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Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week Time+Tide
Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe Apr 27, 2022

Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week

It’s easy to understand the dangerous appeal of online auction platform, Loupe This. For a start, it’s co-owned by internationally renowned watch dealer / super-collector, Eric Ku (read this story about his crazy life here). As a result of his know-how and connections, the product on offer is always intriguing. “What we want to do, is … ContinuedThe post Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 Sotheby’s just Apr 27, 2022

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499

Sotheby’s just concluded the first sale of the spring auction season, which now moves to Geneva with a series of auctions in the Swiss city starting the first weekend of May. The season opened strongly with several records set at Sotheby’s, most notably with The Nevadian Collector, a sale of Patek Philippe timepieces all owned by an American collector. Made up of 38 watches and one lot of vintage Gay Freres bracelets, the auction was led by an unsurprising favourite that sold for a record price – the possibly unique ref. 2499 in pink gold with a dial signed “Gobbi Milano”. Sotheby’s consultant Sam Hines bringing the hammer down on the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” Four telephone bidders competed for the watch, with bidding swift and aggressive. One of the bidders went big early on, taking the bid from HK$19 million to HK$30 million with one bid – an increment of about US$1.4 million. Eventually one of the phone bidders triumphed and set the record for the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction. The pink ref. 2499 “Gobbi” hammered for HK$50 million, resulting in a total of HK$60.265 million including the buyer’s premium. That’s equivalent to about US$7.68 million, making it the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction by some margin. The last record holder was the ref. 2499 “Asprey” that sold in 2018 for about US$ 4 million at Sotheby’s in Geneva – which was also sold by the Nevadian. While the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” was the headline lot,...

MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 26, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders

We’re a couple of weeks removed from Watches and Wonders and I’ve had enough time to recover from all the spicy salami and new watch releases. I’ve thought about the 100+ watches that I spent a few minutes with, in the hope of identifying those that left a lasting impression. And truly, there were some … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This SJX Watches
Cartier Apr 25, 2022

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This

Online-only watch auctioneer Loupe This has just announced a week of Cartier watches, with two watches being listed daily from April 25 to 29. The lineup is headlined by an original Crash made by Cartier London in 1969 that comes direct from the original owner no less. It has an appropriate hefty estimate of US$500,000-800,000. London Crash Some of the other highlights in the sale include a trio of white-metal Tanks, including a Tank Asymetrique in platinum, one of a hundred made in 1996. Estimated at US$30,000-50,000, it’s smaller than the recent Prive Tank Asymetrique, with dimensions comparable to the classic Tank LC, which is the next watch. Tank Asymétrique This is a rare variant of an otherwise common watch. Produced for several decades in a range of iterations, the Tank Louis Cartier, or “LC”, is commonly found in yellow gold, but less often in white gold, and rarely with a period-correct bracelet. Dating to the 1970s, this has an estimate of US$20,000-30,000. Tank LC Another Tank from the 1970s is this Tank Cintree “Jumbo”, also in white gold and once again with a matching gold bracelet. This is the largest size of arguably the most desirable Tank model, but made slightly more affordable by the fact that it was made in the 1970s instead of the first decades of the 20th century. The estimate is US$50,000-80,000. Tank Cintree The first pair go live on Monday, April 25, Los Angeles time (GMT-7), which will be April 26 for most of the world. You can see them...

Nivada Grenchen Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” SJX Watches
Nivada Grenchen Introduces Apr 25, 2022

Nivada Grenchen Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel”

A brand that went defunct during the Quartz Crisis like many of its peers, Nivada Grenchen was resurrected in 2020, again like many of its peers. While the historical brand was perhaps best known as one of the earliest makers of the automatic wristwatch, Nivada Grenchen now offers affordable, vintage-inspired watches that seem straight out of its old catalogue. The brand’s signature product is a 38 mm hand-wind chronograph modelled on a 1960s original, which now gets an Eastern Arabic makeover with the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” Limited Edition Set. Made for the eponymous Dubai watch store, the watch is packaged in a box that includes a leather watch case and Chronomaster Only, a reference book detailing the history of Nivada. Initial thoughts If you like vintage-style chronographs, Chronomaster is an appealing proposition in its original form, thanks to the restrained case size that’s identical to the vintage original. And the Sellita movement inside means the Chonomaster is an affordable entry into the world of retro, hand-wind chronographs, which is admittedly crowded with many, many comparable options. But this version is slightly different. Typical of Perpétuel editions – and reflecting the store’s regional focus – the Chronomaster gets Eastern Arabic numerals for he dial and bezel. Though such numerals have become relatively common and predictable on Middle East editions, this is noteworthy for two reasons. One is the fact that all the numerals on ...

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Apr 25, 2022

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Review

The Watch That Changed My Mind On TAG! What we love: Comfortable and easy to wear, light for its size and specsBang for buck in finish, movement and specsGood looking design with vintage ques What we don’t love: Wears on the larger size for a 42mm mainly due to its heightNoisy movement and winding rotor (some may like this though)Some wearers may find the dial harder to read at a glance with the lack of contrast in the numerals Overall rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5 / 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Tag Heuer has always been one of those brands that never grabbed my attention. I always saw it as a watch brand that was a little overpriced, and like a lot of brands, you’re paying for more marketing than the watch itself. Now, I have owned a Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer01 in the past, so I’m not adverse to TAG at all, but it has since moved on to make way for others in my collection. So when I had the opportunity to get my hands on the new 60th Anniversary limited edition Autavia Flyback Chronograph, I was looking forward to road testing the latest iteration of the distinguished Autavia line. A Short History Lesson Before we go any further, let’s take a step back and in case you’re not familiar with the Autavia model and its history, here’s a quick refresh. The Autavia wristwatch collection, the first product launched under the leadership of Jack Heuer 60 years ago, got its name from two pillars of TAG Heuer’s history: Automobile and Av...

A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models Time+Tide
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models Apr 24, 2022

A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models

Named after Czapek’s third boutique – as it was the third collection released by the brand – the Czapek and Cie Faubourg de Cracovie is the company’s take on an integrated chronograph. It follows the brand ethos of intricately finished dials in vivid colours, and the Purple Panda and California Blue models we look at … ContinuedThe post A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter Concentrically Apr 23, 2022

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful

Rarely has the term sports watch been as appropriate as when applied to the BR 03-94 Multimeter from Bell & Ross. This nifty chronograph displays five different scales on the dial to measure various things. In that sense, it is a modern-day version of the vintage chronographs with “snail scales” that did the same, though not in such an elaborate way.

The Royal Oak pricing strategy in 1972 was absolutely wild Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Georges Golay Apr 23, 2022

The Royal Oak pricing strategy in 1972 was absolutely wild

If you were ever wondering what started the stainless-steel sports watch craze we find ourselves in today, none of it would have been possible without one particular watch – which recently celebrated its 50th Birthday. On April 15th, 1972, Audemars Piguet, Georges Golay, and Gérald Genta would forever change the luxury sports watch segment – … ContinuedThe post The Royal Oak pricing strategy in 1972 was absolutely wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 Super-Cool Yet Relatively Affordable Timepieces From Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Apr 21, 2022

6 Super-Cool Yet Relatively Affordable Timepieces From Watches And Wonders 2022

Most of the timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2022 were from the higher end of fine watchmaking as most of the participants constitute the haute horlogerie maisons of the world. There were however a few notable exceptions – notable and affordable. Here Łukasz Doskocz highlights some of the showstoppers from the Palexpo halls that will hopefully not break your bank.

Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the Extraordinary Lucomorye Clock SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Unveils Apr 21, 2022

Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the Extraordinary Lucomorye Clock

While better known for his ingenious and quirky wristwatches, Konstantin Chaykin’s roots are in clockmaking, large, complicated, and ornate clocks to be exact. Six years in the making, his latest timekeeper is the Lucomorye Clock, a testament to the Russian watchmaker’s aesthetic vision and mechanic prowess. Lavishly decorated with gemstones and precious materials by renowned Russian jeweller, Ilgiz Fazulzyanov, the Lucomorye Clock has a fairytale exterior. But perhaps more significant are the fascinating mechanics centred on a remarkable way of displaying the hours – a chain wraps around a drum to display to form of Roman numerals that change with the time. The simplicity of the chain belies the mechanical complexity within, which is naturally patented. Initial Thoughts Mr Chaykin’s rise to fame internationally started with the Joker, a whimsical wristwatch with an amusing “rolling eye” display. But though the Joker and its successors remain Mr Chaykin’s bestsellers, they are not the best representation of his creative and mechanical genius. His talents are illustrated best with clocks, which have no limitations in terms of size, allowing for intricate complications impossible on a small scale. Amongst his most notable clocks is the series of Easter-themed clocks that he released annually starting in 2005, each with a complication to indicate the date of Orthodox Easter – an unconventional and rare complication due to the complexity of calculations req...

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Bronze Brown Limited Edition Time+Tide
Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Bronze Apr 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Bronze Brown Limited Edition

As a materials expert, Hublot has done it all. Steel, titanium, carbon, proprietary precious alloys, and ceramic and sapphire in endless colourways. So, to say that there is now an opportunity to grab a watch from Hublot in an uncommon material may come as a bit of a surprise. But, the truth is Hublot does … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Bronze Brown Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The trimmed down Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Apr 16, 2022

INTRODUCING: The trimmed down Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm

For the last two weeks, the watch world has been transfixed by the “new”. New watches. New collections. Even new movements. And in such times, it’s easy for a brand to fall into this desire for novelty. But that isn’t the case for the young brand Norqain. For them, doing something new for the sake … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The trimmed down Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers Repeater Apr 16, 2022

Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater

Taking place every two years in Venice, Homo Faber is an exhibition dedicated to craftsmanship of all forms, ranging from glass to porcelain to fabric. Because its organiser is the Michelangelo Foundation established by Johann Rupert, the plain-speaking chairman of Richemont, several of the Swiss group’s watchmakers are taking part. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is presenting a pair of one-off striking watches at Homo Faber – the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeaters Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”. The watches each recreate one half of Wind God and Thunder God, a pair of folding screens made by 16th century Japanese painter Tawaraya Sōtatsu that depicts the titular gods of Japanese mythology. Initial thoughts Owned by a temple in Kyoto, the folding screen is a National Treasure of Japan, a cultural object deemed so important by the Japanese government that it cannot be exported. The screen is certainly a worthy subject for a high-quality miniature, and Vacheron Constantin appears to have done justice to it. The dial decoration is perfect for a repeater, since the brand’s cal. 1731 minute repeater movement is relatively large, resulting in an expansive dial that is usually blank. It’s an ideal canvas for artisanal decoration. Vacheron Constantin’s enamel work, whether in house or done by independent artisans like Anita Porchet, is usually impeccable. The repeater dials definitely look the part. In fact, the miniatures of the gods are im...

50 years ago: The story of Apollo 13 and the Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Anyone who has Apr 16, 2022

50 years ago: The story of Apollo 13 and the Omega Speedmaster

Anyone who has encountered the Omega brand is no doubt familiar with the Moonwatch and possibly the most compelling and historically significant story behind a watch of all time. Strapped to the wrist of Buzz Aldrin, the Omega Speedmaster became the first watch to be worn on the moon during the Apollo 11 mission. But … ContinuedThe post 50 years ago: The story of Apollo 13 and the Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: “The Nevadian Collector”, a Spectacular Single-Owner Collection of Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Apr 15, 2022

Highlights: “The Nevadian Collector”, a Spectacular Single-Owner Collection of Patek Philippe

The flagship event at Sotheby’s upcoming spring watch auction in Hong Kong is The Nevadian Collector. Focused on historically significant Patek Philippe references, the compact but valuable sale is the closing act of a notable collector based in California. Having started collecting over 30 years ago, the “Nevadian” became a major figure in vintage watch collecting after selling his media business in the mid 1990s. Now in his eighties, the gentleman’s collection was once some 400 watches, a number that has been gradually pared down in recent years. It included several timepieces that set priced records in recent years, including the ref. 2499 signed “Asprey” that sold for almost CHF4 million in 2018 and another ref. 2499 signed “Tiffany & Co.” that sold for the equivalent of US$3 million later that year. Another of the Nevadian’s watches: the crisp, third series ref. 2499 in pink gold with a “Tiffany & Co.” dial that sold for HK$23.5m, or US$3.00 million, in 2018, becoming the most expensive watch sold at auction in Asia that year Made up of only 40 lots – but with a cumulative value of US$15 million at the low estimates – the sale takes place in the evening of April 25, 2022, starting at 8:00 pm (GMT +8). Bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The upcoming auction represents the last of the Nevadian’s watches, but considering the depth and breath of the collection, the line up unsurprisingly encompasses many spectacular, import...