Results for Travel Time / Dual Time

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Worn & Wound

Farer Adds Apr 10, 2023

Farer Adds a Trio of New 36mm GMTs to the Lander Family

If you’ve been interested in Farer’s Lander GMT (which they tell us is their most popular watch…ever) but felt it was just a bit too big, you’ll want to check out the brand’s latest release. The new 36mm GMT collection takes the Lander aesthetic and shrinks it, making for some of the most compact automatic GMTs on the market. It was only a few months ago that the Lorca GMT had us wondering why there weren’t more smaller GMT equipped watches on the market, and now we have a sudden influx. It’s a good time to be a GMT fan, and now there are a selection of colorful options from across the pond.  The premise here is fairly simple. These new watches share the same basic design as the Lander, with a trio of distinct colorways. Unlike most Farer releases, which frequently have dramatic differences in hand-sets, hour markers, and dial textures within a single collection, these three watches are all very much “Landers” with the same numeral and hand design.  The three colors include the much admired sea green, seen in what Farer is calling the Lander IV, or the Lander Classic, This watch has the same sunburst blue/green color that caught the attention of many watch enthusiasts in Farer’s early days, and set a tone for what to expect in terms of creative color combinations. The sea green dial is offset with a bright red GMT hand and an orange seconds hand, along with a white outer minute track.  The next color in the new collection is Sea Coast, with a dial th...

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Time+Tide

Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde Apr 5, 2023

The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is a bi-retrograde, bi-axis tourbillon spec monster

The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is Hublot’s latest addition to the Masterpiece collection. It features a bi-retrograde dial, as well as a bi-axis tourbillon for ultimate complexity. Despite many power-draining complications, the HUB6200 offers a 4-day power reserve. There will always be people seeking to discredit Hublot as serious watchmakers, however projects such as … ContinuedThe post The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is a bi-retrograde, bi-axis tourbillon spec monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Revolution

Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele presents Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele presents new Alpine Eagle and L.U.C. 1860 timepieces

See the new Chopard novelties up close with Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Revolution Founder Wei Koh. At Watches and Wonders 2023, Mr Scheufele and his vaunted brand unveiled the Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, which is driven by the chronometer-certified L.U.C 96.40-L movement with 65 hours of power reserve; and the high-frequency […]

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Time+Tide

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Mar 30, 2023

The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C

The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of their first L.U.C watch, with many modern improvements The salmon dial is crafted from a gold plate, and does away with the unnecessary date display Chopard’s Lucent steel is made from 80% recycled material, and is also harder and brighter than regular stainless steel Chopard’s first wristwatch … ContinuedThe post The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Chopard Grants Alpine Eagle L.U.C Mar 29, 2023

[VIDEO] Chopard Grants Alpine Eagle L.U.C Movement In New 41XPS

Chopard expanded their Alpine Eagle collection in big ways this year, with the introduction of the new high-beat Cadence that gets a full titanium case and bracelet, and they’ve finally given the watch one of their lovely L.U.C calibers. This is the new Alpine Eagle 41XPS featuring the 96.40-L micro-rotor movement. It’s extra thin and extra beautiful as a result, mated to a salmon dial with no date, and a subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. This isn’t the only new watch to receive this movement, as it can also be found in the stunning L.U.C 1860, which feels a more natural habitat for such a movement, leaving the jump to the Alpine Eagle collection all the more welcome.  The Alpine Eagle 41XPS is, as you might have guessed, built in the 41mm case using Chopard’s Lucent Steel A223, an alloy that incorporates a high amount of recycled steel, and is smelted multiple times for increased hardness and brightness. It’s quite lovely in person, though I don’t know I’d be able to place it as something different without that knowledge beforehand. It’s worth noting the Chopard is working to transition more of their steel watches to Lucent steel in the coming years. The 41XPS uses the L.U.C 96.40-L caliber, which itself is a shade over 3mm in thickness allowing for an exceptionally thin case. It’s COSC certified and quite a looker through the exhibition caseback. Its placement within the Alpine Eagle collection pushes this steel watch into a different price realm, at ...

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R Revolution

Revolution

Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Mar 29, 2023

VIDEO: New versions of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph

Besides the new Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, and L.U.C. 1860, Chopard also introduced several stunning versions of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph at Watches and Wonders 2023. Inspired by the legendary Mille Miglia race, this 40.5mm Lucent Steel timepiece is now available in colors like light […]

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SJX Watches

De Bethune Introduces Mar 29, 2023

De Bethune Introduces the DB Eight

While De Bethune is best known for its avant-garde designs and signature spring-loaded floating lugs, the brand’s early years were characterised by more traditional styling. Fresh off the press, the DB Eight calls to mind the brand’s early products, most notably the DB1 mono-pusher chronograph from 2002, but adds many of the technical refinements that De Bethune has become known for.  Dressed in a polished titanium case and guilloché dial, the DB Eight fills a hole in the brand’s current line-up by offering collectors a simple, manually wound mono-pusher chronograph, albeit one that lacks the technical and decorative refinement collectors expect at this price point. Thanks to its wide but slim case and narrow bezel, the DB Eight will likely wear larger than its 42.4 mm diameter would suggest Initial thoughts I’m probably in the minority when it comes to my preference for De Bethune’s more classically styled models like the original DB1. Given this preference, I naturally I gravitated towards the new DB Eight more than I have to some of the brand’s other recent offerings like the DB28XP. But while I like the design of the DB Eight, the substance does not meet my expectations for the brand. Let’s start with the good news. De Bethune has addressed the cross-eyed look of the DB1 with a new movement that offers an instantaneous 60-minute counter for the elapsed time at six o’clock. This creates a balanced look that at first glance might even pass for a time-...

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Time+Tide

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Mar 27, 2023

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 3

German independent Kudoke has carved out its own niche with a distinctive blend of English-inspired movements and Germanic attention-to-detail in its Handwerk line of watches. The latest addition to the line is the Kudoke 3, which largely sticks to the successful formula of prior models, but offers a twist in the form of a split-level dial and triple-scale hour display. Once known primarily for ostentatiously skeletonised Unitas calibers, such as the watch worn by Dominic Monaghan’s character in Last Looks, Kudoke hit the reset button in 2019 with Handwerk line comprised of the Kudoke 1 and 2. The collection introduced a more restrained design aesthetic and importantly, brand’s first proprietary movement. The Kudoke 3 continues down this path, but goes further in terms of creative design. The Handwerk collection (from left): Kudoke 1, Kudoke 2, and Kudoke 3 Initial thoughts As a fan of modern German (and historical English) watchmaking, I’ve been impressed with the brand’s work since the launch of the Kudoke 1. Like Habring² and Laine, Kudoke offers a compelling alternative to mass-produced luxury watches. The Kudoke 3 is a thoughtful and unconventional addition to the Dresden-based brand’s growing collection, offering a novel time display with three scales for the hours along with a three-armed hour hand. This triple-scale calls to mind the distinctive seconds register of the 1990s Daniel Roth tourbillon (recently reborn as the Tourbillon Souscription), but ...

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SJX Watches

Louis Erard Introduces Mar 25, 2023

Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Marqueterie

After several consecutive hit collaborations, Louis Erard debuts its first with a wood marquetry dial. Arguably its most ambitious release yet in terms of craftsmanship, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial inlaid with tiny pieces of wood to form an M.C. Escher-like motif. For the dial, the brand tapped Bastien Chevalier, a Swiss artisan who specialises the art of creating designs and patterns out of intricately cut pieces of wood, although other materials like stone, silicon, straw, and even leather can be used for the technique. Initial thoughts In my view, most watchmakers tend to collaborate only as a last resort, when they’ve run out of ideas. What sets Louis Erard apart is its coherent strategy for collaborations. Whether created by industrial designer atelier oï, or a watchmaker like Vianney Halter, its collaboration editions are still recognisable as Louis Erard thanks to the use of the same steel case. And they are uniformly produced in small runs and priced below CHF4,000. The new Excellence Marqueterie continues this successful formula, bringing wood marquetry to the sub-US$10,000 category for the first time. While brands like anOrdain are doing something similar with affordably priced enamel dials that are designed for modern tastes, there’s never been a marquetry dial at this price point. Not only does the dial look good, it is impressively constructed from dozens of hand-made elements that require careful finishing. Despite the more complex dial...

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Worn & Wound

Louis Erard s New Limited Edition Mar 24, 2023

Louis Erard’s New Limited Edition Takes Wood Dials to a New Extreme

When you write about new watches everyday, it becomes harder and harder to be surprised. Most brands, for better or worse, design watches in an iterative way – new releases might be very, very nice, but truly fresh ideas are few and far between. But that just makes it even more gratifying when something genuinely different comes across the transom, as it did with this absolutely bonkers Louis Erard with a wood dial.  To start with, let’s concede that wood dials themselves are nothing new. Luxury brands have been making dials out of different types of wood for decades, with the trend reaching a peak in the 1970s and 80s. But this Louis Erard Excellence Marqueterie is unlike any other wood dial I’ve ever seen. It continues the Louis Erard trend of combining rare and traditional handcrafts with their unique, contemporary sensibility. Up to now, my favorite example of this idea was their work in the art of guilloche dial making, which took a craft that is undeniably difficult and special, but sometimes aesthetically a bit old fashioned, and made it feel extremely modern.  That first limited edition guilloche dial serves as design inspiration for this watch, made in the marquetry decorative tradition, which consists of inlaying many small pieces of precisely cut wood. Marquetry is most often used in furniture making – think table tops, the backs of chairs, and so forth. Here, miniature marquetry specialist Bastien Chevalier has produced a dial with an elaborate geomet...

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Worn & Wound

Oris TT1 Day Date reference Mar 10, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Nathan Schultz

Editor’s note: This week’s Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition, we welcome reader Nathan Schultz and his trio of unusual, unexpected, but entirely awesome watches.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. As watch enthusiasts, we have a penchant for forming opinions. We talk about what belongs on a dial, and where it should go. We discuss case dimensions, say “sweet spot” regularly, and debate if the Black Bay Pro is too thick. With time, forming an opinion about every aspect of a watch is inevitable. This opinion making frenzy is one of my favorite things about the hobby. When I have down time, I browse watches online. Do I buy them? Usually not, but it’s fun to dream. Through all this browsing and fantasizing, I’ve learned something unexpected about myself: I’m a lugs guy. My core lug opinion: the weirder the better. Oris TT1 Day Date reference 7518 – ~$1,000 It started with the Oris TT1 Day Date reference 7518. I did a double take the first time I saw this one. The lugs looked like an afterthought on a child’s art class pottery project. As if Oris spent so much time perfecting the big bubbly case, they forgot about the lugs until the last day, and just grabbed four spares from the lug bin.  The individual lug oddities on the 7518 seem nonsensical. Yet, combined, they just work. The case on this reference is beautifully rounded. It’s big and has a substantial pr...

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Worn & Wound

Nivada Grenchen Gives Us Mar 2, 2023

Nivada Grenchen Gives Us the Best of All Worlds with Chronoking Meca-Quartz

Nivada Grenchen’s Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver represents their interpretation of a multi-functional steel sports chronograph teeming with vintage attributes. The collection’s signature – a two subdial display, tachymeter scale integrated into the outer dial, and a rotating bezel that subtly incorporates a 12 hour display giving the already highly capable chronograph the ability to track another timezone. The vintage aesthetic doesn’t just harken back to the designs of your classic steel sport of watch of the 60’s and 70’s, it actually pulls from the very same design cues of the original Nivada Grenchen chronographs. Nivada’s current Chronoking Manual in particular retains the collection’s design language, but doubles down on the age-old appearance with its chocolate-toned subdials and yellow markers. Topping it all off, the Chronoking encases a Sellita SW510 manual movement in a tidy 38mm case. These are all attractive features and the norm within the Chronoking, as well as the rest of the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver collection. The only caveat here is that their chronographs are positioned within a crowded price tier filled with brands offering something relatively similar in design and function. However recently, Nivada Grenchen released a very enticing iteration of their Chronoking in the Chronoking Meca-Quartz. Albeit sold out, the Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Meca-Quartz includes all the charming traits and functionality at an approachable $479. Vi...

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Worn & Wound

Feb 28, 2023

Circula Introduces a GMT into their AquaSport Diver Collection

The formula for Circula’s AquaSport dive watch is fairly simple. It’s a proper 40mm diver that keeps dial furniture to a minimum and blends in a mix of color to keep their watches looking lively, and less mundane like your traditional black dial dive watch. It’s just enough to keep the AquaSport fun and refreshing, without straying too far away from Circula’s main mission – to produce high-quality, German made (Pforzheim to be exact) watches that harken back to past designs. Circula also takes pride in listening to their customers and the entire watch community as a whole, taking suggestions and then applying them accordingly to future projects. Whether there was an increasing demand for a GMT model from the community, or it was Circula’s intention to turn their AquaSport diver into an exceptional travel companion, we’ve got a brand new AquaSport GMT in two different flavors. The Circula AquaSport comes in two different dial variations: Anthracite and Blue. The AquaSport GMT Blue stays in line with what we’ve seen within the AquaSport collection. The dial has a cyan tone amplified by a sunburst effect paired with orange accented hour markers, seconds hand, and trim around the crown. A sky blue AM bezel display offsets the color matched PM display. The AquaSport GMT Anthracite keeps things a bit more reserved. The bezel remains a uniform matte gray color. Like the sunburst effect on the anthracite gray dial, the faded yellow and light blue accents on the dia...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Feb 24, 2023

Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter?

Those who are very new to appreciating watches may be surprised, and a bit confused, upon reading about a watch that boasts “21 jewels” and afterward looking it over and finding no diamonds or emeralds or any other precious stones on its dial or case. Many watches do, in fact, offer such adornments, but those are not what’s being referred to on a watch’s spec sheet in the “jewels” column; to clarify, “jewels” in horological parlance are not shorthand for “jewelry.” A watch’s jewels are, in fact, not even really intended to be seen and admired. Like the screws and gears and tiny wheels inside a watch’s movement, they are there to do a job, to play a vital and functional role in the smooth operation of a watch’s timekeeping.  So what are jewels in a watch movement, anyway, and what are they for? And do watchmakers really use valuable, precious gems as workhorse components inside these micromechanical engines? On the latter question, well, yes and no. As to the former question, read on.  The movement in a mechanical watch is a machine with lots of moving metal parts that tend to rub and grind against one another, creating friction that can wear down these components, adversely affecting the performance of the watch and ultimately shortening its functional life. The challenge in the early days of watchmaking was finding a substance harder than these metal parts to place at the vital pivot points to reduce metal-on-metal wear and tear. The answer pr...

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Worn & Wound

Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Feb 23, 2023

Brand Video Spotlight: A Heritage of Artistry in Design – The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series

Getting to know Seiko’s Presage Sharp Edged Series Seiko’s carefully crafted Presage collection reflects Seiko’s deep heritage of artistry in design and timekeeping. Timepieces that earn the Presage moniker capture the essence of both classic and contemporary Japanese style. The newest Presage designs from the Sharp Edged Series, convey the cool angularity of today’s Japanese aesthetic. The dial incorporates a Japanese “Asanoha” or hemp leaf pattern, prevalent in Japanese culture for its use in design and a symbol of growth and prosperity. The rich texture of the dial and the angular geometric pattern create a color gradation as it plays with light at every angle. Click here to view on YouTube. Learn more about the Seiko Presage Collection The post Brand Video Spotlight: A Heritage of Artistry in Design – The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound

Feb 21, 2023

G-SHOCK Celebrates the 30th Anniversary of the Frogman with a Limited Edition Inspired by a Colorful (but Poisonous) Frog

I’ve long held that you can tell an awful lot about a person by their taste in G-SHOCKs. By now, there are so many types of these watches out there, it’s not hard to get a sense of what kind of message a watch collector is trying to send out into the world about themselves through their choice in G-SHOCK. The hardcore collector types will naturally want to flex the limited or hard to find collabs. Your Rick and Morty and Budweiser editions, for example. I get the sense that people who are most likely to actually use their G-SHOCKs for their intended purpose are drawn toward simple, blacked out, “tacti-cool” watches that don’t draw too much attention. These are the simple, traditional G-SHOCKs being worn as nature intended, by the professionals who put themselves in dangerous situations for a living, or klutzes who know for a fact that their watch is going to become intimately familiar with every door jamb it approaches. And then there are people like me. We’re dabblers, interested in G-SHOCK but not obsessive, who are mostly drawn to aggressively colorful designs like the new GWFA1000APF1 seen here, made for the 30th anniversary of the Frogman.  The Frogman watches, if you need a quick refresher, are G-SHOCKs made with diving and water adventures in mind. While all G-SHOCK watches have ample water resistance, the Frogman series features analog time telling via large, dive watch style hands, and a dual coil motor system designed to quickly move those hands as y...

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W WatchAdvice

WatchAdvice

Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Feb 15, 2023

Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Review

What we like: Dial is a real head turner3D Printed Carbon case is a winnerMassive five-day power reserve What we don’t like: Some may find it to be expensiveThe fingerprints easily show on the crystal Some may not appreciate the 3D-printed case Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8/10 2022 was a big year for the independent Swiss brand Oris. Amongst the brand’s major updates to some of its collections was the continued release of its limited edition timepieces based on ecological conservation. The last major release for Oris in 2022 was the Coulson Limited edition, a watch created from the latest partnership with Coulson Aviation. Alongside creating luxury timepieces, Oris also works in a variety of different areas to bring “Change for the Better” for the planet and its people. Oris is also now independently certified as a climate-neutral company, with the watch brand working closely with other pioneering agencies to bring the change required to make the world a better place.  One of these agencies is Coulson Aviation, which Oris just recently partnered up with. Coulson Aviation is a family-run independent company based in Canada that sends out pilots, planes, and also much-needed equipment to areas of the world that are heavily affected by wildfires. The resources and help provided are split between the US and California for the Northern Hemisphere summer and for the Southern Hemisphere summer, Australia and...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Norqain goes wild Feb 10, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Piaget goes PC, Norqain goes wild with NHL, and FC is living the highlife

Another Friday, another Wind Down, another recap of some highlight releases you may have missed this week. Let’s get into them. Piaget presents a perpetual calendar Polo Perpetual calendar complication makes its debut in modern Polo line Features dark iridescent green dial, interchangeable straps, and a slender 8.65mm thickness Priced approximately 4.5x more than the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Piaget goes PC, Norqain goes wild with NHL, and FC is living the highlife appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Feb 9, 2023

Enthusiast Spotlight: Unpacking a Watch Photographer’s Trinkets and Tools with the NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik

In this spotlight, photographer and bonafide collector, Erin Comite (a.k.a. @pockettrinkets) takes us through her love of gear, photography, and NOMOS Glashütte watches. Hey Erin, thanks so much for taking part in our latest spotlight. Tell us a little about yourself!  Hi, I’m Erin Comite. I live in NYC with my husband and a miniature dachshund. By day, I work fully remote as a network engineer. Any downtime I have is typically spent somehow absorbed in the watch realm, where I’m either taking photos and editing them, or obsessively researching timepieces. I have a couple of small collections of timepieces, pens, and other trinkets-and I like to photograph and share them in groups where others do the same. You recently spent some time with the new NOMOS Club Sport neomatiks. What are your initial thoughts and impressions? The new NOMOS Club Sport neomatiks, both the 37mm in petrol green and the 42mm date in blue, are great everyday watches. The 42 is the bigger brother and was released a year earlier. Apparently, it’s popularity led NOMOS to release a new, smaller size. I’m intrigued by the versatility of being able to keep it on the metal bracelet 100% of the time, or swapping straps out easily with the quick change spring bars. I don’t need to go into detail over the anxiety-inducing process that is changing straps and hoping to not scratch your watch… or worse. But if you’re up for it, NOMOS makes a tool kit to help make adjusting links on the bracelet...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Zenith expands their starry Defy Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton replaces the recently discontinued Defy Classic Skeleton. The star-motif of the skeleton dial is now four-pointed instead of five-pointed.  New Skyline Skeleton has no date and moves 1/10th of a second counter from 9′ to more symmetrical 6′ position. New Skyline 36mm does not have a 1/10th of a second counter, … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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D Deployant

Deployant

Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Dec 31, 2022

New: Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Limited Editions

The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series Limited Editions are a beautiful and high-quality set of timepieces. The attention to detail in the design is evident in every aspect of the watch, from the elegant and sophisticated dial to the sharp, angular case. The limited edition models are available in a 3 hands date or GMT configuration.

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SJX Watches

Grand Seiko White Birch” Initial thoughts Dec 20, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SPB333, “White Birch” for Less

As is its habit, Seiko is marking the 110th anniversary of its first-ever wristwatch with a series of limited editions starting with the recent Presage SBP359. Now the Japanese watchmaker unveils the Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary” based on its “turtle” dive watch but featuring a patterned dial reminiscent of the popular Grand Seiko “White Birch”. Initial thoughts When Seiko first announced limited editions for the 110th anniversary, I was expecting a reissue of the original Laurel wristwatch, which turned out to be spot on. But as a longtime fan of Seiko dive watches, I was hoping for something based on the “Turtle” for the occasion. Well, I am happy to say that the SPB333 does not disappoint. Though it is easily recognisable as a “Turtle”, it is clear that thought went into the styling. Its designers used the classic diver as a template for gentle experimentation and the result certainly delivers. The dial is beautiful and certainly fancier than that on the average Seiko diver. Though ostensibly inspired by glaciers, the textured dial certainly brings to mind the popular “White Birch” pattern found on several Grand Seiko models. This level of dial decoration on a “tool” watch places the SPB333 on my Christmas wish list. Pattern aside, I do have some bones to pick with the dial design, specifically the date window between four and five o’clock. I find date windows on Seiko divers are far better in the cust...

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SJX Watches

Breguet Introduces Dec 14, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year”

Continuing its annual tradition of commemorative editions for the Chinese Lunar Year, Breguet introduces the Classique 9075 “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of the Water Rabbit set to start in January 2023. While last year’s “Tiger” edition was a men’s watch with a hand-engraved dial, this year’s watch is artisanal yet whimsical in a manner that is atypical for the typically conservative brand. Initial thoughts It is always lovely to see a timepiece that makes you smile, especially from a brand that is usually formal. While Breguet debuts special editions regularly, it often utilises guilloche for the dials, as is the brand’s trademark. So the playful dial on the Classique 9075 is refreshing. The prancing-rabbit motif manages to be whimsical without being bold and loud, and still retains the elegance and grace expected of Breguet. And of course the grand feu enamel dial is executed with intricate detail and craftsmanship. The Classique 9075, however, is a women’s watch, not because of the design but the compact case diameter of 33.5 mm as well as the diamonds on the bezel and lugs. A masculine version – scaled up and sans diamonds – would certainly have appeal for male enthusiasts. At CHF43,000, the Classique 9075 is priced in the same ballpark as comparable models in the regular production collection, making it a compelling alternative to the average Breguet. But it will only be an alternative for very few as the watch is limited to o...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Breguet Reine de Naples References Dec 13, 2022

Breguet Reine de Naples References 9835 & 9838: Declaring A Love Of Timeless Elegance

In the newly introduced Breguet Reine de Naples References 9835 and 9838, the minute hand has become a sporty, elegant declaration of love. These intriguing hands feature a unique mechanism that traces the minute track around the edge of the oval dial in a singular way, at times looking like a heart.

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Introduces Dec 1, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Starwheel

After a two-decade hiatus, Audemars Piguet has revived the wandering-hours complication with the Code 11:59 Starwheel. The latest addition to the collection installs the distinctive complication in the Code 11:59, a model initially criticised but now often praised, and combines it with a blue aventurine dial that’s matched with a two-tone, black ceramic and white gold case. Initial thoughts The reintroduction of the Starwheel in the Code 11:59 is an interesting proposition that is well timed. It is interesting because it combines the modern proportions and style of the Code 11.59 case with a once-neglected complication. In that sense, the watch embodies a key familiar direction in contemporary watchmaking: reinterpreting of a vintage classic for today. Even though the formula is familiar, the new Starwheel is different enough that it will no doubt be polarising. The relatively large case diameter of 41 mm compared to the compact 1990s models means the new model will probably not appeal to fans of the original, but it will surely bring a new audience to the complication (and perhaps enlarge the pool of clients for the Code 11.59). And it is well timed because Starwheel watches from the 1990s enjoyed a rise in popularity alongside the broader jump in interest in watches of all sorts during the last two years. So the brand’s revival of the Starwheel reflects its awareness of today’s tastes. It also reveals that AP is paying attention to the comings and goings on th...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Nov 22, 2022

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 – Reprise Nov 13, 2022

Behind The Lens: The Ultra-Rare Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 – Reprise

As most folks who follow Patek Philippe are aware, the brand has long been in the habit of making unique watches for special customers, including in recent times entertainment luminaries such as Eric Clapton and Michael Ovitz. It was not until 2015, however, that Patek Philippe publicly issued a number of small editions of previously discontinued references, each in previously unmade metal/dial combinations. This Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 is one of those ultra-rare birds. And GaryG wonders if it might bring yellow gold back into fashion single-handedly.

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Casio nal practice Nov 7, 2022

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year”

Continuing with its occasional practice of special editions to mark the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC debuts the Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of Water Rabbit that begins in early 2023. The limited edition retains the style of the classic Portugieser but dressed up with a riveting burgundy dial with gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts As an admirer of vintage timepieces, I find few watches that match the distinctive simplicity of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939. So the Portugieser Automatic 40 is easy to like since it echoes the feel of the vintage original. The Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” stands out with its unusual dial. Bright red is the traditional colour of Lunar New Year, but its darker counterpart is a more appropriate hue for a dress watch. While the design still evokes the original – the gold hands and numerals give it a vintage feel – the burgundy dial is more dynamic than the conventional silver alternative, giving it a more versatile feel than the formal original. More importantly, the new Portugieser is not merely a fancy dial catered to Asian buyers. The case back reveals the in-house movement that’s one of the better automatic movements in this price segment. Lastly, the Chinese New Year edition costs US$1,000 more than the standard edition, which is an acceptable premium for the new dial as well as the commemorative rabbit rotor. The only downside for a co...

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W WatchAdvice

WatchAdvice

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Nov 1, 2022

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review

Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look  Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line.   A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...

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