Hodinkee
Hands-On: Hamilton Channels The 1970s In Its Newest Mechanical Chronograph
But this watch is made for the cockpit – not the disco.
Results for The Heuer Carrera (1963)
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Hodinkee
Point/Counterpoint: The Black Bay Pro Does NOT Look Too Much Like The Explorer II Ref. 1655
Homage is the sincerest form of flattery.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow”
Having devised the granular Frosted Gold finish that’s now found on several Royal Oak models, Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci has teamed up once again with Audemars Piguet, but on a collaboration that goes in an entirely different direction. This time it’s all about contemporary materials and aesthetics with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci Limited Edition 34 mm in black ceramic with an iridescent, laser-engraved sapphire dial and a generous dose of pink gold accents. Initial thoughts Though the Royal Oak has an unmistakable identity, Ms Bucci has proven that the iconic octagonal design can be a canvas for something different. Her latest creation proves that remains true. Although this is merely a new dial, the execution is novel enough to be interesting. The dial isn’t traditional in either technique or materials – the dial is ultra-modern in fact – yet still preserves the classic Royal Oak aesthetic with a chequerboard pattern that evokes its signature tapisserie guilloche. Pairing the iridescent dial with the muted black ceramic case makes the watch even more striking, resulting in an eye-catching aesthetic despite the moderate case of just 34 mm. Still, its modernity in both style and techniques means it could be criticised as a gimmick. But that is too harsh. It’s less timeless than a traditional Royal Oak, but still a timeless design. And it is definitely chic. The hands and applied markers are pink gold, as are the nuts on the bezel R...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire
Having already designed its own El Primero limited edition, Phillips has collaborated with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches each powered by a cal. 135-O. The movement was the specially-regulated variant of Zenith’s flagship chronometer wristwatch movement of the mid-20th century, conceived solely to participate in observatory chronometer contests. As such, the movements were never cased and sold, until now. Contained in a platinum case, the movements were light decorated by Voutilainen, which also supplied the guilloche dial via its dial making subsidiary Comblemine. Initial thoughts The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a good looking watch. It’s evidently modelled on the vintage model and doesn’t change too much of the original design, but instead injects a few elegant details that give it more refinement, like the guilloche chapter ring. These discreet flourishes are enough to set it apart as a higher end watch than the vintage original, which are more of a functional precision chronometer. More broadly, it’s a three-way collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to different degrees. For Phillips, the Observatoire is a sensible collaboration since it chimes with its strength in selling both vintage and modern watches at the top end of the price spectrum. And it also a perfect base for the auctioneer to utilise the discerning eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs a...
Time+Tide
Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen
Precision chronometry is the ultimate test of any manufacture’s mettle. To win and set records at Observatory competitions not only results in a highly coveted award for a manufacture, but also a highly coveted timepiece for collectors to acquire. Herein lies what makes the Zenith calibre 135-0 so legendary in the world of horology. From … ContinuedThe post Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend
The first rule of half-arsed journalism is that if something happens twice it’s a coincidence and if it happens three times then it’s a trend. On that basis the theme of the past week has been bronze-cased watches with blue dials. Along came the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue, followed in quick succession with the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087
The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history, as this brand with so many achievements is never short of watches to be celebrated. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver
Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...
Time+Tide
Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made?
What’s the biggest difference between Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet? For me, while both manufactures embody the best of traditional watchmaking, Audemars Piguet does a far better job of re-interpreting their tradition towards modern sensibilities and bringing their creations to a younger demographic. It’s the 50th anniversary of the AP Royal Oak this year, and … ContinuedThe post Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Oris takes us on a trip to the past with the Hölstein Edition 2022
In the town of Hölstein, 118 years ago, Oris was founded. Since then, the brand has been a darling of collectors, championing the idea of making watches for people of every persuasion. With mantras such as robustness, dependability and affordability, it’s no wonder the brand continues to see success. As a celebration of how far … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris takes us on a trip to the past with the Hölstein Edition 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Longines Throws A High-Frequency Homecoming With The Revival Of Its 1960s Ultra-Chron Diver (Live Pics & Pricing)
Plus, the launch of the new "Ultra-Chronometer" Certification, in partnership with TimeLab in Geneva.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The evolution continues with the new Rado Captain Cook Chronograph
The Rado Captain Cook. As one of the brand’s bestselling lines of watches, the Captain Cook does a great job of showcasing what Rado can do. Interesting use of materials? Check. Amazing, vibrant dials? Check. All this accomplished while staying at a reasonable price point. And for years now, the line has continued to slowly … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The evolution continues with the new Rado Captain Cook Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The MB&F; LM Sequential EVO incorporates two chronographs in one watch
Watchmaking at times can be very predictable and with brands often merely switching up colourways in their latest novelties there is not always as much shock and awe as we would like. Not MB&F; though, you can always count on the independent manufacture to keep you guessing and make the jaws of horological die-hards hit … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The MB&F; LM Sequential EVO incorporates two chronographs in one watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Debuts the Chronomètre Contemporain II
Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...
Hodinkee
Four + One: The 31-Year-Old Frog Lover Who Is On A Mission To Make Vintage Watches More Fun, More Affordable, And More Colorful
When he's not working in Zenith's Heritage Department, Joël Laplace is hunting down the next affordable vintage grail to share with the world on his popular Instagram account.
Hodinkee
Just Because: A Glimpse At The Ultra-Rare Handcrafted Tuscan Dials Of Audemars Piguet
A beautiful deep cut within the Royal Oak world, in the metal.
Time+Tide
This is the watch Checo Perez wore on the podium in Monaco
How about that? Normally seen as a procession around the streets of Monaco, this year’s edition was anything but dull due to heavy rain right before the start of the famous race. All of Christian Horner’s rain dances seemed to have paid off with his Red Bull Racing duo of Sergio “Checo” Perez and Max … ContinuedThe post This is the watch Checo Perez wore on the podium in Monaco appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Silver Screen Glamour Meets Ethical Gold For Chopard At The 75th Festival De Cannes
The glamour of the red carpet at the Cannes film festival is synonymous with gold and diamonds. And thanks to Chopard – one of the pioneers when it comes to ethical gold – the festival’s Palme d’Or trophy and the brand’s Red Carpet collection are helping to make change in the world by using ethically sourced gold and gemstones.
Hodinkee
Inside The Design: Why Salmon Dials Are Still a Thing – And Probably Always Will Be
The unlikely pinkish color bewitches collectors and watchmakers alike. Our design columnist thinks she knows why.
Hodinkee
Beginner's Guide: A Complete Newbie Meets The Willy Wonka Of Watches
As the founder of the totally gonzo brand MB&F;, a man called Max Büsser is one of the world's most daring watchmakers – a charismatic visionary who, among other things, makes time machines that look like bullfrogs. I had no idea.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: It’s never overcast with the new Hublot Big Bang Integral Sky Blue
Each day, when you step outside, it is always great start to a morning to look up and see a clear blue sky. As a master of materials, Hublot has captured that essence within their ceramic with this dreamy hue that’s adjacent to Tiffany blue. Sky blue is not a new hue for Hublot, but … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: It’s never overcast with the new Hublot Big Bang Integral Sky Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
OK, this might be the Tissot PRX you’ve been waiting for…
From online discussions to leaks, and most recently, our introducing post, we couldn’t wait to get our hands on the new Tissot PRX 35. We finally got the chance, and made the most of our time with these five gems. By this point, the PRX talk is probably coming out of your ears, so we’ll … ContinuedThe post OK, this might be the Tissot PRX you’ve been waiting for… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Quick takes: the new Zenith Chronomaster Sport in Gold
Having the Zenith brand heritage and the enhanced movement also helps it stay away from the negative publicity of being ‘just a Daytona copy’. The watch is priced at US$38,200 approximately 3.5 times more than the steel version at US$11,000.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: It's The 2022 NBA Playoffs, Where Watches And Basketball Collide
As the Finals prepare to tip off, join us as we explore the connections between hoops and horology.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Add colour to your travels with the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue
In the last decade, more and more brands have started to embrace the use of bronze in their watches. The material, and its ability to “come alive” on the wrist, adds a unique quality that many collectors enjoy. For Norqain this isn’t breaking news as over the last two years they’ve introduced multiple references making … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Add colour to your travels with the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection
From the 47mm Destros and Bronzos to the monstrous 60mm Egiziano, Panerai has never shied away from large diameters, nor should they, for that matter. The first watches Panerai made were modified pocket watches – the 1936 ref. 2533 measured in at 47mm. Today, however, is about the more wearable spectrum of Panerai’s catalogue. The … ContinuedThe post Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Day-Date in Green Urushi
A proponent of Japanese artisanal crafts, Seiko has just taken the covers off the latest watch decorated with traditional Japanese lacquer, the Presage Craftsmanship Series Urushi Dial Limited Edition ref. SPB295J1. Though both the craft and complications aren’t novel, the SPB295J1 is unusual for its triple retrograde display in a symmetrical layout, which is combined with a dial in dark olive urushi with and gold-powder details. Initial thoughts Like the recent pair of time-only watches with porcelain dials, the SPB295 is one of the more elegant watches in the Presage Craftsmanship line. I like the look of the SPB295 – the symmetry and uniformity make it more appealing than the standard Presage day-date watches that rely on a mix of fan-shaped and round sub-dials for the indicators. Adding to the appeal of the balanced dial layout is the colour. While green is a faddish colour now, it is executed with subtle style here; it’s an understated, dark hue that Seiko accurately describes as evoking a moss garden. And the sprinkle of gold is a nice touch – and a typical feature of traditional Japanese lacquerware – without which the dial the dial might have looked plain. My only gripe is the unusually small “31” at the end of the date scale, as well as the fact that the date numerals are four days apart, making it difficult to read the dates in between. Beyond the colour, the watch stands out for the dial layout. Unlike most Seiko Presage day-date watches, the S...
Hodinkee
Four + One: The Private Watch Collection Of Gentleman Dealer Eric Wind
The vintage expert reveals the pieces he keeps for himself.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover
Tradition is a buzzword in Swiss watchmaking as what we see manufactured today is typically the result of centuries of brand heritage. In the modern era, many novelties are created through age-old techniques, but with design codes and constructions that, perhaps, speak more to the sensibilities of today. Breguet, however, in their Tradition line really … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Chris Hemsworth shows how to do the red carpet right with a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton
EDITOR’S NOTE: Let’s face it watch spotting is a game that’s fraught with error. Yesterday, we suggested in this story that Chris Hemsworth was wearing a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extra Thin. We’ve since received confirmation that the watch in question was, in fact, the skeletonised version of this watch. The copy below has now been … ContinuedThe post Chris Hemsworth shows how to do the red carpet right with a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.