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Auction Watch: Enamelled Automaton Masterpieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned Oct 5, 2021

Auction Watch: Enamelled Automaton Masterpieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong Sale is primarily focused on wristwatches, encompassing several unique Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned by Eric Clapton and a dozen examples of early F.P. Journe. But two of the most valuables lots in the auction – and with estimates well into seven-figure US dollar sums – are a pair of museum-quality automata. Made for the Chinese market more than two centuries ago, this pair of objects are tremendously rare and exquisitely decorated in enamel and pearls. Two generations ago, such automata as well as pocket watches were the most respected genre in watch collecting. They were sought after by eminent collectors like the former chairman of HSBC and the German billionaire who was once the fifth-richest man in the world, which is why the record-setting lots in watch auctions of that era were inevitably pocket watches or objects, like the million-dollar Cremsdorff. Almost 400-years old, this pocket watch made by Jehan Cremsdorff sold for £2.175m, or about US$2.734m, including fees, at Sotheby’s in 2019 With the rise of wristwatches as the preeminent collecting category, demand for automata and pocket watches have declined sharply. Now the most expensive timepiece ever sold is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A mega-complication that sold for over US$33 million in 2019. But elaborately enamelled pocket watches are arguably the closest thing to fine art in horology, because of the intrinsic nature of the artisanal dec...

Vacheron Constantin Realises a Connoisseur’s Exquisite Vision SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Realises Sep 27, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Realises a Connoisseur’s Exquisite Vision

Eight years in the making, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer is a masterpiece in the truest sense of the word. Reflecting the owner’s taste that is inclined towards the subtle, elegant, and artisanal, the watch is seemingly simple on the front, yet intricately decorated on its circumference and immensely complicated within. But the true art of the watch sits on the hinged case back, which bears a magnificent miniature enamel painting by Anita Porchet that reproduces Vermeer’s ethereal Girl with a Pearl Earring. The idea for this uber pocket watch was first mooted by the owner in 2012, before being formally commissioned in 2013 during the Watches & Wonders fair in Hong Kong. Asked about his motivation in commissioning the watch – and waiting nearly a decade – the owner says, “I wanted to have a watch made, cost-and-time-no-object, that incorporated the ultimate in art – miniature enamel by the greatest practicing enameller – with the most difficult and sublime complication, the true Westminster sonnerie – and that alone – not counting the tourbillon escapement, which to me isn’t a complication.” “No such watch existed prior in the history of watchmaking,” he adds, “The watch came out more magnificent and monumental than I had imagined.” And that pretty much sums up the Vermeer pocket watch, which is unquestionably one of the greatest creations ever to emerge from Les Cabinotiers, a wo...

EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? Time+Tide
Sep 26, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world?

EDITOR’S PICK: “Audemars on my wrist, bustdown. We poppin’ bottles like I scored the winning touchdown….” As Meek Mill demonstrated in I’m a Boss, rappers have long held a deep fascination with luxury watches. But given their massive followings and proclivity for namedropping brands in their lyrics, do hip-hop’s big names influence consumers’ buying habits. To … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bollinger R.D. 2007 Champagne: Recently Disgorged, Ready To Drink Now, And Likely To Get Better And Better Quill & Pad
Jun 15, 2021

Bollinger R.D. 2007 Champagne: Recently Disgorged, Ready To Drink Now, And Likely To Get Better And Better

Bollinger’s latest release, the 2007 R.D. or, more specifically, the 2007 “Récemment Dégorgé” (“Recently Disgorged”), is the house's flagship wine. It is still early days for the 2007 R.D., and it is perhaps not exhibiting anything like the truffle and mushroom notes that should come in the years ahead. But Ken Gargett thinks it's already great to drink now and rates it 97/100.

Bell & Ross Unveils the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Unveils Jun 9, 2021

Bell & Ross Unveils the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic

First introduced exactly a decade ago, the BR 01-92 Red Radar was one of the brand’s first wristwatches to reproduce a fighter jet’s instrument display, using a red-tinted sapphire crystal and rotating discs to create a dial resembling a flight radar display. A striking and clever idea, the flight-radar time display was unique even amongst the numerous aviation-instrument watches of Bell & Ross (B&R;). Now B&R; is revisiting the concept with the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic, which once again features a radar display but now in the more wearable BR 03 case. Initial thoughts On the surface, the new BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic isn’t especially novel. The ceramic case is essentially the same used for last year’s BR 03-92 HUD, while the radar display is modelled on the 2011 original. However, the new Red Radar is a clever rendition of the idea, and a substantial improvement over the earlier version. For one, the case is now 42 mm, making it significantly more wearable than the 46 mm original. And the original also had a black-coated steel case – which typically shows wear and tear as the coating separates from the metal below – while the new model has a ceramic case also that’s scratch-resistant and generally more durable, meaning it will seem pristine even after years of use (though hard knocks or drops can chip or crack ceramic). And the new Red Radar has a more practical dial design than its predecessor, which had hands printed to mimic the sweep of a radar scan, ...

Custom Bovet Watches for the Rolls-Royce Boat Tail SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux having just announced Jun 8, 2021

Custom Bovet Watches for the Rolls-Royce Boat Tail

Having just debuted its Coachbuild division where spare-no-expense bespoke automobiles are built, Rolls-Royce revealed the very first car to roll off the Coachbuild production line – the Boat Tail. Reportedly priced at US$25 million – and reputedly sold to Jay-Z and Beyoncé – the Boat Tail is a yacht-sized convertible with a built-in cocktail bar. Likely the most expensive car today, the US$25 million automobile is delivered with a champagne chiller, tea towels, and crystalware – and a pair of unique Bovet watches that double up as dashboard clocks. The car is painted in the clients’ favourite shade of blue Best known for its elaborate, double-sided watches, Bovet created a pair of watches for the Boat Tail’s husband-and-wife owners. The two timepieces required some 3,000 hours of work for both development and execution according to Bovet. The two timepieces are based on the Amadeo, Bovet’s signature wristwatch that can be converted into a pocket watch – or mounted on the Boat Tail’s instrument panel – a nod to the brand’s history as a leading maker of ornate pocket watches for the 19th century Chinese market. Initial thoughts Collaborations between watchmakers and luxury automobiles manufacturers are common, with Girard-Perregaux having just announced a partnership with Aston Martin and Richard Mille signing with Ferrari last year. Most are a good match in terms of position, with some exceptions like the longstanding tie-up between Breitling and ...

Milléchron Introduces Vaucher-Powered Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Ming Feb 24, 2021

Milléchron Introduces Vaucher-Powered Diver’s Watch

A longtime watch enthusiast based in Singapore, Benjamin Chee founded his own brand almost a decade ago. Established as Millésime, the brand focused on classical and affordable watches, but it has since evolved into one that’s dedicated to more upscale timepieces. Now renamed Milléchron, the brand has just introduced its sophomore sports watch, the Monarque M. Retaining the slim dimensions that characterise Milléchron’s dress watches, the Monarque M is a dive watch rated to 200 metres that’s powered by the latest iteration of Vaucher’s micro-rotor movement. The Monarque M is being launched in two guises, the Saffron with a resplendent yellow dial, and the all-black Stealth Initial thoughts Mid-priced independent watchmaking below the US$10,000 mark is becoming a crowded segment. A few notable names in the same field offer something apart from the mainstream while being strong value, like Habring² for instance. However, their watches tend to be traditionally styled, and few have attempted a dive watch. That makes the Monarque M an exception. The watch has clearly taken inspiration from mid-20th century dive watches, but the design is clearly modern. Mr Chee describes the design as “fantasy vintage, where I take the best parts of certain vintage watches I love, and create a new watch that never actually existed but would have looked great.” Crucially, Milléchron is working with several specialists synonymous with high-quality components to put together th...

Longines Remakes  the 1950s Silver Arrow SJX Watches
Longines Remakes Feb 10, 2021

Longines Remakes the 1950s Silver Arrow

Named after the aluminium-bodied Mercedes-Benz Formula 1 cars of the 1950s, the Longines Silver Arrow was introduced in 1956. Typical of mid-20th century gentlemen’s watches, the Silver Arrow is a functional but elegant design with a discreet flourish in the form of fluted hour markers. Notably, the Silver Arrow was first reproduced about a decade ago, but with a date and simpler execution all around. Now it returns as a more sophisticated remake that is far closer to the vintage original, but with a latest generation ETA movement equipped with a silicon hairspring. Initial thoughts Like the brand’s other recent remakes, the Silver Arrow maintains the look and feel of the original, albeit enlarged as most reproductions are. The dial has the details of the original, as does the thin case and even the crown. Longines’ Heritage remakes are often modelled on military-issue or sports watches, resulting in a strongly utilitarian aesthetic. The Silver Arrow is different, offering another look while still preserving the strong value of Longines’ historical remakes. Priced at US$2,100, the Silver Arrow will be difficult to beat in terms of classical watches in its price segment. Silver Arrow redux The silver dial features unusual, fluted indices just like the vintage original. That, along with the sword hands and correct typography create a faithful replica of the 1956 Silver Arrow. As is standard practice, the remake is larger than the original, although the new Silver Arr...

Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special SJX Watches
Blancpain has made it Jan 15, 2021

Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special

Breguet, as well as its sister brand Blancpain, has made it a habit to introduce a Valentine’s Day edition each year. They are typically variations of existing ladies’s watches that have been dressed up with extra mother of pearl or diamonds; they are rarely interesting mechanically. But for Valentine’s Day 2021, Breguet has the Reine de Naples Cœur 9825 up its sleeve, and it is a surprisingly interesting watch. Presented in the familiar egg-shaped Reine de Naples case, the Cœur edition (coeur is “heart” in French) is inspired by 18th century “expanding hands” pocket watches. Initial thoughts Breguet is capable of many impressive complications – demonstrated by watches like the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 – but they are rarely quirky. Though inspired by historical pocket watches, the Reine de Naples Cœur is clever and original. The repeated use of hearts throughout the design feels a bit affected – the five-minute markers are all tiny hearts – but the watch remains graceful, with a subtle complication that isn’t immediately apparent. Although no photos of the movement are available yet, the cal. 78A0 inside is almost certainly constructed and decorated to a high level, as all Breguet watches are. The fact that it’s limited to just 28 watches is a bit of a shame, especially considering the reasonable price tag of just over US$46,000. Expanding hands Pocket watches with “expanding hands” were invented sometime in the earl...

INTRODUCING: Bovet’s high-impact collab with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is a wrist-bound serotonin hit Time+Tide
Bovet Dec 16, 2020

INTRODUCING: Bovet’s high-impact collab with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is a wrist-bound serotonin hit

To celebrate their 70th birthday, luxury watch retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons have released a limited-edition watch with Bovet. The distinctive black and yellow design of the resulting watch is certainly eye-catching. But what makes the Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and Bovet 19Thirty Dimier U.A.E Limited Edition such an intriguing proposition? Well, to understand the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Bovet’s high-impact collab with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is a wrist-bound serotonin hit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Dec 3, 2020

INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic

If there is any single watch to lovingly blame for the craze of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, it’s the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. When initially launched in 1972, it wasn’t the beloved reference it has become today – in fact, many people were confounded by its introduction, especially given its hefty price … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster) Time+Tide
Oris Dec 1, 2020

How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster)

Limited-edition collaborations in the watch industry are growing in popularity in 2020. We wanted to dig a bit deeper and get some behind-the-scenes insight on the sumptuous new hook-up between Fratello Watches and Oris. We can really only liken this combination to a glass of Bordeaux in a rich golden goblet for the wrist. I … ContinuedThe post How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers “Bid for the Louvre” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Nov 27, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers “Bid for the Louvre”

Having restored one of the Louvre’s most important timepieces – La Création du Monde, an 18th-century astronomical clock owned by King Louis XV – Vacheron Constantin subsequently announced a three-year partnership with the Parisian museum last year. The very first collaborative project between the watchmaker and museum has finally arrived: Les Cabinotiers “Bid for the Louvre”. A one-off timepiece that will feature a miniature of a work of art in Louvre selected by the client – who will chose it during a private tour of the museum – the watch will be sold at Bid for the Louvre, an online auction at Christie’s that takes place from December 1-15. Other luxury brands as well as contemporary artists have also contributed items to Bid for the Louvre, and all proceeds from the auction will go to the museum. The courtyard of the Louvre with the famous glass pyramid designed by I.M. Pei Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art watches are decorated with varied artisanal decorative techniques, but they are almost always exceptionally beautiful. The dials are sometimes intricate, sometimes delicate, and occasionally elaborately ornamental, but always executed to a high level, by both the brand’s in-house artisans as well as independent specialists like Anita Porchet. In fact, many of the Métiers d’Art watches feature dial work finer than comparable watches from the competition. What makes the Louvre watch special is the opportunity to rep...

Sinn Introduces the 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Nov 18, 2020

Sinn Introduces the 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC

Alongside the unusual R500 “bullhead” chronograph, Sinn’s new debuts for the year include a pair of entry-level “tool” watches. The Series 105 is comprised of two models – 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC – that are reminiscent of classic pilot’s watches, but in a clean, modern style with a dial populated by geometric shapes. Both are dual time zone watches, but executed differently. The 105 St Sa UTC is similar to a traditional GMT watch, having an additional 24-hour hand as well as a 24-hour rotating bezel. More unusual is the base model 105 St Sa, which has a bezel with two separate scales – 12-hour and 60-minute markings – that allows for measuring short elapsed times as well as tracking a second time zone. 105 St Sa (left) and 105 St Sa UTC Initial thoughts Starting at €1,350 for the base model, and rising to €1,790 for the UTC on a steel bracelet, the 105 is a value buy that manages to differentiate itself from the numerous “tool” watches in the same price segment. It has roots in Sinn’s Pilot Watch 104 – the brand’s long-standing, entry-level aviator’s watch – but the 105 is different enough to make it stand out. To start with, the dial design is simple but smart. The base model, for instance, manages to incorporate a day and date display in a symmetrical manner, preserving both legibility and balance. At the same time, the colours are unusual, especially the white and orange combination that is just as functional but avoids the all...

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Oct 24, 2020

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is famous for his frowning moon “face”, an instantly recognisable emblem of contemporary watchmaking. But he also makes more affordable watches under the S.U.F. Helsinki label, which recently launched the S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin, a cartoon watch that is seriously good. Created to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Moomin, a series of books and comics by Finnish author Tove Jansson, the Moomin watch is based on the S.U.F. 180, a fuss-free three-hander that’s inspired by vintage military-issue watches, but dressed up with a three-layer dial hand painted in multiple shades of Super-Luminova. Even in moderately low light, the dial glows in technicolor glory – that alone is worth the modest price of admission. Initial thoughts The S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin is different and compelling, but easy to wear and put together notably well. Specifically, the dial and case are executed to a high level. The dial is three layers, and then hand finished and hand painted, while the case is a slim but robust construction that is finished skilfully. And the Moomin watch retailed for €5,000, or about US$5,900 – making it excellent value for money. The quality and detail of the dial – think of it as affordable metiers d’art – is especially outstanding for the price. Admittedly, Moomin has no particular resonance for me – and won’t for anyone who isn’t a fan of the comic – but the dial in itself is appealing. It’s qu...

Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes… Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2020

Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes…

This year has been remarkable in many ways. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve said to myself, “Well, I never thought I’d see that happen in my lifetime.” Despite these surprises, the watch industry has demonstrated a remarkable stability. Sure, we lost a few trade shows. But there was also a regular flow … ContinuedThe post Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Introduces the Swatch x BAPE Big Bold 2020 SJX Watches
Swatch Aug 5, 2020

Swatch Introduces the Swatch x BAPE Big Bold 2020

One year after the launch of its first collaboration with Japanese streetwear label A Bathing Ape (BAPE), Swatch has just announced the second edition of the Swatch x BAPE Big Bold. A limited edition of unknown quantity, the new line up is made up of three models, plus a more exclusive box set that Swatch has teased about but not yet announced. From left: Tokyo Black Multi Camo, Tokyo Grey Multi Camo, Tokyo White Multi Camo Initial thoughts The first Swatch x BAPE edition was made up of six watches, each dedicated to a different city, along with a sixth “global” model – resulting in six truly distinct designs, making the whole set desirable. On the other hand, the new edition pays homage to Tokyo, the birthplace of BAPE, and all three watches have the same design, namely a stamped camouflage pattern on the dial, making it arguably less interesting as a trio. The monochromatic dials accentuate the large 47 mm diameter, which is further emphasised by the copious negative space in the lower half of the dial. Though not as daring in terms of design as the first edition, the new Swatch x BAPE collection will probably be well received thanks to its affordability and fun styling. Tokyo White Multi Camo with copper dial and matching pin buckle Round two The new Swatch x BAPE watches are identical, except for the colours of the case and dial. The case is 47 mm and matte plastic, with the crown at two o’clock and an integrated silicon strap. The trademark BAPE camouflage...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020 Time+Tide
Seiko SPB151J Aug 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020

Last year, Seiko fans around the world had a collective skipping of heartbeats when the Japanese firm announced the release of the SLA033. This was no normal Seiko dive watch. As its full name suggests, the Seiko Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition SLA033, is a watch inspired by one of the most iconic Seiko dive watches … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The (Not So) Complete Story Of Rock And Roll And Watches: Ramp The Volume Up To 11! - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 20, 2020

The (Not So) Complete Story Of Rock And Roll And Watches: Ramp The Volume Up To 11! - Reprise

The mechanical watch works just like a metronome, with its isochronic balance maintaining a steady rhythm and the delicate tick-tock of its pallet jewels providing a rhythmic beat to our oft-frantic lives. If we ramp up the power and swap the metronome for a drum kit and a few electric guitars we have rock and roll! But which watches do rock-and-roll icons wear?

Interview: Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot SJX Watches
Hublot Though he runs one Jun 2, 2020

Interview: Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot

Though he runs one of the world’s most high-profile watch brands, Ricardo Guadalupe is less flamboyant than many of his peers. But the 30-year veteran of the watch industry has grown the brand into one of the world’s ten biggest watchmakers measured by revenue, making him one of the most successful leaders in the industry. A longtime deputy to the larger-than-life Jean-Claude Biver – though he is now the boss, Mr Guadalupe still acknowledges his mentor often – he took charge of Hublot in 2012 after his former boss was tapped to run the watch division of LVMH. During his tenure, Mr Guadalupe not only continued Hublot’s sales growth, but also substantially expanded its manufacturing capability – a feat that is often overlooked and underrated. That was made possible in part by a career that has taken him from product development to manufacturing, allowing him to develop an all-encompassing grasp of the business, explaining how Hublot manages to produce both its own movements – and its own proprietary, bright-red ceramic. I spoke to Mr Guadalupe during LVMH Watch Week earlier this year, where he discussed his measured and practical approach to delivering consistently excellent performance and product, exemplified by the years-long evolution of Hublot’s signature Big Bang into the Integral. The interview was edited for length and clarity. You guys did a really good job with the new Big Bang Integral. It’s difficult doing a nice bracelet, but you managed it. ...

Omega release summer-fresh new 43.5mm Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup Edition on integrated rubber strap Time+Tide
Omega release summer-fresh new 43.5mm May 19, 2020

Omega release summer-fresh new 43.5mm Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup Edition on integrated rubber strap

With the announcement that Omega will be the official timekeeper of the 36th America’s Cup comes the release of the brand new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup Limited Edition. The watch is presented on an eye-catching integrated rubber strap with red lining and contrast white stitching. The 43.50mm Planet Ocean is offered in … ContinuedThe post Omega release summer-fresh new 43.5mm Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup Edition on integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Ellen DeGeneres Vs. Trevor Noah, a toe-to-toe bout inc. Rolex, AP and Patek Time+Tide
Rolex AP May 6, 2020

CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Ellen DeGeneres Vs. Trevor Noah, a toe-to-toe bout inc. Rolex, AP and Patek

Ring the bell, Celebrity Watch Death Match is back for another round of mayhem, and this time we’re squaring off two of Tinseltown’s most talented anchors, both of whom demonstrate an aficionado’s taste in timepieces – Ellen DeGeneres and Trevor Noah. These talk show hosts are known for interviewing some of the world’s biggest celebrities … ContinuedThe post CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Ellen DeGeneres Vs. Trevor Noah, a toe-to-toe bout inc. Rolex, AP and Patek appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: William Wood The Red Watch Time+Tide
Mar 8, 2020

HANDS-ON: William Wood The Red Watch

Emerging watchmakers face the near-Sisyphean task of standing out in a sea of low-budget options all vying for market dominance and social media influence. When William Wood’s founder Jonny Garrett launched a crowdfunding campaign to commemorate his grandfather’s heroics in the British Fire Service, the passion in the story clearly resonated with the thousands of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: William Wood The Red Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Ice and Freak X Magma SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Mar 6, 2020

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Ice and Freak X Magma

Launched a year ago, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X is the entry point to brand’s landmark Freak collection. The Freak X dispenses with the idiosyncrasies and innovation of its predecessor – though it still boasts a large, high-performance balance wheel in silicon – but makes up for it with a streamlined case and notably affordable price tag. Already iterated into numerous variants, the entry-level watch now available in two additional versions, the Freak X Ice and Freak X Magma. Diametrically opposed in aesthetics, both nonetheless share the same specs: a 43 mm case with gently tapered lugs and most notably for a Freak, a conventional crown, which makes the Freak X more practical all of its larger, crown-less predecessors. Perhaps the more sedate of the two, the Freak X Ice is the first all-white Freak, apart from the experimental Freak nExt concept watch. The Freak X Ice is dressed entirely in matte, brushed metal and matte white. The case is brushed titanium, while the bezel is titanium coated in matte white. And the dial is also matte white, with the central bridge, fixed ring gear and hour wheels in brushed, rhodium-plated brass, creating a contrast against the dial that emphasises the carousel. On the other hand, the Freak X Magma is all about striking contrast of textures. The case is a carbon-fibre composite that is made up of carbon fibres with a red polymer, creating a strong and light material that is scratch-resistant – and one that makes a real statement ...

Up Close: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Montblanc Jan 9, 2020

Up Close: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph

Luxury sports watches are a fad that numerous watchmakers are trying their hands at – with varying degrees of success. H. Moser & Cie. is the latest brand to try its hand at a sports watch. While the fact is not a surprise, since the company has been dropping hints about it for over a year, the product is unexpectedly well executed and different. Limited to 100 pieces but with future variants in the works, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is a “bull’s head” chronograph with the buttons at two and ten o’clock and a “racing” style dial. The Streamliner is characterised by an unusual cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet, creating a design that brings to mind watches of the 1970s and 1980s, but still manages to be novel in the crowded luxury sports watch segment. Importantly, Moser also got the functional aspects of the watch right: the case is water-resistant to 120m, and the chronograph pushers can be operated underwater to the same depth. The Streamliner on the wrist of Moser CEO Edouard Meylan Fond memories Designed by Marcus Eilinger, a freelance designer whose recent work includes watches for IWC, Montblanc and Huawei, the Streamliner brings to mind interesting, maybe even great, watches of the past that are now forgotten, so it looks fresh. Edouard Meylan (left) with designer Marcus Eilinger. Photo – H. Moser & Cie. While Streamliner’s case is reminiscent of chunky 1970s chronographs made by the likes of Omega, Heuer, and Longines, the integ...

Book Review: ‘Patek Philippe In America: Marketing The World’s Foremost Watch’ By John Reardon Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Dec 16, 2019

Book Review: ‘Patek Philippe In America: Marketing The World’s Foremost Watch’ By John Reardon

This richly illustrated coffee table book weighing close to two kilograms is both an invaluable reference tool and a fascinating read. The chapters do not scrimp in detailed information, expert opinion, and rich historical illustrations: even the book’s structure points are a pure joy to read or simply thumb through. Elizabeth would recommend it heartily for anyone with even a passing interest in the subject and here's why.