Hodinkee
Introducing: With Nine New Models, Raymond Weil Expands Its Award-Winning Millesime Collection
A vintage-inspired evolution bringing luxury watchmaking to a broader audience.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
“Patina” or Damage? Scrutinizing the Fine Line Between Pleasing and Pesky Imperfections
The Ship of Theseus paradox involves the legendary vessel that Theseus––a Greek mythological hero who rescued the children of Athens and slayed the Minotaur of Crete––traveled on. To honor his valiant efforts, the Athenians preserved the ship and, over time, swapped parts that decayed or had become damaged, eventually replacing all of its original components. This, in turn, begs the question: is it still Theseus’ ship even if all the parts have been replaced? If not, at what point did it cease to be the original? Now that our history lecture is over, I want to utilize this idea of time and identity to talk about a topic near and dear to our watch-collecting hearts: patina. A number of journalists and enthusiasts have discussed what patina is, how it can be defined in a horological sense, and the many forms it can take, but no one (to my knowledge) has discussed when deterioration or damage becomes patina. This may seem like a rather abstract subject to discuss, but most, if not all, collectors take condition into consideration when shopping for a watch. The two main questions that will help get to the bottom of this patina paradox are: 1.) At what point does damage become patina? and 2.) Is patina just a buzzword to market a watch with lots of aesthetic flaws? The Evolution of Flaws to Patina One of patina’s most essential characteristics is its dependability on age. The natural degradation of luminous material, the color-changing properties of a dial often...
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Defy Skyline Review
While the El Primero movement architecture may serve as the face of the Zenith brand, it is the Defy collection that remains its soul. The Defy represents an historically significant ethos for Zenith, a creative foundation that is just as important to the Swiss brand’s past as it is to its future. Originally meant to be a showcase of innovation and ideas, the Defy collection serves dual purposes: to preserve and celebrate innovations of the past in the “Revival” subfamily, and to continue innovating for the future in the series’ other branches. In 2022, the brand took a big step toward the future of the collection with the release of the Zenith Defy Skyline, a watch that simultaneously looked to build on successful elements of the past and also to capitalize on the integrated-bracelet sport watch trend that had taken hold of the industry. The Zenith Defy collection has roots in the 1960s and ‘70s, when many of the brand’s most iconic and exciting references were released (you can read a more in-depth history here). Many of these have been reborn in the form of modern Revival references, allowing a new generation of enthusiasts to discover them again, or for the first time. These designs weren’t afraid to take risks, from the shape of the case, to the bracelet integration, right into the dial colors and textures. The Defy name quickly came to signify a huge amount of character, and that’s on full display within the brand’s current stable. In finding a mo...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the echo/neutra Chrono GMT
Sometimes, no matter how many hours we spend scrolling on Instagram and monitoring various watch-focused group chats, things slip through the cracks. Watches that check all the right boxes to rise above the noise of a crowded market go unnoticed and become sleeper hits instead of hits, and creativity that deserves widespread celebration instead receives a splattering of quiet applause. For collectors that enjoy witnessing brands evolve and develop distinct design DNA in real time, it can be a bummer to discover your radar missed something great. But on the bright side, this scenario allows for instant gratification and the opportunity to speed run a brand’s evolution to the present day. This was my experience when Italian microbrand echo/neutra released the Rivanera at the end of last year. Like many of you, I was pleasantly caught off guard by the rugged take on the classic rectangular dress watch, but didn’t recognize the name divided by a distinct slash on the dial. This sent me digging through surprisingly sparse reviews and forum threads where I discovered that the Rivanera was far from beginner’s luck, and was actually the result of a year’s long evolution that began in the way many do, with a safe and somewhat generic field watch on Kickstarter. Watching aging YouTube videos, this actual first release called the Averau (which later included a very cool moon phase) looks like exactly the type of watch I would’ve chased in 2019 when specs and MSRP were my pr...
Deployant
Walkthrough video of the new Gerald Charles Museum
We were invited to the Gerald Charles. Federico Ziviviani, the CEO showing us the new museum, the watchmaker's atelier and his office.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
A new flagship for the Overseas line, and the first reference to feature a minute repeater.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New ZRC Grands Fonds Heritage Smoke
Except if you’re a hardcore dive watch enthusiast, ZRC might not immediately ring a bell. And yet, it is a rather important name for divers, particularly in France. An old company that once created a watch for the French Navy and delivered them for a good 35 years, the whole concept was brought back to […]
Fratello
Fratello On Air: How Vintage Watch Shenanigans Hurt The Hobby
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss a recent news story about another questionable vintage watch. We aren’t taking sides, but it allows us to mention, yet again, the pain it causes the hobby. Still, plenty of great pieces are out there if you do your homework. This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: How Vintage Watch Shenanigans Hurt The Hobby to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Snowflake Review
The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is not just a watch that helped define Grand Seiko as a luxury brand to be reckoned with in the 21st Century: it is also at the vanguard of an industry-wide movement toward making dials more beautiful, enticing, and unique - not only with the bold use of color, but with textures that play with the concept of 3D space and the interplay of light and shadow. Nearly every Grand Seiko model of note can claim a dial (and often a nickname) with a distinctly eye-catching motif, usually inspired by the breathtaking natural wonders of the company’s native Japan. Other luxury watch brands have noticed and followed suit - from luxury leaders like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, to attainable brands like little-brother Seiko and its main competitor, Citizen. The “Snowflake,” Grand Seiko’s first and still most famous textured dial, is arguably the OG of this trend; here is the story of how it came to be and where it stands today. As success stories for new watch brands go, it’s hard to find a better case study in the past decade than Grand Seiko. The Japanese high-luxury watchmaker has, in its relatively short stint in the international market, elevated itself in the eyes of many collectors to the upper echelon of watchmaking prestige and collectibility, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. This plaudit, of course, comes with a caveat: Grand Seiko is not ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Gübelin Special Edition
Collaborations are one of the hottest trends in watchmaking today, as brands, high and low, team up with artists, retailers, collectors – you name it – to create special customised editions. The latest collaboration involves Italian powerhouse Bulgari and Gübelin, the Swiss, family-owned jewellery and watch retailer. The model selected is the Octo Finissimo Skeleton […]
Monochrome
Portrait – Löbner Watches, “Vom Guten das Beste” or The Best of The Best
Swiss watchmaking captures all the attention. The most prestigious brands, trusted by the market, are “Swiss Made”, which acts as an absolute guarantee. The only one to dominate the watch landscape, historically, outside of Switzerland, is the great Japanese classic: Seiko. On closer inspection, however, watch-related know-how has developed outside of Switzerland, particularly in Eastern […]
Fratello
Debuted But Not Debated: The Green Cerachrom Dial In The Left-Handed White Gold Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite”
It was the Land-Dweller that stole the limelight, and understandably so. After all, it’s not often that The Crown presents an entirely new collection with a groundbreaking movement innovation to boot. I did feel sorry for the other novelties, though. The pastel-tinted Oyster Perpetual watches were quite lovely, for instance, but they got trampled on […] Visit Debuted But Not Debated: The Green Cerachrom Dial In The Left-Handed White Gold Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite” to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Edition Historique Reviewed by Tim Mosso: The Hand Finishing is Sensational!
In Tim Mosso's opinion, there’s a refreshing take-it-or-leave-it vibe to the Historique. That said, many divisive elements are purposeful rather than capricious. Certainly, the case is huge, but so is the movement.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Impressive Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Returns in Black Ceramic and Sapphire Crystal Cases
Hublot has never shown a reverence for conservative watchmaking. Starting with its explosively named Big Bang collection, Hublot revels in innovative material combinations and loud, audacious designs. However, when it comes to showing off its horological muscles, Hublot’s Masterpiece suite is where you’ll find the most technically complex models. Last year, Hublot inducted another Masterpiece […]
Fratello
Hands-On With Two New Versions Of The Popular Tusenö Shellback V2 Dive Watch
Tusenö has been making a name for itself with the Shellback V2 dive watch. The Swedish brand has been around for a decade this year, but the Shellback has done the most to get the Tusenö name out there. With cleverly designed details and solid build quality, this dive watch has become a fan favorite […] Visit Hands-On With Two New Versions Of The Popular Tusenö Shellback V2 Dive Watch to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Tudor Pelagos Ultra
Tudor has been busy expanding the Pelagos collection in recent years, focusing primarily on military and racing associations. But until now, none exceeded the 500 m depth rating of the debut model from 2012. Just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025, the Pelagos Ultra (ref. 2543C1A7NU) can dive to double that depth, making it the deepest diving watch in Tudor’s current collection. The Ultra is differentiated primarily by its headline 1,000 m depth rating and teal accents, and is otherwise a familiar mix of elements from the Pelagos range including the lumed ceramic bezel, a fully brushed grade 2 titanium case and bracelet, and legible snowflake hands. Initial thoughts I personally enjoy overbuilt dive watches, despite the fact that I don’t dive. Practicality aside, there’s just something fun and reassuring about wearing what feels like a vault on the wrist. And that’s what the Ultra feels like – it’s tangibly overbuilt but still wearable thanks to its titanium construction. The biggest, baddest Pelagos yet, the Ultra measures 43 mm and 14.5 mm thick. But it doesn’t look overly large thanks to its 22 mm lug width, which gives it the visual proportions of something a little smaller. That said, the sizing may be too much for some, who would likely find a better fit with the standard Pelagos or Pelagos 39. The dial design is similar to that of the Pelagos 39, with applied polymer-ceramic lume plots. But the Ultra is a little more extreme, with beefier hands and ma...
Deployant
Elevate your watch collection: six top watches priced below S$10,000
Looking to elevate your watch collection without breaking the bank? We have six watches that may be worth your consideration.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Five Watches With Flyer GMT Functionality, And Then Some…
To function properly, a watch first and foremost needs to tell time. On top of that, there’s a world of complexity and practicality to be discovered. One such complication is the GMT function, preferably of the Flyer kind. But what if you want something more than that? What if you want, let’s say, an alarm […]
SJX Watches
Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1
In a surprising turn of events, the Breguet Sympathique no. 1 has been acquired by its primary creator, Francois-Paul Journe, for the princely sum of CHF5.51 million including fees (equivalent to US$6.61 million). Notably, Sympathique no. 1 sold for almost as much as the Sympathique made for the Duc d’Orléans. Completed in 1991 for the Art of Breguet thematic auction, the clock was completed in 1991 by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a complications workshop founded by Mr Journe, who also recruited Denis Flageollet and clockmaker Dominic Mouret. And now it will soon become one of the key exhibits in the upcoming F.P. Journe Museum, which will be located near its manufacture in downtown Geneva. Determined bidding The impressive result for the clock exceeded most expectations, including mine. I had expected a result in the region of CHF2.5 million. And in a bit of intrigue before the auction, F.P. Journe sent out an announcement to its clients before the auction stating that it would not repair or service Sympathique no. 1; the buyer of the clock would have to go to Breguet. Getting to the hammer price was not difficult, illustrating the strength of the F.P. Journe name today. While there were a handful of bidders under the million-franc mark, it was eventually down to a gentleman in the room and Mr Journe himself. Past the CHF2 million mark it then turned into a contest between a phone bidder represented by Alex Ghotbi and Mr Journe. Bidding proceeded at a stea...
Deployant
New: Sinn 1739 Römerberg
The Sinn 1739 Römerberg is a thoughtfully designed timepiece that pays tribute to Frankfurt's historic architecture. Its deep red sunburst dial reflects the red Main sandstone of the Haus zum Goldenen Rad, a building recognized for its restoration efforts. While visually striking, the polished stainless steel case and understated appliques maintain an elegant simplicity. The exhibition case back, featuring an engraving of the Frankfurt Römer, reinforces the watch’s connection to the city’s heritage.
Fratello
Hot Take: A New Trilobe Une Folle Journée In Green
Last month, at Watches and Wonders 2025, I visited the Trilobe booth. It was my first time seeing the brand’s watches, and they impressed me. The Parisian company depicts time uniquely through its pieces. The latest Une Folle Journée Rhodium-plated Green is a wearable modern watch in a new colorway. I’m always skeptical when I […] Visit Hot Take: A New Trilobe Une Folle Journée In Green to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The New Tissot PRC 100 Is a Solar Sensation (Hands-On)
While the PRC 100 Solar proved tough enough for Central Australia, would it be able to withstand the daily activities of an upper-middle class watch nerd? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, classic design Reliable and robust Wears slim and close to the wrist What We Don’t: The visible solar cells might put some people off Blank caseback — a blessing and a curse Can they add a microadjustment? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a reboot — whether it’s Michael Mann’s Heat, Robert Eggers’ Nosferatu, or Todd Howard’s Oblivion, there’s something magnetic about a classic getting the modern treatment. The watch world is no different. Heritage designs have seen a renaissance, with luxury brands like Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Rolex bringing back beloved models. Timepieces like the Chronomaster Revival Shadow, Carrera Glassbox, and Land-Dweller either faithfully revive past icons or remix archival elements into something fresh. Neo-vintage revivals — more recent classics brought back into production — are also gaining traction. While Omega’s Constellation and Piaget’s Polo ’79 represent the high end, this trend has seeped into the more accessible tier of watchmaking. Japanese powerhouses Seiko and Citizen have often led the charge, but one European brand stands tall among them: Tissot. Part of the Swatch Group, Tissot made waves in 2021 with the PRX, a heritage-inspired hit th...
Monochrome
The Evergreens – The History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore – Redefining Luxury Sports Watches Since 1993
The story of the origins of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore has been told many times, typically casting Stephen Urquhart, then co-CEO of Audemars Piguet, as the visionary mind behind the watch. According to the commonly accepted version, Urquhart’s sharp commercial instincts led him to assign a young designer, Emmanuel Gueit, the task of […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The HTD Hesagraph Cannoli And Variante B
HTD is one of those watch companies that, once in a while, will pop up on people’s radars. The Italian brand has shown a great eye for design over the five years it has been around. However, with the two new Hesagraph 2025 models, HTD shows how far the watches have come. These two variations […] Visit Hands-On With The HTD Hesagraph Cannoli And Variante B to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Swatch SCUBAQUA Collection, a Series of Colorful Divers, Just in Time for Summer
If there’s one drum I’m constantly banging in the watch enthusiast discourse, it’s that the Swatch MoonSwatch is probably among the least interesting watches made by the brand. I know, I know. They are a phenomenon. They have probably introduced untold numbers of new collectors to our hobby. And they are meant to be fun and I should just chill out. This is all incredibly valid. But as a somewhat older, somewhat more grizzled watch collector who fondly remembers a pre-MoonSwatch era, I’m very much of the opinion that Swatch remains on the vanguard of creativity, you just have to walk past that MoonSwatch display briefcase in the boutique. This week saw the release of what I think is a great example of a watch that is more impressive in just about every way than a run of the mill MoonSwatch. The new SCUBAQUA Collection even uses the same Bioceramic material found in the MoonSwatch, but in a way that, to my eye, is more uniquely Swatch. Based on the classic Swatch Scuba collection, the new SCUBAQUA watches are a thoughtful update using new materials with enhanced specs and a more contemporary feel. The new SCUBAQUA watches are all about color and transparency, achieving what the brand calls the “jelly effect,” a principle common to many similarly transparent and colorful Swatches over the years. Each watch combines Bioceramic in the solid color sections of the case with castor oil derived biosourced materials for the transparent components. The dials in each v...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Lovely Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Steel Rose
When I was asked to compile my list of favorite Watches and Wonders 2025 releases, the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Steel Rose was the first that sprang to mind. So, when I got the opportunity to spend some decent time with it, I jumped on it. I spent a couple of days with this beauty on […] Visit Hands-On With The Lovely Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Steel Rose to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Brew Metric Manual Wind: A Decade In, Brew Drops the Hammer (and the Rotor)
The Brew Metric Manual Wind blends Swiss mechanics with Brew’s signature design language-limited to 125 pieces and already selling fast.
Time+Tide
13 of the best quartz watches that rub it into quartz snobs’ faces
Here's a few reasons why quartz watches should not just be low-cost alternatives to their mechanical counterparts.The post 13 of the best quartz watches that rub it into quartz snobs’ faces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Tudor Black Bay Chrono”Carbon 25″ & Pelagos FXD Chrono”Pink”
Tudor stuns us with Consecutive Launches in a Single Week! Presenting the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” and the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink”. Press Release information with commentary in italics New: Tudor Black Bay Chrono”Carbon 25″ & Pelagos FXD Chrono”Pink” The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” is priced at SGD 10,470 (Limited to 2025 pieces). While theRead More
Time+Tide
The Time+Tide Team picks their favourite lots from Geneva’s stacked 2025 watch auction season
There's so many auctions gearing up to take place in Geneva right now and they're all chock-full of amazing watches - here's the best ones.The post The Time+Tide Team picks their favourite lots from Geneva’s stacked 2025 watch auction season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.