Hodinkee
Introducing: The TAG Heuer x Time+Tide Aquaracer Solargraph 'Sundowner'
With a bit of inspiration from the land down under, Time+Tide has a cool new take on what's become a quiet fan favorite model.
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look – Sundown In Down Under, With The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph x Time+Tide Sundowner Edition
In 2022, TAG Heuer introduced the Aquaracer Professional Solargraph, the brand’s first-ever solar-powered quartz model. This debut followed the release of the revamped Aquaracer Professional 200 series, featuring 40mm steel cases. The Solargraph retained the aesthetic and functional hallmarks of the Aquaracer line, quickly winning over TAG Heuer enthusiasts. Since its launch, several Solargraph variants […]
Worn & Wound
Time+Tide and TAG Heuer Introduce the New Aquaracer Solargraph “Sundowner” Limited Edition
Our friends at Time+Tide have launched their latest collaborative limited edition, a new version of one of our favorite TAG Heuer references, the Aquaracer Solargraph. The Solargraph builds on decades of Aquaracer heritage by incorporating state of the art solar technology that makes it something akin to the ultimate grand and go sports watch. The new LE from Time+Tide trades on the media outlet’s Australian roots to great effect – the end result is a watch straddles the line between the high end and a pure tool, offering something just a little big extra for Time+Tide readers. The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph x Time+Tide “Sundowner,” as it’s known, features a number of design cues inspired by the Australian outback. The reputation of the outback is as a wilderness environment that’s both beautiful and treacherous, so a sandblasted titanium case makes a ton of thematic sense and offers a level of robustness that you’d want if you found yourself in one of Australia’s most remote regions. The barren, desert-like aesthetic is also evoked by the khaki strap and the rose gold dial accents, which provide the Sundowner with a sense of utility and refinement. I’ve never been to the outback, personally, but the watch has a warmth to it that is both uncommon in quartz powered sports watches and feels very much tied to the landscape it’s inspired by. The Solargraph is ostensibly a dive watch, and features a unidirectional rotating bezel in a tone matching that...
Worn & Wound
The Watches We Don’t Wear
“Watches are made to be worn” is a mantra repeated frequently by people like me. To own a watch and not wear it in our community is borderline shameful. As enthusiasts, we take pleasure in the little scratches and signs of wear that a well worn watch picks up, and many of us adhere to the principle that if a watch isn’t being worn regularly, it’s time to move it along, list it on the forums, and replace it with another that hopefully finds a more regular role in the rotation. I’m a believer in wearing watches – that should go without saying. I have a watch box full of watches that I genuinely enjoy having on my wrist. At this point it’s a well cultivated collection that, I think, reflects my taste and personality, and I’m lucky enough to own a handful of watches that give me a real sense of pride in ownership when I put them on. I’m not one to baby my watches or only bring certain pieces out on special occasions, and I certainly don’t have a Safe Queen, which I have to admit is one of my favorite terms of art in our hobby. Alas, I’ve never purchased a watch purely for investment purposes and dropped it off at the bank, with promises to visit around the holidays, or maybe for an anniversary. But I do want to normalize the idea that we can own and enjoy watches that we would never think of wearing. I think most collectors, if they gave it some thought, would be able to identify a watch or two (or more) in their collection that they don’t wear – ...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Metiers d’Art at Phillips Hong Kong
With the Geneva sales over, the auction season now moves to Hong Kong, where Phillips is staging a pair of sales: Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Taking place over three days from November 22-24, the sales total 346 lots, including a notable line-up of metiers d’art timepieces decorated with artisanal techniques. They range from an enamelled Bulgari Serpenti to a Vacheron Constantin Les Masques quartet. We round up metiers d’art highlights from the two sales. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 65 – Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Kimono” Ref. 5077P-097 Patek Philippe’s annual Rare Handcrafts offerings are often centred on several themes, and in 2013, resulting in several models with Japanese motifs, including this Calatrava ref. 5077P with a cloisonné enamel dial. The technique of enamelling is well known: a mixture of silica sand, metal oxides for colour, and oil is painted on a surface before being baked in an oven at temperatures exceeding 800°C. to melt the paste to form enamel. Cloisonné adds an additional layer of complexity by employing gold wires to form the motif, with the enamel painted into the cells form by the wires. Here the wires form a cherry blossom motif typical of traditional kimono fabric. According to Phillips, only four examples were produced with this dial, with the present watch being the first to emerge at auction. This wat...
Fratello
#TBT Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss Wearing Enicar Watches
Having past ambassadors who became icons in their fields of activity is priceless. Some of these connections are real, and some are more of a wish. It’s important to navigate through tons of lies and fairytales made up to boost the value of vintage watches and just stick to the facts. Jim Clark or Stirling […] Visit #TBT Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss Wearing Enicar Watches to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Ball Watch Roadmaster M Model A Review
The best bit of trivia I’ve heard about the Ball Watch Company, founded by its eponym, Webster Clay “Webb” Ball in 1891 — and one I have admittedly kept alive in conversations over the years — is that the expression “on the ball” actually has its origins in the world-renowned accuracy of the railroad watches the company produced in the early 20th Century. The legend, likely apocryphal, has it that “on the ball,” which today denotes a general sense of efficiency and promptness, once referred to a train being dependably on time thanks to the conductor’s use of one of Webb Ball’s meticulously adjusted pocket chronometers. Whether or not any of this is true, what cannot be disputed is Ball Watch’s impressive track record in making tool watches — initially for keeping the railways that knitted together the modern, interconnected United States running smoothly, and eventually pieces engineered specially for divers, pilots, firefighters, and even storm chasers. Ball’s latest release is the Roadmaster M Model A, a timepiece that ushers a mechanical alarm function (that’s the “A”) into the lineup for the first time. As a diehard fan of the somewhat niche complication (I sing its praises and explore its storied history here), I was excited when the Ball Watch team sent me the heads-up on the model several months ahead of its debut and even more eager to get my hands on it for a review. As with most Ball watches, the case of the Roadmaster M Mode...
SJX Watches
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China
Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts an entirely new look for its thinnest-ever perpetual with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China. Crafted entirely in yellow gold in a first for the model, the limited edition even sports a gilded dial with matching yellow gold moon disc. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is inarguably the face of AP. And amongst Royal Oak models, the ultra-thin perpetual calendar stands out for its technical sophistication. Derived from the Royal Oak RD#2 concept watch, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin has a cleverly engineered movement that spreads out the calendar mechanism to minimise its height. That results in a slim case that enhances the proportions of the Royal Oak design. The signature starry moon phase features yellow gold-toned moons The Greater China edition is a major departure from the grey and blue tones of the prior two versions. It’s loud and definitely not for everyone, but it does look good. At the same time, it also references vintage Royal Oak perpetual calendar models that featured similar all-gold livery. Though the price is only on request, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin mode in general is pricey, arguably more expensive than it should be in fact, but it looks and feels great on the wrist. Yellow moons Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the ultra-thin yellow gold case is 41 mm in diameter and 6.2 mm in thickness. Water resistant to only 20 m due to its thinness, the case is finished in traditional Royal Oak style, wit...
Monochrome
First Look – Compact and Colourful, Here’s the new Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 34
Few watch designs offer the freedom to create a series of nearly identical-looking pieces that remain universally appealing, regardless of case size or dial colour. Nomos timepieces, defined by a beautiful simplicity rooted in Bauhaus principles, showcase this versatility nicely… Take for instance the Club Sport series. The sporty line was first introduced in a […]
Fratello
Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps
The new Delugs sailcloth-patterned rubber straps are a refreshing addition to the brand’s repertoire, especially for collectors looking to add a more refined version of the sailcloth strap. First things first: these are not your typical ultra-modern, sports-performance sailcloth-style straps. They’re made with a nod toward traditional aesthetics and construction. A few things stand out […] Visit Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Could This Be The Next New Rolex?
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Could this be the next new Rolex? In today’s episode, we put ourselves in the shoes of the brand’s product developers and exchanged some pitches about what kind of watch we’d love to see Rolex release next. We fully acknowledge it’s practically impossible to guess The Crown’s next move. Still, […] Visit Fratello Talks: Could This Be The Next New Rolex? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Astrophotography For Beginners, By A Beginner
As the title implies, I am in no way, shape, or form a seasoned vet when it comes to astrophotography. I am lucky enough to have a close friend who also dabbles in hobby photography and has done a fair bit of nighttime shooting. So, when he sent me a random text message asking if I would be interested in backpacking during the next new moon for star photos, I jumped at the opportunity. This is not some epic story about plunging into the backcountry for some never-before-seen magical shots, but hopefully will provide those of you looking to try astrophotography a bit of a baseline. Just to get it out of the way, I will include my primary gear below and the camera specs I started shooting at. At the end of this article, I will also include a recommended gear list of other items we found useful. One other side note for those interested: I experimented on our second night with a different camera body and different lens, so stay tuned for that comparison. Gear Camera: Sony A7R IV Lense: Sony FE 14mm f/1.8 GM Tripod: Benro SystemGo Plus Aluminum Tripod Tripod Head: 3-Way Geared Head Settings ISO: 3200 Shutter: 13” F-Stop: 1.8 Self Timer Single Shot 2 Sec (to avoid shutter shake) With all of that listed out, go ahead and set up your camera with the widest lens you own, set your aperture to the lowest number possible, and go out and start shooting the night sky. A new moon was the key to the whole trip. The first lunar phase, a new moon occurs when the moon and sun have th...
Monochrome
Breaking News – The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Wins the GPHG 2024 Aiguille d’Or (And All Prize Winners)
The 2024 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has just unveiled the grand winner of this year’s awards ceremony! Often regarded as the Oscars of Watchmaking, the GPHG stands for a celebration of all things surrounding mechanical watchmaking. A specially selected jury, which included our founder and editor-in-chief Frank Geelen, has narrowed down […]
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumiere
We expect, at this point, Christopher Ward to impress us with showstopper releases from time to time. Whether it’s the Bel Canto, the Twelve X, or something comparatively more sedate like the C1 Moonphase, it’s clear that the brand has entered an era where they are willing and able to flex, expanding the very idea of what Christopher Ward is capable of. But not every watch is a stake in the ground. This is still a brand that, at the end of the day, has a core idea behind it, and that’s to offer straightforward value to their customers, whether they’re enthusiasts or not. And that’s what makes the C60 Trident Lumiere one of this year’s big surprises. This is Christopher Ward operating squarely within their wheelhouse, but with little hints of the improved tech and manufacturing prowess that is highlighted in their marquee releases. The dramatic application of luminescent material is the highlight, but the case, dial, and bracelet represent years worth of incremental advancements the brand has made, and seeing them applied to a diver in their core collection could shift how you think about the brand. In this video, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan discuss their impressions of the C60 Trident Lumiere, how it fits in with the rest of the Christopher Ward collection, and why this watch has struck a chord with enthusiasts. Christopher Ward The post [VIDEO] Hands-On with the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumiere appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex x The James Brand Titanium Automatic GMT ‘Emerald Edition’
Recently, Timex joined forces with The James Brand to release what many consider a game-changer in the world of affordable GMTs: a titanium-cased automatic GMT that married the utility-focused aesthetic of The James Brand with Timex's watchmaking expertise.
Time+Tide
How Junghans went from making straw hats to becoming a global power
We take you through the intriguing history of an oft-overlooked German manufacturer.The post How Junghans went from making straw hats to becoming a global power appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – Moritz Grossmann Celebrates its 16th Anniversary with the Enamel Roman Vintage
Moritz Grossmann (1826-1855) was one of the founding fathers of Glashütte’s proud watchmaking tradition. However, his death in 1855 marked the extinction of the brand that was acquired by watchmaker Christine Hutter in 2008. Having forged its own identity with 16 in-house calibres and a commitment to Schönstes deutsches Handwerk (the most beautiful German craftsmanship), […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph, now in full Pink Gold
The classic Reverso Chronograph, a watch initially presented in 1996, is a piece of great historical importance. It was the first manually wound integrated chronograph to be developed in the post-quartz era, marking the return to classic watchmaking. Last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, a Duoface model looking back at this 1990s classic, […]
Worn & Wound
The Latest From Elka is a Limited Edition with a Whiskey Inspired Dial
Just hearing the brand Elka brings back nostalgic memories of my trip to Neuchatel back in 2019, a picture perfect Swiss town bordering a very large lake. It’s often known as the “land of watchmakers” and hosts the headquarters for some of the most renowned Swiss watch brands, including Elka Watches. Elka has launched a watch and whiskey collaboration with the limited release of 25 S series watches, each to be paired with their own unique bottle of golden hued Single Malt Whiskey. Many watch collectors, including myself, take pleasure in the opportunity to enjoy an evening dram of fine Scotch or Bourbon while gazing into the dials of our most prized watches. Oftentimes you can find us comparing notes from the liquor that complement the vibe of the watch, or even superficial aesthetic cues such as the color of the whiskey matching various earthy colors found on the watch – such is the case with this limited pairing from Elka. The Whiskey that comes with this new limited edition watch from Elka is not a Scotch, nor a Bourbon – but rather a single malt by the name of Loch Lat that has been distilled in Neuchatel and aged in Cognac casks. Whiskey that has not been distilled in Scotland lawfully cannot bear the official name of a Scotch (the same goes for Bourbon which needs to be made within the USA) and that’s the case here with this Swiss single malt not bearing either label. This new S series release from Elka is very elegant and dressy in appearance, but ...
Monochrome
First Look – The new PR516 Powermatic 80 is Tissot at its Best
Earlier this year, Tissot introduced a revised version of its classic 1960s watch, the PR516 Chronograph Mechanical. Stylish with just the right retro touch, well-proportioned, featuring a hand-wound movement and offered at an accessible price, it got very positive reactions from the watch community – and from us, too. Lo and behold, another model is […]
Worn & Wound
A Closer Look At The New Timex X Worn & Wound WW75 V3 Endless Summer
Affordable, mechanical, and stylish are why we’re excited to bring the third version of Timex x Worn & Wound WW75 into the world. When we first worked with Timex on this project a few years ago, we didn’t expect it to be an annual event, but we are absolutely thrilled that it is. Timex is a brand every watch fan, collector, and enthusiast knows and enjoys, whether they are just starting with this hobby or have every grail one could imagine. There is an undeniable charm to their fun designs and lack of pretension, two things we highly value at W&W;.The simple act of looking at a watch can do far more than reveal the time. It can inspire us to push our limits, it can bring back a memory, it can simply bring joy. Upon revisiting the Timex x Worn & Wound WW75 for the third and final time in this configuration, we wanted to create a watch that did more than look good, though that was achieved – we wanted it to take you from where you are and transport you back to the end of summer. Back to that time when the weather was first starting to turn, you realized the sun was setting sooner, and a bittersweet nostalgia seemed to creep in on the occasional cool breeze. Affordable, mechanical, and stylish are why we’re excited to bring the third version of Timex x Worn & Wound WW75 into the world. When we first worked with Timex on this project a few years ago, we didn’t expect it to be an annual event, but we are absolutely thrilled that it is. Timex is a brand every watch f...
SJX Watches
Editorial: Geneva Auctions Fall 2024
Perhaps the most surprising moment of the fall auction season in Geneva was when the hammer came down on an MoonSwatch at Christie’s for CHF69,300 including fees – exactly the same as a Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” that sold later in the day. But as is almost always the case with record prices at auction, there was a story behind the price and a method to the madness. The MoonSwatch was the unique “millionth” example conceived specifically for this auction, where all proceeds went to ELA, a French medical charity. The ELA sale was spearheaded by Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief of Kering, the luxury conglomerate that owns Christie’s, and certainly one of the most influential people in the luxury goods business. Sitting in the room and opening the sale was Mr Pinault’s fellow trustee at ELA, Zinedine Zidane, the French footballer better known as Zizou who’s regarded as one of the all-time best players and coaches. Christie’s auctioneer Rahul Kadakia with Zizou. Image – Christie’s Bidding via phone, the winning bidder of the MoonSwatch – which sold for over 150 times the retail price – announced to the room via a Christie’s rep that his winning bid was for “ELA and Zizou”. It was clearly a statement that he or she would have paid up for whatever watch was on sale, regardless if it was plastic or precious metal. It was a good deed done that was no bearing on the MoonSwatch or watches in general. To the moon MoonSwatch aside, the season was pos...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Expands with New Ceramic Models
A classic from Blancpain‘s range of sports watches, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is a sleeker and more daily-oriented vision of a dive watch. Available in a host of materials (titanium, gold or ceramic), in various sizes and with an array of complications, the brand now returns to classic functions with two new time-and-date editions and […]
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tourbillons, Marquetry and Multi-Axis
Continuing its annual tradition, Vacheron Constantin (VC) reveals the year’s Les Cabinotiers collection of one-of-a-kind watches that are both technically complex and decorated by skilled artisans. The line-up includes two distinct tourbillon offerings, Le Temps Divin Ode to the Four Guardians featuring marquetry dials inspired by mythical animals of East Asia, and Le Temps Divin Armillary Tourbillon Greek Mythology, a pair of double-axis tourbillons featuring hand-engraved decor. “Divine time” Known for its pursuit of traditional artisanal techniques like enamelling, wood marquetry, and engraving, the Geneva watchmaker integrates such decorative techniques into its Metiers d’Art and Les Cabinotiers timepieces, which are as much works of art as they are timekeepers. This year’s collection is titled Le Temps Divin, or “Divine Time”. Though united by a tourbillon regulator, the new models are each very different, both in the thematic inspirations as well as the decorative and technical execution. Le Temps Divin refers to the mythological concepts of time from different cultural perspectives. The quartet of “Ode to the Four Guardians” tourbillons is inspired by four mythological creatures of East Asian culture, each representing one season. The Armillary Tourbillon pair, on the other hand, focuses on the ancient Greek god of time, the titan Chronos. The fabled creatures of the East Ode to the Four Guardians draws inspiration from the four seasons and the...
Fratello
The Fratello Watch List: Jorg’s Pre-Owned And Neo-Vintage Favorites From Omega, Rolex, And Tudor
Welcome to another installment of the Fratello Watch List! Thomas and Daan opened the series with several interesting picks. Some of them could easily be on my list too. But as there is so much to find in the world of pre-owned watches, it’s easy to come up with a series of different options. Like […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: Jorg’s Pre-Owned And Neo-Vintage Favorites From Omega, Rolex, And Tudor to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite: Global Travel Meets Outer Space
GaryG had the opportunity to borrow a Rolex GMT-Master II BLRO Meteorite from a long-time friend to photograph and wear. This watch's main event is the dial, a thin slice of metallic meteorite whose crystalline structure reflects the slow cooling process that took place as the meteor hurtled through space. Here he tries a variety of photographic techniques to learn which works best on the dial's unique structures. Which are your favorites?
SJX Watches
Zenith Beefs Up the Retro Defy Diver
Chunky and water resistant to 600 m, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is based on the Defy A3648 of 1969. It shares the distinctive styling of the vintage original, but the Extreme Diver is modern in construction and specs. The case is titanium while the bezel is black ceramic. Originally introduced with either a black or blue dial, the Extreme Diver now gets a silver dial while retaining the signature bright orange flange. Initial thoughts Zenith’s catalogue includes several sports watches, including the Chronomaster Sport, but the Defy Extreme Diver is arguably the most distinctive design. With historical roots in the vintage Defy A3648, the Extreme Diver is also original. And the watch also manages to look entirely modern, despite preserving most of the design elements of the vintage original, including the angular case and 14-sided inner bezel. The Extreme Defy is one of Zenith’s pricier time-and-date watches at CHF10,900, but is still a reasonable value proposition considering the in-house movement and overall build quality. Stars Rated to 600 m just like the vintage A3648, the Extreme Diver has a case of brushed titanium measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in thickness. Around the trademark 14-sided inner bezel is a unidirectional black ceramic bezel with fluted edges for grip. Large titanium crown guards protect the fluted screw-in crown at three. The dial is finished in silvery-white with sunburst brushing. Like other Defy models, the dial is decorated wit...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Métiers d’Art Collection
Time is relative… Not all cultures conceptualize time in the same way. With their newest métiers d’art series, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin (the divine time), Vacheron Constantin explores the perception of time through the prism of different cultures. Nine one-of-a-kind creations invite us to travel to Ancient Greece, Asia and Japan. This new lineup follows last year’s […]
WatchAdvice
Hands On With The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Limited Edition
As part of the 140th Anniversary celebrations, Breitling has released a limited edition Chronomat 42 just for the Australian and New Zealand market, with 140 pieces available. As an Australian publication, we just had to get our hands on it! What We Love: The “Arctic White” dial is fresh and clean The Rouleaux-style rubber strap is comfortable and so easy to wear Size is great and will wear well for most wrist sizes What We Don’t: The way the strap is reversed and threads through towards the body The chronograph pushers are slightly on the stiffer side The anti-reflective coating can be easily seen looking at the watch and dial Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Breitling’s Chronomat has been around for a little while, 82 years in fact, and the original watch resembled a Navitimer more than the modern Chronomat we know today. In fact, the Chronomat was Brerilting’s first slide rule watch and was designed for mathematicians to do complex calculations with the watch – hence the original name CHRONOgraph for MAThematicians, Chronomat. At the time, is was a world first, and what Breitling dubbed, the worlds first “Smart Watch”. It’s a nice play on words and back in 1942, it was revolutionary and was one of Willy Breilting’s most loved products. An original Chronomat from 1942, complete with slide rule. If you think this looks like a Navitier, you would be correct as this was the first watc...
Fratello
Collector’s Story: My Omega Speedmaster Mark 4.5 Financed By The Spy Who Loved Me
We often receive great personal stories from our readers about their watches. Some of them stick with us for a long time, like this story submitted by Nick about his Speedmaster Mark 4.5 and its connection to the Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me. We published this article nearly 10 years ago, but in […] Visit Collector’s Story: My Omega Speedmaster Mark 4.5 Financed By The Spy Who Loved Me to read the full article.