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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Inside Akrivia’s Enamel Workshop in Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe consider enamel Jul 4, 2025

Inside Akrivia’s Enamel Workshop in Geneva

The world of Swiss watchmaking is a small one; everyone seems to know everyone. This is especially true among the exclusive ranks of enamellers. In total, there are about 120 practicing enamellers in Switzerland, largely concentrated in Geneva, which has been a leading hub for fine enamelling for more the 400 years. Of these, four artisans have recently taken up residence at Émailleurs de la Cité (EC) in Geneva’s Old Town. A newly established enamel workshop founded by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia and Florent Olivier Martin, EC crafts a small number of grand feu enamel dials annually for Mr Rexhepi’s own watches and for select clients like Biver. Though recently opened, the workshop has the feel of a mature and highly organised operation, benefiting from the obvious experience of the staff – Mr Martin was formerly the production director at the respected dial specialist Olivier Vaucher – and the attention to detail for which Mr Rexhepi is known. The enamel workshop is a fitting addition to his growing empire, and is conveniently located just steps away from Akrivia’s watchmaking atelier on Grand-Rue, the picturesque cobblestone thoroughfare that runs through the Old Town. The hand-engraved gratté pattern is applied personally by Mr Rexhepi. The art of enamel Brands like Patek Philippe consider enamel a “rare handcraft”, and for good reason. While industrial groups like the Swatch Group seem to have largely mastered the production of quality enamel dials at (v...

Introducing – The New Moritz Grossmann GMT now with Guilloché Dials Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Jul 4, 2025

Introducing – The New Moritz Grossmann GMT now with Guilloché Dials

As a brand that takes great pride in the pursuit of Schönstes Deutsches Handwerk, translated as “the most beautiful German craftsmanship,” Moritz Grossmann is home to exquisite handcrafted dials. Giving old-school decorative techniques a contemporary twist, Grossmann proposes two new versions of its practical traveller’s GMT watch with hand-guilloché dials in lush summer colours. Moritz […]

We hosted two Blancpain events 17,000 kilometres apart, filling out both the London and Melbourne Discovery Studios Time+Tide
Blancpain events 17,000 kilometres apart Jul 4, 2025

We hosted two Blancpain events 17,000 kilometres apart, filling out both the London and Melbourne Discovery Studios

After years of fan feedback asking for more versatile sizing in the Fifty Fathoms collection, Blancpain took just a few months to make that reality, though it undoubtedly took years of product development. First came the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42, with all the features you know and love from the 45mm model, but carefully downsized … ContinuedThe post We hosted two Blancpain events 17,000 kilometres apart, filling out both the London and Melbourne Discovery Studios appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Tudor, Doxa, Citizen, And More Fratello
Citizen Jul 4, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Tudor, Doxa, Citizen, And More

It’s Friday, so it’s time for another list. Last week, we kicked off the series of lists looking back at the best releases of the first half of 2025. This week, it’s time for the second installment of the series. For this list, we picked our five favorite dive watches that were released between January […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Tudor, Doxa, Citizen, And More to read the full article.

Strapped In: Field Testing the Matador Equipment GlobeRider35 Worn & Wound
Jul 3, 2025

Strapped In: Field Testing the Matador Equipment GlobeRider35

While Matador might have started with a simple pocket blanket, they’ve grown into a full-fledged travel accessory powerhouse. With the GlobeRider45 pack earning some serious praise, Matador heard the cries for a slightly smaller pack and created the GlobeRider35. Heavily inspired by the original 45L, the new 35L retains the same travel-inspired DNA and features while also being more carry-on compliant, a combination that’s sure to make this pack quite popular. Let’s face it: traveling, especially flying, can be stressful. Whether you’re just bringing along the essentials or traveling with any type of content-creating kit, safely bringing your items along for the journey can feel like a monumental task, one that Matador hopes to help solve. Notable Specs and Features Given the GlobeRider’s size and internal layout, this pack would be fantastic for those who want to travel without a checked bag, something I often dream about, but have yet to do with the various photography gear I typically need to bring carry-on with me. With 35 liters of capacity, the Globerrider 35 is aimed at those week-ish long trips, but could certainly be utilized for longer adventures if you make time for a laundromat. Available in three distinct colorways, my personal favorite is the Garnet as it’s unique enough to stand out, without being so bold that I feel like a walking traffic cone. When it comes to the materials used, Matador has incorporated some of the best-known component manufac...

Tissot PRX Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Jul 3, 2025

Tissot PRX Chronograph Review

The Tissot PRX Chronograph is one of the latest releases from the Tissot PRX collection, one of the Swiss brand’s major success stories of the past decade despite its relatively recent introduction (or, more accurately, re-introduction) to the market. Engaging the 21st-Century watch-aficionado zeitgeist with its crowd-pleasing combination of classical sport-luxury design, intriguing colorways, and accessible price points, the Tissot PRX has grown from a handful of models to become a modern pillar of the 170-year-old brand’s sprawling and diverse portfolio, adding the first chronograph models to the growing lineup in 2022.  Tissot PRX Origins It all started with the original Tissot PRX watch, which debuted in 1978 and which, like many watches from that era, was powered by a quartz movement. The PRX was distinguished by its flat, barrel-shaped, multi-faceted case, which integrated smoothly into a flexible, articulated steel bracelet; it took its three-initial model name from its attributes: the “P” and “R” stand for “precise” and “robust,”respectively, and the “X” is actually a Roman numeral “10” depicting the model’s 10 atmospheres (aka 100 meters) of water resistance. The overall aesthetic was one that today’s watch historians will readily recognize, hearkening back to the groundbreaking design of a much pricier watch that had debuted several years earlier, in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.  The latter had, in fact, exerted influence...

The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Returns with an Appetite and a Tourbillon Worn & Wound
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Jul 3, 2025

The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Returns with an Appetite and a Tourbillon

Many watches are designed to perform specific tasks or serve specific purposes beyond telling the time. Divers have bold markers and ratcheting bezels, pilot watches are oversized and might include a second time zone, track watches feature chronographs or tachymeters, etc, and then, there’s the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eaters. Featuring a giant eyeball for the hour hand, a spinning set of teeth for the seconds, and a double-sided arm that’s giving a one-finger salute, they don’t seek to fulfill a practical purpose. Instead, I’d classify them as “memento absurdum,” which is to say, objects that remind you of the absurdity, whether in life or watch collecting. If you’re thinking, “Now, wait a second, didn’t they just come out with a new Time Eater like a few days ago?” you’d be correct. A 42mm model with a navy blue chapter ring and a darker silver than previous versions, it was a handsome, if iterative, addition. But the Time-Eater is back once again, this time with a substantial change: it now has a tourbillon. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen Louis Erard use a tourbillon movement, specifically the “affordable for a tourbillon” BCP T02 by Olivier Mory, which appeared on a few of their Alain Silberstein collabs. The Time-Eater Tourbillon (TET from here out) is basically a reedition of one of the first two Time-Eaters, which was initially introduced in either a 39mm case with a purple chapter ring, or a 42mm case with a green ch...

Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic Fratello
Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Jul 3, 2025

Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic

Timing is everything when it comes to surfing and buying limited-edition watches. That’s doubly true when it comes to buying a surf-themed LE timepiece. So stop slacking and pay attention because here’s the Zenith × Time & Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic. This is the third and final “Surfer” limited edition, and Zenith […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Fam Al Hut Mark 1 Möbius - A Debut That’s Worth Your Attention Fratello
Armin Strom s Jul 3, 2025

Hands-On With The Fam Al Hut Mark 1 Möbius - A Debut That’s Worth Your Attention

If you’ve read my writing for any length of time, you’ll know I’ve got a soft spot for independents - the Urwerks, WRK Timepieces, and Armin Stroms of the world. These are the brands that, in my opinion, tend to push the envelope and take risks that most others wouldn’t. It was through a mutual […] Visit Hands-On With The Fam Al Hut Mark 1 Möbius - A Debut That’s Worth Your Attention to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Rado Captain Cook x Tennis Limited Edition Monochrome
Rado Captain Cook x Tennis Jul 3, 2025

Introducing – The New Rado Captain Cook x Tennis Limited Edition

Rado’s long-standing connection with tennis has inspired a rich catalogue of special-edition timepieces that celebrate the sport in style. Over the years, the brand has released collectable models that nod to various facets of tennis culture through subtle design cues, commemorative engravings, and visual touches. From the 1998 DiaMaster ATP Tour and Roland Garros editions […]

Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €5,000 In 2025 Fratello
Jul 3, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €5,000 In 2025

This week on Fratello Talks, we’re looking at some of the best watches under €5,000 in 2025. The last time that Daan, Thomas, and Nacho discussed favorites was a few weeks ago. Back then, they discussed their favorites in the sub-€2.5k price bracket. Today, they’re upping the ante and doubling the maximum price. This opens up […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Under €5,000 In 2025 to read the full article.

Meet the Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2025 Lead Sponsors Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen Jul 2, 2025

Meet the Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2025 Lead Sponsors

The Windup Watch Fair is returning to Chicago from Friday, July 11th through Sunday, July 13th, and it’s shaping up to be another unforgettable weekend celebrating all things watches, gear, and community. Hosted in the heart of the West Loop at Venue West, this 2025 fair continues our 10th anniversary tour and will once again be free and open to the public. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just getting into the hobby, Windup offers an approachable, hands-on experience with dozens and dozens of incredible brands from around the world. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 11 – Sunday, July 13, 2024 Venue West 221 N Paulina St Chicago, IL 60612 Free and open to the public. To get you warmed up, here’s a look at standout timepieces from our Lead Sponsors, namely: Atelier Wen, Casio, Christopher Ward, Citizen, and Oris, that you’ll most definitely want to see in person. Atelier Wen – Perception Artistry meets engineering in the Perception, Atelier Wen’s flagship model that fuses traditional Chinese craftsmanship with modern horology. Its hand-engraved guilloché dial ,crafted in collaboration with master artisans in China, is unlike anything else in its price range. Powered by the in-house SL1588 micro-rotor movement, the Perception is bold, elegant, and unapologetically different. See the finishing for yourself under the lights of the Windup showroom. Casio – G-SHOCK MTGB4000 Tough just got sleeker. Casio’s MTGB4000 is the latest evolution in G-SHOCK...

Paul Newman Rolex Daytona: The World's Most Valuable Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jul 2, 2025

Paul Newman Rolex Daytona: The World's Most Valuable Watch

If you are into watches and watch collecting, you have heard of the “Paul Newman Rolex,” have heard of it spoken of with reverence and awe, and have perhaps even longed to possess or at least see one yourself. But how did this watch - a very specific version of the Rolex Daytona - become the celebrity watch of all celebrity watches, as well as the né plus ultra representing the absolute highest echelon of watch connoisseurship? It’s a story of watch marketing savvy and market serendipity that spans the globe from Geneva to Daytona, from Cleveland to Hollywood. Rolex was riding a hot streak of successes in the 1950s and early ‘60s. The Swiss company had already introduced to the market the definitive luxury divers’ watch, the Submariner; the quintessential luxury travel watch, the GMT-Master; and even an understated, rugged outdoor watch, the Explorer, that became a star in its one right by virtue of its role in the historic summit of Mount Everest. The one popular category that Rolex had yet to really crack was the emerging genre of motorsport-inspired wrist chronographs, an area in which brands like Heuer (today’s TAG Heuer), Longines, and Breitling had a substantial head start. Rolex boldly jumped into the fray, introducing its first “pre-Daytona” wristwatch chronograph, Ref. 6234, in 1955, and its successor, Ref. 6238, in 1962. Both were 36mm steel watches outfitted with manually wound Valjoux 72 calibers, and both had dials that read simply “Chro...

Typsim Makes Watches for the True Watch Nerd Worn & Wound
Jul 2, 2025

Typsim Makes Watches for the True Watch Nerd

Typsim, the Seattle based brand run by Matt Zinski, has been on my radar since the spring of 2023, when I met Matt at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco. Typsim was not exhibiting at this show, but that’s frankly sometimes my favorite way to meet a brand owner. The young, hungry brands that show up just to be there, and maybe don’t have a fully baked idea quite yet, are sometimes the most interesting ones to track.  To be fair, I think Typsim was pretty well baked by the time I found out about them – my lack of knowledge before 2023 can be chalked up to my own blind spots and the simple fact that nobody can keep up with everything. Matt’s background is in architecture, and the stated goal of his brand is to create watches with a clarity of design and thoughtfulness that you’d associate with a well conceived building. The first watch he showed me that day in San Francisco was the diver, called simply the 200M, which honestly felt like a fairly generic (though very well made) vintage inspired dive watch, except for one thing: it makes use of an exclusive lume compound that promises to patina with time.  That little detail has been stuck in my head ever since, and I think it unlocks something about the appeal of the brand. Matt is both a genuine watch nerd and a true tinkerer, someone willing to experiment and shoot for details that, realistically, only matter to a very small handful of super nerds, like me, and like Matt, and, I’m sure, like his customers. ...

Interview – Jérôme Lambert on his Comeback as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, His Plans and The Collectibles Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre His Plans Jul 2, 2025

Interview – Jérôme Lambert on his Comeback as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, His Plans and The Collectibles

I have known Jérôme Lambert for longer than I want to admit. The man started his watchmaking career right there, at La Grande Maison, or the Watchmaker of Watchmakers. Lambert has already been CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre from 2002 to 2013, and he left his mark on the brand. Strong collections, focus on complications and high-end […]

Greubel Forsey’s Balancier Contemporain Exits with a Steel Final Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey s Balancier Contemporain Exits Jul 2, 2025

Greubel Forsey’s Balancier Contemporain Exits with a Steel Final Edition

Greubel Forsey bids farewell to what was once its smallest watch, the Balancier Contemporain, with a final edition in stainless steel with a blue dial. The brand aims to finish the run of 33 watches later this year, after which the Balancier Contemporain will be no more, marking the end of its just-under-40 mm case. Notably, this is not a move away from mid-sized watches; in fact, the brand intends to double down on them with future launches. Initial Thoughts When launched in 2019, the Balancier Contemporain was the Greubel Forsey’s smallest watch – relatively speaking. The brand’s quality may be irreproachable, but wearability is another matter – several of its watches are well over 44 mm – and as consumers’ tastes gravitate back to mid-sized watches, Greubel Forsey was arguably in a tricky position with its near pocket-watch-sized calibres. But the brand was prepared for that. Just last year, Greubel Forsey set a new direction with the Nano Foudroyante EWT, a flyback chronograph (and flying tourbillon with lightning seconds) that was just under 38 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm thick. And even before that, the Convexe sports model cases already helped wearability massively – I’d even say the nominally larger Balancier Convexe and Double Balancier Convexe wear better than the Balancier Contemporain. So while the Balancier Contemporain is still a great watch, I’m not sad to see it go. As Greubel Forsey transitions to small-diameter watches, I expect to see it...

Introducing – Art Deco-Inspired, Europe-Only Cartier Tank Américaine in Platinum Monochrome
Cartier Tank Américaine Jul 2, 2025

Introducing – Art Deco-Inspired, Europe-Only Cartier Tank Américaine in Platinum

Cartier has consistently excelled in creating unconventional-shaped watch cases, beginning with the Santos Dumont and followed by the iconic Tank. Louis Cartier’s unusual source of inspiration for the cult 1917 Tank watch was a WWI armoured vehicle. Admiring the geometry of the Renault tank from above, Cartier adapted the lines of the armoured vehicle to […]

Hands-On With The Summery Vero Open Water 38 In Off-White And Emergency Yellow Fratello
Jul 2, 2025

Hands-On With The Summery Vero Open Water 38 In Off-White And Emergency Yellow

Straight off the bat, I want to be upfront and let you know that these watches have sold out since they were first announced last year. So why do a review? It’s quite simple. The two Vero Open Water 38 models are the perfect opportunity to get a feel for the watches from the young […] Visit Hands-On With The Summery Vero Open Water 38 In Off-White And Emergency Yellow to read the full article.

Tudor Pelagos FXD: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jul 1, 2025

Tudor Pelagos FXD: The Complete Guide

When Tudor released the Pelagos FXD in late 2021 an important element of the brand's heritage was brought to light with it. A rich history of working with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, was now being tied to a modern creation from Tudor in a new partnership. While the history brings an unusual depth to this watch (no pun intended), it’s the manner in which the Tudor Pelagos FXD has been executed that has made it truly interesting to a modern audience. This wasn’t a throwback design commemorating the past. Rather, this was a function-forward, modern design, built to spec for a niche group of divers in the French Navy. The FXD is a natural evolution of the Pelagos ethos, and its slightly unconventional approach has cemented its place in the hearts of many enthusiasts.  Tudor took a slightly different route with the FXD when compared to the existing Pelagos references. The watch was designed with input from the Marine Nationale’s Commando Hubert unit in order to better suit its combat divers' needs for a specific maneuver they employed while traversing underwater. This maneuver would have them swimming segments in a set direction for a set period of time, before adjusting time and direction to tackle subsequent sections. To better assist in this exercise, the fully indexed bezel is bidirectional, and counts down rather than tracks elapsed time. This allows for fast, precise movement (this is a 120-click bezel), and no ambiguity when measuring a pre-set lengt...

Hanhart Introduces New Versions of the ES 415 Chronograph at a Launch Event in their Historic Factory Worn & Wound
Jul 1, 2025

Hanhart Introduces New Versions of the ES 415 Chronograph at a Launch Event in their Historic Factory

Last week, Hanhart invited 60 guests to their workshop in Gütenbach, located in the Black Forest region of Germany. The schedule for the day was packed, beginning with a factory tour, an 8 kilometers long Black Forest hike, a Hanhart Museum tour, and finally the unveiling of two new 415 ES chronographs.  Felix Wallner and Simon Hall, co-managing directors of Hanhart, guided us through the factory and museum tour. The Gütenbach workshop opened in 1934 as the second production facility for Hanhart. It is now their only manufacturing location. It is impressive that this workshop has been in continuous production since 1934. There is a sense of authenticity, and you can almost taste the oil accumulated over eight decades.  Simon took us to the first floor where the raw parts are made. Hanhart is in a unique position as a watch company since they manufacture mechanical and quartz stopwatches along with wrist watches. The machines are from the 1960s, but according to Simon, they outperform the modern machines in terms of repairs and total cost of ownership. These machines are used for making pinions, wheels, mainplates, and more. Hanhart manufactures 90% of the parts for their mechanical stop watches in this workshop.  Hanhart in the past manufactured more stopwatches than wrist watches. In 2007, they made 20,000 stop watches, but this number decreased significantly as the demand cooled. Simon says that demand is again picking up with annual production of approximately 5,00...

The Most Expensive Richard Mille Watches Ever Sold Teddy Baldassarre
Richard Mille Jul 1, 2025

The Most Expensive Richard Mille Watches Ever Sold

Known for their cutting-edge use of lightweight materials and extravagant prices, Richard Mille is arguably the most exclusive watchmaker in the world. Before getting into the most expensive Richard Mille watches, it's good to get a little context on both the brand and the man. While not a watchmaker by trade, Mille and his brand co-founder Dominique Guenat understood the importance of having a vision and making it a reality. An obsession with lightweight materials and design that push the boundaries of what’s possible in a package as small as a wristwatch, along with some excellent marketing (not to mention good luck), have resulted in a brand that is at the pinnacle of the very highest end of the market. Image by Sotheby's Yes, the six- and seven-figure price tags of Richard Mille watches continue to baffle people (we covered why here). Exclusivity is key, especially in a world where the number of billionaires jumped 500% between 2000 and 2024, and the number of ultra-high-net-worth-individuals (UHNWI) with at least $30 million in net investible assets has grown to 626,619 globally. Of course, Richard Mille watches do not fetch record-breaking prices simply due to exclusivity but because of the exhaustive R&D; process that is unlike any other in watchmaking. Here, we will take a look at some of the most expensive Richard Mille watches ever. By the nature of how these things work, just about all of these sales are coming from the auction market, where the already mind-bo...

Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive Fratello
Credor Jul 1, 2025

Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive

If you are a regular reader of Fratello, you might be aware that I adore the Credor Locomotive. Gérald Genta’s remarkable creation is one of those standout watches that most either love or hate. There seems to be no middle ground when it comes to the watch’s extravagant looks. I was fortunate enough to spend […] Visit Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive to read the full article.

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Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Across Europe’s Jun 30, 2025

Tool/Kit: Niklas Marc Heinecke Takes the Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Across Europe’s Largest Glacier

For this latest edition of Tool/Kit we’re recounting the experience of explorer and photographer, Niklas Marc Heinecke, as he traversed the glacier at Vatnajökull, Iceland. With him is a small troop of scientists and the Fortis Marinemaster M-40, together making the trek… “for the sake of knowledge.” We’re honored to share his story. Vatnajökull, Iceland. At 5:00 a.m., somewhere in the heart of Europe’s largest glacier, I peel my hand from the warmth of a down sleeping bag to check my tool watch. The Fortis Marinemaster M-40 ticks relentlessly, a constant in a landscape defined by change. Outside, the silence of fresh snow blankets a frozen world still recovering from the night’s storm.   The post Tool/Kit: Niklas Marc Heinecke Takes the Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Across Europe’s Largest Glacier appeared first on Worn & Wound.