Deployant
Review: Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Special Edition SPB455
We took a close look at the newly released Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver's Special Edition SPB455, and bring you this comprehensive review.
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Deployant
We took a close look at the newly released Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver's Special Edition SPB455, and bring you this comprehensive review.
Monochrome
There’s already plenty said about the Black Bay collection and its effect on Tudor as a brand. Yes, it’s a gargantuan success and yes it’s home to countless iterations by now, and more will likely come further down the line. From its humble beginnings in 2012 with the release of the Black Bay Burgundy 79220R […]
Fratello
On Monday night, Swedish pole vaulter Armand “Mondo” Duplantis set a new world record and won an Olympic gold medal. Both of these achievements could be considered the pinnacle of any athlete’s career, yet with Duplantis, it feels like the opening chapters of what will undoubtedly be a long and illustrious biography. Watch fans worldwide […] Visit Omega Unveils A New Titanium Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Ultra Light On The Wrist Of Olympic Gold Medallist Mondo Duplantis to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Blancpain range of vintage inspired dive watches grows to include a pair of top-of-the-line models, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and Chronographe Flyback, both in 18k red gold with a matching red gold bracelet. Previously available only with a fabric strap, the new duo feature a gradient blue dial with a sun-ray finish and a matching blue ceramic bezel insert. Initial thoughts First released in 1956 as a more compact version of the Fifty Fathoms, the Bathyscaphe was reissued as a sportier and smaller sibling of the modern-day Fifty Fathoms. The Bathyscaphe line encompasses complications and various materials, including the recent all-ceramic models. The new pair continue to extend the line in terms of materials; they are the only models in the entire Fifty Fathoms range with a matching gold bracelet. The all-gold look is of course not for everyone, but the new pair have an extravagant appeal, particularly the chronograph that looks and feels like an ultra-luxe sports watch. The all-gold look, however, comes at a price. Both are cost US$55,300, which is far from the accessible price point of their all-ceramic counterparts. The price is arguably justified by Blancpain’s easily discernible quality, though the brand lacks the cachet of its peers in the same price segment, which makes these high-end models a very niche offering. The red gold models are also available with a fabric strap. Fully red gold Both the Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and Chr...
Fratello
Seiko caught us by surprise when it reintroduced the King Seiko name back in January of 2022. The journey began with five dial variants in a 37mm case. I loved these so much that I immediately ordered one for myself. Now, two-and-a-half years on, Seiko proves that the collection is here to stay. The range […] Visit Introducing: The New King Seiko KSK 6R 3 Days 36mm In Three Preppy Colors to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
We’ve gone hands on with the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10, and after a week with this piece on the wrist, here’s what we think! What We Love: Its undeniable wrist presence! Unique in-house movement with 10-day power reserve The Meccano-inspired design elements What We Don’t: Is large and won’t suit all wrists Clasp can irritate the wrist a little if the strap is too loose Not as versatile as other Hublot offerings Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This is the first time that I have personally had the opportunity to review a piece from Hublot. Yes, I’ve worn them before and had many times to play around with them, but never in a capacity where I’m actively putting pen to paper (So to speak) and sitting down and writing my thoughts on them. It’s a different exercise doing this compared to just wearing the watches and appreciating them for what they are and enjoying them. I mean, how many times do you sit down and write 2000 words on your daily wearer? It makes you think differently about it, especially as you try and put yourself in someone else’s shoes who may be considering a new purchase. No pressure at all! The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10. Big, blue and beautiful! Having had a fair bit of exposure to Hublot over the last few years, I’ve come into this review with a little more knowledge than had I done this prior, and as I’ve discovered time and time again, the more knowledge you have around...
Monochrome
Seiko’s announcement in 2020 heralding the return of the long-slumbering King Seiko created a stir. As our readers will remember, Grand Seiko and King Seiko sub-brands were the result of an interesting experiment to promote competition between the Dani Seikosha (Grand Seiko) and Suwa Seikosha (King Seiko) watchmaking facilities. Pitched as internal rivals in the […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
MeisterSinger, famous for its single-hand display, continues to iterate on its signature design. Despite the limitation of a single-hand movement, the German brand has proven to be very creative and versatile. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has pleased watch enthusiasts with calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hours, power reserves, and more, all in its own style. This month MeisterSinger is back with the Special Edition №3 watches and bright blue accents.
Worn & Wound
Ever since humans began exploring the ocean’s depths, watch companies have been creating timepieces capable of withstanding the pressures of SCUBA diving. In the 1950s and 60s, companies like Blancpain, Rolex, and Omega raced to create watches with the greatest water resistance. However, a small collaborative brand outdid them all with a watch capable of reaching a depth of 1000 meters. It took Rolex well into the next decade before they made a watch that could go beyond that. One of those collaborators was Ollech & Wajs, and the legendary timepiece was named the Caribbean 1000. Roughly thirty years later, when the internet was still in its early stages, if you were searching the web for dive watches, there’s a good chance you came across New Old Stock (NOS) Caribbean 1000 watches by Ollech & Wajs or Jenny. In its heyday, O&W; produced nearly 10,000 watches per year. There were still quite a few unused watches available, and collectors were thrilled to have access to them. Despite barely surviving the quartz crisis of the 1970s, Albert Wajs remained in charge until 2017, when the brand was sold to Charles Le Menestrel. Since then, the brand has been revived with reimagined models from the past, such as the Caribbean. To celebrate its 60th anniversary, O&W; is launching the most authentic reproduction of the original Caribbean 1000 to date, the C-1000 A. From its short, triangle-shaped lugs, affectionately referred to as ‘Vampire fangs’ by collectors, to its narrow 12...
Teddy Baldassarre
Japan’s Citizen Watch Company marks 100 years of watchmaking in 2024, and some of its most noteworthy recent timepieces provide ample proof that, despite being in business for a full century, the brand’s drive toward forward-thinking technology and avant-garde design has not yet started to slow down. Take for example the Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T, unveiled in Fall of 2023 - which is the culmination of 30 years of Citizen’s pioneering work in the field of radio-controlled atomic timekeeping. It is the first light-powered watch with a fully analog moon-phase display, and the first moon-phase that requires no manual adjustments whatsoever from the wearer thanks to its high-tech movement, Eco-Drive Caliber H874, which receives signals from six multi-band radio transmitters. The name “Tsuki-yomi” is derived from a Japanese phrase meaning “reading the moon,” and also refers to a moon god from ancient Japanese mythology, while the “A-T” is an abbreviation for “Atomic Timekeeping.” For the ingenious Eco-Drive movement, which runs to an astounding accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, Citizen’s designers developed a special mathematical formula that calculates the exact position of the moon on each day of the year by using the radio transmission signals from the world’s atomic clocks. The watch’s dial is also a distinguishing feature: its surface is enhanced with a textural lunar landscape motif of craters, moondust and lakes that is “bold yet subtle en...
Fratello
One of the most anticipated track and field events closed up the first week of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. I’m talking, of course, about the men’s 100-meter finals. Though more than a few exciting gold-medal events occur throughout the two weeks, few get as much attention as this one. Thanks, perhaps, to the once-in-a-generation […] Visit Looking Back At All The Omega Speedmaster Olympic Games Special Editions to read the full article.
Deployant
Audemars Piguer releases 3 new Royal Oak Offshore Models, viz a selfwinding in 37mm, and a selfwing and a gchronograph in 43mm.
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, when Dutch independent brand Holthinrichs announced their new Signature Collection, we thought it was one of the most impressive new projects in indie watchmaking. It represented a bold shift for the brand, moving from complex, bespoke watchmaking to something more easily repeatable and at a more approachable price point. With advances in manufacturing capabilities, the new and less expensive Signature Collection actually represents a vision of watchmaking far closer to what brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs had always intended. It was, and remains, an exciting story for fans of the brand, but after seeing Holthinrichs steadily create watches that are more and more ambitious in recent years, we’ve kept hope alive that the brand hadn’t completely abandoned their goals of creating something truly high end and in-house. Now, on the heels of the Signature Collection comes word of a new project within Holthinrichs that would appear to fill the void of truly high end watchmaking that was left when the brand transitioned to their new model. Holthinrichs Haute Horlogerie provides an outlet for the brand’s most ambitious ideas, and the first watch under this new banner, the Ornament Nouveau, is unlike anything they’ve attempted previously. Like every watch Holthinrichs has made, the defining characteristic of the new piece is its sculptural design. But with the Ornament Nouveau, those ideas have been manifested not just in the case and dial design, b...
Monochrome
As a platform dedicated to fine watchmaking and a deeply rooted passion for independent watchmaking, the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (or AHCI) is very close to our hearts. This institution, preserving the traditions of watchmaking by forming a community of watchmakers, was founded by Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese. It has brought forth many illustrious […]
Fratello
The Fifty Fathoms family from Blancpain has already crossed the line from tool watch into wrist grails for most of us. This was already a fact with rising prices years ago and symbolizes for many the change in how we perceive wristwear. By nature they are all instruments to tell the time, and any reference […] Visit Introducing: Two New Versions Of The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe In Grail-worthy Gold to read the full article.
Monochrome
MeisterSinger has made the single-hand time display its signature design feature, which some might view as limiting creativity. However, this German company has consistently proven otherwise. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has introduced various exciting series that incorporate calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hour displays, and power reserves, all while preserving the brand’s original spirit. Furthermore, MeisterSinger […]
Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet balances tradition and adventurousness in its new trio of summer-themed Royal Oak Offshore watches.The post New summery Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore trio exhibits the brand’s distinct strength appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A limited edition that is classic Cartier in terms of style, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is elegant but whimsically different. The Rewind retains the exact same dimensions of the standard Santos-Dumont “Large” model, but is unique in two ways. The more obvious is the dial, which is carnelian, a brown-red mineral stone with a nuanced colour. Less obvious at first glance is the reversed hour track around the dial that complements hour and minutes hands that track anticlockwise – hence “Rewind”. Initial thoughts The Santos-Dumont Rewind captures the traditional Cartier style, but with a twist. As a result, it’s more than a standard Santos-Dumont, but not too much. Most of its defining elements are not apparent at a distance, so it’s fairly subtle. Everything is just right, and makes for a compelling watch. Although this is the Large model (rather than the Extra Large that I personally prefer), the platinum case has a good heft. The bright colour of the metal also contrasts well with the dark red carnelian dial that reveals interesting shading up close. The grain of carnelian is more subtle than the mineral stones commonly found in watches, particularly malachite and lapis lazuli. This suits the low-key complication well. As for the hands that go backwards, it takes some getting used to. The complication is clearly pointless, but appealing because it has an elegant simplicity that suits the watch. The Rewind costs US$38,400, which is fair enough for a wristwatch w...
Quill & Pad
Gary Getz (aka GaryG) was interviewed recently for The Horology Club of Hong Kong. In these two videos, Gary explain how he got into watch collecting and shares some of his favorite watches and why they are special to him.
Hodinkee
The star of the upcoming F1 film and his off-book IWC.
Hodinkee
The Wanna Buy A Watch? founder shares some of his favorite vintage watches and a few thoughts on a lifetime of dealing.
Worn & Wound
A thing you discover about watch collecting after being involved in the hobby for a little while is that it’s a truly international endeavor. This manifests itself in a number of ways. The geography of the watchmaking industry is obviously something that’s discussed frequently, with Swiss, German, Japanese, and American styles of the craft all taking slightly different shapes. But even more than that, practical matters like the availability of watches to actually purchase has a lot to do with where you are in the world. Just last week, we told you about a pair of new limited edition Grand Seikos made just for the US market, and today we have a similar story about a Seiko diver for sale exclusively in Europe. Regional releases strike again. The Seiko Prospex SPB473 would have caught our eye regardless, but something about it being vaguely forbidden if you happen to live in America makes it all the more appealing. Now, realistically, this watch won’t be that hard to track down if you really put some effort into it. There are all kinds of ways an American customer can obtain a watch made for a foreign market. Proxy buyers, the pre-owned market, and simply calling up a dealer and asking if they’d consider an international sale are all viable options. But if it really is the thrill of the hunt that makes watch collecting exciting and rewarding, have those few extra hoops to jump through could actually be welcome for some. The SPB473’s key feature is a beautiful grad...
Fratello
It’s no surprise that I am a fan of the Doxa Sub line of watches. My first new Swiss-made watch was a Doxa, though it was not one of the iconic cushion-cased designs. Today, I’ll go through four of Doxa’s key dive-watch offerings and hopefully help you determine which one is right for you. When […] Visit Which Doxa Sub Is Right For You? to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Rolex had never called out to Joshua Munchow as a watch that he must have or that would be the pinnacle of his collection. He thinks that this is because of the downsides to it being the most widely known watch brand in the world: forgeries and overexposure abound. So what is it about 2015's Rolex Day-Date 40 that turned him into a convert? Read on to find out.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s oversized sports watch line-up gains a pair of entry-level models with the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 37 mm and 43 mm. While the current versions in the catalogue are the colourful (and polarising) Music Edition, the new duo are no-frills with clean designs and muted colours. The 37 mm model combines light grey with 18k pink gold, while the 43 mm model is stainless steel and blue. Both feature “rubberclad” bezels for a more robust and sporty finish that harks back to the original Offshore Rubberclad of some two decades ago. Initial thoughts While some recent Royal Oak and Offshore launches felt over the top in design, the new Selfwinding pair op to keep it simple. They preserve the key elements of the design, namely a chunkier case with crown guards, but keep the styling clean. The low-key design is attractive, especially for someone who wants an Offshore without any of the fuss. That said, the rubber-covered bezel means the signature Royal Oak finishing is absent, though the covering makes it arguably more resistant to bumps than metal. Although the Offshore has often been a testing ground for different materials, such as carbon composite, ceramic, and rubber coating, the designs usually retain a metal alloy bezel finished with the high-end polishing technique traditional for the Royal Oak that results in the trademark play of light on the contrasting finishes. Rubberclad The 18k pink gold model is compact at 37 mm in diameter and 12.1 mm thic...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Reviewing the Timex Standard 40. Check out original photography, specs, and insights from an owner along with alternative recommendations.
SJX Watches
Mechanical escapements remain the most fascinating and enticing field of horological study even in the 21st century. At its core, an escapement has a simple purpose: restore lost energy to the oscillating organ while regulating the discharge speed of the going train – thus allowing for time measurement. Straightforward as the concept is, executing an escapement well is a completely different affair. The escapement is perhaps the element of the mechanical movement that has undergone the most iterations since its invention. The reason is simple: escapements were, and remain, imperfect systems. In fact, the escapement is often the least efficient aspect of a mechanical movement in terms of energy transfer. That’s why watchmakers and engineers have devised innumerable variants in the search of the ideal escapement. Explaining escapement efficiency In physics the efficiency of a system is the proportion of useful work done relative to the total work done by said system. The result, measured as a percentage, speaks to the energy conserved within the system. For example, an 80% efficiency means that 20% of the total available energy is lost, with the remaining 80% usefully conserved. That said, an efficient escapement isn’t necessarily chronometrically-potent, since there are more criteria, apart from energy conservation, which reflect in a movement’s accuracy. The way in which escapement parts impulse to the balance, the proximity of the equilibrium point and the deg...
Deployant
A quick survey of sport chronographs to enjoy the Olympic games, either as a spectator or to emulate the athletes and engage in the sporting activities.
Time+Tide
Usain Bolt and Andrew McUtchen talk racing, watches, music and, beer in Ibiza in our first episode of the Watches And podcast. The post The secret to Usain Bolt’s success could have been scoliosis? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Summer is a time for adventures. For many of us, summer is synonymous with holidays, travels and sunshine. While basically every watch enthusiast will have his definition of the perfect summer watch, one style in particular makes a lot of sense; the functional, water-resistant sports watch with GMT function. Ready to cross borders, capable of […]
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