Hodinkee
Photo Report: From Suits To Streetwear, The Style Of Watches & Wonders
Of course the watch spotting was solid but there were also some great fits on display during this year's big trade show.
Results for Geneva Watch Days
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial
The Panerai Radiomir California is their first California dial in a 45mm case. For the first time, Panerai have experimented with a faux-aged PVD case. The green and gilt dial gives the watch a lot of old-world charm thanks to modern techniques. Panerai haven’t been the fastest brand to pick up on new trends historically, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders
One of the most talked about releases this year came courtesy of IWC in the form of a new Ingenieur that takes the watch back to its Gerald Genta design era of history. You can see our hands-on impressions of that watch right here. The new watches take clear inspiration from the 1970s footprint, but offer a quite contemporary execution that won’t be mistaken for anything throwback. But that’s not all people were discussing at their year’s Watches & Wonders, the IWC booth made one of the biggest impressions of the whole fair, setting a funky ‘70s engineering aesthetic against the new watches, which even included a Mercedes C-111 mkIII concept car right in the booth. During our visit to the booth, we ran into IWC CEO (and Worn & Wound Podcast alum) Chris Grainger, who gave us the scoop on the new watches and the booth itself. This watch was a long time coming, as you might imagine, and Chris takes us through some of the development of the design we see today. Oh, and those crown guards? It seems that we’re the only ones that spent any real time stressing about them. See more of our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023 right here, and head over to our YouTube channel for more of our video content. The post In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends dressy sophistication with all-out sports utility
The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope is now available with a blue dial. The 45mm watch is fully featured with 200m of water resistance. Its style is a great blend between dressy sophistication and all-out sports utility. Junghans first released the Meister S Chronoscope in 2020, and in hindsight it’s hard to believe that it’s taken … ContinuedThe post The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends dressy sophistication with all-out sports utility appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love
Today we enter the world of the Hublot Big Bang, yes that’s right, Hublot one of the most polarising watch brands on the market. They were made famous by the likes of Jay-Z whose lyrics: ”I’m still the man to watch, Hublot on my left hand or not” and his Hublot-centric collection outline his continued … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
SJX W&W; Highlights - Independent Watchmaking
As is often the case when the wider industry is doing well, independent watchmaking is on fire. This was illustrated by the numerous and diverse exhibitors, many of them brand-new entrants, showing their wares alongside Watches & Wonders in Geneva. But as is often the case when independent watchmaking is on fire, quantity far exceeded quality, and the good and great were rare. Not wanting to go up against brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe for eyeballs (and also because most independent marques now enjoy long, long waitlists), many watchmakers didn’t launch anything new. Some talented watchmakers are merely making slow but steady progress, like Yosuke Sekiguchi, the Japanese watchmaker based in Switzerland who presented the final version of his Primevère along with new dial variants for the same. One of the best new launches is not really a new model, but it’s good enough it deserves a top spot on the list. The F.P. Journe FFC is the regular production version of the unique FFC Blue made for charity auction Only Watch in 2021. Indicating the time with a five-fingered hand, the time display is simple but driven by a clever and complex movement, illustrating the brilliance of its creator. Granted it costs CHF820,000 before taxes, which is probably too much even considering the complication. But according to Mr Journe, the movement is complex enough that it can only be assembled and adjusted by a watchmaker who is otherwise working on the Astronomic grand complication....
Time+Tide
Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida
Grand Seiko has attracted a wide base of watch enthusiasts to their products. Previously an underdog trying to break through in regions outside of Japan, there has to be some special quality to the DNA of their watches to garner attention away from usual suspects like Rolex and Omega. Irrefutably the special ingredient in the … ContinuedThe post Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Talking with Niels Eggerding About the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S)
Wei visits Frederique Constant’s manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva to speak to Managing Director of the brand, Niels Eggerding, about the limited edition collaboration that is probably the most revolutionary that we have ever done. The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Future Past (Salmon) celebrates watchmaking’s past with a form factor reminiscent of 1940s chronometers […]
Worn & Wound
The Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Case
Just a few short years ago, Rolex surprised all of us by returning the Explorer to its 36mm roots, after a relatively short stint at 39mm. I discuss that move and the watch itself at length in this review of the ever charming 124270. While many lamented the change, there is certainly no shortage of larger sport watches across the Rolex catalog to choose from. This year, Rolex again returns to the Explorer, adding an entirely new size option to live alongside the 36mm case, offering something for everyone with a new Explorer 40 reference 224270. They’ve managed to fix some of the odd proportion issues that plagued the old 39mm 214270 in the process. The new Rolex Explorer 40 at left, existing 36 at right. The Explorer 40 was was one of many new releases from Rolex this year, and largely fell into quiet territory alongside blockbusters like a new Daytona, a titanium Yacht-Master, an entirely new formal range called Perpetual 1908, and a pair of unusually colorful watches in the OP and Day-Date range. But, for fans of the Explorer missing a larger option, this was a momentous release worth celebrating. This simple, perhaps iconic even, Rolex dial is now more accessible to more wrists than ever, and more options are always a good thing in my book. The Explorer 40 is exactly what it sounds like, a slightly scaled up Explorer with the same dial and case design as the 36. Most importantly, the scale and proportions of the 3, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals, as well as the block hour...
Worn & Wound
A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic
When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...
Revolution
The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Showcases Watchmaking’s Past & Future
Wei and Jeremiah take a closer look at Revolution’s latest collaboration with Frederique Constant, a brand whose mission is to bring luxury to a wider audience. In 2021, Frederique Constant introduced the Slimline Monolithic, a watch that replaced all 26 components of the oscillator and escapement, instead employing a single silicon disc as the regulating […]
Quill & Pad
How Watches Work by John McGonigle of Oileán Watches (Video)
In this presentation that John McGonigle of Oileán Watch gave for Engineers Ireland, he explains how watches work. The video is well worth watching for anyone interested in just what makes a mechanical wristwatch tick.
Revolution
Introducing the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) at Watches & Wonders 2023
At the end of Day 3 at Watches and Wonders 2023, Team Revolution wound up at Frederique Constant’s booth where Wei held a discussion with an esteemed panel of guests about Revolution’s latest limited edition collaboration: The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Future Past (Salmon). This watch is an amalgamation of Frederique Constant’s history-making […]
Worn & Wound
The New Ming 29.01 Worldtimer Starts Another New Chapter
Ming is back with a follow up to their 19.02 Worldtimer, released four years ago. That watch was something of a game-changer for Ming, adding a new complication to the brand’s repertoire, and served as an expansion of their design language. For the new 29.01 Worldtimer, Ming is once again taking a rather large step forward as the brand continues to refine their aesthetic and reimagine what a Ming can be. The concept of the new 29 series, according to Ming, is liquidity. The designs of watches in this new chapter, starting with the Worldtimer, will be defined by smooth, flowing lines, and an organic appearance. That, you might be thinking, kind of describes just about every Ming ever made. But on the 29.01 the brand has taken steps to make the watch appear seamless, as if it’s all of a single piece. The case does not have a bezel, for example, but the crystal is designed to merge directly into the case itself. The dial is quite complex and appears to be made of two pieces: a main sapphire dial and a 24 hour metallic dial with a gradient effect. Both are heavily lumed, the sapphire portion with HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova X1 lume, but they have been executed in such a way as to appear to be merged together. The use of sapphire in the dial itself, the large box crystal, and in the handset contributes to a sense that all of the dial components are floating across different levels, according to the brand. It’s honestly tough to make sense of in the photos, but we ima...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ming 29.01 Worldtimer
The first watch of Ming's new 29 series introduces an evolution of Ming's 19.02 Worldtimer
Worn & Wound
Brew’s Latest Metric, in PVD Black, is Inspired by 1980s Car Culture and the Sportiest Metric Yet
Brew’s Metric chronograph has become one of the biggest watch hits in the microbrand space since its introduction just a few years ago. The cycle of restock to sellout has been basically uninterrupted since the Metric made its debut in the summer of 2021, and the line recently saw an expansion with a gold plated version that rewired our expectations of what this watch can be. Now, just a few months out from that gold Metric, Brew has dropped a version in black PVD directly inspired by brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s love of car culture. All of the Metrics have a solidly vintage infused vibe, but this one is squarely placed in the 80s, and anyone who has spent any amount of time thinking about cars from that decade will immediately understand the connections Brew is making in the design of this watch. The design is overtly sporty, with bright red accents inspired by instrument clusters on 1980s 911s contrasting sharply with the matte black dial and case. The blasted steel pushers and crown dramatically set off the case, and give the watch a tool-like sensibility. But it’s the sleekness of the black coating on the case and bracelet that does the heavy lifting in connecting this watch to 80s sports cars. Something that we’ve always appreciated about the Metric is its fidelity to a style of sports watch that became popular in the 1970s, watches with shaped cases in sizes that by today’s standards would be considered a bit undersized, but in their day would have j...
Time+Tide
The fight against crime: Audemars Piguet offers new guarantee for stolen watches
Boxer Amir Khan lost his bejewelled Franck Mueller. Formula One driver Lando Norris was forcibly relieved of his £400,000 Richard Mille. They were just two of the unfortunate victims of watch theft, the crime trend that has spiralled into an international epidemic. As crooks have become increasingly knowledgeable about the value of luxury watches, a … ContinuedThe post The fight against crime: Audemars Piguet offers new guarantee for stolen watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Adds Five New Non-Limited Ever-Brilliant Steel Options to the Heritage Collection
Grand Seiko had several noisy releases at Watches & Wonders this year, the Tentagraph chief among them. But there was a quiet drop in Geneva this year that might be of even more interest to some Grand Seiko collectors and enthusiasts, and is almost certainly a window into what the brand is planning for the future. Grand Seiko has released a total of five watches in their Heritage Collection that effectively serve as upgrades to existing models in, but are now available in Ever-Brilliant Steel. This marks only the second time the brand has used Ever-Brilliant Steel in non-limited references, following up on last year’s SLGH013, which we covered here. A total of three GMTs and two time and date models have just been introduced in Grand Seiko’s most iconic case shape using the proprietary alloy, and they’re at once totally familiar and offer something new for the most dedicated Grand Seiko collectors. Before we break down the watches, a quick review of the Ever-Brilliant Steel material is in order. Aesthetically, Ever-Brilliant Steel distinguishes itself from standard steel with its bright white color. It’s tough to capture in photos, but in person it has a luster that makes it look and feel like something approaching a precious metal. It’s also significantly more corrosion resistant than standard steel, promoting increased longevity, which Grand Seiko reminds us is a key component of their watchmaking philosophy. The 44GS case, with its wide facets and unique geo...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026
Grand Seiko makes the most of their gorgeous cherry blossom-inspired dial, this time in a rose-gold case The SBGY026 will appeal to the smaller-wristed, measuring in at 38.5mm in diameter and just 43.7mm lug-to-lug A manually wound Spring Drive 9R31 movement keeps the watch slim at just a smidge over 10mm It’s safe to say … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: We Hosted A Meetup With Lucid Motors During Watches & Wonders (And A Lot Of You Came)
Cars and watches, Geneva style.
Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection
Last year’s big release from Vacheron Constantin, the reintroduction of the legendary 222, sparked all kinds of speculation that we’d get another variant of that sports watch at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Maybe one in steel? Or with new complications? As it turns out, we didn’t get a 222 of any kind this year, but VC paid respect to its contemporary integrated bracelet sports watch, a watch whose lineage can be traced back directly to the 222, by adding a complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, a retrograde date display. It’s a first for the Overseas collection, which is itself kind of surprising. It’s one of those watches you can’t quite believe didn’t exist before now, and now that it’s here, it feels that much more well integrated with the rest of the collection. The new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date features the same 41mm steel case profile that the brand has been using since the collection was relaunched in 2016. The Overseas, while pre-dating the hysteria for integrated bracelet sports watches by many years (the line was introduced in 1996) was part of a later group of integrated bracelet watches to really catch fire with collectors in the recent boom, following the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but ahead of watches like the newer Alpine Eagle from Chopard. It has a character that is distinct from its competitors, and is uniquely Vacheron, dominated by a complex notched bezel and less intense case geometry. The Overseas, mo...
Time+Tide
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is the first retrograde display in a sports watch for the brand The watch comes ready for adventure, equipped with a trio of strap options Launching as a boutique exclusive, the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date brings tones down the sportiness of the collection Capitalising on the runaway … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 - the first fully mechanical chronograph movement from GS
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 marks the first-ever fully mechanical chronograph from GS Tentagraph stands for TEN beats per second, Three days, Automatic chronoGRAPH New 9SC5 calibre built upon Grand Seiko’s 9SA5 calibre At last year’s Watches & Wonders, the Grand Seiko “Kodo” SLGT003 Constant Force Tourbillon was irrefutably among the top, if not the top, … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 – the first fully mechanical chronograph movement from GS appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Premiers Minute Rattrapante Within Tonda PF Collection
One of our favorite releases from Watches & Wonders 2022 last year was the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, a watch that presented a unique hidden 2nd hour hand that could be adjusted to a different time zone with a press of a button in the lug. For 2023, Parmigiani returns to this concept in a slightly different manner, with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante. Instead of offering a second 12 hour hand, this latest Tonda brings us a second, independently adjustable minute hand, offering the functionality we’d typically see in a rotating bezel, only, you know, without the bezel. As fun as bezels are to turn, pressing buttons might even be more fun, and this Parmigiani is about as entertaining as they come from a functional point of view. A bit less so in the visual department, but this is still a Tonda through and through. The Minute Rattrapante presents not one, but two buttons in both lugs along the 9 o’clock side of the case. These are used to adjust the second minute hand in 5 minute, and 1 minute increments. If you’ve just plugged your parking meter for 24 minutes, and you need to keep tabs on it, you’d press the button on the bottom four times to place the hand 20 minutes out, and the button at the top 4 times to bring it the full 24 minutes out. That will remain parked at that spot, while the regular minute hand catches up to it, eventually surpassing it to let you know how far you’ve gone over. Exactly the same as rotating the triangle of your ...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep.43: Rolex, Tudor, Oris, and More From Watches & Wonders 2023
It’s time. That’s right, it’s episode 43. The most special number. Why? Well, this A Week in Watches is coming to you from the halls of Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. Since it’s a different venue, and there were a lot of launches, we took a slightly different approach. More, shorter stories, and more hosts! Yep, this episode has Blake Buettner, Zach Kazan, and Zach Weiss. What do we cover? Lots of stuff. Rolex, Tudor, Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, Lange, and Oris, so buckle up. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week in Watches Ep.43: Rolex, Tudor, Oris, and More From Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified
The new BA111OD CHPTR_Δ introduces hypocycloidal time-telling. Olivier Mory, who built the cheapest Swiss-made tourbillon, was involved with the in-house BA111LOD 09310 module. For only US$2,620, it’s an incredible value proposition for a technical Swiss luxury watch. BA111OD have only been around since 2019, but there seems to be no limit to their ambition of … ContinuedThe post The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop
A week has nearly come and gone at Watches and Wonders. In the span of a few days, dozens of brands have released hundreds of new watches. So much has come out that at times it can feel overwhelming (unless you’re following the Worn and Wound team, where they’ve been on top of all the latest news and releases). A week has nearly come and gone at Watches and Wonders. In the span of a few days, dozens of brands have released hundreds of new watches. So much has come out that at times it can feel overwhelming (unless you’re following the Worn and Wound team, where they’ve been on top of all the latest news and releases). The post Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: The 1001-HP Lamborghini Revuelto, Bremont Activates DRS in Updated WR-22 (Spoiler Alert: April Fools!), The Last Overland is Coming to the U.S. & More
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Road & Track New Titanium Road Bike By Mosaic: RT1-ITR Via Mosaic Cycles We love titanium watches (well most of us). And when we see the durable and lightweight material used in other EDC gear and gadgets, we love that too. Mosaic Cycles, known for their titanium bespoke road bikes using modern tubing designs, recently announced the RT1-ITR. This updated version of their flagship RT-1 is re-imagined with a 35mm tire clearance which provides an ideal balance between performance, traction and comfort. Like all Mosaic titanium models, the RT1-ITR uses a double-butted titanium tubing system that can be customized to the rider’s fit requirements, ride-preferences and build configurations. Via Mosaic Cycles That’s just the tech-y information. The Mosaic RT1-ITR is a mean looking thing. The drop bars and thicker tire system add an aggressiveness to the design, while the titanium sheen balanced by the brown tire accents make this entire package on two-wheels everyday eye candy for the owner and for those who happen to see this thing whizzing by. All-Bull: Lamborghini ...
Quill & Pad
The On- And Off-Screen Watches Of Brosnan, Pierce Brosnan - Reprise
Pierce Brosnan’s personal and professional timepieces have included big names like Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Panerai, but also intriguingly Speake-Marin. What influence do the roles he plays have on his personal watch taste? Martin Green provides the answer.
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: the Final Recap
Well folks, it’s been a hectic Watches & Wonders. So hectic, in fact, that we missed the last few days of recaps. But the show has ended (public days start tomorrow, but we head back to the States early in the AM) and we’ve all taken a deep breath and thought about this back half of the week. This isn’t a final summation of our thoughts on the show, but our immediate reactions as it winds down in real time. Thanks for following along with us as we’ve reported from Geneva – we can’t wait to tell you more about what we saw. Zach Kazan The back half of Watches & Wonders has been essentially nonstop for all of us. We took a divide and conquer approach, splitting up to cover the most ground, and as a result will have tons of great watches to tell you about over the coming weeks. For me, the final day of Watches & Wonders was possibly the best single day of the show. Highlight number one: Hublot. This was perhaps my most anticipated meeting, because it unexpectedly turned out to be my favorite meeting of last year. The vibe when the Hublot novelties is presented is so markedly different from every other presentation, it’s hard not to notice. It’s lowkey and genuinely a lot of fun, and the watches, for me, have a Wow Factor that few brands can match. The most noteworthy piece is one I’ll be writing more about soon, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in blue sapphire, with a sapphire bracelet. It’s a technical marvel on a number of levels, and is one of those ...