Hodinkee
Introducing: The New 34mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak In White Ceramic
Before Labor Day, after Labor Day – who cares, people will be clamoring to wear this watch.
Results for De Rijke
22,341 articles · 2,130 videos found · page 548 of 816
Hodinkee
Deployant
New: King Seiko SJE095
Seiko continues to focus on their high end King Seiko, and releases a new reference with a Edo-kiriko style geometric dial. Here is teh SJE095.
SJX Watches
The Longines Hydroconquest is Now a True GMT
Longines’ contemporary diver that’s been in the catalogue for over 16 years, the Hydroconquest now gets an upgrade with a new complication. The Hydroconquest GMT is the first model in the line-up with a dual time zone. In contrast to the bolder-looking time-only counterparts, the new GMT is accompanied by a pared-back, legible dial complemented with a unidirectional ceramic bezel and the brand’s latest automatic calibre. Initial thoughts The Hydroconquest tends to receive less attention compared to dive watches from other brands in this price range. In my view, this can be ascribed to its dial design that was bold with oversized numerals positioned at six, nine, and 12, yet not particularly distinctive. Longines probably realised this and smartly developed a new timepiece with a practical complication while tweaking the dial layout and getting rid of these oversized numerals. The shift from oversized numerals to more conventional indices is particularly notable on the green and brown dials where the colours underscore the carefully thought-out design. Purists might argue for eliminating the date window to further streamline the dial, though that would remove one of the key elements of a traditional GMT watch. The Hydroconquest GMT is priced at US$2,675 on a NATO strap, with a rubber strap or steel bracelet available for an extra US$100. This is good value, particularly since the watch includes a bona fide GMT function with an independent local-time hour hand, all f...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo
When it comes to big watch fairs like Watches & Wonders Geneva, it’s often the brands that aren’t officially exhibiting at the show that have some of the most exciting releases. Step out of the frenetic hive of activity that is Palexpo and go exploring Geneva’s streets, hotels and bars and you’ll find all manner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Lang 1943 Field Watch Edition One: Competitively Priced and Approaching Perfection
Lang 1943 is not a homage, it stands its own ground and can best be summarized as a beautiful tool. The first thing that the team at Lang 1943 got right was the proportions. A diameter of 39mm is spot on, particularly when the thickness is just 8.40 mm. This results in a timepiece that is comfortable to wear, large enough to be easy to read, but not overly bulky that it hinders movements.
Time+Tide
The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space sports a star-struck dial and some fine movement finishing
Sometimes, hearing about a new brand named after someone you’ve never heard of, some alarm bells ring. It’s a fairly classic trick used by companies to instil a sense of heritage for watches that are designed out of a catalogue and mass-manufactured for profit. Oliver Gallaugher couldn’t be further away from that stereotype, proudly attaching … ContinuedThe post The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space sports a star-struck dial and some fine movement finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face
It may come as a bit of a surprise, but I often compare Rolex and Cartier due to a strong commonality. Yes, they are very different brands with very different products. But an element I believe they do share is a very key point. Watch enthusiasts often point out that Rolex practises incremental updates. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches, Ep. 61: New Dial Colors Galore, & A Redesigned Longines HydroConquest
A Week In Watches returns with a look at a plethora of new releases that include updates from Christopher Ward, Glashütte Original, Nomos, and Tissot. Everyone has a new dial color or case size, it would seem, but they all work well here, bringing new renditions to old favorites, and further dialing in already great platforms. The big news this week comes from Longines, who redesigned their HydroConquest family with a new collection of GMT watches. Unique colorways and a few odd details on the dial preserve some of that classic HydroConquest character, while showing some serious sings of maturity in the process. In other news, we’re about a year away from the 2024 summer Olympic games in Paris, and Omega is ready to kick things off with a new Seamaster 300 commemorating the games. Omega and the Olympics go way back, like way way back, so it’s no surprise to see Omega getting a head start on things with a new LE, and we suspect that this won’t be the last to do so. Finally, can you ever have too much of a good thing? Tissot doesn’t think so, and just keeps iterating on the wildly popular PRX range, most recently with new dial colors and even a fully gold plated example in their 35mm Powermatic 80 PRX line. It should come as no surprise that they work rather well. Catch more details on these watches in our full intro. Reminder that you can catch us again in 2 weeks for more watches, people, and news in episode 62 of A Week In Watches. The post A Week In Watches, Ep....
Time+Tide
You Can Only Wear One For Life (Pt 2): Breitling, Omega, IWC, TAG Heuer – these were your responses…
Editor’s note: For a watch collector, horological monogamy is a huge challenge. The idea of limiting yourself to one watch, or one brand, is enough to give most watch collectors the sweats. But we like to have fun at Time+Tide. So we challenged you all to pick one of four brands in part one. The … ContinuedThe post You Can Only Wear One For Life (Pt 2): Breitling, Omega, IWC, TAG Heuer – these were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Patek Phillipe Calatrava Ref. 6007A: A Very Un-Calatrava Calatrava – Reprise
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6007A marked a physical and spiritual shift for the brand and may be one of the most un-Calatrava Calatravas of recent memory. Joshua Munchow takes a look at what made this model an outlier and also why it simultaneously didn't come from left field.
Time+Tide
New releases from Breitling, Norqain, Oris and more
This week was a little surprising with Breitling quietly releasing several models (including a limited edition) and a couple of independents who presented classically inspired timepieces. Is it a sign that unfortunately summer is coming to an end? Here are some of the best new releases from this past week. Norqain Neverest GMT Glacier 41mm … ContinuedThe post New releases from Breitling, Norqain, Oris and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph
Watches & Wonders 2023 feels like a lifetime ago, but certain releases have stuck with us. Chopard’s L.U.C collection continues to impress with every release, and they doubled down on proving their worth at Watches & Wonders by unveiling both a reissue and a new design. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 returns to the collection’s 1997 … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Audacious Design Of 1970s Patek
The '70s gave way to experimental design across the board. Was Patek Philippe the clear victor of ingenuity?
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Chris Plant
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Chris Plant, aka @mister_wrist_er on Instagram, gives us a look at a trio of watches from his own collection that fit the $5,000 collection bill perfectly. These watches suit his lifestyle and needs, which you can read more about on his own blog, misterwrister.ca, where he documents his horological journey, including the three watches below. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The three watches that I chose make up a perfectly balanced collection for me. I have the rugged, Swiss quartz dive watch that will never fail me even in the deepest depths, the deliciously vintage inspired dress watch for life’s more refined situations, and a steel sports watch that has the ideal mix of historical significance, robust capability and generational provenance. Tissot Seastar Chronograph 1000 (Ref. T120.417.17.041.00) – $550 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Mister Wrister (@mister_wrist_er) When I began building my watch collection, I needed to find a watch that would become my Go Anywhere Do Anything choice. I had several criteria in mind. Firstly, it needed to be a watch capable of keeping up with my lifestyle, whether it was running with my Pomsky puppy in the park, wandering across the busy streets of Montreal, or hiking on one of the numerous mountain trails outside city. Secondly, it had to be a dive watch. Strapping on...
Worn & Wound
Review: The Horage Lensman 2 Brian Griffin Edition
Okay, before we even get one more word into this, no, it’s not that Brian Griffin. All homages to one of the world’s most famous animated dogs are relegated to Timex and their appreciation for Snoopy. Brian Griffin is a renowned photographer and filmmaker best known for his work capturing 1980’s pop musicians, earning him the title of “Photographer of the Decade ” by The Guardian in 1989. His understanding of lighting techniques and how they were depicted on film are unparalleled, and Horage crafting a special edition timepiece inspired by his work makes a ton of sense. That’s what we’re looking at today - Horage’s wrist-worn cheat sheet for manual photography. Featuring a rotating bezel and some clever dial design, you can use the watch on your wrist to nail the perfect exposure. As someone who spends quite a bit of time behind a camera, I enjoy that this watch is a fun and functional ode to photography, and I’m here for it. There’s a lot going on with this retro-cool square watch, so let’s break it down. Case Featuring a “Hybrid Bi-metallic Exoskeleton Case,” the Lensman 2 is using a lot of fancy words to say that it’s crafted from two metals. The inner case is made from anodized matte black aluminum, while the outer case is rendered in a polished grade 5 titanium. The way that it’s designed makes it so the most exposed surfaces are the more durable titanium, while the softer black aluminum inside keeps the weight of the watch down and add...
Time+Tide
Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term
A couple of weeks ago, T+T reported how Swatch were suing the Malaysian government after it seized 172 of their watches from stores. The reason for the seizure? The watches, which come in either rainbow colours or a single colour with a rainbow trim, were released in support of Pride, the movement that promotes the … ContinuedThe post Wear this Pride-themed Swatch in Malaysia and you face a three-year jail term appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall
Adventure and a well-made timepiece have long gone hand-in-hand. From Arctic expeditions to sailing adventures, the spirit of discovery is only enhanced by a great watch to keep one company. One natural landmark above all others seems to encapsulate the spirit of adventure, while simultaneously showing us the beauty of the natural world: Mount Everest. With its dangerous valleys, snowy peaks, and legendary status in our collective imagination, Mount Everest has captured thrill seekers for centuries. It’s no wonder, then, that NORQAIN has added two new models to its NEVEREST range, each continuing to highlight the exceptionalism of the world’s tallest mountain. Each watch in this new release takes on its own interpretation of mountaineering excellence with a modern feel, making for a unique interpretation of Mount Everest’s legacy that doesn’t feel too contrived or on the nose. For example, the NEVEREST GMT Glacier Grey & Gold takes inspiration from the gold light-filled crevasses of the mountain with a “cracked” gold dial against a black background. The watch is complemented by a 41mm stainless steel case, a date window at 3 o’clock, red gold-plated hands, and Superluminova hands and indices. It’s the small details of this watch which show not only an attention to detail, but an imagination to marry performance and aesthetics. The second release from the NEVEREST line-up is the 40mm Glacier Black & Gold. Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall, the most dangerous pa...
Deployant
New: Hanhart Pioneer Silva
Hanhart releases a new model to join their Pioneer collection – the Silva. As usual for Hanhart, the novelty is pitched at the modestly priced segment. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New: Hanhart Pioneer Silva The Hanhart Pioneer Silva will be available on www.hanhart.com for EUR 890, inclusive of EUR 19% VAT. CommentaryRead More
SJX Watches
In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1
Marco Lang made a comeback in 2020 with his eponymous brand and the Zweigesicht-1. The year before the German watchmaker departed his prior brand after disagreements with the investor who was the majority owner, which allowed Mr Lang to revert to being a true independent watchmaker. Despite a relatively conservative face, the Zweigesicht is quirky and original from a technical perspective. Zwei gesicht translates as “double faced”, which describes the watch literally. It has two faces, one on each side of the case, both of which indicate the time. The watch can be worn on either side thanks to lugs that are removable (in an operation that requires delicate manual work). And the movement incorporates a novel, and perhaps unnecessary, shock recorder. Initial thoughts To start with, zwei gesicht is a mouthful for non-German speakers. Perhaps for that reason, fellow German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne opted for made-up words like Zeitwerk and Datograph. But despite the unfamiliar name, the watch is elegant in form, measuring under 10 mm high, and impressive in decoration and construction. The zwei gesicht nature of the watch gives it two distinct appearances, a low-key conventional front and an elaborate, mechanical reverse. Two-faced watches are not new by any means, but Mr Lang’s approach is notable for rely on conventional lugs and by consequence, maintaining a classical appearance. In contrast, most double-faced watches are either rectangular or have unusual lugs. T...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas
It’s that time of year where the Swiss typically go on holiday, which means there’s less news about fresh releases this week. Nonetheless, some big news was announced at Sotheby’s, when Geoff Hess was revealed as the esteemed auction house’s new Head of Watches for the Americas region. “It is my honour to take up … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature
Smokey Bear became established as a quintessential figure for all Americans towards the end of World War II. The character was created in 1944 to help prevent forest fires, and his role today might be even more relevant due to the continuing rise in global temperatures and devastating wildfires. Smokey Bear’s mission, therefore, transcends borders … ContinuedThe post The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Longines Redesigns HydroConquest With New GMT Collection
Longines’ polarizing dive watch collection, the HydroConquest, has received a major overhaul from the Swatch Group brand, featuring a GMT compilation for the first time since 2007. This is still a true dive capable watch through and through, integrating the GMT component in a more subtle manner than you might imagine. As we’ve come to expect from Longines recently, this new collection is kicking off with a plethora of earth tone color schemes, and multiple strap options. There is some retro-inspiration happening here, but this one doesn’t feel like a throwback. If you weren’t fond of the 5 stars of the dial of the Zulu Time, this might be the one you’ve been waiting for. The new HydroConquest is built within a steel case that measures 41mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, and places a large rotating bezel assembly front and center. Rather than placing the 24 hour scale on the bezel, they’ve reserved this element for the watch’s diving ambitions, and it is graduated to the minutes as you might expect. The 24 hour scale is moved to the rehaut at the perimeter of the dial, and is bi-color to separate the halves of the day. It’s a graceful implementation that retains enough functionality to be practical, though perhaps not quite as quick to read at a glance compared to other GMT watches. Moving into the dial things get a bit more interesting still, with some unusual but welcome decisions being made that help this watch stand on its own. First, the dial ...
Quill & Pad
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem: Reflections of a Laser Physicist on ‘Saxem’
In early 2023, Hublot introduced the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem, featuring a case made of a mysterious and rather impressive-looking crystal called Saxem. It looked like an addition to the brand's extensive line of sapphire watches. But as a retired laser physicist, I wondered: what material was behind that name? Perhaps a special kind of synthetic sapphire?
Worn & Wound
Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years of the Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver with a New Huckberry Collaborative Limited Edition
Our friends at Huckberry have partnered with Zodiac for their second collaborative limited edition, an homage to the original version of the Sea Wolf from 1953 with subtle bronze accents. This year marks the 70th anniversary of the iconic Zodiac skin diver platform, and the easy to wear dive watch arguably makes more sense today than it ever has. A skin diver, by definition, is a little lighter, smaller, and more casual than a full throated “pro” dive watch, while still being more than robust enough for day to day wear, including any number of water based activities. And as Zodiac has proven over and over again, their simple and straightforward design is a fantastic blank canvas for collaborators, with the Sea Wolf easily taking on any number of personalities and characteristics as colors shift and change. The new limited edition made with Huckberry is suitably vintage inspired, with the bronze adding an additional layer of refinement. The new Super Sea Wolf Bronze is a bit of a fakeout in that it’s not a full bronze watch, but keeps the bronze content limited to the rotating dive bezel and crown. This is a smart choice, giving the watch a subtle two-tone appearance and dressing it up just a tad from its tool watch roots. Bronze, of course, is known to patina quite heavily and in a very particular way, so we’d expect the bezel to take on a weathered look as this is used. According to Huckberry, the application of bronze here was inspired by early diving helmets, ...
Worn & Wound
Raging Against the Machine in Talkeetna, Alaska: The Impossible Watch Company
Impossible Watch Company, based in Talkeetna, Alaska, has a name with a double meaning. Chris, the owner of the brand, told me he called it “Impossible” because it seemed like such a tall task for a watch industry outsider to get a brand off the ground. “I had to jump through so many hoops,” he said, referring to the start-up process and the various logistical challenges he faced when starting the company. And Chris has other irons in the fire besides his watch brand – he’s an old school entrepreneur with hugely varied interests, making Impossible Watch Company (IMP for short) even more of a challenge. And yet, here he is, with a growing following on Instagram, and a website full of sold out listings. As a friend pointed out to him after the brand started to gain some traction, the name works in the case of success too: “I M Possible.” On the one hand, IMP is not unlike a whole bunch of other small, independently run brands. It’s a one man operation, and the watches have a vintage inspired aesthetic that will naturally garner comparisons to those made by Furlan Marri, Baltic, and others. But look closer, and there’s something else happening here, something equal parts compelling (in terms of the watchmaking) and subversive. Sure, there’s a sector dial chronograph in the collection that on the surface has some fairly obvious similarities to watches made by those brands mentioned above. But there are also time only watches with sterile stone dials. An...
Worn & Wound
Vero Introduces a Pair of Watches Inspired by the Long History of Smokey Bear, the Iconic National Symbol of Forest Conservation
Here’s a character watch we never saw coming. To celebrate the 79th birthday of Smokey Bear (famous for his “Only you can prevent wildfires” tagline), Vero is releasing a pair of officially licensed Smokey Bear watches. It’s actually a natural partnership for Vero. As a fire prevention mascot, Smokey is well known in the Pacific Northwest, where Vero is based. And Vero’s brand identity very much leans into the culture of love for the outdoors – it’s a huge part of every watch they make, both in terms of the aesthetics (with designs and colors inspired by Vero’s Oregon home) and their robust nature (the Workhorse comes immediately to mind). These new watches have a charm factor that’s just about off the charts if you grew up seeing Smokey on TV warning you about the dangers of forest fires, but they’re also Vero through and through. First up is the Smokey ‘44 watch, which takes its inspiration from the types of early field style watches that would have been in use the year Smokey made his debut. The dominant feature here is the large cathedral hour hand, paired with Arabic numerals in a distinctive gothic typeface. Vero says this typeface was chosen to match iconic mid century signage found in the US National Parks System. The Smokey ‘44 watch includes the familiar illustration of Smokey (wearing his hat, of course) at the 12:00 position, with “Only You” text right underneath, a reference to his iconic catchphrase. The Smokey ‘64 is perhaps...
Time+Tide
Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions
The Norqain Neverest Glacier returns with two rocky-faced references. The 41mm GMT model and 40mm three-hand model are decorated with rose gold running through their cracked surfaces. 10% of the sales will go to the Butterfly Help Project, housing and educating the families of sherpas who died on Mount Everest. As a brand focused on … ContinuedThe post Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Summer Shades for the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph
Glashütte Original has released the latest variations of its vintage-style sports chronograph, the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. First introduced in 2014, the watch is defined by a squarish case, integrated bracelet, and in-house movement. Now the German watch brand has unveiled a limited edition pair that feature matte, lacquered dials in either ochre or grey-blue. Initial thoughts Given the niche appeal of its obviously-retro case, it is unsurprising that the Seventies Chronograph doesn’t receive as much attention as most sports watches derived from that period. It doesn’t quite have the same look of the most popular watches of the 1970s (think sports watches from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet). That’s something of a shame considering the excellent, integrated chronograph movement inside. Hopefully, the introduction of brighter dial options will boost its appeal. Certainly, the new dial offerings align with the current trend for coloured dials, particular the dial in light blue that’s much like the shade found in the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection. This dial update significantly improves the models in terms of visual appeal as it gives the model a more lively appearance compared to earlier versions that had conventional dark, metallic finish dials. Priced at US$14,100 on a rubber strap and US$15,300 on a matching bracelet, the new models cost slightly more than the standard models. But given these are limited editions in colours will not be seen a...
Worn & Wound
Exploring the Importance of the Watch Strap
Editor’s Note: If you’re a particular type of watch enthusiast, you might know Stephen Damico from his website, Strap Sense. Strap Sense is one of those little corners of watch enthusiasm that can only exist in a space filled with people who are truly passionate about their hobby. It’s a blog devoted entirely to strap reviews, with every bit as much attention and care paid to the intricacies of a strap as we pay to watches here on Worn & Wound. We love straps, and appreciate the huge variety of straps of all kinds that are out there to be mixed and match, and we’re excited that Stephen will occasionally be writing about some of the straps that are of most interest to him right here on these pages. Today, before any formal reviews, we asked Stephen to introduce himself, and tell us about why he feels the watch strap is worthy of such a close analysis. I have a saying I often use on my website that informs how I approach writing about straps: a watch strap tells the story wherein the watch is the main character. It is all about the story – it is who we are. Entire marketing campaigns are built around creating and curating a story, and we all wear watches to help tell our story. One day we can be a diver, another an astronaut, and by the weekend we are a super spy or royalty. Mark Twain once said, “I like a good story well told. That is the reason I am sometimes forced to tell them myself.” There is nobody on earth more qualified to help you tell your sto...
WatchAdvice
Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton
Pros Unique sapphire crystal The cool Ceramos bezelSkeletonized dial Cons Crown operations can get trickyCombining Square faceted sapphire crystal and Skeleton dial can get busy.Design cues for the DiaStar are not for everyone. Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 Rado’s iconic DiaStar model gets another update following last year’s 60th anniversary of the DiaStar edition, getting a case material change from hard metal to Rado CeramosTM and a one of kind Square faceted sapphire crystal. The Rado DiaStar was first introduced in 1962, and what an introduction it was. A milestone for the watch industry, the Rado DiaStar came with a ‘funky’ design and, more importantly, a scratch-proof case. Rado designed the very first DiaStar as a ceramic timepiece with a material called “tungsten carbide”. Although some people may argue that it’s not ceramic, tungsten carbide is considered ceramic, at least by the American Ceramic Society. This is important because no timepiece at the time of DiaStar’s debut could offer a scratch-proof watch. When it comes to material innovation, the Diastar in ceramic was a breakthrough for the watchmaking industry. In modern times, the use of ceramic on timepieces is a more regular occurrence; however, for the industry as a whole, brands didn’t get on board with this material till around the 1980s. This highlights how far ahead in terms of material expertise and usage Rado wa...