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Results for White Gold vs Platinum

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Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions

The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross. Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal. Initial thoughts This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion. I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually. The Patrimony Self-Winding duo Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date. Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial. Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism. This 4 Hz movement platform has a relat...

Ulysse Nardin Review: A Complete Guide to the King of Marine Chronomet Teddy Baldassarre
Ulysse Nardin Aug 2, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Review: A Complete Guide to the King of Marine Chronomet

Since its founding in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has long been regarded as the standard bearer of nautical timekeeping, a historic watchmaking maison whose very name conjures up romantic images of seagoing adventure and oceanic exploration. However, here in the 21st century, Ulysse Nardin is also known in watch connoisseur circles as one of the most technically innovative and boldly experimental watchmakers on the scene, beginning with the bombshell introduction of the Freak in 2001. How did this intriguing brand achieve both these distinctions and how does it continue to pile up accolades in the modern era? Read on for a complete guide to the history, evolution, and diverse timepiece portfolio of today’s Ulysse Nardin. Foundations in Chronometry Like many inhabitants of Switzerland’s Jura Mountain region in the 18th and 19th centuries, Léonard-Frédéric Nardin took up the trade of watchmaking largely out of economic necessity, to supplement his family’s farming income during the cold, snowbound winter months. He passed that horological savoir faire on to his son, Ulysse, who proved to be an apt pupil and honed his own horological skills further under the tutelage of two of the region’s most talented and revered watchmakers, Frederic-William Dubois and Louis JeanRichard-dit-Bressel. In 1846, at the young age of 23, Ulysse Nardin (above) established his own watchmaking workshop in his hometown of Le Locle, where the eponymous company is still headquartered today. Ulysse ...

Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium Feb 16, 2021

Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium

When Longines first remade a 1970s pilot’s chronograph as the Avigation BigEye Chronograph, it was well received for being a faithful re-interpretation priced affordably, as most other Longines reissues are. While the 2017 model was a dead ringer for the vintage original, Longines has just facelifted the watch, giving it a titanium case and gradient blue dial. That gives the Avigation BigEye Titanium more modern look, which along with the upgraded case, results in a steeper price that’s about a quarter more than that of the steel model. Initial thoughts Longines has been hitting it out of the park with its recent remakes – the Silver Arrow, Classic “Tuxedo” Chronograph, and Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial – that are smartly designed and good value, and despite the hike in price, BigEye Titanium is no exception. While the steel BigEye had a utilitarian look like the 1970s original, the titanium version is decidedly more contemporary. The gradient blue dial is bold, and also fashionable today, with a sandblasted texture adding further visual intrigue. I like the juxtaposition of the black sub-dials against the blue gradient finish, though the faux patina on the hands and indices might be a bit too affected, especially with the modern look. Despite the tweaks, the BigEye Titanium retains the same legible design, thus preserving the historical raison d’etre of its design. Another notable feature is the titanium case, which makes the new BigEye the brand...

Titanium and Fresh Colorways Collide as Straum Expands Its Jan Mayen Arctic Collection with a New Limited Edition Capsule and Permanent Pieces Worn & Wound
Apr 2, 2026

Titanium and Fresh Colorways Collide as Straum Expands Its Jan Mayen Arctic Collection with a New Limited Edition Capsule and Permanent Pieces

Today, two of Straum’s core concepts come alive in a new twist on the Jan Mayen Arctic collection, now in titanium for the first time in addition to stainless steel. The four original colors, in both titanium and stainless steel, now become part of the brand’s permanent catalog. Plus, there’s the debut of an entirely new dial colorway. Last year, we saw the expansion of the brand’s offerings with the classic Jan Mayen design rendered in lightweight titanium as well as the unveiling of four thoughtful and stunning Arctic dials. By now, you probably well know I’m a sucker for a mesmerizing dial design, especially one with a story and deeper meaning behind it. The brand’s limited edition capsules of Arctic dials tick all those boxes. The inspiration draws from Straum’s Norwegian roots with a subtle and abstract interpretation of the country’s natural beauty through intentional use of texture and color to elicit the feeling of the landscape rather than something too literal. We’ve previously seen four editions, each handsome in their own right: one reflecting the bold hues of the Aurora sky; one called Alpine Glow, fading from the crisp blue frost of the mountains fading to a light pink sunset; Meltwater Teal, which quite literally mimics a waterfall cascading down the dial thanks to the perfect execution of ombre white to teal; and lastly, the most understated among the bunch called Tundra Brown with a bronze tone. In addition to a new metal – swapping tit...

SJX Podcast: Indie Investments and Odysseus Face-Off SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s initiative Jan 16, 2026

SJX Podcast: Indie Investments and Odysseus Face-Off

The SJX Podcast kicks off 2026 with an analysis of the latest industry news, including Chanel’s 30% stake in Kross Manufacture and Vacheron Constantin’s initiative to apply the concours d’elegance format to watches. We also discuss the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Honeygold ahead of an upcoming review, and compare its merits with its titanium sibling. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Omega Speedmaster MK40 Review: A Colorful Cult Classic Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Dec 16, 2025

Omega Speedmaster MK40 Review: A Colorful Cult Classic

When you think of the Omega Speedmaster, the first thing that comes to mind is likely the brand’s golden child, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. It’s a modern grail with its NASA connection, and its intertwined history with the Moon landing and space exploration is its calling card. But today, we’re looking at a different Speedmaster that has been eschewed from Omega’s current lineup. One that’s a little more playful, a little more unconventional, than the brand’s well-established Moonwatch Professional formula: the Speedmaster Mk40. Down below, I’ll be breaking down the history, context, and all the aesthetic oddities of the watch, all of which work together to create one of the most compelling non-Moonwatch Speedmasters of all time, in my humble opinion.  [toc-section heading="Some Speedmaster Context"]  Image: S.Song From first glance, the Speedmaster Mk40 that made its debut in the ‘90s defies all the utilitarian, tool-watch-oriented austerity that is the key DNA of the Moonwatch Professional, from its functionality to its experimentation with color, shapes, and typography. But the Mk40 is part of a short-lived and often forgotten legacy of Omega’s experimentation with the Speedmaster formula, before things were so rigidly codified as they are today. It is also important to note that the moniker “Mk40” itself is a completely enthusiast-driven nickname, which Omega itself has never officially used (the brand denotes the different models wi...

SJX Podcast: Freak Face-Off: Original vs. Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak – how does Oct 27, 2025

SJX Podcast: Freak Face-Off: Original vs. Freak S

On Episode 16 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss ongoing horology events in Paris and Singapore, and debrief on the new Piaget Andy Warhol. It’s also the debut of a new segment comparing two watches head-to-head. First up is the Ulysse Nardin Freak – how does the original, now 25 years old, stack up to the new Freak S? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35MM Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35MM Back Dec 25, 2023

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35MM

Back in the 1950s when you were setting off for a distant land, a key piece of gear would be your trusty tool watch. Today, you’d reach for something like a Rolex Explorer II with its chunky steel case and bezel, bold handset and healthy application of lume. A Seiko SPB143 would make an excellent option on a tighter budget where other spendy gear takes priority. The point I’m trying to make is that the tool watch as we know it is today typically something big, chunky, robust, and borderline aggressive looking. The landscape for tool watches was completely different back in the 50s. If you were one of the American Navy’s Deep Freeze 1 task force and on your way to the South Pole back in 1955, the watch you would have been wearing is significantly different from the modern tool watch. That watch would have been the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - a slim, art deco-inspired watch that was built tough, but not in the way you may think of it today. The Deep Freeze 1 task force’s mission was to establish a permanent base at the South Pole - one of the Earth’s most severe and ice-laden landscapes - and they needed to choose a timepiece that could withstand the conditions.  Today we’re looking at the faithful modern recreation of the Antarctic. The 35mm case stays true to the original’s dimensions while retaining the robust construction, including anti-shock and anti-magnetic properties. Let’s take a closer look and see if the new Antarctic lives up to its vintag...

Vivified Air: Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Collection with New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Mar 21, 2023

Vivified Air: Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Collection with New Dial Colors

Human flight has long been an inspiration and a momentous force within Fortis’ history. Dating back to as early as 1929, Lady Grace Drummond-Hay completed the world’s first circumnavigation in a Zeppelin LZ127 – on her wrist, a Fortis Harwood. In 1995, Fortis was also a part of a record-breaking flight that took aeronautical photographer, Alexandre Paringaux, to an altitude of 30,045m, reaching speeds as high as Mach 3.13 in a Mig-25 PU. Around that time, Fortis had also released their first-ever Flieger, aptly named the Sky-watch. Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Petrol Inspired by the functional designs of the B-Uhr harkening back to WWII, the Sky-watch had all the tell-tale features of a traditionally designed pilot’s watch – can’t miss Arabic hour numerals, triangular 12 o’clock marker, and sword hands. Up until today, particularly the use of a black dial, splash of orange accents, and sickly green markers and hands, that design has largely remained unchanged. Recently, Fortis has injected some color into their entire Flieger collection with an array of different dial colors giving their pilot’s watch a new-found contemporary energy. Fortis Flieger F-39 Petrol First up in the Fortis fleet, we have the Flieger F-39 and F-41 sporting three new dial colors: Black, Petrol, and Liberty Blue. The difference that immediately stands are the markers and hands that no longer have the faded luminova shade. Instead, they’ve been whited out, but still remain legible a...

Hands On: Patek Philippe’s Celestial Goes to Space SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Celestial Goes 5 days ago

Hands On: Patek Philippe’s Celestial Goes to Space

Perhaps the most surprising launch from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 was the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001. The ref. 6105G arrives over a decade after its predecessor, the ref. 6102 (2012), which in turn replaced the ref. 5102 (2002). While the prior model was an incremental evolution over the original, the ref. 6105G is a drastic redesign with its spaceship-inspired aesthetic and 47 mm (!) white gold case that wears unexpectedly well. The ref. 6105G is also an upgrade in mechanical terms with the addition of an elegant and simple sunrise and sunrise display that’s smartly implemented on the date ring, and driven by a clever compliant mechanism. And the ref. 6105G has another trick up its sleeve, a mechanism that accounts for summer and winter time (also known as daylight saving time), which shifts the time display as well as the date ring backwards or forwards as the seasons change. Initial thoughts Put simply, the ref. 6105G is weird but cool. Some of Patek Philippe’s recent experiments with design have been so-so in attractiveness, but the ref. 6105G scores well, maybe even the best amongst the brand’s adventurous designs. It’s unlike any other Patek Philippe ever with its huge case and integrated rubber strap, but it is appealing. Even though the star chart complication is a historical one descended from the Henry Graves Jr. “Supercomplication”, it feels like a perfect match for the sci-fi case. The case is huge at 47 mm, but the ...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 30, 2026

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

A. Lange & Söhne has repeated last year’s bifurcated release format with the launch of the compact, value-oriented Saxonia Annual Calendar alongside the flagship Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. Available in both 18k white and pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar is not a limited edition, but will be made in small numbers as a consequence of the brand’s diverse portfolio and limited output of about 5,000 watches per year. Initial thoughts The Saxonia Annual Calendar was one of the more talked-about watches of the fair, not because it’s particularly novel or exciting, but instead because it gets all the small things right. It looks good on the spec sheet, with nearly perfect dimensions, the brand’s signature big date complication, and an upgraded and well-dressed automatic base calibre. But as good as the Saxonia is on paper, it’s even better up close. The brand’s typical alpha-shaped hands — common to all Lange models — are brilliantly sharp, and the dial text is finely printed. A detail I especially like on the white gold model is the nearly tone-on-tone typography for the ‘Made in Germany’ text, which is something I’d like to see more of from the brand. A new aesthetic detail is an additional facet at the outer end of each hour marker, effectively creating a tiny pyramid, akin to Cote de Paris. This design appears to be a subtle nod to the previous generation of the Saxonia, which featured baton indexes punctuated with gold stu...

Watches & Wonders: the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns with a New Case Size and Caliber Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns with a New Case Size and Caliber

A. Lange & Söhne had one of my, and many others’, favorite releases at Watches & Wonders 2025. It wasn’t a super complication and had no bells-and-whistles. Rather, it was simple and small. The 34mm 1815 three-handers in white or rose gold exemplified confident, understated luxury like no other watches at the fair. For 2026, Lange has brought back a watch that had been out of production with a new movement and in a new, smaller size, following suit from last year’s release. Unlike the 1815s, these feature one of the less common complications in the Lange catalog: the annual calendar. The Saxonia Annual Calendar was a very cool watch. It combined its eponymous complication with Lange’s signature outsized date and was powered by a since-retired “Sax-0-Mat” three-quarter-rotor automatic movement. These funky movements were featured in the Langematik watches and represented Lange’s first foray into automatic calibers. In addition to a distinctive look, they featured a hidden complication: zero-reset seconds, meaning that when the crown was pulled out, the seconds hand would jump to zero. In 2011, the Sax-O-Mats began to be replaced by central rotor calibers with up to 72 hours of power reserve, an increase from 46 hours, but the zero-reset seconds disappeared. Though comprising many different calibers, most of Lange’s currently in-production automatics have a central rotor. I am unsure when the previous generation of the Saxonia Annual Calendar went out of pro...

Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Celestial Ref 6105G Apr 14, 2026

Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off

Patek Philippe updates its star chart “Grand Complication” for the third time with the Celestial Sunrise Sunset Ref. 6105G. The ref. 6105G adds the time of sunrise and sunset – cleverly integrated into the date scale – and a daring new design with a formidable, space-age lug-less case in white gold that’s 47 mm across. The ref. 6105G also introduces a novel way to account for the transition between summer and winter time, adding a corrector that shifts the sunrise and sunset scales, solving a significant shortcoming of astronomical watches for users in Europe and the Americas. Initial thoughts I’ve long thought that Patek Philippe’s greatest strength, other than its massive industrial investments, was its remarkable design diversity. Today brands seem to pursue a unified design language across all of their watches. And while this result is a strong visual identity for the brand, it is extremely limiting. Patek Philippe has no such limits, and the brand has about two dozen different case styles in the current collection, and hundreds in its back catalog. While this leads to its fair share of design misses, at least to my sensibilities, it can also lead to striking successes. I’m sure many will disagree, but I see the new Celestial as the latter. A wristwatch with the time of sunrise and sunset is long overdue from Patek Philippe, and this watch adds the ability to adjust those indications to account for daylight savings time. This addresses the complication...