Dec 5, 2023

Introducing – The Sarpaneva Midnight Sun, Revealing Itself at Night

The most Scandinavian of independent watchmakers, Stepan Sarpaneva, is in a category all his own … His complex and ultra-detailed watches have always been deeply personal and unique; some even featured his face on the so-called Sarpaneva Moonface. While remaining faithful to the original design cues of Sarpaneva, his recent pieces reveal his desire to reconnect […]

DOXA Adds Some Elegant Touches to their Iconic Dive Watch with the Sub 300β Worn & Wound
Doxa Adds Some Elegant Touches Dec 5, 2023

DOXA Adds Some Elegant Touches to their Iconic Dive Watch with the Sub 300β

DOXA has recently announced the release of the all new Sub 300β, a reimagining of their classic dive watch. Coming in five colorways, the latest iteration of the Sub 300β will catch the eye of those unfamiliar with the brand, while reiterating why DOXA has sustained a cult-like following for nearly the entirety of its 130-year history. To understand the 300β, let’s first look back at the history of the Sub line. In 1967, DOXA revolutionized professional diving watches with the introduction of the SUB concept, the first mainstream model of its kind. Water-resistant to 300 meters, it featured a groundbreaking unidirectional rotating bezel with dual dive time and depth indications, incorporating the US Navy’s no-decompression dive tables. The iconic orange dial set it apart and became synonymous with underwater exploration, even catching the attention of Jacques-Yves Cousteau, who secured exclusive distribution rights for the SUB 300 in the USA. In 1969, DOXA continued its innovation with the SUB 300T Conquistador, introducing the helium release valve (HRV). Designed for saturation diving, the HRV allows trapped helium to escape during decompression, preventing pressure build-up and potential damage to the watch. This marked another pioneering move by DOXA in ensuring the durability and functionality of their timepieces in the most challenging underwater environments. Now, available today, the new 300β has taken this history as a jumping-off point for the brand to rei...

Review: Christopher Ward’s The Twelve 36MM (and 40MM) Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s Dec 4, 2023

Review: Christopher Ward’s The Twelve 36MM (and 40MM)

Last month, I had the opportunity to put together a list of the three watches I would choose for a collection if I had a budget of $5,000. Though I stand by my choices, selected through detailed research and great care, I have one small confession to make: none of those watches had ever graced my wrist. Fearing the imaginary cries of “j’accuse!” lest my secret be discovered, I tried on one of the three at a local authorized dealer within the week. This second opportunity was graciously made possible by the editors at Worn & Wound. I’m two for three now, so thus begins a personal journey predetermined by the Horological Fates. For this review, I lived a full day in the life with The Twelve. Two of these were the highly anticipated 36mm reference – one on the classic integrated bracelet, and the other on the rubber strap option. I also sampled the 40mm stainless steel reference on the bracelet in order to properly compare them. My wrist circumference, for reference, is about 5.75 inches. Christopher Ward’s goal in this 36mm launch was greater inclusivity towards women and other smaller-wristed folks, and I’m uniquely situated to consider both sizing options from this perspective. Each watch spent a day (or more) on wrist, so I was able to assess my true feelings towards them after the immediate New Watch Glee wore off. As a newbie reviewer, one helpful piece of advice I received was to pay attention to first impressions, and run with that if it felt right. Whil...

Hands-on – The Purple-Coloured Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two Monochrome
Bovet Dec 4, 2023

Hands-on – The Purple-Coloured Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two

Established in 1822, Bovet emerged as a prominent player in the high-end timepiece industry. Throughout the 19th century, Bovet became one of the most distinguished names in China, crafting opulent pocket watches adorned with lavish enamels and embellished with pearls. This distinctive, ornate aesthetic has transcended time and echoes in the contemporary Bovet timepieces, a […]

Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch Monochrome
Universal Genève Dec 4, 2023

Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch

While the Polerouter by Universal Genève has long been a favourite watch among collectors, its extensive production in various executions has made it accessible for enthusiasts to discover rare or low-production models. However, with the rising popularity of the watch among new collectors, the landscape is evolving, and the thirst for information is growing. To […]

Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1 Worn & Wound
Ressence Brings Some Color Dec 4, 2023

Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1

In the big wide world of watches, there is nothing quite like a Ressence. The Belgium-based brand has made its name through futuristic designs that utilize co-planar revolving discs and other dial elements to create a cohesive and interesting time-telling experience. In the brand’s lineup, the Type 1 Round is positioned as the foundation and the most distilled vision of what Ressence stands for. The new Type 1° M, however, reveals a playful side that has not been seen before. Out with the staid black and gray tones for which the brand has been so well known for; it’s time for some color. The Type 1 Round’s case is, well, round, and measures 42.7mm wide, 47mm lug to lug, and 11mm thick. It is made of Grade 5 Titanium and does away with a traditional crown (more on winding in a moment). The dial is in the classic Ressence regulator style and displays days, hours, minutes, and seconds. Without a number in sight, which is which? On this multi-colored version it’s a little easier to ascertain: the blue chapter ring along the edge of the dial marks the seconds while the green dial tracks the hours. Yellow is for running seconds, and the red segmented ring marks the days of the week with the two outlined sections representing the weekend. Under the hood, Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS) enables the modules for the hours, minutes, seconds, and days to continuously revolve around one another. The movement is based on a (heavily) modified ETA-2892 and runs...

Introducing – The Hanhart Red X Grey & Blue Flyback Chronograph and Dashboard Stopwatch Twin-Set Monochrome
Dec 4, 2023

Introducing – The Hanhart Red X Grey & Blue Flyback Chronograph and Dashboard Stopwatch Twin-Set

Hanhart is famous for its Flieger chronographs, historic pilot watches with a red pusher to prevent pilots from accidentally zeroing the stop time. However, Hanhart is also renowned for its stopwatches. In fact, Johann Hanhart started life in Switzerland in 1882 as a manufacturer of stopwatches before relocating to Germany in 1902, where his son, […]

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Dec 4, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon

Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: John Woo Returns to Hollywood, Winter Coats Fit for the Ice Planet Hoth, and the Mad Max: Furiosa Trailer Worn & Wound
Dec 2, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: John Woo Returns to Hollywood, Winter Coats Fit for the Ice Planet Hoth, and the Mad Max: Furiosa Trailer

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com John Woo Returns to Hollywood Image via The New Yorker John Woo, for fans of action films, is a legend. His Face/Off, starring John Travolta and Nicolas Cage, is an endlessly quotable 1990s classic that still holds up today, and his early Hong Kong films like The Killer and Hard-Boiled set a template that action oriented filmmakers have been following for years, even if they can never quite duplicate Woo’s unique style. Now, after a long period of making movies abroad, he’s back with his Hollywood production in years. Silent Night is a dialogue free revenge drama, and the trailer would seem to indicate we’re dealing with vintage Woo here, with plenty of slow-mo, elaborate chase sequences, and what appear to be wildly complex set pieces. In this New Yorker interview, Woo discusses his deep interest in genre filmmaking, how he’s been influenced by everything from Clint Eastwood to martial arts films, and of course his latest endeavor. It’s worth a read for anyone who’s ever quoted Face/Off.  A First Look at the “Fallout” TV Series Image Courtesy Vanity Fair “Fallout,”...

New: Lang & Heyne’s “Manufaktur Edition” of the Anton Model Deployant
Lang & Heyne Dec 2, 2023

New: Lang & Heyne’s “Manufaktur Edition” of the Anton Model

The most striking feature of the Manufaktur Edition is the flying tourbillon with a twist. The lower section of the dial opens up, offering a unique perspective. Peer through the dial, past the tourbillon cage, and capture a lateral glimpse into the heart of the tourbillon. The rehaut functions as a mirror, enabling enthusiasts to scrutinize the intricate mechanics and finesse of the tourbillon.

The Aquastar Benthos Returns As The Heritage One Limited Edition Two Broke Watch Snobs
Dec 1, 2023

The Aquastar Benthos Returns As The Heritage One Limited Edition

With more than a few releases under their belt since the brand's formal re-launch in 2020, Aquastar has had our attention for a while now. They currently offer a mix of faithful re-editions as well as new models inspired by previous designs. But so far, dive watch nerds have been curious about another Aquastar diver lurking deep within the shadows of dive watch history.

G-Shock Goes Lightweight with the Carbon Edition SJX Watches
Dec 1, 2023

G-Shock Goes Lightweight with the Carbon Edition

G-Shock commemorates the 40th anniversary of its shock-resistant digital timepiece, two new models inspired by the original 1983 design penned by Kikuo Ibe, but in an all-new material for the brand. Made entirely from carbon composite – case and bracelet – the Carbon Edition is significantly lighter than its Full Metal counterparts. Available in shades of marbled purple or classic black, the Carbon Edition weighs just 65 g including the bracelet. Initial thoughts G-Shock successfully evolved its iconic digital timepiece into a fashion accessory with a prominent presence in popular culture. Collaborators that have designed their take on the G-Shock range from artist Takashi Murakami to streetwear label Supreme. And in 2018, the brand introduced the G-Shock Full Metal, a modern take on original G-Shock DW-5000 of 1983 that added an integrated bracelet to the original design. Dozens of Full Metal variants have been introduced in a relatively short span – including an extraordinary all-18k gold version – diminishing the novelty and appeal the concept.  The Carbon Edition is essentially a Full Metal but fortunately not metal, instead it is entirely in carbon composite. Though the use of a carbon composite is not revolutionary, this iteration sets itself apart, both in tactile feel and appearance. Both versions are lightweight, and the purple version is striking. The material does bring with it questions of longevity as carbon composites are not as robust as metal allo...

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce Dec 1, 2023

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack”

Rumours of a brown ceramic Royal Oak began circulating several months ago, and the latest launch from Audemars Piguet (AP) has proven them true. However, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” 41 mm is more than a new colour, and instead it’s a 200-piece limited edition collaboration with American Rapper Travis Scott and his streetwear label Cactus Jack. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is interesting for being more than just a change of dial colour, which is usually the route taken for limited editions. While it is based on the standard model, the “Cactus Jack” gets a brown ceramic case as well as typography based on the musician’s handwriting on the dial, along with Cactus Jack’s smiley emblem for the moons. Notably, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is just one part of AP’s collaboration with Mr Scott. Their tie-up also includes a line of clothing, including hoodies, t-shirts, and caps, that will be available on Cactus Jack’s own retail site. Initial thoughts Although the “Cactus Jack” is fundamentally identical to the regular production skeleton perpetual in ceramic, it looks strikingly different because of the case. Typically I am not a fan of brown ceramic, but here the material sets the watch apart instantly. This differentiation is a good thing since there are many, many version of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar – the non-skeleton ceramic model is already available in b...

First Look – The Travis Scott x AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” Brown Ceramic Monochrome
Audemars Piguet s recent history No Nov 30, 2023

First Look – The Travis Scott x AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” Brown Ceramic

Collaborations and watches inspired by pop and street culture are, without a doubt, an important part of Audemars Piguet‘s recent history. No other brand on the haute horlogerie scene has fostered such creative synergies with different universes. Sport, pop culture, art, fashion and entertainment… It looks at things from a different perspective, like it or […]

Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko manages Nov 30, 2023

Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps”

When it comes to deciding on a new watch, I know I think about all the usual suspects: build quality, fit and finish, movement, and most importantly (for me anyway) is the look. In my conversations with other enthusiasts, brand heritage has also come up. But what happens if you’re looking at brands who are not old enough to have years of heritage? Well, I would argue that it’s important to discern what that brand stands for – their ethos.  $1185 Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps” Case Stainless steel Movement Soprod Newton Dial Red Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 30 meters Dimensions 38 x 46.8mm Thickness 11mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $1185 Buci, established in 2022 out of Paris, has a soul that is super-charged with poetry. Brand owner Nousseïma Baraket is both a poet and avid reader of poetry, on top of being filled with a love for horology. If you stop to think about it, our passion for watches is not without romance and poetry. Afterall, we willingly wear some of the smallest engine turning ecosystems in the world on our wrists, knowing full well that time is kept better on our phones and computers. We don’t need them, but our lives are enriched by their presence.  At this point we all know that watches have different stories to tell. Studio Underd0g lets us know that we can have fun with our classic watch designs. Grand Seiko manages to capture the nuances of nature in their dials. Buci oversees the integrat...

Shinola Introduces the Bronze Monster GMT, with a Brown Fumé Dial Worn & Wound
Omega s “Nekton” Seamaster Nov 30, 2023

Shinola Introduces the Bronze Monster GMT, with a Brown Fumé Dial

One of the most interesting developments in the collector community over the past few years is the emergence of Shinola, and their acceptance in enthusiast circles. It’s no secret that Shinola hasn’t always been widely praised by the most discerning and hardcore enthusiasts, but a series of more restrained releases (along with some that are just the right level of wacky – remember the square cased, yellow dialed Mackinac yacht timer?) has bought them some goodwill with new audiences. A new GMT in bronze would seem to capitalize on multiple trends in the enthusiast simultaneously.  Part of the Monster collection, the aptly named Bronze Monster is a 40mm GMT equipped sports watch with a robust appearance and 100 meters of water resistance. The aesthetic feels aviation inspired, which makes sense given the GMT complication, although unfortunately this is a “caller” style GMT without an independently set local hour hand (it runs on a Sellita SW 330). Still, it’s attractive, and feels lush in bronze with a matching brown fumé dial. Fence post hands oversized Arabic numerals reveal that legibility was of primary importance to the design team on this reference.  The case has gentle, curvy lines at the lugs, and the key visual impression of the Bronze Monster outside the dial is the 24 hour bezel, also in bronze, with numerals in relief. It’s a striking look that reminds me of watches that the collector community has praised, like Omega’s “Nekton” Seamaster ...