Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Brief Exploration Of Funky Dive Watch Features
Three technologies that surprisingly made their way into dive watches.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
Why I bought the Citizen Chronomaster and succumbed to the allure of High Accuracy Quartz
A Citizen Chronomaster shows a HAQ watch (High Accuracy Quartz) can be the cornerstone of any collection.The post Why I bought the Citizen Chronomaster and succumbed to the allure of High Accuracy Quartz appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Joins Norqain Board
Founded by a duo who each hail from families long involved in Swiss watchmaking, Norqain is only four years old but has managed to firmly establish its identity as a maker of affordable sports watches. The brand is now helmed by young team with an average age of 35 – now the average is being nudged upwards by the addition of Jean-Claude Biver to Norqain’s board. “My role… allows me to be associated with an exciting brand in an essential price-point for the Swiss watch industry,” says Mr Biver in the announcement of his appointment, “It is very important to have strong Swiss independent brands in different price segments and Norqain offers an exciting challenge to the status quo”. Norqain remains a small brand, but stands out for its use of calibres made by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer majority owned by Tudor and minority owned by Chanel. Perhaps thanks to the strong industrial base of both its owners, Kenissi’s movements are amongst the best in of the price-performance ratio. The brand’s ability to call on a supplier like Kenissi is due in part to its founders, who were born into the industry. Norqain’s lead founder is Ben Küffer, whose father, Marc, once ran Roventa Henex, the private-label watches that is perhaps the biggest of its kind in Switzerland. Another of Norqain’s founders is Ted Schneider, a member of the family that once owned Breitling. Notably, the chief executive of Kenissi is Jean-Paul Girardin, who held the top job at Breitli...
Time+Tide
What does Jean-Claude Biver joining the Norqain board of advisers really mean?
Jean-Claude Biver is a legend in the watch world. He’s fended off the quartz crisis, revived Blancpain, rejuvenated Omega and headed Hublot, TAG Heuer and, later, the entire watch and jewellery division of LVMH. As a result, Biver is considered to be one of the most brilliant minds in the watch industry of all time. … ContinuedThe post What does Jean-Claude Biver joining the Norqain board of advisers really mean? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Blancpain wants you to know that it’s World Oceans Day
In 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms became the first modern dive watch that was readily available to consumers. Tackling the practical requests of French Navy combat swimmers, the original Fifty Fathoms set the default style for modern diving watches by offering guaranteed water resistance, a large 41mm case, a rotating timing bezel and a luminous … ContinuedThe post Blancpain wants you to know that it’s World Oceans Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up?
I’ve just snapped up my very first Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it was not the JLC I expected to buy. When most people think of JLC it is the iconic Reverso that springs to mind. For some reason I’ve always hesitated, with the strange thought that I’m not grown up enough to wear one. This is unexplainable, … ContinuedThe post Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
At Watches & Wonders 2022 Vacheron Constantin introduced watches in a diverse range, but sandwiched in between the artisanal decoration and complications was a new addition to the Historiques collection of vintage remakes. An unexpected launch given that Vacheron Constantin (VC) already has a luxury-sports watch in its lineup, and largely focuses on dress watches and complications in any case, the Historiques 222 was nevertheless a highlight amongst the new launches, especially given the current appetite for such watches. But the 222 is more than just something that caters to today’s fads. It is a sympathetic remake that manages to incorporate substantial, hidden improvements while preserving the look of the original – but not the feel thanks to a significantly improved bracelet. Initial thoughts As the Overseas has long matured into an established collection amongst VC’s offerings, the return of its predecessor is surprising. My initial reaction was that it is confusing to offer two different luxury sports watch models simultaneously, but it makes sense given that the 222 is a Historiques model, a vintage remake in other words. Not only does VC have a track record of reviving vintage models in style, the 222 can cater to an audience that seeks something more elegant and compact than the Overseas. It’s likely that the return of the 222 was a deliberate decision on VC’s part to create a luxury-sports watch that is different. Of the three luxury sports watches ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command delivers new pilot’s chronographs under 37mm
Blancpain’s Air Command series is getting two new options for the range in titanium and red gold. They’re smaller than the previous 42mm-plus sized versions we are used to, and are being marketed as more “feminine”. But these watches could be great for anyone seeking vintage-esque dimensions, or who, like me, usually prefer watches on … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command delivers new pilot’s chronographs under 37mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Timex jumps onto the Stranger Things’ 1980s bandwagon with new capsule collection
Given that nostalgia often feels like the dominant mode of inspiration for modern watchmaking – heritage reissue, anyone? – Timex’s collaboration with Stranger Things makes perfect sense. For anyone who grew up in the 1980s, the Netflix show is a retro bonanza. Set in 1983, the show focuses on a tight-knit group of kids in the … ContinuedThe post Timex jumps onto the Stranger Things’ 1980s bandwagon with new capsule collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style
Eschewing the influence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Danièla And Philippe Dufour: They Like It Complicated (Video)
The Watches TV presents a follow-up video of Danièla and Philippe Dufour, marking close to a year of the two working together. Philippe expresses his joy at working with his daughter, who is in a perfect position to achieve the high level of work that the master requires for his timepieces and carry on the family name.
Time+Tide
The Collector’s Crossroads – How do you work out whether to stick or twist?
Let’s set the scene. You walk into the boutique, knowing today is the day. The wallet is about to get a little lighter, and a spot in the watch box will be filled – but you’ve got a great excuse. Whether you’re celebrating your birthday, a promotion or Heimlich Manoeuvre Day (no joke, look it … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads – How do you work out whether to stick or twist? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Match made in heaven: Six brilliant watch collaboration between watchmakers, manufacturers, craftsmen or designers
When people come together, brilliant things happen. The same goes for watches, especially watch collaborations between incredible people in their field.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #9 “German Watch Manufactures”
There are definitely more than 10 of them, but for this week’s crossword let’s see how well you know German watch manufactures that deal in varying levels of price points. Good luck!The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #9 “German Watch Manufactures” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations
It’s easy to throw the phrase “museum quality” around when talking about haute horology timepieces, as a multitude of brands are capable of the high-art techniques required to earn that label. However, no matter how many time-consuming handmade techniques a brand perfects, only a brand like Vacheron Constantin are able to reproduce actual historical artworks … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Cartier Crash merch is becoming as impossible to snag as the watch
The Cartier Crash is really having a moment, spotted on Kanye West and Tyler the Creator. But now even Crash themed merch is selling out.The post Cartier Crash merch is becoming as impossible to snag as the watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hubi Hurkacz may have just lost at the French Open, but he won in wrist-wear…
While Hubi Hurkacz may have just lost in the fourth round of the 2022 French Open, he lost in style - wearing a Gerald Charles GC Sport.The post Hubi Hurkacz may have just lost at the French Open, but he won in wrist-wear… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S
The first battery-powered watch, and the one that graced the famous wrists of Elvis, Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones – still doesn’t quite sum up the Hamilton Ventura for me. Throw in a line about its military-derived styling somehow combined with stepped Art Deco-like lugs, and we’re getting somewhere. Today, the Ventura is no … ContinuedThe post Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The revolutionary design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the first true steel sports watch
Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week, it’s the Audemars … ContinuedThe post The revolutionary design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the first true steel sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury
Mr McUtchen, a.k.a McSteamy, continues to leave me green with envy stateside. His latest escapades abroad include having an oceanside chat with actor Patrick Dempsey on all things TAG Heuer in Monaco for the Grand Prix – which he got to enjoy in a private box as well. It’s good to be the king… As … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire
Having already designed its own El Primero limited edition, Phillips has collaborated with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches each powered by a cal. 135-O. The movement was the specially-regulated variant of Zenith’s flagship chronometer wristwatch movement of the mid-20th century, conceived solely to participate in observatory chronometer contests. As such, the movements were never cased and sold, until now. Contained in a platinum case, the movements were light decorated by Voutilainen, which also supplied the guilloche dial via its dial making subsidiary Comblemine. Initial thoughts The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a good looking watch. It’s evidently modelled on the vintage model and doesn’t change too much of the original design, but instead injects a few elegant details that give it more refinement, like the guilloche chapter ring. These discreet flourishes are enough to set it apart as a higher end watch than the vintage original, which are more of a functional precision chronometer. More broadly, it’s a three-way collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to different degrees. For Phillips, the Observatoire is a sensible collaboration since it chimes with its strength in selling both vintage and modern watches at the top end of the price spectrum. And it also a perfect base for the auctioneer to utilise the discerning eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs a...
Time+Tide
Swatch celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee with “How Majestic”, a colour-changing watch
The British royal family has endured another calamitous year. Prince Andrew cemented his position as a global embarrassment after settling his sex abuse case out of court, Megan and Harry polarised the nation with their self-serving interview on Oprah, and it’s barely a year since Prince Phillip died. As an institution, the monarchy appears increasingly … ContinuedThe post Swatch celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee with “How Majestic”, a colour-changing watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen
Precision chronometry is the ultimate test of any manufacture’s mettle. To win and set records at Observatory competitions not only results in a highly coveted award for a manufacture, but also a highly coveted timepiece for collectors to acquire. Herein lies what makes the Zenith calibre 135-0 so legendary in the world of horology. From … ContinuedThe post Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend
The first rule of half-arsed journalism is that if something happens twice it’s a coincidence and if it happens three times then it’s a trend. On that basis the theme of the past week has been bronze-cased watches with blue dials. Along came the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue, followed in quick succession with the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087
The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history, as this brand with so many achievements is never short of watches to be celebrated. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Oris takes us on a trip to the past with the Hölstein Edition 2022
In the town of Hölstein, 118 years ago, Oris was founded. Since then, the brand has been a darling of collectors, championing the idea of making watches for people of every persuasion. With mantras such as robustness, dependability and affordability, it’s no wonder the brand continues to see success. As a celebration of how far … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris takes us on a trip to the past with the Hölstein Edition 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: MB&F; LM Sequential EVO
MB&F; has just rolled out its very first chronograph, which becomes the second model in its EVO line of sports watches that began with the LM Perpetual EVO, now the brand’s bestselling watch. Christened the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, the new chronograph continues with the same aesthetic of an open dial that reveals the mechanics along with a streamlined case. The LM Sequential EVO is most interesting for its movement, which is paradoxically complicated yet simple. Developed by Stephen McDonnell, a constructor who’s been a longtime collaborator with MB&F;, the movement is a double chronograph capable of recording twin times simultaneously along with a “Twinverter” mechanism that can either operate both chronographs or invert them – a complicated endeavour. But the setup is a simple one, essentially two discrete chronograph mechanisms that operate independently but linked by the inverter mechanism. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the LM Sequential EVO when I first saw the watch. It is a big, imposing watch with sleek lines and a wide face that is filled to the edges with intricate mechanics and quadruple sub-dials packed tightly together. Despite its size, the watch wears well due to the shape and length of the lugs, while looking like a grand complication on the wrist. And once I understood that it was a double chronograph, I was even more impressed; it looks even more complicated than the top contenders in the category, namely the Lange Triple Split and Au...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968
Heritage revivals are all the rage right now, and the manufacture that really kicked off the trend was Longines – the entire heritage collection range is devoted to digging into their rich archives and resurrecting their historic designs. From the Heritage Military to the BigEye Avigation Chrono to the Legend Diver (among others), their heritage … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The evolution continues with the new Rado Captain Cook Chronograph
The Rado Captain Cook. As one of the brand’s bestselling lines of watches, the Captain Cook does a great job of showcasing what Rado can do. Interesting use of materials? Check. Amazing, vibrant dials? Check. All this accomplished while staying at a reasonable price point. And for years now, the line has continued to slowly … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The evolution continues with the new Rado Captain Cook Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The MB&F; LM Sequential EVO incorporates two chronographs in one watch
Watchmaking at times can be very predictable and with brands often merely switching up colourways in their latest novelties there is not always as much shock and awe as we would like. Not MB&F; though, you can always count on the independent manufacture to keep you guessing and make the jaws of horological die-hards hit … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The MB&F; LM Sequential EVO incorporates two chronographs in one watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.