Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique For Only Watch
The lauded independent watchmaker brings a striking new movement to a stainless steel case for this year's charity auction – and likely beyond.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and The Horophile Collaborate on a Sleek Art Deco Inspired Limited Edition
If you had told me a few weeks ago that Louis Erard’s new collaboration with Amr Sindi, AKA, The Horophile, would be an Art Deco inspired watch with a quite literal approximation of the Empire State Building within the handset, I probably would have let out an audible groan. Not because I don’t have faith in Louis Erard (their run of limited editions over the past few years is basically a parade of nonstop hits) or The Horophile (whose Instagram feed reveals his exceptional taste), but because it just all seems so on-the-nose. Art Deco inspired designs are a pretty niche interest in 2023, but calling out the Empire State Building, perhaps the single most well known symbol of the design and architecture movement as a major point of reference, seems to me like a recipe for something that you’d find in the building’s gift shop. Well, I should have known better. Because the new watch from Louis Erard is beautifully subtle, and surprisingly modern in its sensibility. The Petite Seconde Metropolis incorporates a number of Art Deco hallmarks into a clean design that takes advantage of a Louis Erard platform that we’re starting to see used more frequently. As you might expect given the Art Deco themes, there was a large focus on the typeface used for the hours around the dial’s perimeter. Each numeral is very subtly “openworked,” and they’re presented in an uncommon circular fashion, which mimics the circular motif at the dial’s center. Importantly, these hou...
Worn & Wound
Bravur Releases the La Vuelta III, the Third and Final Leg in their 2023 Grand Tour Series
This past weekend, the cycling world turned its attention to Spain for the start of the Vuelta a España. One the most prestigious Grand Tours, the Vuelta takes riders through the Pyrenees as they race towards Madrid over the course of 23 days. At the end of the race, which consists of 21 day-long stages, the rider with the lowest aggregate time is crowned the winner and wears the famous red jersey. While the watch world is often linked to motorsports, we have seen meaningful partnerships with cycling as of late. To commemorate the start of this year’s Vuelta, Sweden-based Bravur Watches has released its third and final addition to the Grand Tour chronograph series, the La Vuelta III. Housed in a 38.2mm (46.3mm lug-to-lug) PVD-coated stainless steel case, the new Vuelta III really leans into using red accents to both pay homage to the Vuelta lead jersey and establish a distinct aesthetic. The subdials – seconds at nine, hours at six, and minutes at three o-clock – are framed in red and recessed in a lower layer, as is the triangle at twelve o-clock (which Bravur says represents the flag at 1 km remaining). In another nod to cycling, the red band around the edge of the dial is subtly textured to resemble racing tires. Inside beats the Sellita SW511, an automatic chronograph movement that features Côte de Genéve and perlé decoration, rhodium plating, and heated blue screws. Owners can full-send on the red theme by pairing the watch with a red rubber strap or pare ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Automotive-Inspired Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40
Laurent Ferrier and team are bringing the '70s back, with a touch of Porsche and Le Mans history.
Worn & Wound
MB&F; Stuns Again with the Incredible HM9 Sapphire Vision
Back in January 2021, MB&F; released what remains one of my all time favorite watches in the “This is Totally Insane” genre of watchmaking. Regular readers will understand that this is actually one of my favorite genres – one that I wish more in our little world would aspire to, because, really, how many black dialed dive watches does one really need? The HM9 SV, short for Sapphire Vision, is, as described, a vision in sapphire. The design of this watch takes the already bonkers HM9 and essentially cases it in an elaborate array of sapphire crystals, with a metal frame holding it all together. The result is an incredible view of the HM9’s movement, which has two independent balance wheels joined by a central differential that averages out their rates for, in theory, more stable timekeeping. And it’s all arranged in a shape inspired by automotive design dating to the 1940s and 1950s, because this is MB&F;, and that’s what they do. Last week, MB&F; announced new versions of the HM9 SV, which is noteworthy because component for component, this has to be one of the toughest watches to make in the entire industry. The reason, of course, is because of the extensive use of sapphire, which has to be custom made specifically for these watches to very precise tolerances. And every piece of sapphire used in the HM9 SV is curved. MB&F; points out that sapphire cased watches made by some of their competitors are using mostly flat pieces of crystal, held together by screws. Th...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New MB&F; HM9 'Sapphire Vision' In White And Yellow Gold
Now here we go again, we see the crystal vision. But MB&F; isn't keeping the visions to themselves.
![[VIDEO] Watches & the Stories they Keep: Matter of Time x Astor+Banks](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/AstorBank_20ATM_007.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Watches & the Stories they Keep: Matter of Time x Astor+Banks
Watches aren’t exactly a practical necessity these days, and while that element certainly still appeals to some of us, there’s generally something deeper at work that’s provided them with the staying power they’ve enjoyed for the past few decades. We like the way they look and feel, as well as appreciate the mechanical artistry at work under the hood. Further still, we attach stories and experiences to these objects that imbue them with personal meaning and significance to us, many of which we do our best to explore and share in these very pages. Recording and preserving these experiences is the motivation behind a new outfit called Matter of Time, who have teamed up with Astor+Banks to create a run of watches meant to do just that. Matter of Time is a “purpose-driven club” that works a little differently than you might expect. Members are allowed to purchase watches created for the club given they agree to two stipulations: “The member will share and document special experiences on [the Matter of Time website] that they had with the watch through their life together and 2. Within two years, that watch will be given away. Not sold, but given away to recognize somebody’s good deed, effort or accomplishment.” Additionally, 50% of the proceeds of every collection go to a charitable cause. The first effort from Matter of Time is a collaboration with Astor+Banks on the Founder’s Collection. The watch, which is based on the Fortitude, takes inspiration fr...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The First IWC Pilot's Watch With A Fully Luminous Dial
A part of its collaborations with U.S. Navy squadrons, the 41mm Black Aces watch is a new bright dial in the brand's lineup.
Time+Tide
The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces is the brand’s first full lume dial
When asked about pilot’s watches, the first brand I think of is IWC. The brand largely deals in sensible, legible designs, especially when it comes to their pilot’s watches, where such a quality is paramount. Now, we have seen IWC, well-versed in ceramics, create stealthy, black ceramic pilot’s pieces. The dark cases certainly camouflage themselves … ContinuedThe post The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces is the brand’s first full lume dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Reveals the Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023
Having dropped tantalising clues about his creation for Only Watch 2023 a few weeks ago, Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi has finally taken the covers off the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. A unique creation with a brand-new movement, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch with a steel case, one that was inspired by the magnetism-resistant chronometers of the mid-20th century. Its design has clear roots in vintage watches, while the movement features an indirect centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. Initial thoughts About the half the offerings in Only Watch 2023 are from independent watchmakers, but the creations vary tremendously in their originality and effort. Amongst the independents that created genuinely new watches for the event is F.P. Journe, whose Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is the first of a new sports model and likely the only watch ever made by an independent that boasts a tantalum bracelet. At the low-effort end of the spectrum is Moritz Grossmann that added “Only Watch” to the seconds register of a regular-production model and called it a day. The RRCA sits alongside the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu as being impressively original. The RRCA has an newly-designed steel case with a removable outer back and within, a calibre that inherits the distinctive Rexhep Rexhepi aesthetic but is newly developed from the ground up. Even though it is a simple watch with just three hands, the movement is executed in the Mr ...
SJX Watches
The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial
Soon after unveiling the Big Pilot perpetual calendar in white ceramic, IWC is introducing the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 “Black Aces”. While retaining the customary dial layout of the model, the “Black Aces” sports a fully-luminous dial – a first for the brand. The watch gets it name from the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Squadron 41 “Black Aces”, which collaborated with IWC on the watch’s key design elements. Initial thoughts The recent Top Gun watches with coloured ceramic cases have been bestsellers for IWC, though most have been complicated and pricier models. Hence, it is rather pleasing to see IWC do something with the entry-level Pilot’s Watch by giving it a simple yet appealing twist. Instead a run-of-the-mill dial colour, the “Black Aces” gets a lume dial that’s novel for IWC. The full-lume dial, however, is not new to watchmaking, with several brands having such dials for several years now, including Bell & Ross with its pilot’s watches. Beyond the colour, the military provenance and “Black Aces” emblem gives the watch a tangible military link that many of IWC’s fans will like. Notably, this watch contains the cal. 32100. I would have preferred the cal. 32111 that was used in the new Ingenieur instead. Both are essentially the same calibre, but the latter is a higher-spec version of the movement with a longer power reserve of 120 hours, as opposed the 72 hours of the cal. 32100. This movement was presumably used because o...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup – Essential Gear for Photographers
For many people, an affordable Seiko 5 was their first mechanical watch, and the value-packed series holds a special place within the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts all around the globe. And what better watch to carry with you on your photography adventures around the globe. For many people, an affordable Seiko 5 was their first mechanical watch, and the value-packed series holds a special place within the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts all around the globe. And what better watch to carry with you on your photography adventures around the globe. The post The Roundup – Essential Gear for Photographers appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Unique Kari Voutilainen 28Sport
One of the best things about dealing with independent watchmakers is the ability to request unique touches on your watch. That’s just what happened after GaryG's new friend first saw Kari Voutilainen’s Sport28, a titanium-encased watch that itself is quite rare with only eight examples made in total.
Revolution
Unboxing the Cartier Santos Dumont L NSO “Les Flaneurs” Edition
Wei & Constant are excited to unveil the highly anticipated Cartier Santos Dumont L “Les Flaneurs” Edition in steel, a New Special Order project that has been in the making for the past two years. This exclusive edition is a testament to the passion and dedication of the “Les Flaneurs” club, a community of Cartier […]
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Rolex Acquires Legacy Retailer Bucherer, India’s Historic Moon Landing, and the New Observer Collection O.C’s
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Rolex The Crown Expands Their Empire Via Siam Swiss In somewhat stunning watch industry news this week, Rolex announced they have acquired the enduring retailer, Bucherer. Both Swiss companies have been closely working together for nearly 100 years, as Bucherer retailers have served as authorized dealers for Rolex and their sibling brand Tudor. Considering the behemoth that Rolex is, it’s safe to say that the average watch enthusiast has a fair understanding of how The Crown operates. Bucherer however, has a tendency to move in relative silence, so here’s a bit of background. Bucherer is based in Lucerne, Switzerland but has a network of retail stores that span worldwide. They only furthered their reach when in 2018, the Bucherer Group acquired Tourneau, a fellow retailer with rich heritage rooted in the United States. But that’s not all. Bucherer has also built a catalog of in-house brands including their very own line of watches, Carl F. Bucherer. According to Rolex, the opportunity to acquire such a prestigious name came when Jorg Bucherer, the senior lea...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tennis-Themed Rallymaster II Arrives Ahead Of The U.S. Open In New York City
Following in the footsteps of the French Open-themed Rallymaster from last year, the Racquet x Maurice de Mauriac collab returns in blue.
Time+Tide
The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all
“The World Is Yours” Dual Time Zone watch is a tribute to a family heirloom Jacob Arabo received at the age of 13 This two-dialed Wakmann inspired Arabo to aspire to create his own watches, and has informed his designs ever since It utilises a new manufacture calibre JCAA11, and this limited edition release is … ContinuedThe post The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Now in the Shop: Two Dive-style Watches from Seiko For Daily Wear
Dive watches are incredibly popular, and for good reason. Rugged looks, go anywhere specs, and a distinct aesthetic make them one of the most common styles of watch amongst enthusiast circles. A true ISO-spec dive watch is no doubt a valuable tool when diving, but may be overkill for your daily needs. Born from the famous lineup of Seiko’s SKX of the past are the new SKX Sports watches from Seiko 5. We have two new models available in the shop, so let’s take a look at these toned-down dive-style watches that are ideal for daily wear. Dive watches are incredibly popular, and for good reason. Rugged looks, go anywhere specs, and a distinct aesthetic make them one of the most common styles of watch amongst enthusiast circles. A true ISO-spec dive watch is no doubt a valuable tool when diving, but may be overkill for your daily needs. Born from the famous lineup of Seiko’s SKX of the past are the new SKX Sports watches from Seiko 5. We have two new models available in the shop, so let’s take a look at these toned-down dive-style watches that are ideal for daily wear. The post Now in the Shop: Two Dive-style Watches from Seiko For Daily Wear appeared first on Worn & Wound.
![[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Watches](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/Tudor_FXD_redbull_019.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Watches
When Tudor began teasing a new release over the summer, paired with a countdown clock planted in the wake of a passing boat, speculation quickly ended up in the usual places. A new steel BB58? A GMT Pelagos? Perhaps a regatta timer chronograph? As usual, these guesses ended up off the mark, with Tudor instead revealing a new pair of FXD watches made in conjunction with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. Along with them, a look at some wholly new features that will undoubtedly spur more predictions about what’s to come. After reviewing the FXD upon its launch in 2021, I’ve grown quite fond of the platform, as I often profess on the Worn & Wound podcast, but how well does it hold up in a different trim? The FXD is a watch that works better in person and on the wrist than it does on paper. It’s large and relatively flat stature that touts a lug to lug measurement north of 50mm thanks to a fixed lug design meaning only passthrough straps can be used. But it’s more than all that on the wrist. It wears slim and the widest bit of the lug is under a strap, so while it’s not as easy going as something like the Pelagos 39, it’s perfectly easy to get along with overall. On top of that, it’s got one of the most low-key interesting personalities of any of the mainline dive watches out there. Additionally, after having completed my open water dive certification with the FXD on my wrist every step of the way, I can attest to its qualities under the surface, as well (more on ...
Hodinkee
The G-SHOCK MUDMAN-GW-9500
Conquer the elements with the G-SHOCK MUDMAN GW-9500. Designed for the harshest terrains, the timepiece is the ultimate wrist companion for explorers and adventurers alike.
Deployant
TGIFriday: Rolls-Royce launch event for the new Spectre in Singapore
Rolls-Royce Motor Cars launches the Asian debut of Spectre in an event in Singapore. We were at the event and bring you this brief report.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin design a unique clock for the world’s most expensive car
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers bespoke department has collaborated with Rolls-Royce on a luxurious dashboard clock piece unique upon a client’s request Styled after a dashboard-mounted gauge, it features a bi-axial tourbillon and double retrograde display The car it was designed for, the Rolls-Royce Amethyst Droptail, is the world’s most expensive new car When it comes … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin design a unique clock for the world’s most expensive car appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Farer Launches the New Tonneau Collection, with Colors Inspired by European Cities
British brand Farer’s latest collection is an ode to form and aesthetics. Called the Tonneau Collection, the three watches each show that style doesn’t have to lack substance; but can, in fact, be a jumping-off point for great design and a reliable watch. As the name denotes, each watch within this collection has a barrel-shaped, rounded rectangle case, mixing clean lines and smooth curves all in one. At just 35mm, it’s a watch that balances comfort on the wrist while still having a covetable presence when worn, and this is due in part to the particular color combinations that Farer used for the collection. Each of the three color options embody the spirit and energy of a particular city: Milan, London, and Paris. Milan’s vibrant emerald fumé dial is a callback to green-glazed ceramics that traversed the ancient world and still has a timeless sophistication – just like Milan. The emerald green is paired with polished silver batons, a stainless steel case, and a rich brown St Venere leather strap to balance the urbanity of the Northern Italian city. London is a nod to the Mod era of the 1970’s, with Farer being inspired by two-handed watches of this time period. With clean lines and a ridged pattern around the face, one can appreciate the geometry that goes into a well-designed timepiece. The dominant colors (or should I say colours) of this watch are blue, white, and red, each perfectly in balance to not compete but complement one another. The London model is ...
Time+Tide
The new MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision bare all with full transparency and new colours
The MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision initially came in four editions, each limited to only 5 pieces Two new HM9-SV models now join the collection, again each limited to 5 pieces One brings a blue PVD-coated movement into a white gold case, the other a green PVD-coated movement into a yellow gold case The MB&F; catalogue … ContinuedThe post The new MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision bare all with full transparency and new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Two new editions to the MB&F; HM9-SV
Gearing up to the Geneva Watch Days, MB&F; releases two new editions to their HM9-SV in blue and green. Limited to 5 pieces each.
Deployant
New: Ba111od Chapter 6 – one for the ladies
Independent watchmaker Ba111od releases their first watch tailored for women - the Chapter 6. The novelties come in five designs in 36mm cases.
Time+Tide
The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts
Longines unveils an engraved trio with three different dial colours in three different finishes The watches are downsized from 40mm to 38.5mm, in a move destined to be popular among enthusiasts An azurage-finish petite seconde is courtesy of the silicon hairspring-equipped L893.5 How often do you see a brand new release that immediately captures you? … ContinuedThe post The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Jacob & Co The World is Yours Dual Timezone
Jacob & Co releases a new Dual Timezone watch which they call "The World is Yours" with a very interesting and touching origin story.
Teddy Baldassarre
What Was the First Wristwatch?
It says a lot about the cultural impact of wristwatches that it seems to many of us as if they’ve been around forever, and in fact, there are watchmaking brands that can trace their history back two centuries or more; a handful are even older than the United States. Watches worn on the wrist, however, are a more recent phenomenon, at least for the general public, and while men make up the majority of serious wristwatch collectors and aficionados these days, women were the trendsetters of the style, wearing timepieces on their wrists nearly 100 years before gentlemen adopted them into their wardrobe. So who made the first wristwatch (for men and for women) and how did the wristwatch win over a male populace that at first considered them hopelessly effete? Our story begins in early 19th-Century France, with one of horological history's leading luminaries. First wristwatch (1810): Breguet No. 2639 for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747 - 1823, above) was a native of Neuchâtel, Switzerland who plied his trade as a watchmaker in Paris and who today is regarded as one the most important figures in the history of timekeeping. Among Breguet’s many innovations were the first self-winding movement, the first repeater movement with a gong, one of the earliest constant-force escapements, and the device that he famously patented in 1801, the tourbillon escapement. But perhaps the most influential contribution Breguet made to the evolution of timekeeping wa...
Worn & Wound
Out of Office: The Wandering Bezel of the Seiko Land Tortoise
Tool watches are, as the name suggests, utilitarian by design. When I bought an SRPG13, the green Seiko Land Tortoise with a compass bezel, I thought I was purchasing yet another tool watch with practical non-timekeeping functionality. After an overnight family backpacking trip, I’m not convinced my field watch is the useful tool I tried to force it to be. The Land Tortoise is a tool watch- in the sense that it’s technically capable of tasks beyond displaying the time. True North can be found with any analog watch by pointing the hour hand at the sun, bisecting the angle between the hour hand and the sun to find South, and then locating the opposite point to identify North. A compass bezel is an enhancement that allows the wearer to mark North after finding it. This summer our family of four is section hiking the entire Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail; A 50 mile peak to peak path through New Hampshire’s backcountry. What better place to put this tool to the test than on the first section of the trip? The day before our first overnight section, as I organized gear, sprawling out sleeping pads, a tent, trekking poles and various knick-knacks across our living room floor, I made sure to put on the SRPG13. I pictured standing on a mountain top, getting the kids set up with a celebratory lunch, lining up the hour hand, and then bisecting with ease. With a real compass in my pack, I was excited to check my accuracy. Two miles away and 2000 feet above the parking lot whe...